THE BOY'S STORY OF 

ZEBULON M.PIKE 

EXPLORER OF THE GREAT SOUTHWEST 




EDITED BY 

M.G.HUMPHREYS 



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Published by CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



The Boy's Catlin. My Life Among the Indians, by 
George Catlin. Edited by Mary Gay Hum- 
phreys. Illustrated, izmo .... nrt $1.50 

The Boy's Hakluyt. English Voyages of Adventure 
and Discovery, retold from Hakluyt by Eijwin M. 
Bacon. Illustrated. i2mo . ... net $1.50 

The Boy's Drake. By Edwin M. Bacon. Illus- 
trated. i2mo net $1.50 

Trails of the Pathfinders. By Georce Bird 
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Zebulon M. Pike. Edited by Mary Gay Hum- 
phreys. Illustrated. i2mo . ... net $1.50 



THE BOY'S STORY OF 
ZEBULON M. PIKE 






Copyright, 1911, by 
CHARLES SCRIBNER'S SONS 



Published August, 191 1 




©CI.A293923 



PREFACE 

This story of the explorations of Zebulon M. Pike is based 
upon his diary and reports; the excellent edition of Dr. El- 
liott Coues has been freely conisulted, without, however, 
accepting either his conclusions or inferences. 

Wherever the diary deals merely with the day's routine, this 
has been condensed into connecting paragraphs with explana- 
tory matter. This method has been preferred to footnotes, 
which, owing to Pike's brevity in statement, would otherwise 
have been necessary. 

Also, in order to present a consecutive narrative, anecdotes, 
customs and habits of the peoples which he encountered, in- 
teresting details of the country through which he passed have 
been severed from the appendices, where they were placed by 
the explorer, and added to the diary, wherever, in point of 
time, they belong. 

In reading this modest record of courage, endurance, and 
of duty faithfully performed, the character of Pike as soldier 
and man is unconsciously presented. No more admirable fig- 
ure in the history of this country could be offered to the boys 
of America for emulation and inspiration than that of this 
young soldier, who at the early age of thirty-four at last laid 
down his life for the country he had loved so dearly and served 
so well. In preparing the biographical sketch, the biographies 
by General A. W. Greeley and by General Henry Whiting 
have been consulted. 

Mary Gay Humphreys. 



ILLUSTRATIONS 

Zebulon M. Pike Frontispiece y 

FACING PAGE 

"Some of Them Even Tried Their Dexterity, to 

See How Near the Boat They Could Strike" i8 ^ 

Sioux Village — ^on St. Peter's River 30 U'' 

From a painting by Catlin. 

Curious Grassy Bluffs — St. Peter's River . . 70 i/* 
Sioux Village — on Swan Lake 90 

From a painting by Catlin. 

Falls of St. Anthony — Upper Mississippi . . . no v^ 

From a painting by Catlin. 

Pike's Tent, the Most Elevated Bluff on the 

Mississippi — opposite Prairie du Chien . . 120 ^ 

From a painting by Catlin. 

Indian Village 140 1^ 

From a painting by Catlin. 

Fac-simile of Autograph Letter from General 
Pike to the Hon. Henry Dearborne, Secre- 
tary OF War 180 ^ 

Pike's Peak — from near Manitou Park . . . . 218 *^ 

"Labored All Day, but Made Only One Mile " . . 234 

War-dance of the Apaches » 280 

From a painting by Catlin. 

ix 



X Illustrations 



FACING PAGE 



Apache Archery 296 

From a painting by Catlin. 

"When We Arrived at Chihuahua, We Pursued 
Our Course Through the Town to the House 
OF the General" 308 

Victory of York, U. C. — Death of General Pike . 340 

From a contemporaneous print in the N. Y. Public Library. 

Monument Over the Grave of General Pike at 

Sackett's Harbor, N. Y 368 



MAP 



PACE 



Map of Pike's Explorations 2 

The dotted lines show the routes followed on the several 
expeditions. 



BIOGRAPHICAL SKETCH 

"First: Preserve your honor free from blemish. 

"Second: Be always ready to die for your country." 

These words were found on the blank page of an unfamiliar 
work, "Dodsley's Economy of Human Life," which Pike al- 
ways carried with him. In a memorandum on the same page 
he desired that they be kept before his young son as "he rises 
from youth to manhood." That these maxims were illustrated 
in his own life, and were fulfilled in his death this book will 
show. 

Zebulon Montgomery Pike was born of a race of military 
men, and at a time when the causes that brought about the 
Revolution still kindled the hearts of men. An earlier Cap- 
tain John Pike was a famous Indian fighter. Zebulon Pike, 
his father, was a captain of infantry in the Revolution, and 
again in the levies of 179 1, remaining in the army of the United 
States until 1815, when as lieutenant-colonel he was honorably 
discharged. 

Zebulon Montgomery Pike, was born at Lamberton, New 
Jersey, a suburb of Trenton, January 5, 1779. While a child 
his family removed to Bucks County, Pennsylvania, near the 
Delaware River, and from thence to Easton. Zebulon Pike 
is described as a boy of slender form, very fair, gentle and re- 
tiring in disposition, but of resolute spirit. He had only a com- 
mon-school education. One of his teachers was a Mr. Wall, 
with whom he studied latin and mathematics. But as his 



xii Biographical Sketch 

diary shows, and as his comrades in arms testify, Pike was a 
student in camp and on the trail to the end of his days. 

At fifteen he entered as a cadet, as it was then termed, his 
father's regiment, then stationed in the territory of Indiana, 
and received his first promotion as Ensign, March 3rd, 1799, 
at the age of twenty. He is described by a brother officer at 
Camp Allegheny at this time as about five feet, eight inches tall 
and sturdy and robust for his age. His appearance was mili- 
tary, yet he generally held his head so much on one side that 
when on parade the tip of his chapeau touched his right shoul- 
der. He was agreeable in manner, even polished, but re- 
served in conversation, unless on some topic in which he was 
specially interested. He was a strict disciplinarian, and his 
rapid decision in emergencies frequently forestalled what other- 
wise would have resulted in the more tedious process of a 
court-martial. 

It was during this period that as the troops were transferred 
in flat boats down the Ohio River from Camp Allegheny to Fort 
Massac, at the junction of the Ohio and Mississippi Rivers, 
he obtained a furlough at Cincinnati. Here on what one of 
his brother oflScers termed Pike's "matrimonial expedition" 
he was married to Clarissa Brown, the daughter of General 
John Brown, of Kentucky. To the young couple were given 
three daughters and one son — the latter, to whom the maxims 
were dedicated, died while a child. Only one of the daughters 
lived to womanhood, Clarissa Harlowe Pike, who married 
John Cleve Symmes Harrison, the son of President William 
Henry Harrison. She died still young, but her mother, Mrs. 
Pike, is remembered as a tall, dignified, rather austere woman, 
very accomplished, keeping her diary in French, and always 
wearing a black Canton crape shawl, and a black crape turban. 

It was as first lieutenant of the ist Infantry that Pike was 



Biographical Sketch xiii 

detailed for detached service, and reported to the head-quarters 
of the commanding general at St. Louis, in 1805. This selec- 
tion of a young man of twenty-six, for the exploration of the 
Mississippi River is evidence that his qualities must have at- 
tracted attention. At this time there v^^as no definite knowledge 
of the Louisiana territory, in its northwestern part. President 
Jefferson had asked of Napoleon the city of New Orleans, and 
he had received an empire. The area of the United States by 
the stroke of a pen had been doubled. But instead of spending 
two millions, Jefferson had spent fifteen millions. Having in- 
vested the people's money in this vast territory, it now became 
necessary to find out what sort of bargain he had made with 
Napoleon. Lewis and Clark were sent to the Far West, and a 
second expedition was now organized by the commander-in- 
chief of the army, General Wilkinson, which was to be strictly 
military in purpose and method, and to assert the authority of 
the United States, not only over the unknown Indian tribes 
of that region, but over the adventurous traders of the Hudson 
Bay and Northwest Companies. 

"In the execution of this voyage," he afterward wrote, *T 
had no gentleman to aid me, and I literally performed the duties 
(as far as my limited abilities permitted) of astronomer, sur- 
veyor, commanding officer, clerk, spy, hunter, and guide; fre- 
quently preceding the party for miles, in order to reconnoiter, 
and returning in the evening, to sit down in the open air, by 
firelight to copy the notes, and plot the courses of the day." 
Concerning the details of this expedition and that of the South- 
west the diaries tell their own story, and on these we need not 
dwell. 

When Pike returned from his second expedition he found that 
his relations with General Wilkinson, who had become involved 
in the conspiracy of Aaron Burr, had come unpleasantly before 



xiv Biographical Sketch 

Congress. Hastening to Washington he addressed an im- 
passioned letter to the Secretary of War, asking for a testi- 
monial "which may shut the mouth of Calumny — and strike 
dumb the mouth of Slander." General Dearborn responded 
handsomely, stating that his conduct in both expeditions had 
the approbation of the President; that his services were held in 
high esteem, and that the public should be much indebted for 
the enterprising, persevering, and judicious manner in which 
they had been performed. This view was also taken by the 
Congressional Committee of the Exploration of Western Wa- 
ters, which advised that compensation be made by law to Cap- 
tain Pike and his companions. Inscrutable are the Acts of 
Congress. This was never done, although from time to time 
Pike pleaded for his faithful Baroney and "the poor fellows who 
have become cripples from their limbs being frozen." He 
writes to the Secretary of War : " I who was late their Compan- 
ion in difficulties and dangers, cannot so soon forget our for- 
lorne situation, and the obligations I am under for the prompti- 
tude with which they encountered danger, and fortitude they 
exhibited, and the fidelity and attachment they evinced to their 
military commander and leader through these scenes, as not 
to exert myself to call forth the attention of the Government in 
their favor." 

One year after his return from Mexico, Pike was made 
Major of the 6th Infantry, and occupied himself editing his 
diary and preparing his reports for publication. This done he 
was transferred to the camp at Bellefontaine, at St. Louis, and 
before the year closed was again at Washington. Now he is on 
military duty at Fort McHenry, Maryland, and shortly after 
acting as deputy quartermaster-general at New Orleans. On 
July 6, 1812, he was made colonel of the 15th Infantry, and was 
busy at Washington, " in drilling the compleatest body of Infan- 



Biographical Sketch xv 

try in the U. S.," and begging the Secretary of War to permit 
him to introduce "Modern Discipline in the Corps." He was 
permitted to do as he liked, and the Fifteenth was subjected 
to many innovations and experiments. One was the French 
method of dividing men into three ranks, the third being 
armed with short guns to which were fitted long pikes. This 
enabled the wags of the period to allude to "Pike's regi- 
ment of pikes." 

During his voyage in the Southwest, Pike's premonition that 
active service was not long distant was confirmed during his 
intimacy with the Spanish officers, now restive under the re- 
strictions of the mother country, and prepared for revolt. In 
that event they would seek the Americans as allies. The British 
ships, moreover, were hovering about the mouth of the Mis- 
sissippi, and in the kaleidoscopic changes among nations any- 
thing was likely to happen. In his letters both to his com- 
manding officer and to the Secretary of War, Pike expressed 
his convictions, and urged his knowledge of French and 
Spanish, and of the topography of the country as part of his 
equipment for future service. 

It was to come, but not in the manner he anticipated. Of 
him, at this time. General Whiting says: "Probably no officer 
in the army was held in higher esteem." Pike had never been 
in the presence of the enemy, but his character and his boldness 
and resource, as well as his fitness to direct and to control 
men, had been demonstrated in the West. The complications 
with England, which resulted in the war of 1812, becoming 
acute, the 15th Regiment was sent into camp near Plattsburg, 
during the winter of 1812-13, and Brigr.dier-General Pike, 
as he was then styled, although his rank had not yet been con- 
firmed by Congress, was placed in command of the military 
district of west Lake Chaplain, with 2,500 men. 



xvi Biographical Sketch 

After various futile efforts on our part, a campaign under 
General Henry Dearborn was organized for the capture of the 
British forts on Lake Ontario. The first attack was to be on 
Fort York, as the present city of Toronto was then called. 
Before embarking on Commodore Chauncy's Fleet, Pike wrote 
a military order and a letter, both illustrating his character as 
an officer and a man. After giving his instructions for the con- 
duct of the troops, he adds: 

"Courage and bravery in the field do not more distinguish 
the soldier than humanity after victory; and whatever examples 
the savage allies of our enemies may have given us, the general 
confidently hopes that the blood of an unresisting or yielding 
enemy will never stain the weapons of the soldiers of his column, 

"The unoffending citizens of Canada are many of them our 
own countrymen, and the poor Canadians have been forced into 
the war. Their property must therefore he held sacred, and 
any soldier who shall so far neglect the honor of his profession 
as to be guilty of plundering the inhabitants, shall, if convicted, 
be punished with death." 

To his father the son writes: 

"I embark to-morrow in the fleet at Sackett's Harbor, at 
the head of a column of 1,500 choice troops, on a secret expedi- 
tion. If success attends my steps, honor, and glory await my 
name — if defeat, still shall it be said we died like brave men, 
and conferred honor, even in death, on the American name. 

"Should I be the happy mortal destined to turn the scale 
of war, will you not rejoice, O my father ? May Heaven be 
propitious, and smile on the cause of my country. But if we 
are destined to fall, may my fall be like Wolfe's — to sleep in the 
arms of victory." 

Before Fort York, General Dearborn remained on the Madi- 
son, his flagship, and the command was given to Pike. As the 



Biographical Sketch xvii 

troops were being transferred to the shore, a wind blew them 
below the landing-place, to a point where they were under fire. 

"My God I can stay here no longer," Pike cried to his staff. 
"Come jump into the boat," and the coxswain steered directly 
into the path of the bullets, where Pike joined his command. 
The outer battery was taken by assault, and the guns of the 
main battery being silenced. Pike sat down on a log to question 
a British prisoner, while waiting for the surrender. Instead 
of the white flag the British general, Sheaffe, caused the powder 
magazine to be blown up while his own troops were in retreat. 
Fifty-two Americans were killed and one hundred and eighty 
wounded. A huge stone from the magazine fell on Pike and 
crushed his back. The dying general was carried to a boat 
and taken to the flagship. When the hurrahs of the troops were 
heard, he asked: 

"What does it mean.?" 

"Victory," was the reply. "The Union Jack is coming down 
and the Stars and Stripes are going up." 

His face lighted up with joy. At this moment the captured 
flag was brought on board. He made a sign to place it under 
his head, and his biographer writes: 

"His aspiration was answered, for he turned the scale of 
war; his dream of glory came true, for he fell asleep, like Wolfe, 
in the arms of victory!" and like Wolfe with his head pillowed 
on the flag of his foe. 

The body of Pike was taken to Sackett's Harbor, and buried 
at Fort Tomkins with that of his aid-de-camp, Nicholson, who 
fell at his side. Subsequently it was removed to Madison 
Barracks in Fort Pike, at Sackett's Harbor, where a stone 
seven feet high, topped by an urn, was erected by Colonel 
Hugh Grady and the oflScers of the Fort. Beneath this 
crumbling stone Pike now lies. 



xviii Biographical Sketch 

The death of Pike was on every tongue, and the manner of 
his death sent a cry of horror through the country, and tempered 
the joy of victory. "It was not," says General Whiting, "un- 
til after the capture of Fort George that this explosion ceased 
to haunt, like a dreadful spectre, the American army." That 
explosions were to be the ordinary means of warfare with the 
British was the common belief. Public ceremonies were held 
in church, hall, and theatre. Newspapers vied in eulogy and 
comment. The 15th Regiment held a solemn celebration, at 
Burlington, "in honor of the immortal father of our regiment, 
our beloved Pike," and the 27th of April, the day of his death, 
was set apart in succeeding years, when the flag was to be 
draped and the officers wear crape on their arms. 

The country was soon to mourn another loss — that of 
Lawrence, of the frigate Chesapeake, whose last words "Don't 
give up the ship" is the watchword of the American navy. 
Following this the House of Representatives conferred public 
honors on the two, and ordered that the children of each should 
be regarded as wards of the republic. In every part of the 
country the name of Pike was commemorated and perpet- 
uated. Ten States gave his name to counties. Twenty town- 
ships were christened Pike. Forts, ships, villages, creeks are 
known by his name. Pike's Island, at the mouth of the Min- 
nesota River, is historic, for here the United States first made 
known its intentions with regard to the Indians of the North- 
west. The range of blufi^s opposite Prairie du Chien, which 
he describes in his diary, is known as Pike's Mountain. 
Greatest of all, enduring while the world revolves, is Pike's 
Peak, the lofty sentinel of the Rocky Mountains, discovered 
by him and later named in grateful recollection of his life 
and death. 



THE BOY'S STORY OF 
ZEBULON M. PIKE 




MAP OF PIKE'S EXPLORATIONS 
The dotted lines show the routes followed on the several expeditions 



ZEBULON M. PIKE 

CHAPTER I 

ST. LOUIS TO ST. PAUL 

August 9— September 21, 1805 

[military order of general JAMES WILKINSON] 

"Headquarters, St. Louis, July 30, 1805. 
"Sir: 

"Having completed your equipments, you are to pro- 
ceed up the Mississippi with all possible diligence, tak- 
ing the following instructions for your general govern- 
ment, which are to yield to your discretion in all cases 
of exigency. 

"You will please to take the course of the river, and 
calculate distances by time, noting rivers, creeks, high- 
lands, prairies, islands, rapids, shoals, mines, quarries, 
timber, water, soil, Indian villages and settlements, in 
a diary, to comprehend reflections on the winds and 
weather. 

"It is interesting to government to be informed of 
the population and residence of the several Indian 
nations, of the quantity and species of skins and furs 
they barter per annum, and their relative price to goods; 

3 



Zebulon M. Pike 



of the tracts of country on which they generally make 
their hunts, and the people with whom they trade. 

"You will be pleased to examine strictly for an in- 
termediate point, between this place and the Prairie 
des Chiens, suitable for a mihtary post, and also on 
the Ouiscousing, near its mouth, for a similar estab- 
lishment; and will obtain the consent of the Indians 
for their erection, informing them that they are in- 
tended to increase their trade and ameliorate their 
condition. 

"You will proceed to ascend the main branch of the 
river until you reach the source of it, or the season may 
forbid your further progress without endangering your 
return before the waters are frozen up. 

"You will endeavor to ascertain the latitude of the 
most remarkable places in your route, with the extent 
of the navigation and the direction of the different 
rivers which fall into the Mississippi, and you will not 
fail to procure specimens of whatever you may find 
curious, in the mineral, vegetable, or animal kingdoms, 
to be rendered at this place. 

"In your course you are to spare no pains to con- 
ciliate the Indians and to attach them to the United 
States, and you may invite the great chiefs of such dis- 
tant nations as have not been at this place, to pay me a 
visit. 

"Your own good sense will regulate the consumption 
of your provisions, and direct the distribution of the 
trifling presents which you may carry with you, particu- 
larly your flags. 



St. Louis to St. Paul 



"I wish you a speedy, pleasant and safe tour, and 
am. Sir, with sentiments of respect and esteem, 
"Your obedient servant, 

"James Wilkinson. 

"P. S. — In addition to the preceding orders, you will 
be pleased to obtain from the Indians who claim the 
ground, permissions for the erection of military posts 
and trading houses at the mouth of the river St. Pierre, 
the falls of St. Anthony, and every other critical point 
which falls under your observation; these permissions 
to be granted in formal conferences, and the ground 

marked off. 

J.W. 
"Lieutenant Z. M. Pike, 
"ij-f Regt. Infantry. 

"Sailed from my encampment, near St. Louis, at 
4 P. M., the 9th of August, 1805, with one sergeant, two 
corporals, and seventeen privates, in a keel boat seventy 
feet long, provisioned for four months. Water very 
rapid. Encamped on the east side of the river at the 
head of an island." 

Such is the brief record of the beginning of this im- 
portant work in which Pike responds with the prompt 
obedience of a military man, and transcribes with the 
simphcity of a soldier. The roster of his party just as 
he includes it in his diary may well be given, that their 
descendants may share in the pride of its accomplish- 
ment. "Non-commissioned officers: Sergeant Henry 
Kennerman, Corporal Henry Bradley, Corporal Wil- 



Zebulon M. Pike 



liam E. Meek; Privates: John Boley, Peter Branden, 
John Brown, Jacob Carter, Thomas Dougherty, Wil- 
ham Gorden, Solomon Huddleston, Hugh Menaugh, 
Theodore Miller, John Mountjoy, David Owings, 
Alexander Roy, Patrick Smith, Freegift Stoute, David 
Whelpley." 

St. Louis at this time was the principal French 
trading-post on the Mississippi. The early part of 
his journey was uneventful beyond the weathering 
of storms and encounters with sand-bars, which fre- 
quently obliged the men to get into the water and haul 
the boat over and around these obstructions. On the 
third day the boat reached the Portage des Sioux. 
This was the crossing place of the Sioux between the 
Mississippi and the Ilhnois Rivers, where in the early 
days was an old French settlement. At a cave, just 
beyond, the party camped in order to dry their baggage, 
look after their guns, and "scale their blunderbusses," 
as, in the language of the day, their small cannon were 
called. 

Slowly they made their way among the heavily 
wooded islands of this part of the river until they 
reached the "Riviere du Boeuf,*' or Buffalo River, 
where Pike notes a "beautiful silver cliff*' and four 
islands which he calls the "Four Brothers." This cliff 
is now known as Cap au Gres, and the larger of the 
four islands has been christened "Sarah Ann," its sex 
being changed, while the others are merely numbered. 
A week after setting sail, still struggling with wind and 
weather, they passed several encampments of Indians, 



St. Louis to St. Paul 



and among these a camp of Sioux who were "spearing 
a singular fish, about three feet in length, with a long 
flat snout." This fish is variously known as the paddle- 
fish, spoon-billed duck, and long-billed duck. Hen- 
nepin, who discovered the Illinois River, called it "the 
long-beaked sturgeon"; but while it resembles a stur- 
geon it is without scales, like a catfish. 

The Indians were friendly and advised them about 
the channel. In return. Pike gave them a small quan- 
tity of whiskey; the Indians responding again by an 
offering of fish. Fishing, indeed, was almost the only 
amusement of the soldiers, in the intervals of finding 
their way among the islands. On one day Pike re- 
cords catching nearly fourteen hundred small fish. In 
the meantime he encountered a young man named 
Robedoux, to whom he gave letters for St. Louis, and 
again in the neighborhood of Salt River he met Mr. 
Keteltas, of New York, who gave him a letter to Mr. 
Baker, of "Prarie des Cheins," as Pike, whose spelling 
of French names is phonetic rather than correct, in- 
variably gives it. 

The weather was still intolerable and the men had 
become galled and sore from straining and pulling in 
their wet clothes, but more misfortunes were to come. 
On the morning of August i6th, when they had been 
journeying just a week, the boat got fast on a log which 
had to be sawed off under the water and cost them some 
hours of travel. It was afternoon when they arrived at 
"the houses of a Frenchman situated on the W. side of 
the river opposite Hurricane Island. His cattle ap- 



8 Zebulon M. Pike 

peared to be in fine order, but his corn in a bad state 
of cultivation. About one mile above his house on the 
W. shore is a very handsome hill, v^hich he informed 
me v^as level on the top, w^ith a gradual descent on 
either side, and a fountain of fine water." 

This Frenchman's house was the early beginning of 
what is now Hannibal, Missouri. This classical name 
was given to the settlement by one Anthony Soulard, 
Surveyor-General, who called the neighboring river 
Fabius, after the Roman cunctator, and the Big Bay, 
now Bay St. Charles, he named Scipio. Hurricane 
Island has now disappeared. But near here, at the 
upper end of St. Charles bayou, was later the site of a 
town on paper, called Marion City, which has the 
unhappy distinction of being celebrated in Martin 
Chuzzlewit under the name of "Eden." Following 
Pike's trail in this manner, one discovers the changes 
and vicissitudes of the settlements on the Mississippi, 
now almost lost in the growth and prosperity of the 
great highway. 

For two days the boat made good progress under 
sail, while the men varied their duties by fishing and 
exchanging salutes with passing bateaux and Indians 
until August 19, when the commander writes: 

"Embarked early and made fine way; but at nine 
o'clock, in turning the point of a sand-bar our boat 
struck a sawyer. At the moment we did not know it 
had injured her; but, in a short time after, discovered 
her to be sinking; however, by thrusting oakum into 
the leak and bailing, we got her to shore on a bar, where, 



St. Louis to St. Paul 



after entirely unloading, we with great difficulty keeled 
her sufficiently to cut out the plank and put in a new 
one. This at the time I conceived to be a great mis- 
fortune; but upon examination we discovered that the 
injury resulting from it was greater than we were at 
first induced to beheve; for upon inspection we found 
our provisions and clothing considerably damaged. 
The day was usefully and necessarily employed in 
assorting, sunning, and airing those articles. One of 
my hunters. Sparks, having gone on shore to hunt, 
swam the river about seven miles above and killed a 
deer; but finding we did not come, he returned down 
the river, and joined us by swimming. Whilst we were 
at work at our boat on the sand-beach, three canoes 
with Indians passed on the opposite shore. They 
cried, 'How-do-you-do.?' wishing us to give them an 
invitation to come over; but receiving no answer they 
passed on. We then put our baggage on board and put 
off, designing to go where the young man had killed the 
deer; but after dark we became entangled among the 
sand-bars, and were obliged to stop and encamp on the 
point of a beach. Caught two fish. 

^'Jug. 20th. Arrived at the foot of the rapids De 
Moyen at seven o'clock. Although no soul on board 
had passed them, we commenced ascending them 
immediately. Our boat being large and moderately 
loaded, we found great difficulty. The river all the 
way through is from three-quarters to a mile wide. 
The rapids are 1 1 miles long, with successive ridges 
extending from shore to shore. The first has the 



10 Zebulon M. Pike 

greatest fall and is the most difficult to ascend. The 
channel on the east side is a bad one in passing the first 
two bars; then passes under the edge of the third; 
crosses to the west, and ascends on that side all the 
way to the Sac village. The shoals continued the whole 
distance. We had passed the first and most difficult 
shoal when we were met by Mr. William Ewing, who I 
understand is an agent appointed by the Government 
to reside with the Sacs to teach them the science of agri- 
culture, with a French interpreter, four chiefs and fif- 
teen men of the Sac nation, in their canoes, bearing a 
flag of the United States. They came down to assist me 
up the rapids; took out fourteen of my heaviest barrels, 
and put two of their men in the barge to pilot it up. 
Arrived at the house of Mr. Ewing about dusk. The 
land on both sides of the rapids is hilly, but a rich soil. 
Distance i6 miles." 

Pike had now reached the present limits of the city 
of Keokuk, named after the famous Sac chief, at the 
mouth of the Des Moines River, which Pike elsewhere 
calls Means River. This house was later known as 
Fort Madison, doubtless on the recommendation of the 
explorer, since part of his errand was to select proper 
sites for forts. 

On the next day Pike called all the chief men 
of the village to his camp and held a parley. He told 
them: 

"That their great father, the president of the United 
States, wishing to be more intimately acquainted with 
the situation, wants, &c., of the different nations of 



St. Louis to St. Paul ii 

the red people, in our newly acquired territory of Louis- 
iana, had ordered the general to send a number of his 
young warriors in different directions, to take them by 
dhe hand, and make such inquiries as might afford the 
satisfaction required. 

"That I was authorized to choose situations for their 
trading establishments; and wished them to inform 
me if that place would be considered by them as 
central. 

"That I was sorry to hear of the murder which had 
been committed on the river below; but, in considera- 
tion of their assurances that it was none of their nation, 
and the anxiety exhibited by them on the occasion, I 
had written to the jjeneral and informed him of what 
they had said on the subject. 

"That in their treaty they engaged to apprehend all 
traders who came among them without license; for that 
time, I could not examine their traders on this subject; 
but that, on my return, I would make a particular ex- 
amination. 

"That if they thought proper they might send a 
young man in my boat, to inform the other villages of 
my mission," etc. 

*' I then presented them with some tobacco, knives, 
and whisky. They replied to the following purport: 

"That they thanked me for the good opinion I had 
of their nation, and for what I had written the general. 
That themselves, their young warriors, and the whole 
nation, were glad to see me among them. 

"That as for the situation of the trading-houses, they 



12 Zebulon M. Pike 

could not determine, being but a part of the nation. 
With respect to sending a young man along, that if I 
would wait until to-morrow, they would choose one out. 
And finally, that they thanked me for my tobacco, 
knives, and whisky." 

After writing a letter about this interview to the com- 
mander-in-chief Pike started, and after two days of 
wrestling with sand-bars and twisting among islands 
arrived at what he describes on the west shore as a 
handsome site for a garrison. This was on top of a hill, 
which was level on top. 

"Four hundred yards in the rear there is a small 
prairie of 8 or lo acres, which would be a convenient 
spot for gardens; and on the east side of the river 
there is a beautiful prospect over a large prairie, as 
far as the eye can extend, now and then interrupted 
by groves of trees. Directly under the rock is a lime- 
stone spring, which, after an hour's work, would afford 
water amply sufficient for the consumption of a regi- 
ment. The landing is bold and safe, and at the lower 
part of the hill a road may be made for a team in half 
an hour. Black and white oak timber in abundance. 
The mountain continues about two miles, and has five 
springs bursting from it in that distance," This hand- 
some site for a fort, which is marked on the explorer's 
map, is now the city of Burlington, Iowa. There they 
"met four Indians and two squaws; landed with them; 
gave them one quart of made whisky, a few biscuit, and 
some salt. I requested some venison of them; they 
pretended they could not understand me; but after we 



St. Louis to St. Paul 13 

had left them they held up two hams, and hallooed and 
laughed at us in derision. Passed nine horses on shore 
and saw many signs of Indians. Passed a handsome 
prairie on the east side, and encamped at its head." 
Here they were joined by three boats from "Michil- 
mackinac," and learned that this prairie was half way 
between St. Louis and Prairie du Chien. 

''Aug. 24.th. In the morning passed a number of 
islands. Before dinner Corporal Bradley and myself 
took our guns and went on shore; we got behind the 
savannah, by following the stream we conceived to 
have been a branch of the river, but which led two 
leagues from it. My two favorite dogs having gone 
out with us, gave out on the prairie on account of heat, 
high grass and want of water; but, thinking they would 
come on, we continued our march. We heard the re- 
port of a gun, and supposing it to be from the boat 
answered it: shortly after, however, we passed an Ind- 
ian trail, which appeared as if the persons had been 
hurried, I presume at the report of the guns; for with 
these people all strangers are enemies. Shortly after 
we struck the river, and the boat appeared in view; 
stayed some time for my dogs; two of my men volun- 
teered to go in search of them. Encamped on the west 
shore, nearly opposite a chalk bank. My two men had 
not yet returned, and it was extraordinary, as they 
knew my boat never waited for any person on shore. 
They endeavored to strike the Mississippi ahead of us. 
We fired a blunderbuss three times, to let them know 
where we lay.'* 



14 Zebulon M. Pike 

Firing their cannon every hour as a signal for the 
men, the boat proceeded. Passing the Iowa River, 
the party camped on Grant's prairie, which must be 
understood as the lowlands below Muscatine, Iowa. 
The boat, which had been leaking badly, was mended 
with oakum and tallow, and owing to hard head-winds 
had to be towed by the men. They met two canoes of 
Indians who urged them to land with them, but they 
refused, the men towing until the hills meeting the water 
caused them to stop. Here they again hoped to find 
their missing men. A cold north wind was blowing, 
the thermometer had dropped to ten degrees, but the 
men kept at the ropes until they passed the "Riviere de 
Roche," as Pike calls Rock River. He notes passing 
a pole on which "five dogs were hanging." Four miles 
above the mouth of Rock River he struck the camp of 
Mr. James Aird of Mackinaw, and after breakfasting 
with him they began the ascent of the rapids, losing 
their rudder in the first round. Raising sail in the teeth 
of a hard gale they made a successful ascent of the 
rapids, arriving at a "Reynard village," as Pike always 
alludes to the Fox Indians. Here again he expected to 
find his missing men, who he thought would make a 
short cut across country. The Fox chief told him the 
men could reach Prairie du Chien in four days' march 
and promised to give them moccasins for the journey. 

The boat now set sail again, and Pike intended to 
sail all night, but the wind lulling the party camped on 
an island near the west shore. Pike had now traversed 
the distance from Burlington to the head of the rapids. 



St. Louis to St. Paul 15 

or what is now the town of Le Claire. His next camp 
was at the mouth of the Galena River, "Riviere Le 
Fievre" as it was not inappropriately known to the 
French, and so found by Pike. 

'^ Sunday, Sept. 1st. Embarked early; wind fair; 
arrived at the lead mines at twelve o'clock. A dysen- 
tery, with which I had been afflicted several days was 
suddenly checked this morning, which I believe to have 
been the occasion of a very violent attack of fever about 
eleven o'clock. Notwithstanding it was very severe, I 
dressed myself, with an intention to execute the order 
of the general relative to this place. We were saluted 
with a field-piece and received with every mark of at- 
tention by Monsieur Dubuque, the proprietor. There 
were no horses at the house, and it was six miles to 
where the mines were worked; it was therefore impos- 
sible for me to make a report by actual inspection. I 
therefore proposed ten queries, on the answers to which 
my report was founded. 

"Dined with Mr. D. who informed me that the Sioux 
and the Sauteurs were as warmly engaged in opposition 
as ever; that not long since the former killed 15 Sau- 
teurs, who on the loth of August return, killed 10 Sioux, 
at the entrance of St. Peters; and that a party of Sacs, 
Reynards, and Puants of 200 warriors, had embarked 
on an expedition against the Sauteurs; but they had 
heard that the chief, having had an unfavorable dream, 
persuaded the party to return, and that I would meet 
them on their voyage. At this place I was introduced 
to a chief called Raven, of the Reynards. He made a 



1 6 Zebulon M. Pike 

very flowery speech, which I answered in a few words, 
accompanied by a small present. 

" I had now given up all hopes of my two men, and 
was about to embark when a peroque arrived, in which 
they were, with a Mr. Blondeau, and two Indians whom 
that gentleman had engaged above the rapids of Stony 
river. The two soldiers had been six days without 
anything to eat except muscles when they met Mr. 
James Aird, by whose humanity and attention their 
strength and spirits were in a measure restored; and 
they were enabled to reach the Reynard village, where 
they met Mr. B. The Indian chief furnished them 
with corn and shoes, and showed his friendship by 
every possible attention. I immediately discharged the 
hire of the Indians, and gave Mr. Blondeau a passage 
to the Prairie des Cheins. Left the lead mines at four 
o'clock. Distance 25 miles. 

''Sept. 2d. After making two short reaches, we com- 
menced one which is 30 miles in length; the wind serv- 
ing, we just made it, and encamped on the E. side, 
opposite the mouth of Turkey river. In the course of 
the day we landed to shoot pigeons. The moment a 
gun was fired, some Indians, who were on the shore 
above us, ran down and put off in their peroques with 
great precipitation; upon which Mr. Blondeau in- 
formed me that all the women and children were fright- 
ened at the very name of an American boat, and that 
the men held us in great respect, conceiving us very 
quarrelsome, much for war, and also very brave. This 
information I used as prudence suggested. We stopped 



St. Louis to St. Paul 17 

at an encampment three miles below the town where 
they gave us some excellent plums. They despatched 
a pirogue to the village to give notice, as I suppose, of 
our arrival. It commenced raining about dusk and 
rained all night. Distance 40 miles. 

''Sept. -T^rd. Embarked at a pretty early hour. 
Cloudy. Met two peroques of family Indians; they 
at first asked Mr. Blondeau if we were for war, or if 
going to war ^. I now experienced the good effect of 
having some person on board who could speak their 
language; for they presented me with three pair of 
ducks and a quantity of venison, sufficient for all our 
crew for one day; in return, I made them some trifling 
presents. Afterward met two peroques, carrying some 
of the warriors spoken of on the 2d inst. They kept at a 
great distance, until spoken to by Mr. B., when they in- 
formed him that their party had proceeded up as high 
as Lake Pekin without effecting anything. It is sur- 
prising what a dread the Indians in this quarter have of 
the Americans. I have often seen them go round isl- 
ands to avoid meeting my boat. It appears to me evi- 
dent that the traders have taken great pains to impress 
upon the minds of the savages the idea of our being 
a very vindictive, ferocious, and warlike people. This 
impression was perhaps made with no good intention; 
but when they find that our conduct toward them is 
guided by magnanimity and justice, instead of operat- 
ing in an injurious manner, it will have the effect to 
make them reverence at the same time they fear us." 

Having breakfasted just below the "Ouisconsing" 



1 8 Zebulon M. Pike 

River, as Pike gives us the French name of the Wisconsin 
River in his own spelhng, he reached Prairie du Chien 
at eleven o'clock, where he was entertained by a Cap- 
tain Fisher, and met Mr. Frazer, who subsequently be- 
came his travelling companion. This Mr. Frazer, like 
the Frazer who was with Lewis and Clark, was a Green 
Mountain boy. With these two gentlemen Pike started 
in a " Schenactady boat" to look for a site for a garrison. 
Crossing the river and ascending a hill he notes in his 
diary: "Made choice of a spot which I thought most 
eligible, being level on the top, having a spring in the 
rear, and commanding a view of the country around. 
A shower of rain came on which completely wet us, and 
we returned to the village without having ascended the 
Ouisconsing as we intended. Marked four trees with 
A. B. C. D., and squared the sides of one in the center. 
Wrote to the general." 

Prairie du Chien, which Pike spells with his usual 
indiflFerence, was one of the earliest trading-posts on the 
river. From the maps of the preceding century it ap- 
pears to have been the site of Fort St. Nicolas. In 
1768 it was a town of three hundred families with 
houses built Indian fashion, and a great centre of barter. 
The name is variously attributed to an Indian tribe and 
to some particular Indian. In the writing of the day it 
is spoken of as Dog Plain. The hill of which Pike 
writes is now known as Pike's Mountain. He speaks 
of it elsewhere as well calculated to command the Mis- 
sissippi. His party remained at Prairie du Chien five 
days, the men amusing themselves with jumping and 




'SOME OF THEM EVEN TRIED THEIR DEXTERITY, TO SEE 
HOW NEAR THE BOAT THEY COULD STRIKE." 



St. Louis to St. Paul 19 

hopping contests with the villagers. Having engaged 
two interpreters, Pierre Rosseau and Joseph Reinville, 
and joined by Mr. Frazer, with two new boats, the 
party started for the upper river on September 8. 

"Mr. Frazer is a young gentleman, clerk to Mr. 
Blakely of Montreal; he was born in Vermont, but 
has latterly resided in Montreal, Canada. To the at- 
tention of this gentleman I am much indebted; he pro- 
cured for me everything in his power I stood in need of, 
dispatched his bark canoes, and remained himself to go 
with me. His design was to winter with some of the 
Sioux bands. We sailed well, came 18 miles and en- 
camped on the west bank. 

" I must not fail here to bear testimony to the polite- 
ness of all the principal inhabitants of the village. 
There is, however, a material distinction to be made 
in the nature of those attentions: The kindness of 
Messrs. Fisher, Frazer, and Woods, all Americans, 
seemed to be the spontaneous effusions of good will, 
and partiality to their countrymen; it extended to the 
accommodation, convenience, exercises, and pastimes 
of my men; and whenever they proved superior to the 
French, openly showed their pleasure. But the French 
Canadians appeared attentive rather from their natural 
good manners than sincere friendship; however, it pro- 
duced from them the same effect that natural good will 
did in the others." 

'*Sept. loth. Rain still continuing, we remained in 
camp. Having shot some pigeons, the report was heard 
at the Sioux lodges, the same to whom I spoke on the 



20 Zebulon M. Pike 

6th at the Prairie; when La Feuille sent down six of his 
young men to inform me that he had waited three 
days with meat, etc., but that last night they had began 
to drink, and that on the next day he would receive me 
with his people sober. I returned him for answer that 
the season was advanced, time was pressing, and if the 
rain ceased I must go on. Mr. Frazer and the in- 
terpreter went home with the Indians. We embarked 
about one o'clock. Frazer, returning, informed me that 
the chief acquiesced in my reasons for pressing forward, 
but that he had prepared a pipe to present to me, to 
show to all the Sioux above, with a message to inform 
them that I was a chief of the new father, and that he 
wished me to be treated with friendship and respect. 

"On our arrival opposite the lodges, the men were 
paraded on the bank with their guns in their hands. 
They saluted us with ball, with what might be termed 
three rounds; which I returned with three rounds 
from my blunderbusses. This salute although noth- 
ing to soldiers accustomed to fire, would not be so 
agreeable to many people; as the Indians had all been 
drinking and as some of them even tried their dexter- 
ity, to see how near the boat they could strike. They 
may, indeed, be said to have struck on every side of us. 
When landed, I had my pistols in my belt and sword 
in hand. I was met on the bank by the chief, and in- 
vited to his lodge. As soon as my guards were formed 
and sentinels posted, I accompanied him. Some of 
my men who were going up with me I caused to leave 
their arms behind, as a mark of confidence. At the 



St. Louis to St. Paul 21 

chief's lodge I found a clean mat and pillow for me to 
sit on, and the before-mentioned pipe on a pair of small 
crutches before me. The chief sat on my right hand, 
my interpreter and Mr. Frazer on my left. After smok- 
ing, the chief spoke to the following purport: 

"That, notwithstanding he had seen me at the Prairie 
he was happy to take me by the hand among his own 
people, and there show his young men the respect due 
to their new father. That, when at St. Louis in the 
spring, his father had told him that if he looked down 
the river he would see one of his young warriors coming 
up. He now found it true, and he was happy to see 
me, who knew the Great Spirit was the father of all, 
both the white and the red people; and if one died, the 
other could not live long. That he had never been at 
war with their new father, and hoped always to pre- 
serve the same understanding that now existed. That 
he now presented me with a pipe, to show to the upper 
bands as a token of our good understanding, and that 
they might see his work and imitate his conduct. That 
he had gone to St. Louis on a shameful visit, to carry a 
murderer; but that we had given the man his life, and 
he thanked us for it. That he had provided something 
to eat, but he supposed I could not eat it; and if not, 
to give it to my young men. 

"I replied: That, although I had told him at the 
Prairie my business up the Mississippi, I would again 
relate it to him. I then mentioned the different ob- 
jects I had in view with regard to the savages who had 
fallen under our protection by our late purchase from 



22 Zebulon M. Pike 

the Spaniards; the different posts to be established; 
the objects of these posts as related to them; supplying 
them with necessaries; having officers and agents of 
government near them to attend to their business; and 
above all to endeavor to make peace between the Sioux 
and Sauteurs. That it was possible on my return I 
should bring some of the Sauteurs down with me, and 
take with me some of the Sioux chiefs to St. Louis, 
there to settle the long and bloody war which had existed 
between the two nations. That I accepted his pipe 
with pleasure, as the gift of a great man, the chief of 
four bands, and a brother; that it should be used as 
he desired. I then eat of the dinner he had provided, 
which was very grateful. It was wild rye and venison, 
of which I sent four bowls to my men. 

*'I afterward went to a dance, the performance of 
which was attended with many curious maneuvers. 
Men and women danced indiscriminately. They were 
all dressed in the gayest manner; each had in the hand 
a small skin of some description, and would frequently 
run up, point their skin, and give a puff with their 
breath; when the person blown at, whether man or 
woman, would fall, and appear to be almost lifeless, or 
in great agony; but would recover slowly, rise, and 
join in the dance. This they called their great medi- 
cine; or, as I understood the word, dance of religion, 
the Indians believing that they actually puffed some- 
thing into each others' bodies which occasioned the 
falling, etc. It is not every person who is admitted; 
persons wishing to join them must first make valuable 



St. Louis to St. Paul 23 

presents to the society to the amount of 1^40 or ;^50, 
give a feast, and then be admitted with great ceremony. 
Mr. Frazer informed me that he was once in the lodge 
with some young men who did not belong to the club; 
when one of the dancers came in they immediately threw 
their blankets over him, and forced him out of the lodge; 
he laughed, but the young Indians called him a fool, 
and said he did not know what the dancer might blow 
into his body. 

"I returned to my boat; sent for the chief and pre- 
sented him with two carrots of tobacco, four knives, a 
half pound of vermillion, and one quart of salt. Mr. 
Frazer asked the liberty to present them some rum; 
we made them up a keg between us, of eight gallons — 
two gallons of whiskey, Mr. Frazer informed the chief 
that he did not dare give them any without my per- 
mission. The chief thanked me for all my presents, 
and said they must come free as he did not ask for 
them. 

"I replied that to those who did not ask for any- 
thing I gave freely; but to those who asked for much I 
gave little or none. 

"We embarked about half past three o'clock; came 
three miles; encamped on the W. side. Mr. Frazer we 
left behind, but he came up with his two peroques about 
dusk. It commenced raining very hard. In the night 
a peroque arrived from the lodges of his camp. Dur- 
ing our stay at their camp, there were soldiers appointed 
to keep the crowd from my boats, who executed their 
duty with vigilance and with rigor, driving men, women. 



24 Zebulon M. Pike 

and children back whenever they came near my boats. 
At my departure the soldiers said, as I had shaken 
hands with their chief, they must shake hands with my 
soldiers, in which request I willingly endulged them." 

Still twisting among the islands and pelted by rain 
the expedition proceeded as far as La Crosse, then a 
prairie taking its name from the game of la crosse, 
which since that day still gives its name to the town. 
Mr. Frazer, coming up with his pirogues, or canoes, 
they went over the prairie and inspected "some holes 
dug by the Sioux, when in expectation of an attack, 
into which they first put their women and children, and 
then crawl themselves. They were generally round and 
about 10 feet in diameter; but some were half-moons 
and quite a breastwork. This I understood was the 
chief work, which was the principal redoubt. Their 
modes of constructing them are: the moment they ap- 
prehend or discover an enemy on the prairie, they com- 
mence digging with their knives, tomahawks, and a 
wooden ladle; and in an incredibly short space of time 
they have a hole sufficiently deep to cover themselves 
and their famihes from the balls or arrows of the enemy. 
They have no idea of taking those subterraneous re- 
doubts by storm, as they would probably lose a great 
number of men in the attack; and although they might 
be successful in any event, it would be considered a 
very imprudent action." 

Something should be said of the men who accom- 
panied Pike in this important passage of the river from 
Prairie du Chien to La Crosse and in his diplomatic 



St. Louis to St. Paul 25 

encounter with the Sioux Indians. Rienville, whose 
name Pike misspelled Reinalle, was a French half-breed, 
whose influence with the Indians was so great that in 
the war of 18 12 he was placed in command of the Sioux 
with the rank and pay of captain and distinguished him- 
self both by his gallantry and humanity. Le Feuille, 
reconstructing Pike's spelling, was known to the English 
as Falling Leaf. He was hereditary chief of a band of 
Sioux; a small man wearing a patch over one eye and 
was said to resemble the great Conde. He was held 
in great reverence by his people, and unlike most of 
the Sioux held that the Indians would prosper only as 
they kept at peace with the whites. 

''Sept. i^th. Embarked early; the fog so thick we 
could not distinguish objects 20 yards. When we 
breakfasted we saw nothing of Mr. Frazer's canoes. 
After breakfast, at the head of an island, met Frazer's 
boats. Wind coming on fair, we hoisted sail, and 
found that we were more on an equahty with our sails 
than our oars. The birch canoes sailed very well, but 
we were able to outrow them. Met the remainder of 
the war-party of the Sacs and Reynards before noted, 
returning from their expedition against the Sauteurs. 
I directed my interpreter to ask how many scalps 
they had taken. They replied 'None.' He added 
'for they were all squaws.' For which I reprimanded 
him. Passed the mountain which stands in the river; 
or, as the French say 'which soaks in the river.' Came 
to Prairie Le Aile on the west. Mr. Frazer, Bradley 
and Sparks, and myself went out to hunt. We crossed 



26 Zebulon M. Pike 

first a dry flat prairie; when we arrived at the hills we 
ascended them from which we had a most sublime and 
beautiful prospect. On the right, we saw the moun- 
tains which we passed in the morning and the prairie 
in their rear; like distant clouds, the mountains at the 
Prairie Le Cross; on our left and under our feet, the 
valley between the two barren hills through which the 
Mississippi wound itself by numerous channels, forming 
many beautiful islands, as far as the eye could em- 
brace the scene; and our four boats under full sail, their 
flags streaming before the wind. It was altogether a 
prospect so variegated and romantic that a man may 
scarcely expect to enjoy such a one but twice or thrice 
in the course of his life. I proposed keeping the hills 
until they led to the river, encamping and waiting the 
next day for our boats; but Mr. Frazer's anxiety to 
get to the boats induced me to yield. After crossing a 
very thick bottom, fording and swimming three branches 
of the river, and crossing several morasses, we at twelve 
o'clock arrived opposite our boats, which were en- 
camped on the east side. We were brought over. 
Saw great sign of elk, but had not the good fortune to 
come across any of them. My men saw three on the 
shore. Distance 21 miles." 

Passing the "Riviere Embarass" and L'Eau Claire 
the boats arrived at the Le Boeuf, a river known earlier 
as the " River of Wild Bulls," at whose head-waters the 
Chippewa Indians lived. Here Mr. Frazer broke one 
of his canoes, and failed to overtake the party until it 
had made the ** Grand Encampment" below Lake 



St. Louis to St. Paul 27 

Pepin, so called because, though a natural formation, 
it has the effect of a fortification. 

"Sept. i6th. After supper, the wind being fair, we 
put off with the intention to sail across; my interpreter, 
Rosseau, telling me that he had passed the lake twenty 
times, but never once in the day; giving as a reason 
that the wind frequently rose and detained them by 
day in the lake. But I believe the traders' true reason 
generally is their fears of the Sauteurs, as these have 
made several strokes of war at the mouth of this river, 
never distinguishing between the Sioux and their traders. 
However, the wind serving, I was induced to go on; 
and accordingly we sailed, my boat bringing up the 
rear, for I had put the sail of my big boat on my batteau, 
and a mast of 22 feet. Mr. Frazer embarked on my 
boat. At first the breeze was very gentle, and we sailed 
with our violins and other music playing; but the sky 
afterward became cloudy and cjuite a gale arose. My 
boat plowed the swells, sometimes almost bow under. 
When we came to the Traverse, which is opposite Point 
De Sable, we thought it most advisable, the lake being 
very much disturbed and the gale increasing, to take 
harbor in a bay on the east. One of the canoes and my 
boat came in well together; but, having made a fire on 
the point to give notice to our boats in the rear, they 
both ran on a bar before they doubled it, and were near 
foundering; but by jumping in the lake we brought 
them into safe harbor. Distance 40 miles. 

"Sept. ijth. Although there was every appearance 
of a storm, we embarked at half past six o'clock, the 



28 Zebulon M. Pike 

wind fair; but before we had hoisted sail, those in front 
had struck theirs. The wind came on hard ahead. 
The sky became enflamed, and the Hghtening seemed 
to roll down the sides of the hills which bordered the 
shores of the lake. The storm in all its grandeur, 
majesty, and horror burst upon us in the Traverse while 
making for Point du Sable; and it required no moderate 
exertion to weather the point and get to the windward 
side of it. Distance three miles. 

"There we found Mr. Cameron, who had sailed from 
the prairie on the 5th; he had three bark canoes and a 
wooden one with him. He had been lying here two 
days, his canoes unloaded and turned up for the hab- 
itation of his men, his tents pitched, and himself living 
in all the ease of an Indian trader. He appeared to be 
a man of tolerable information, but rather indolent in 
his habits; a Scotchman by birth, but an Englishman 
by prejudice. He had with him a very handsome 
young man, by the name of John Rudsdell, and also 
his own son, a lad of fifteen. 

"The storm continuing, we remained all day. I was 
shown a point of rocks from which a Sioux maiden 
cast herself, and was dashed into a thousand pieces on 
the rocks below. She had been informed that her 
friends intended matching her to a man she despised; 
having been refused the man she had chosen, she as- 
cended the hill, singing her death-song; and before 
they could overtake her and obviate her purpose she 
took the lover's leap! Thus ended her troubles with 
her life. A wonderful display of sentiment in a savage ! " 



St. Louis to St. Paul 29 

Crossing the lake Pike and Mr. Cameron went up 
the Canoe River, now corrupted into Cannon River, 
where they met a small band of Sioux under the com- 
mand of their second chief. Red Wing, who in our day 
has given his name to the town of Red Wing. He 
made a speech and presented the explorer with a pipe, 
a pouch and a buffalo skin. "He appeared to be a 
man of sense, and promised to accompany me to St. 
Peters river. He saluted me, and had it returned. I 
made him a small present." Thus Pike notes in his 
diary. Dining at the St. Croix River Pike left Mr. 
Cameron and young Frazer, who had business with 
the Indians, and unhappily lost his watch that he had 
loaned to the guard. The two men not having over- 
taken them he "fired a blunderbuss at Tattoo to signal 
them." The traders not having come up, he rested 
at a prairie where there was "a large painted stone," a 
site which we now know was near Red Rock. This 
stone was a fragment of syenite about four and a half 
feet in diameter, known by the Indians as Red Medicine 
Stone, and on which the Indians offer presents to the 
Great Father. Here Pike remained over night, and the 
men not coming up he crossed to a Sioux village on the 
east side of which he writes: 

" It consists of 1 1 lodges, and is situated at the head 
of an island just below a ledge of rocks. The village 
was evacuated at this time, all the Indians having gone 
out to the lands to gather fols avoin. About two miles 
above, saw three bears swimming over the river, but 
at too great a distance for us to have killed them; they 
made the shore before I could come up with them. 



30 Zebulon M. Pike 

Passed a camp of Sioux, of four lodges, in which I saw 
only one man, whose name was Black Soldier. The 
garrulity of the women astonished me, for at the other 
camps they never opened their lips; but here they 
flocked around us with all their tongues going at the 
same time. The cause of this freedom must have 
been the absence of their lords and masters. Passed 
the encampment of Mr. Ferrebault, who had broken his 
peroque and had encamped on the west side of the river, 
about three miles below St. Peters. We made our en- 
campment on the N. E. point of the big island opposite 
St. Peters. Distance 24 miles." 

Pike was now camping on what is to-day Fort Snel- 
ling. Mr. Feribault, to whom he alludes, was a French 
Canadian engaged in trading with the Indians. He 
had married a half-breed and the Indian name of Chah- 
pah-sin-tay, meaning " Beaver Tail," was given to him. 
He attached himself to the American cause during 
the war of 18 12, imperilling both his life and fortune. 
He was always a friend to the red man, encouraging 
him in industry and agriculture, and was of valuable 
service to the United States in arranging treaties with 
the Indians. 

''Sept. 21st. The Mississippi became so narrow to- 
day, that I crossed in my batteaus with forty strokes 
of my oars. The water of the Mississippi since we 
passed Lake Pepin has been remarkably red; and where 
it is deep, appears as black as ink. The waters of 
the St. Croix and St. Peters appear blue and clear, for 
a considerable distance below their confluence. 

"I observed a white flag on shore to-day, and on 



St. Louis to St. Paul 31 

landing, discovered it to be white silk; it was suspended 
over a scaffold, on which were laid four dead bodies, 
two inclosed in boards, and two in bark. They were 
wrapped up in blankets, which appeared to be quite 
new. They were the bodies, I was informed of two 
Sioux women, one of their children, and some other rela- 
tive; two of whom had died at St. Peters and two at 
St. Croix, but were brought here to be deposited on this 
scaffold together. This is the manner of Sioux burial 
when persons die a natural death; but when they 
are killed they suffer them to lie unburied. This cir- 
cumstance brought to my recollection the bones of a 
man I found on the hills below the St. Croix; the 
jaw bone I brought on board. He must have been 
killed on that spot." 



CHAPTER II 

ST. PAUL TO LEECH LAKE 

September 22D, 1805— January 31ST, 1806 

''Sunday, Sept. 22d. Employed in the morning 
measuring the river. About three o'clock Mr. Frazer 
and his peroques arrived; and in three hours after Petit 
Corbeau, at the head of his band, arrived with 150 war- 
riors. 

"They ascended the hill in the point between the 
Mississippi and St. Peters, and gave us a salute, a la 
mode savage, with balls; after which we settled affairs 
for the council next day. Mr. Frazer and myself took 
a bark canoe, and went up to the village, in order to 
see Mr. Cameron. We ascended the St. Peters to the 
village, and found his camp. He engaged to be at 
the council the next day, and promised to let me have 
his barge. The Sioux had marched on a war excursion; 
but, hearing by express of my arrival, they returned by 
land. We were treated very hospitably, and hallooed 
after to go into lodge to eat. Returned to our camp 
about eleven o'clock, and found the Sioux and my 
men peaceably encamped. No current in the river. 

^'■Sept. 2^d. Prepared for the council, which we com- 
menced about twelve o'clock. I had a bower or shade, 

32 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 33 

made of my sails, on the beach, into which only my 
gentlemen (the traders) and the chiefs entered. I then 
addressed them in a speech, which, though long and 
touching on many points, had for its principal object 
the granting of land at this place, falls of St. Anthony, 
and St. Croix, and making peace with the Chipeways. 
I was replied to by Le Fils de Pinchot, Le Petit Cor- 
beau, and I'Original Leve. They gave me the land 
required, about 100,000 acres, equal to ;^200,ooo and 
promised me a safe passport for myself and any chiefs 
I might bring down; but spoke doubtfully with respect 
to the peace. I gave them presents to the amount of 
about ;^200, and as soon as the council was over I 
allowed the traders to present them with some liquors, 
which I myself gave, equal to 60 gallons. In one-half 
hour they were all embarked for their respective vil- 
lages. 

"The chiefs in Council were: Le Petit Corbeau; 
who signed the grant; Le Fils de Pinchot, who also 
signed; Le Grand Partisan; L'Original Leve, war 
chief; gave him my father's tomahawk; Le Demi 
Douzen, war chief; Le Becasse; Le Boeuf qui Marche. 

"It was somewhat difficult to get them to sign the 
grant, as they conceived their word of honor should be 
taken for the grant without any mark; but I convinced 
them it was not on their account, but my own that I 
wished them to sign it." 

The influence of the French in this part of the coun- 
try may be noted in the fact that Pike does not use the 
Indian names of these chiefs. Little Crow was one of 



34 Zebulon M. Pike 

the greatest chiefs of the Sioux, and twenty-six years 
later was the spokesman of his tribe at the second 
council held at Fort Snelling, Le Fils de Pinchot was 
the chief of the Lake tribes. The name signifies "what 
is he afraid of" and was given to his father. L'Original 
Leve must be translated Standing Moose. This Ind- 
ian refused to join the war party against the American 
in 1812, and went into the service of General Clark 
at St. Louis. He was known in Minnesota as "Toma- 
haw," and with his one eye and stove pipe hat was a 
well known character about St. Paul. A daguerrotype 
of him is in the possession of the Minnesota Historical 
Society. Le Becasse, a corruption of bras casse, or 
broken arm, was a Sac chief. The whiskey that Pike 
bestowed on these Indians was what was known at the 
time as "made" whiskey — that is to say two gallons of 
water to one of whiskey; these were the proportions 
usually observed in dealing with the Indians. 

"Sept. 2^th. In the morning I discovered that my 
flag was missing from my boat. Being in doubt whether 
it had been stolen by the Indians, or had fallen over- 
board and had floated away, I sent for my friend. Orig- 
inal Leve, and sufficiently evinced to him, by the vehem- 
ence of my action, by the immediate punishment of 
my guard (having afl3icted on one of them corporal 
punishment) and by sending down the shore three miles 
in search of it, how much displeased I was that such a 
thing should have occurred. I sent a flag and two 
carrots of tobacco by Mr. Cameron to the Sioux at the 
head of the St. Peters; made a small draft of the posi- 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 35 

tion at this place; sent up the boat I got from Mr. 
Fisher to the village on the St. Peters, and exchanged 
her for a barge with Mr. Duncan. My men returned 
with the barge about sundown. She was a fine light 
thing; eight men were able to carry her. Employed 
all day in writing. 

''Sept. 2^th. I was awakened out of my bed by Le 
Petit Corbeau to see if we were all killed, or if any acci- 
dent had happened to us. This was in consequence 
of having found my flag floating three miles below their 
village, 15 miles hence, from which they concluded some 
affray had taken place, and that it had been thrown 
overboard. Although I considered this an unfortunate 
accident for me, I was exceedingly happy at its effect; 
for it was the occasion of preventing much bloodshed 
among the savages. A chief called Outard Blanche 
had his lip cut off^, and had come to Petit Corbeau and 
told him, that his face was his looking-glass, that it 
was spoiled, and that he was determined on revenge. 
The parties were charging their guns and preparing for 
action, when lo! the flag appeared like a messenger 
of peace sent to prevent their bloody purposes. They 
were all astonished to see it. The staflF was broken. 
Then Petit Corbeau arose and spoke to this efi^ect: 
That a thing so sacred had not been taken from my 
boat without violence; that it would be proper for them 
to hush all private animosities, until they had revenged 
the cause of their eldest brother; that he would im- 
mediately go up to St. Peters, to know what dogs had 
done that thing, in order to take steps to get satisfac- 



36 Zebulon M. Pike 

tion of those who had done the mischief. They all 
hstened to this reasoning; he immediately had the flag 
put out to dry, and embarked for my camp. I was 
much concerned to hear of the blood likely to have been 
shed, and gave him five yards of calico, one handker- 
chief, one carrot of tobacco, and one knife, in order to 
make peace among his people. He promised to send 
my flag by land to the falls, and make peace with 
Outard Blanche. Mr. Frazer went up to the village. 
We embarked late, and encamped at the foot of the 
rapids. In many places I could scarce throw a stone 
over the river. Distance three miles. 

"Sept. 26th. Embarked at the usual hour, and after 
much labor in passing through the rapids, arrived at 
the foot of the falls about three or four o'clock; un- 
loaded my boat, and had the principal part of the cargo 
carried over the portage with the other boat; however, 
full loaded, they were not able to get over the last 
shoot; and encamped about 600 yards below. I 
pitched my tent and encamped above the shoot. The 
rapids mentioned in this day's march might be called a 
continuation of the falls of St. Anthony, for they are 
equally entitled to the appellation with the falls of the 
Delaware and Susquehanna. Killed one deer. Dis- 
tance nine miles. 

'^Sept. 2jth. Brought over the residue of my lading 
this morning. Two men arrived from Mr. Frazer's on 
St. Peters, for my despatches. This business of closing 
and sealing appeared like a last adieu to the civilized 
world. Sent a large packet to the general, and a letter 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 37 

to Mrs. Pike, with a short note to Mr. Frazer, The 
young Indians brought my flag across by land; they 
arrived yesterday just as we came in sight of the falls. I 
made them a present for their punctuality and expedi- 
tion, and the danger they were exposed to from the 
journey. Carried our boats out of the river as far as the 
bottom of the hill. 

^'Sept. 28/A. Brought my barge over, and put her in 
the river above the falls. While we were engaged with 
her, three quarters of a mile from camp, seven Indians 
painted black appeared on the heights. We had left 
our guns in camp, and were entirely defenceless. It 
occurred to me that they were a small party of Sioux, 
who were obstinate, and who would go to war when 
the other bands came in. These they proved to be 
They were better armed than any I had seen, having 
guns, bows, arrows, clubs, spears, and some of them 
even a case of pistols. I was at that time giving my 
men a dram, and giving the cup of liquor to the first 
he drank it off; but I was more cautious with the re- 
mainder. I sent my interpreter to camp with them to 
wait my coming, wishing to purchase one of their war 
clubs, which was made of elk horn and decorated with 
inlaid work. This and a set of bows and arrows I 
wished to get as a curiosity. But the liquor I had 
given him beginning to operate, he came back for me; 
refusing to go until I brought my boat, he returned 
(and I suppose being offended) borrowed a canoe and 
crossed the river. In the afternoon we got the other 
boat to the top of the hill, when the props gave way, 



38 Zebulon M. Pike 

and she slid all the way to the bottom, but fortunately 
without injuring any person. It raining very hard, we 
left her. Killed one goose and a raccoon. 

'' Sunday y 2gth. I killed a remarkably large raccoon. 
Got our large boat over the portage, and put her in the 
river at the upper landing. This night the men gave 
sufficient proof of their fatigue, by all throwing them- 
selves down to sleep, preferring rest to supper. This 
day I had but 15 men out of 22; the others were sick. 

"This voyage could have been performed with great 
convenience if we had taken our departure in June. 
But the proper time would be to leave the Illinois as 
soon as the ice would permit, when the river would be of 
a good height. 

*^Sept. T^oth. Loaded my boat, moved over and en- 
camped on the island. The large boats loading like- 
wise, we went over and put on board. In the mean- 
time I took a survey of the Falls, Portage, etc. If it be 
possible to pass the falls at high water, of which I am 
doubtful, it must be on the east side, about 30 yards 
from shore, as there are three layers of rocks one below 
the other. The pitch oflF each is not more than five 
feet; but of this I can say more on my return. (It is 
never possible, as ascertained on my return.)" 

The treaty just executed ceded to the Government 
nine miles square, including the Falls of St. Anthony. 
A blank space was left for payment. This was subse- 
quently filled in by an act of Congress authorizing the 
payment of ^2000 for the tract. In the letter written 
by Pike to General Wilkinson, which he alludes to as 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 39 

his farewell to civilization, he states that he gave to the 
two chiefs at the time $250 in goods and promised that 
an army post should be maintained at the junction of 
the St. Croix and the Mississippi Rivers, and the Sioux 
defended against the Chippewas should they again take 
up the hatchet. In this letter he also commends to the 
commanding general, the interpreter, Reinville, and 
young Mr. Frazer, of whom he writes: "Although 
not possessing the advantages of a polished education, 
inherits that without which an education serves but to 
add to frivolity of character — candor, bravery, and that 
amor p atria which distinguishes the good of every nation, 
from Nova Zembla to the line." 

Immediately after he says in less exalted language: 
"Finding that the traders were playing the devil 
with their rum, I yesterday in council informed the 
Indians that their father had prohibited the selling of 
liquor to them, and that they would oblige him and 
serve themselves if they would prevent their young men 
from paying the credits of any trader who sold rum to 
them, at the same time charging the chiefs to treat 
them well; as their father, although good, would not 
again forgive them, but punish with severity any in- 
juries committed on their traders. This, I presume, 
General, is agreeable to the spirit of the laws. Mr- 
Frazer immediately set the example, by separating his 
spirits from the merchandise in his boats, and returning 
it to the Prairie, although it would materially injure 
him if the other traders retained and sold theirs. In 
fact, unless there are some persons at our posts here. 



40 Zebulon M. Pike 

when established, who have authority effectually to 
stop the evil by confiscating the liquors, etc., it will still 
be continued by the weak and malevolent.'* 

The business of getting his barges over the portage 
proved a serious matter. Pike himself worked with 
blistered hands until on the morning of the 27th when 
the last load was carried over. 

The weather was now very cold, the Mercury at 
zero. The river was shallow and Pike encountered now 
islands and now rapids so that, "navigation to persons 
not determined to proceed would have been impractica- 
ble." In order to get the boats over the shoals and 
rapids the men were obliged to wade almost all day tow- 
ing them. This work was varied only by shooting 
geese and swans for food. Pike notes also shooting 
an unknown animal called a "brelaw," but which we 
know as the badger. They were soon to encounter 
numerous elks and an abundance of small game. Ob- 
serving a "red capot" hung on a tree, which the in- 
terpreter said was a sacrifice by the Indian to the "bon 
dieu," he determined to lie by and hunt for a day. All 
about them were the evidences of the warfare between 
the Sioux and Chippewas, whom Pike calls Sauteurs, for 
by this name, taken from the Sault Sainte Marie on the 
Superior from whence the tribe came, they were called 
by the French. Being on dangerous ground, and likely 
to be taken for Sioux traders, the Commander divided 
his men less able to do the hard work of towing, into 
two "flankers on both sides of the river, both as look- 
outs and as hunters." 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 41 

"Oct. ^th. Rained in the morning; but the wind 
serving, we embarked, although it was extremely raw 
and cold. Opposite the mouth of Crow river we found 
a bark canoe cut to pieces with tomahawks, and the 
paddles broken on shore; a short distance higher up 
we saw five more, and continued to see the wrecks until 
we found eight. From the form of the canoes my inter- 
preter pronounced them to be Sioux; and some broken 
arrows to be the Sauteurs. The paddles were also 
marked with the Indian sign of men and women killed. 
From all these circumstances we drew this inference, 
that the canoes had been the vessels of a party of Sioux 
who had been attacked and all killed or taken by the 
Sauteurs. Time may develop this transaction. My in- 
terpreter was much alarmed, assuring me that it was 
probable that at our first rencounter with the Chip- 
eways they would take us for Sioux traders, and fire on 
us before we could come to an explanation; that they 
had murdered three Frenchmen whom they found on 
the shore about this time last spring; but notwithstand- 
ing his information, I was on shore all the afternoon in 
pursuit of elk. Caught a curious little animal on the 
prairie, which my Frenchman termed a prairie mole, 
but it is very different from the mole of the States. 
Killed two geese, one pheasant, and a wolf." 

Pike had now reached what we know as Clear Water 
Here he found numerous islands occupied by beavers, 
whose dams and roadways excited his wonder and ad- 
miration. The river was becoming so impassable by 
reason of shoals, rapids, rocks, and islands that it was 



42 Zebulon M. Pike 

necessary to find some "wintering ground," where he 
might leave his boats and take to canoes for the rest 
of his journey. He had now arrived at timbered land 
where he could find material for his canoes, and bears 
and porcupines were added to the abundant game 
which engaged his hunters. 

''Oct. nth. Both boats passed the worst of the 
rapids by eleven o'clock, but we were obliged to wade 
and lift them over rocks where there was not a foot of 
water, when at times the next step would be in water 
over our heads. In consequence of this our boats were 
frequently in imminent danger of being bilged on the 
rocks. About five miles above the rapids our large 
boat was discovered to leak so fast as to render it neces- 
sary to unload her, which we did. Stopped the leak 
and reloaded. Near a war-encampment I found a 
painted buckskin and a piece of scarlet cloth, suspended 
by the limb of a tree; this I supposed to be a sacrifice 
to Matcho Manitou, to render their enterprise success- 
ful; but I took the liberty of invading the rights of his 
diaboHcal majesty, by treating them as the priests of 
old have often done — that is, converting the sacrifice 
to my own use. Killed only two ducks. Distance 8 
miles. 

''Oct. i6th. When we arose in the morning found 
that snow had fallen during the night; the ground was 
covered, and it continued to snow. This indeed was but 
poor encouragement for attacking the rapids, in which 
we were certain to wade to our necks. I was deter- 
mined, however, if possible, to make la riviere de Cor- 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 43 

beau, the highest point ever made by traders in their 
bark canoes. We embarked, and after four hours' 
work became so benumbed with cold that our limbs 
were perfectly useless. We put to shore on the oppo- 
site side of the river, about two-thirds of the way up 
the rapids. Built a large fire; and then discovered that 
our boats were nearly half-full of water, both having 
sprung such large leaks as to oblige me to keep three 
hands bailing. My Sergeant Kennerman, one of the 
stoutest men I ever knew, broke a blood-vessel and 
vomited nearly two quarts of blood. One of my cor- 
porals, Bradley, also evacuated nearly a pint of blood. 
These unhappy circumstances, in addition to the in- 
ability of four other men, whom we were obliged to 
leave on shore, convinced me that if I had no regard 
for my own health and constitution, I should have some 
for those poor fellows, who were killing themselves to 
obey my orders. After we had breakfasted and re- 
freshed ourselves, we went down to our boats on the 
rocks, where I was obliged to leave them. I then in- 
formed my men that we would return to the camp, and 
there leave some of the party and our large boats. This 
information was pleasing, and the attempt to reach the 
camp soon accomplished. 

"My reasons for this step have partly been already 
stated. The necessity of unloading and refitting my 
boats, the beauty and convenience of the spot for 
building huts, the fine pine trees for peroques, and 
the quantity of game, were additional inducements. 
We immediately unloaded our boats and secured their 



44 Zebulon M. Pike 

cargoes. In the evening I went out upon a small but 
beautiful creek which empties into the falls for the 
purpose of selecting pine trees to make canoes. Saw 
five deer, and killed one buck weighing 137 pounds. 
By my leaving men at this place, and from the great 
quantities of game in this vicinity, I was insured plenty 
of provision for my return voyage. In the party left 
behind was one hunter, to be continually employed, 
who would keep our stock of salt provisions good. 
Distance 233 miles above the falls of St. Anthony. 

"Cut 60 logs for huts and worked at the canoes," 
Pike writes later on. "This considering we had only 
two felling axes and three hatchets was pretty good 
work." These labors on his part were varied by pro- 
viding for all contingencies in case he should never re- 
turn. His instructions to Sergeant Kennerman, who 
was to be left in charge of the little post he was con- 
structing disclose Pike's careful and judicious attention 
to detail. 

"Pine Creek Rapids, Oct. ist. 1805. 
"You are to remain here with the party under your 
command, subject to the following instructions: Your 
guards to consist of one non-commissioned officer and 
three privates, yourself mounting in regular rotation, 
making one sentinel by day and by night; until your 
position is inclosed by pickets, every man is to be em- 
ployed on that object; after which Sparks is to be em- 
ployed in hunting; but this will by no means excuse 
him from his tour of guard at night when in the stock- 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 45 

ade, but he must be reHeved during the day by another 
man. 

" Should any Indians visit you previous to having your 
works complete, divide your men between the two 
blockhouses, and on no conditions suffer a savage to 
enter the one where the stores are, and not more than 
one or two into the other; but should you be so fortunate 
as not to be discovered until your works are completed, 
you may admit three, without arms, and no more, to 
enter at once, at the same time always treating them 
with as much friendship as is consistent with your own 
safety. 

"You are furnished with some tobacco to present 
them with, but on no condition are you ever to give them 
one drop of liquor; inform them that I have taken it 
all with me. From the arrangements I have made 
with the Sioux it is presumable they will treat you with 
friendship; but the Chipeways may be disposed to 
hostilities, and, should you be attacked, calculate on 
surrendering only with your life. Instruct your men 
not to fire at random, nor ever, unless the enemy is near 
enough to make him a point-blank shot. This you 
must particularly attend to, and punish the first man 
found acting in contradiction thereto. The greatest 
economy must be used with the ammunition and pro- 
visions. Of the latter I shall furnish Sparks with his 
proportion; and at any time should a man accompany 
him for a day's hunt, furnish him with four or five balls 
and extra powder, and on his return take away what 
is left from him. The provisions must be issued agree- 



46 Zebulon M. Pike 

ably to the following proportion: For four days 80 
lbs. of fresh venison, elk, or buffalo, or 60 lbs. fresh 
bear meat with one quart of salt for that period. The 
remainder of what is killed keep frozen in the open air 
as long as possible, or salt and smoke it so as to lay up 
meat for my party and us all to descend the river with. 
If you are obliged, through failure of your hunter, to 
issue out of our reserved provisions, you will deliver 
for four days, 18 lbs. of bacon or pork, and 18 lbs. of 
flour only. This will be sufficient and must in no in- 
stance be exceeded. No whiskey will be issued after 
the present barrel is exhausted, at half a gill per man 
per day. 

"Our boats are turned up at your gate. You will 
make a barrel of pitch, and give them a complete re- 
pairing to be ready for us to descend in. 

"I have delivered to you my journals and observa- 
tions to this place, with a letter accompanying them to 
his Excellency, General James Wilkinson, which should 
I not return by the time hereafter specified, you will con- 
vey to him and deliver personally, requesting him to 
deliver the others committed to your charge. 

"You will observe the greatest discipline and justice 
in your command. I expect the men will conduct them- 
selves in such manner that there will be no complaints 
on my return, and that they will be ready to account 
to a higher tribunal. The date of my return is uncer- 
tain; but let no information or reports except from 
under my own hands, induce you to quit this place until 
one month after the ice has broken up at the head of the 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 47 

river; when, if I am not arrived, it w^ill be reasonable 
to suppose that some disastrous events detain us, and 
you may repair to St. Louis. You are taught to dis- 
criminate betv^een my baggage and the United States 
property. The latter deliver to the assistant military 
agent at St. Louis, taking his receipts for the same; the 
former, if in your pov^er, to Mrs. Pike. 

"Your party is regularly supplied v^ith provisions, to 
include the 8th of December only, from which time you 
are entitled to draw on the United States. 

"Z. M. Pike, Ur 

Two block-houses were built and two canoes. Pike 
and his men were now ready to continue their journey 
up the river, when one of the canoes loaded with pro- 
visions and ammunition was sunk through a flaw in the 
wood, which he speaks of as "wind-shake." One mis- 
fortune followed another. In drying the cartridges he 
saved only five dozen out of thirty, and in drying the 
powder it exploded and almost blew up the tent and 
several of the men. He determined to lay over and 
build another and larger canoe, and meanwhile place the 
little garrison in a state of defence. Rewrites: "Had 
it not been for various political reasons, I would have 
laughed at the attack of 800 or 1,000 savages if my 
party were within. For, except accidents, it would have 
only afforded amusement, the Indians having no idea of 
taking a place by storm." 

Here follows the record of an interesting mental ex- 
perience : 



48 Zebulon M. Pike 

"Found myself powerfully attacked with the fantas- 
tics of the brain called ennui, at the mention of which 
I had hitherto scoffed; but my books being packed up, 
I was like a person entranced, and could easily conceive 
why so many persons who had been confined to remote 
places acquired the habit of drinking to excess and 
many other vicious practices, which have been adopted 
merely to pass time. 

''Nov. id. Left the camp with the fullest deter- 
mination to kill an elk, if it were possible, before my 
return. I never had killed one of those animals. Took 
Miller, whose obliging disposition made him agreeable 
in the woods. I was determined, if we came on the 
trail of elk, to follow them a day or two in order to kill 
one. This, to a person acquainted with the nature of 
those animals, and the extent of the prairies in this 
country, would appear, what it really was, a very fool- 
ish resolution. We soon struck where a herd of 150 
had passed. Pursued and came in sight about eight 
o'clock, when they appeared, at a distance, like an 
army of Indians moving along in single file; a large 
buck, of at least four feet between the horns, leading 
the van, and one of equal magnitude bringing up the 
rear. We followed until near night, without once being 
able to get within pointblank shot. I once made Miller 
fire at them with his musket, at about 400 yards' dis- 
tance; it had no other effect than to make them leave 
us about five miles behind on the prairie. Passed 
several deer in the course of the day, which I think we 
could have killed, but did not fire for fear of alarming 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 49 

the elk. Finding that it was no easy matter to kill 
one, I shot a doe through the body, as I perceived by her 
blood where she lay down in the snow; yet, not know- 
ing how to track, we lost her. Shortly after saw three 
elk by themselves near a copse of woods. Approached 
near them and broke the shoulder of one; but he ran 
off with the other two just as I was about to follow. 
Saw a buck deer lying on the grass; shot him between 
the eyes, when he fell over. I walked up to him, put 
my foot on his horns, and examined the shot; imme- 
diately after which he snorted, bounced up, and fell 
five steps from me. This I considered his last effort; 
but soon after, to our utter astonishment, he jumped 
up and ran off. He stopped frequently; we pursued 
him, expecting him to fall every minute; by which we 
were led from the pursuit of the wounded elk. After 
being wearied out in this unsuccessful chase we returned 
in pursuit of the wounded elk, and when we came up to 
the party, found him missing from the flock. Shot 
another in the body; but my ball being small, he like- 
wise escaped. Wounded another deer; when, hungry, 
cold, and fatigued, after having wounded three deer 
and two elk, we were obliged to encamp in a point 
of hemlock woods, on the head of Clear river. The 
large herd of elk lay about one mile from us, in the 
prairie. Our want of success I ascribe to the smallness 
of our balls, and to our inexperience in following the 
track after wounding the game, for it is very seldom a 
deer drops on the spot you shoot it. 

^^ Sunday J Nov. 3^. Rose pretty early and went in 



50 Zebulon M. Pike 

pursuit of the elk. Wounded one buck deer on the 
way. We made an attempt to drive them into the 
woods; but their leader broke past us, and it appeared 
as if the drove would have followed him, though they 
had been obliged to run over us. We fired at them 
passing, but without effect. Pursued them through 
the swamp till about ten o'clock, when I determined 
to attempt to make the river, and for that purpose took 
a due south course. Passed many droves of elk and 
buffalo, but being in the middle of an immense prairie, 
knew it was folly to attempt to shoot them. Wounded 
several deer, but got none. In fact, I knew I could 
shoot as many deer as anybody; but neither myself 
nor my company could find one in ten, whereas one 
experienced hunter could get all. Near night struck a 
lake about five miles long and two miles wide. Saw 
immense droves of elk on both banks. About sundown 
saw a herd crossing the prairie towards us. We sat 
down. Two bucks more curious than the others, 
came pretty close. I struck one behind the fore shoul- 
der; he did not go more than 20 yards, before he fell 
and died. This was the cause of much exultation, 
because it fulfilled my determination; and, as we had 
been two days and nights without victuals, it was very 
acceptable. Found some scrub oak. In about one 
mile we made a fire, and with much labor and pains 
got our meat to it; the wolves feasting on one half of 
it while we were carrying away the other. We were 
now provisioned, but we were in want of water, the 
snow being melted. Finding the drought very ex- 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 51 

cessive in the night, I went in search of water, and was 
much surprised, after having gone about a mile to 
strike the Mississippi. Filled my hat and returned to 
my companion. 

*'Nov. \th. Repaired my mockinsons, using a piece 
of elk's bone as an awl. We both went to the Missis- 
sippi and found we were a great distance from the camp. 
I left Miller to guard the meat and marched for camp. 
Having strained my ankles in the swamp, they were 
extremely sore, and the strings of my mockinsons made 
them swell considerably. Before I had gone far I dis- 
covered a herd of 10 elk, approached behind them and 
shot one through; he fell, rose again and ran oJBF. I 
pursued him at least five miles, expecting every moment 
to see him drop. I then gave him up. When I arrived 
at Clear River a deer was standing on the other bank. 
I killed him on the spot, and when I was taking out 
the entrails another came up. I shot him also. This 
was my last ball and then only could I kill. Left part 
of my clothes at this place to scare the wolves. Arrived 
at the camp at dark to the great joy of the men who had 
been to our little garrison to inquire for me, and re- 
ceiving no intelligence, had concluded I was killed by 
the Indians, having heard them fire on the opposite 
bank. The same night we saw fires on the opposite 
shore in the prairie; this was likewise seen in the fort 
and the men moved within the works." 

Game being so plentiful the men persuaded Pike to 
continue the hunting. Miller and Sparks set out to 
follow a herd of buffalo and deer down the river in a 



52 Zebulon M. Pike 

canoe. The snow now began falling and the river 
filling with ice. The men not returning Pike went in 
search of them, but found no trace. They were now 
among the hostile Chippewas and liable to be mistaken 
for traders, with whom the Indians were at enmity, be- 
fore they had a chance of explaining to the Indians who 
they were and what they represented. The snow was 
now knee deep, and wood for their fires found only 
with difficulty. 

" Nov.^th. My men not yet arrived. I determined 
to depart for the garrison, and when the river had 
frozen, to come down on the ice with a party, or, 
if the weather became mild, by water, with my other 
peroques, to search for my poor men. Put up about 
ten pounds of meat, two blankets, and a bearskin, with 
my sword and gun, which made for me a very heavy 
load. Left the meat in as good a situation as possible, 
wrote on the snow my wishes, and put my handker- 
chief up as a flag. Departed. My anxiety of mind 
was so great that, notwithstanding my load and the 
depth of the snow, I made into the bottom, above our 
former hunting-camp, a little before night. Passed 
several deer and one elk, which I might probably have 
killed; but not knowing whether I should be able to 
secure the meat if I killed them, and bearing in mind 
that they were created for the use and not the sport of 
man, I did not fire at them. While I was endeavor- 
ing to strike fire I heard voices, and looking round, 
observed Corporal Meek and three men passing. 
Called them to me, and we embarked together. They 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 53 

were on their march down to see if they could render 
us any assistance in ascending the river. They were 
much grieved to hear my report of the other men, Cor- 
poral Bradley, Sparks, and Miller. 

"Nov. gth. Snowed a Httle. The men carried my 
pack. I was so sore that it was with difficulty I carried 
my gun; fortunately they brought with them a pair 
of mockinsons, sent me by one of my soldiers, Owings, 
who had rightly calculated that I was bare-foot; also a 
phial of whisky, sent by the sergeant; were both very 
acceptable to me. They brought also some tobacco for 
my lost men. We experienced difficulty in crossing the 
river, owing to the ice. Moved into the post my com- 
mand, who were again encamped out, ready to march 
up the river. Set all hands to making sleds, in order 
that the moment the river closed I might descend, with 
a strong party, in search of my lost men. Issued pro- 
visions, and was obliged to use six venison hams, being 
part of a quantity of elegant hams I had preserved to 
take down, if possible, to the general and some other 
friends. Had the two hunters not been found, I must 
have become a slave to hunting in order to support my 
party." 

Not only a slavish but precarious life Pike found it, 
for on one day he might secure 600 pounds of meat, 
and again for three days not succeed in killing a bird. 
Miller and Sparks at length arrived, having been lost 
on the prairie, and not able to find a deer. Hunting 
camps were now set up in the woods, the men depend- 
ing on their kill for food. In these the men suffered 



54 Zebulon M. Pike 

greatly from the cold which froze their toes, from terrific 
storms and from lack of food. Pike determined to re- 
turn to the stockade, and fortunately fell in with some 
deer, and discovering signs of buffalo, gave chase. 
They pursued them until night and succeeded only in 
wounding one. 

''Nov. 2^th. Commenced again the pursuit of the 
buffalo, and continued till eleven o'clock, when I gave up 
the chase. Arrived at the camp about sundown, hungry 
and weary, having eaten nothing since we left it. My 
rifle carried too small a ball to kill buffalo; the balls 
should not be more than 30 to the pound — an ounce ball 
would be still preferable — and the animal should be 
hunted on horse-back. I think that in the prairies of 
this country the bow and arrow could be used to more 
advantage than the gun; for you might ride immedi- 
ately alongside, and strike them where you pleased, 
leaving them to proceed after others. Thawing. 

"Nov. 2ph. Took one man and marched to the 
post. Found all well. My hunter, Bradley, had killed 
II deer since my departure. Sent all the men down 
to help the party up. They returned, accompanied by 
two Indians, who informed me they were two men of a 
band who resided on Lake Superior, called the Fols 
Avoins, but spoke the language of the Chipeways. 
They informed me that Mr. Dickson's and the other 
trading-houses were established about 60 miles below, 
and that there were 70 lodges of Sioux on the Missis- 
sippi. All my men arrived at the post. We brought 
from our camp below the balance of 17 deer and 2 elk. 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 55 

"Nov. zSth. The Indians departed, much pleased 
with their reception. I dispatched Corporal Meek and 
one private down to Dickson with a letter, which would 
at least have the effect of attaching the most powerful 
tribes in this quarter to my interest. 

*^Nov. igth. A Sioux, the son of a warrior called the 
Killeur Rouge, of the Gens des Feuilles, and a Fols 
Avoin, came to the post. He said that having struck our 
trail below and finding some shoe tracks, he conceived 
it to be the establishment of some traders, took it and 
came to the post. He informed me that Mr. Dickson 
told the Sioux that they might now hunt where they 
pleased, as I had gone ahead and would cause the 
Chipeways, wherever I met them to treat them with 
friendship; that I had barred the mouth of the St. 
Peters, so that no liquor should ascend the river; but 
that if they came to the Mississippi they could have 
all they wanted; also that I was on the river and had 
a great deal of merchandise to give them as presents. 
This information of Mr. Dickson to the Indians seemed 
to have self-interest and envy for its motives; for, by 
the idea of my having prevented liquor from going up 
the St. Peters he gave the Indians to understand that it 
was a regulation of my own and not a law of the United 
States; by assuring them that he would sell to them 
on the Mississippi, he drew all the Indians from the 
traders on the St. Peters, who had adhered to the re- 
strictions of not selling liquor; and should any of them 
be killed the blame would all lie on me, as he had without 
authority assured them they might hunt in security. I 



56 Zebulon M. Pike 

took care to give the young chief a full explanation of 
my ideas on this subject. He remained all night. 

Killed two deer." 

Mr. Robert Dickson was an Englishman who had 
estabhshed a trading-house among the Sioux as early as 
1790. Later in the war of 18 12 he was instrumental in 
organizing the Indian tribes against the United States. 
At the same time we are indebted to him for restrain- 
ing their barbarities toward their prisoners, and our 
women and children. 

Sparks coming up the river made known to his leader 
that Dickson was on the way to the post with a young 
Indian, a "Fols Avoin," a Menominee, for, as "Folle 
Avoin" this tribe was known by the French, by reason 
of the wild rice which grew so abundantly in the swampy 
prairies, and made a large part of their food. 

''Dec. ■^rd. Mr. Dickson with an engagee, and a 
young Indian, arrived at the fort. I received him with 
every poHteness in my power, and after a serious con- 
versation with him on the subject of the information 
given me on the 29th ult., was induced to beheve it in 
part incorrect. He assured me that no liquor was sold 
by him, or by any houses under his direction. He 
gave me much useful information relative to my future 
route, which gave me great encouragement as to the 
certainty of my accomplishing the object of my voyage 
to the fullest extent. He seemed to be a gentleman of 
general commercial knowledge, possessing much geo- 
graphical information of the western country, and of 
open, frank manners. He gave me many assurances 



St. Paul to Leech Lake ^j 

of his good wishes for the prosperity of my under- 
taking. 

"Dec. ^th. Mr. Dickson, with his two men, departed 
for their station, after having furnished me with a letter 
for a young man of his house on Lake de Sable, and carte 
blanche as to my commands on him. Weather mild. 

"Dec. 6th. I dispatched my men down to bring up 
the other peroque with a strong sled on which it was 
intended to put the canoe about one-third, and to let 
the end drag on the ice. Three families of the Fols 
Avoins arrived and encamped near the fort; also, one 
Sioux, who pretended to have been sent to me from 
the Gens des Feuilles, to inform me that the Yanctongs 
and Sussitongs, two bands of Sioux from the head of 
the St. Peters and the Missouri, and the most savage 
of them, had commenced the war-dance and would de- 
part in a few days; in which case he conceived it would 
be advisable for the Fols Avoins to keep close under 
my protection; that making a stroke on the Chipeways 
would tend to injure the grand object of my voyage, etc. 
Some reasons induced me to believe he was a self-created 
envoy; however, I offered to pay him, or any young 
Sioux, who would go to those bands and carr}^ my 
word. He promised to make known my wishes upon 
his return. My men returned in the evening without 
my canoe, having been so unfortunate as to split her in 
carrying her over the rough hilly ice in the ripples below. 
So many disappointments almost wearied out my pa- 
tience; notwithstanding, I intended to embark by land 
and water in a few days. 



58 Zebulon M. Pike 

"Dec. Jth. An Indian by the name of Chien Blanche, 
of the Fols Avoin tribe, with his family and connections, 
arrived and encamped near the stockade. He informed 
me that he had wintered here for ten years past; that 
the sugar-camp near the stockade was where he made 
sugar. He appeared to be an intelligent man. I vis- 
ited his camp in the afternoon, and found him seated 
amidst his children and grandchildren, amounting 
in all to ten. His wife, although of an advanced age, 
was suckling two children that appeared to be about 
two years old. I should have taken them to be twins, 
had not one been much fairer than the other. Upon 
inquiry, however, I found that the fairest was the 
daughter of an Englishman, by one of the Indian's 
daughters, lately deceased; since whose death the 
grandmother had taken it to the breast. His lodge was 
made of rushes plaited into mats, after the manner of 
the Illinois. I was obliged to give some meat to all the 
Indians who arrived at the stockade, at the same time 
explaining our situation. The Chien Blanche assured 
me it should be repaid with interest in the course of 
the winter, but that at that time he was without any- 
thing to eat. In fact, our hunters having killed noth- 
ing for several days, we were ourselves on short allow- 
ance. 

"Dec. Sth. An invalid Sioux arrived with the infor- 
mation that the bands of the Sussitongs and Yanctongs 
had actually determined to make war on the Chipeways, 
and that they had formed a party of 150 or 160 men; 
but that part of the Sussitongs had refused to go to war. 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 59 

and would be here on a visit to me the next day. This 
occasioned me to delay crossing the river immediately, 
on my voyage to Lake Lang Sue, as it was possible that 
by having a conference with them I might still prevent 
the stroke intended to be made against the Chipeways. 

''Dec. gth. Prepared to embark. Expecting the 
Sioux I had two large kettles of soup made for them. 
Had a shooting match for four prizes. The Sioux did 
not arrive and we ate the soup ourselves. Crossed the 
river and encamped above the rapids. Wind changed 
and it grew cold." 

With sleds such as farmers use holding two barrels 
and two men geared abreast, and with two men towing 
the canoe through the ice and over the rapids of the 
river, the party started. The snow having melted in 
spots the work of the men was very severe, and what 
seemed more hazardous, game on which they depended 
for food became scarce. Pike in advance reached Little 
Elk rapid at ten o'clock at night, made a fire and waited 
for his men. Tired out they camped until the next 
afternoon when they heard firing which kept up until 
dark, and which they thought to be from the warlike 
Chippewas, and so felt obliged to keep a strict lookout. 

"Dec. I2th. The snow having almost entirely left 
the prairie, we were obliged to take on but one sled at a 
time and treble man it. In the morning my inter- 
preter came to me with quite a martial air, and re- 
quested that he might be allowed to go ahead to discover 
what Indians we heard fire last evening. I gave him 
permission and away he went. Shortly after, I went 



6o Zebulon M. Pike 

out with Corporal Bradley and a private, and in about 
an hour overtook my partizan, on a bottom close to the 
river; he was hunting raccoons, and had caught five. 
We left him; and after choosing an encampment and 
sending the private back to conduct the party to it, the 
corporal and myself marched on, anxious to discover 
the Indians. We ascended the river about eight miles; 
saw no Indians, but discovered that the river was frozen 
over. This pleased me more, for we would now be 
enabled to walk three times our usual distance in a 
day. 

"I was much surprised that we saw no Indians. After 
our return to camp I was told that a Fols Avoin Indian 
had met my party and informed them that in the rear of 
the hills that bordered the prairie there were many 
small lakes which by portages communicated with Lake 
Superior; that in one day's march on that course we 
would find English trading-houses; that the Chipeways 
were there hunting; that the Sioux who had visited my 
camp on the 29th ult., on hearing the firing, had pru- 
dently returned with his companions to the west side 
of the Mississippi, agreeably to my advice. How 
persons unacquainted with the searching spirit of trade 
and the enterprise of the people of the northwest would 
be surprised to find people who had penetrated from 
Lake Superior to lakes little more than marshes! It 
likewise points out the difficulty of putting a barrier on 
their trade. 

"All my sleds and peroques did not get up until half- 
past ten o'clock. Saw a very beautiful fox, with red 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 6i 

back, white tail and breast. My interpreter called 
them reynard d'argent. I had no opportunity of shoot- 
ing him. Killed six raccoons and one porcupine." 

A heavy storm now overtook them and a succession 
of troubles. The sled holding Pike's baggage and am- 
munition fell into the river and obliged all the men to 
jump into the icy water up to their middles recovering 
the things. The clothes and books were found soaked, 
and a more important loss was that of all his cartridges 
and four pounds of "double battle Sussex powder" 
which the commander had brought for his own use. 
Happily the kegs of powder and some bottles of pow- 
der escaped, and but for this fortunate circumstance, 
the party would have had to return, for they could not 
subsist without ammunition. Fortunately two Menom- 
inee Indians, one of whom they had seen at the post, 
came up each with a deer, and relieved their present 
need. Pike was now obliged to remain in camp and 
build a couple of sleds, and meanwhile was successful 
in overtaking a buffalo, and Bradley and the interpre- 
ter Rousseau killed a deer. Having more meat than 
they needed Pike had a cache made by digging a hole 
four feet deep and three feet wide and six feet long 
into which they put a barrel of pork, and a barrel of 
flour each wrapped in deerskins to keep them dry. 
When the hole was covered with dirt they built their 
fire above and made it further secure. 

After four days of hard marching the party reached 
the Riviere de Corbeau, as Pike calls Crow Wing River, 
which was the principal means of communication be- 



62 Zebulon M. Pike 

tween the Mississippi and the Red River of the North. 
Here Pike writes: 

*^Dec. 23^. Never did I undergo more fatigue, per- 
forming the duties of hunter, spy, guide, commanding 
officer, etc., sometimes in front, sometimes in the rear, 
frequently in advance of my party 10 or 15 miles. At 
night I was scarcely able to make my notes intelligible. 
Killed two raccoons. From our sleds breaking down, 
and having to make so many portages on the road, 
made but four miles." 

Troubles did not cease. Travelling now on the 
prairie and now on the frozen river he notes: "Broke 
four sleds, broke into the river four times, and had four 
carrying places since we left." For a week they made 
slow progress through this dreary lake region, Pike 
having ceased to follow the course of the Mississippi 
River. 

"Dec. ^ist. Passed Pine river about eleven o'clock. 
At its mouth there was a Chipeway's encampment of 
15 lodges; this had been occupied in the summer, but 
was now vacant. By the significations of their marks 
we understood that they had marched a party of 50 
warriors against the Sioux, and had killed four men 
and four women, which were represented by images 
carved out of pine or cedar. The four men were painted 
and put in the ground to the middle, leaving above 
ground those parts which are generally concealed; 
by their sides were four painted poles, sharpened at the 
end to represent the women. Near this were poles with 
deerskins, plumes, silk handkerchiefs, etc.; also, a 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 63 

circular hoop of cedar with something attached, repre- 
senting a scalp. Near each lodge they had holes dug in 
the ground, and boughs ready to cover them, as a re- 
treat for their women and children if attacked by the 
Sioux. 

"Wednesday, Jan. 1st, 1806. Passed on the bank 
of the river six very elegant bark canoes, which had been 
laid up by the Chipeways; also, a camp which we 
conceived to have been evacuated about ten days. My 
interpreter came after me in a great hurry, conjuring 
me not to go so far ahead, and assured me that the 
Chipeways, encountering me without an interpreter, 
party, or flag, would certainly kill me. Notwithstand- 
ing this I went on several miles further than usual, in 
order to make any discoveries that were to be made; 
conceiving the savages not so barbarous or ferocious as 
to fire on two men (I had one with me) who were ap- 
parently coming into their country, trusting to their 
generosity; and knowing that if we met only two or 
three we were equal to them, I having my gun and pis- 
tols and he his buck-shot. Made some extra presents 
for New Year's Day. 

"Jan. 2d. Fine warm day. Discovered fresh sign 
of Indians. Just as we were encamping at night, my 
sentinel informed me that some Indians were coming 
full speed upon our trail or track. I ordered my men 
to stand by their guns carefully. They were immedi- 
ately at my camp, and saluted the flag by a discharge of 
three pieces, when four Chipeways, one Englishman, 
and a Frenchman of the N. W. Company, presented 



64 Zebulon M. Pike 

themselves. They informed us that some women, hav- 
ing discovered our trail, gave the alarm, and not know- 
ing but it was their enemies, they had departed to make 
a discovery. They had heard of us and revered our 
flag. Mr. Grant, the Englishman, had only arrived 
the day before from Lake De Sable from which he had 
marched in one day and a half. I presented the In- 
dians with half a deer, which they received thankfully, 
for they had discovered our fires some days ago, and 
believing it to be the Sioux, they dared not leave their 
camp. They returned, but Mr. Grant remained all 
night. 

''Jan. 3^. My party marched early, but I returned 
with Mr. Grant to his establishment on [Lower] Red 
Cedar Lake, having one corporal with me. When we 
came in sight of his house I observed the flag of Great 
Britain flying. I felt indignant, and cannot say what 
my feelings would have excited me to do, had he not 
informed me that it belonged to the Indians. This 
was not much more agreeable to me. After explaining 
to a Chipeway warrior called Curly Head the object of 
my voyage, and receiving his answ^er that he would 
remain tranquil, we ate a good breakfast for the coun- 
try, departed, and overtook my sleds just at dusk. 
Killed one porcupine. Distance 16 miles." 

Curly Head, the Chippewa warrior, belonged to a 
family that for many years ruled over the Chippewa 
tribes. It was written of him: "He was a father to his 
people; they looked on him as children do to a parent; 
and his lightest wish was immediately performed. His 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 65 

lodge was ever full of meat, to which the hungry and 
destitute were ever welcome. The traders vied with one 
another who should treat him best, and the presents 
he received were always distributed to his people with- 
out reserve." 

"Jan. ^th. We made 28 points in the river; broad, 
good bottom, and of the usual timber. In the night I 
was awakened by the cry of the sentinel, calling re- 
peatedly to the men; at length he vociferated, 'G — d 
d — n your souls, will you let the lieutenant be burned 
to death V This immediately aroused me. At first I 
seized my arms, but looking round I saw my tent in 
flames. The men flew to my assistance and we tore 
them down, but not until they were entirely ruined. 
This, with the loss of my leggins, mockinsons, and 
socks which I had hung up to dry, was no trivial mis- 
fortune, in such a country and on such a voyage. But 
I had reason to thank God that the powder, three small 
casks, which I had in my tent, did not take fire; if it 
had I must certainly have lost my life. 

" Sunday y Jan. ^th. Mr. Grant promised to over- 
take me yesterday, but has not arrived. I conceived it 
would be necessary to attend his motions with careful 
observation. Distance 27 miles. 

''Jan. 6th. Bradley and myself walked up 31 points, 
in hopes to discover Lake De Sable, but finding a near 
cut of 20 yards for 10 miles, and being fearful the sleds 
would miss it, we returned 23 points before we found 
our camp. They had made only eight points. Met 
two Frenchmen of the N. W. Company with about 



66 Zebulon M. Pike 



1 80 pounds on each of their backs, with rackets on; 
they informed me that Mr. Grant had gone on with the 
Frenchman. Snow fell all day and was three feet 
deep. Spent a miserable night. 

"Jan. yth. Made but 11 miles, and then were 
obliged to send ahead and make fires every three miles; 
notwithstanding which the cold was so intense that 
some of the men had their noses, others their fingers, 
and others their toes frozen, before they felt the cold 
sensibly. 

''Jan. Sth. Conceiving I was no great distance from 
Sandy Lake, I left my sleds, and with Corporal Bradley 
took my departure for that place, intending to send 
him back the same evening. We walked on very 
briskly until near night, when we met a young Indian, 
one of those who had visited my camp near Red Cedar 
Lake. I endeavored to explain to him that it was my 
wish to go to Lake De Sable that evening. He returned 
with me until we came to a trail that led across the 
woods; this he signified was a near course. I went 
this course with him, and shortly afterward found my- 
self at a Chippewa encampment, to which I believe the 
friendly savage had enticed me with the belief I would 
tarry all night, knowing that it was too late for us to 
make the lake in good season. But upon our refusing 
to stay, he put us in the right road. We arrived at the 
place where the track left the Mississippi, at dusk, 
when we traversed about two leagues of a wilderness, 
without any very great difficulty, and at length struck 
the shore of Lake De Sable, over a branch of which 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 67 

our course lay. The snow having covered the trail made 
by the Frenchmen who had passed before with the 
rackets, I was fearful of losing ourselves on the lake; 
the consequence of which can only be conceived by 
those who have been exposed on a lake, or naked plain, 
a dreary night of January, in latitude 47° and the ther- 
mometer below zero. Thinking that we could observe 
the bank of the other shore, we kept a straight course, 
some time after discovered lights, and on our arrival 
were not a little surprised to find a large stockade. The 
gate being open, we entered, and proceeded to the 
quarters of Mr. Grant, where we were treated with the 
utmost hospitality. 

''Jan. gth. Marched the corporal early, in order 
that our men should receive assurances of our safety 
and success. He carried with him a small keg of spirits, 
a present from Mr. Grant. The establishment of this 
place was formed 12 years since by the N. W. Company, 
and was formerly under the charge of a Mr. Charles 
Brusky. It has attained at present such regularity as 
to permit the superintendent to live tolerably comfort- 
able. They have horses procured from Red river of 
the Indians; raise plenty of Irish potatoes; catch pike, 
suckers, pickerel, and white fish in abundance. They 
also have beaver, deer, and moose; but the provision 
they chiefly depend on is wild oats, of which they pur- 
chase great quantities from the Indians, giving at the 
rate of about 1^1.50 per bushel. But flour, pork, and 
salt are almost interdicted except to traders. Flour 
sells at 50 cts.; salt, $1, pork, 80 cts., sugar, 50 cts.; 



68 Zebulon M. Pike 

coffee and tea, ^4.50 per pound. The sugar is obtained 
from the Indians, and is made from the maple tree." 

Marching on snow shoes Mr. Grant now led the party 
back to the Mississippi, "in order to mark the place for 
my boats to leave the river." Pike writes: "It was 
a march full of difficulty. Mr. Grant himself fell into 
the river with his snow-shoes and was extricated with dif- 
ficulty, and a tree fell on one of the men and hurt him 
badly." At length the party reached the trading-house 
of the North Western Company on Sandy Lake a little 
before dark, where everybody was made comfortable, 
the men receiving a "fille," the term for dram in that 
part of the country. Meanwhile Pike and Mr. Grant 
made a tour of the lake, and the men sawed timber 
for sleds, that were to be built like those in use in that 
part of the country. These, which Pike calls traineaux 
de glace, were made of a single plank, turned up at one 
end like a fiddle head, on which the baggage is lashed 
in bags and sacks. The Indians who had never met 
any Americans were much interested in the party, be- 
lieving that owing to our victories over the English 
and French the Americans were "white Indians." All 
hands were now busy making ready to return to Leech 
Lake, Pike in writing his letters and arranging the 
baggage, and the men in getting ready the sleds. Pike, 
however, takes time to note that at the post he had 
** roasted beavers, dressed in every respect as pig is 
usually dressed with us, and boiled moose's head 
which he considers as good as beaver's tail; both be- 
ing excellent." 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 69 

On January 20th the party started, travelHng across 
country in a snow-storm, intending to follow up the 
Willow River. But learning from Mr. Grant, who had 
overtaken them that the water had risen over the ice. 
Pike sent back to the post all unnecessary articles, in- 
cluding, however, his ink and the salt, and resumed his 
march. Mr. Grant went with them for three days, 
nothing delaying them but the fact of the leader hang- 
ing his thermometer on a tree and having to send back 
one of his men for it. Pike also notes that Boley having 
lost the ** Sioux pipe-stem, which I carried along to 
make peace with the Chipeways I sent him back for it." 
Mr. Grant had now left him and the Indian guide he 
had engaged had arrived. Having abandoned the 
Willow River course. Pike made a detour toward the 
Northwest and was soon to strike the Mississippi again 
at what is now Grand Rapids. 

" Sunday y Jan. 26th. I left my party in order to 
proceed to a house or lodge of Mr, Grant's on the Mis- 
sissippi [opposite Grand Rapids], where he was to tarry 
until I overtook him. Took with me my Indian, Boley, 
and some trifling provision; the Indian and myself 
marched so fast that we left Boley on the route about 
eight miles from the lodge. Met Mr. Grant's men on 
their return to Lake De Sable, they having evacuated 
the house this morning, and Mr. Grant having marched 
for Leech Lake. The Indian and I arrived before sun- 
down. Passed the night very uncomfortably, having 
nothing to eat, not much wood, nor any blankets. The 
Indian slept sound. I cursed his insensibility, being 



70 Zebulon M. Pike 

obliged to content myself over a few coals all night. 
Boley did not arrive. In the night the Indian men- 
tioned something about his son, etc. 

'^ Monday y Jan. ijth. My Indian rose early, men- 
ded his mockinsons, then expressed by signs something 
about his son and the Frenchman we met yesterday. 
Conceiving that he wished to send some message to 
his family, I suffered him to depart. After his depart- 
ure I felt the curse of solitude, although he truly was no 
company. Boley arrived about ten o'clock. He said 
that he had followed us until some time in the night; 
when, believing that he could not overtake us, he 
stopped and made a fire; but having no ax to cut 
wood, he was near freezing. He met the Indians, who 
made him signs to go on. I spent the day in putting 
my gun in order, mending my mockinsons, etc. Pro- 
vided plenty of wood; still found it cold, with but one 
blanket. 

"I can only account for the gentlemen of the N. W. 
Company contenting themselves in this wilderness for 
10, 15, and some of them for 20 years, by the attach- 
ment they contract for the Indian women. It appears 
to me that the wealth of nations would not induce me to 
remain secluded from the society of civilized mankind, 
surrounded by a savage and unproductive wilderness, 
without books or other sources of intellectual enjoy- 
ment, or being blessed with the cultivated and feeling 
mind of a civilized fair. 

"Tuesday, Jan. iSth. My party joined Boley and 
myself at Grant's house to-day. 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 71 

''Wednesday^ Jan. igth. Took Miller and proceeded 
ahead of my party; reached Pakagama Falls about 
one o'clock; proceeded to three deserted Chipeway 
lodges; found a fine parcel of firewood split; cut down 
three sap pines and wove the branches into one of the 
lodges to protect ourselves from the storm; had a tol- 
erable night. 

" Thursday^ Jan. ^oth. Miller and myself left our 
encampment at a good hour; unable to find any trail 
passed through one of the most dismal swamps I ever 
saw, and struck the Mississippi at a small lake. Ob- 
served Mr. Grant's tracks going through it; found his 
mark of a cut-off, agreed on between us; took it, pro- 
ceeded very well until we came to a small lake where 
the trail was entirely hid. But after some search on 
the other side, found it; when we passed through a dis- 
mal swamp, on the other side of which we found a large 
lake at which I was entirely at a loss; no trail was to 
be seen. Struck a point about three miles where we 
found a Chipeway lodge of one man, his wife, and five 
children, and one old woman. They received us with 
every mark that distinguished their barbarity such as 
setting their dogs on ours, trying to thrust their hands 
into our pockets, &c. But we convinced them that we 
were not afraid, and let them know we were Chewock- 
omen, (Yankees), when they used us more civilly. 

"After we had arranged a camp as well as possible, I 
went into the lodge; they presented me with a plate 
of dried meat. I ordered Miller to bring about two 
gills of liquor, which made us all good friends. The 



72 Zebulon M. Pike 

old squaw gave me more meat, and offered me tobacco 
which, not using, I did not take. I gave her an order 
upon my corporal for one knife and half a carrot of 
tobacco. Heaven clothes the lilies and feeds the ravens, 
and the same almighty Providence protects and pre- 
serves these creatures. After I had gone out to my lire, 
the old man came out and proposed to trade beaver- 
skins for whisky; meeting with a refusal, he left me; 
when presently the old woman came out with a beaver- 
skin; she also being refused, he returned to the charge 
with a quantity of dried meat, which, or any other, I 
should have been glad to have had. I gave him a per- 
emptory refusal; then all further application ceased. 
It really appeared that with one quart of whisky I 
might have bought all they possessed. Night remark- 
ably cold; was obliged to sit up nearly the whole of it. 
Suffered much with cold and from want of sleep. 

''Friday, Jan. 3IJ/. Took my clothes into the Ind- 
ian's lodge to dress, and was received very coolly; 
but by giving him a dram unasked, and his wife a little 
salt, I received from them directions for my route. 
Passed the lake or morass, and opened on meadows 
through which the Mississippi winds its course of nearly 
15 miles long. Took a straight course through them 
to the head, when I found we had missed the river; 
made a turn of about two miles and regained it. Passed 
a fork which I supposed to be Lake Winipie, making 
the course N. W. The branch we took was Leech 
Lake branch, course S. W. and W. Passed a very 
large meadow or prairie, course W. The Mississippi 



St. Paul to Leech Lake 73 

is only 15 yards wide. Encamped about one mile be- 
low the traverses of the meadow. 

"Saw a large animal which, from its leaps, I supposed 
to have been a panther; but, if so, it was twice as large 
as those on the lower Mississippi. He evinced some 
disposition to approach. I lay down (Miller being in 
the rear) in order to entice him to come near, but he 
would not. The night was remarkably cold. Some 
spirits which I had in a small keg congealed to the con- 
sistency of honey." 



CHAPTER III 

LEECH LAKE TO ST. LOUIS 

February ist-April 30TH, 1806 

'^ Saturday y Feb. 1st. Left our camp pretty early. 
Passed a continued train of prairie, and arrived at Lake 
La Sang Sue at half-past two o'clock. I will not at- 
tempt to describe my feelings on the accomplishment 
of my voyage, for this is the main source of the Missis- 
sippi. The Lake Winipie branch is navigable thence 
to Red Cedar lake, for the distance of five leagues, 
which is the extremity of the navigation. Crossed the 
lake 12 miles to the establishment of the N. W. Com- 
pany, where we arrived about three o'clock, found all 
the gates locked, but upon knocking were admitted, 
and received with marked attention and hospitality by 
Mr. Hugh M'Gillis. Had a good dish of coffee, bis- 
cuit, butter, and cheese for supper." 

In these brief words which show something of the 
deeper feelings involved. Pike transcribes what he be- 
lieved to be the accomplishment of the important work 
he had set out to do. The journey had been full of 
discouragements and of perils. These he had met 
with the same composure and soldier-like simplicity 
that marks what he thought to be its final triumph. 

74 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 75 

The fact that he was mistaken in thinking that Leech 
Lake, or Lang Sue as he calls it, was the source of the 
Mississippi does not lessen our admiration for the char- 
acter of the soldier and the explorer. 

Lake Itasca, that we now know is the true source of 
the great river, is twenty-five miles, as the eagle flies, 
from Leech Lake, and this Pike never saw. Cass Lake, 
which Pike calls Red Cedar, and Lake Winnebigoshi, 
set down in his diary as Lake Winipe, were not the end 
of navigation, as he thought; but this he did not dis- 
cover. With the hospitable Hugh M'Gillis, Pike re- 
mained some time. One part of his mission was to 
look after and readjust the trading business that had 
been heretofore conducted under the British flag. Of 
these traders his host was one of the most important, 
and negotiations not favorable to his nationality and 
interests had to be conducted under his roof. Mean- 
while, worn out from his journey and with legs so 
swollen he could not wear his own but was obliged to 
borrow clothes from his host. Pike remained indoors, 
reading Volney's "Egypt," and in making himself ac- 
quainted with the trading situation through Dickinson's 
agent, George Anderson, and some young Indians he 
invited to see him. 

Six days later the rest of the party arrived, and Pike 
records M'Gillis asking permission to hoist the British 
flag in compliment to the American flag, which they 
carried. The little incident had its bearing, since the 
hoisting and lowering of flags was still a diplomatic 
matter in the disturbed and still uncertain condition of 



76 Zebulon M. Pike 

that part of the country. It is indeed on this same 
day that Pike wrote a letter to his host explaining the 
views of the new Republic on the whole matter of the 
North Western Company and its relation to the Indians, 
and acquainting its agents with the demands of the 
United States. It is not necessary to transcribe the letter 
entire, but it concludes with the following demands: 

" 1st. That you will make representations to your 
agents at your headquarters on Lake Superior, of the 
quantity of goods wanted the ensuing spring for your 
establishments in the territory of the United States, 
in time sufficient (or as early as possible) for them to 
enter them at the C. H. of Michilimackinac, and ob- 
tain a clearance and license to trade in due form. 

"2nd. That you will give immediate instructions 
to all the posts in said territory under your direction, at 
no time and under no pretense whatever to hoist, or 
suffer to be hoisted, the English flag. If you conceive 
a flag necessary, you may make use of that of the United 
States, which is the only one which can be admitted. 

"3r^. That you will on no further occasion present 
a flag or medal to an Indian, or hold councils with any 
of them on political subjects, or others foreign from that 
of trade; but that, on being applied to on those heads. 
you will refer them to the American agents, informing 
them that these are the only persons authorized to hold 
councils of a political nature with them. 

"There are many other subjects, such as the dis- 
tribution of liquor, etc., which would be too lengthy 
to be treated of in detail. But the company will do 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 77 

well to furnish themselves with our laws regulating 
commerce with the savages, and regulate themselves 
in our territories accordingly. 

"I embrace this opportunity to acknowledge my- 
self and command under singular obligations to your- 
self and agents for the assistance which you have ren- 
dered us, and the polite treatment with which we have 
been honored. With sentiments of high respect for the 
establishment and yourself, 
*'I am, Sir, 

"Your obedient servant, 

"Z. M. Pike. 
"Hugh M'Gillis, Esq.," 

Mr. M. Gillis did not answer this letter for two weeks. 
When he did so it was to comply in handsome, courte- 
ous fashion, as this extract from his letter discloses: 

"We were not conscious, Sir, of the error I acknowl- 
edge we have been guilty of committing, by exhibiting 
to view on your territory any standard of Great Britain. 
I will pledge myself to your government, that I will 
use my utmost endeavors, as soon as possible, to pre- 
vent the future display of the British flag, or the pre- 
senting of medals, or the exhibiting to public view any 
other mark of European power, throughout the extent 
of territory known to belong to the dominion of the 
United States. The custom has long been established 
and we innocently and inoffensively, as we imagined, 
have conformed to it till the present day. 

"Be persuaded that on no consideration shall any 



78 Zebulon M. Pike 

Indian be entertained on political subjects, or on any 
affairs foreign to our trade; and that reference shall 
be made to the American agents, should any applica- 
tion be made worthy such reference. Be also assured 
that we, as a commercial company, must find it ever 
our interests to interfere as little as possible with affairs 
of government in the course of trade, ignorant as we 
are in this rude and distant country of the political views 
of nations. 

"We are convinced that the inestimable advantages 
arising from the endeavors of your government to es- 
tablish a more peaceful course of trade in this part of 
the territory belonging to the United States are not 
acquired through the mere liberality of a nation, and we 
are ready to contribute to the expense necessarily at- 
tending them. We are not averse to paying the com- 
mon duties established by law, and will ever be ready 
to conform ourselves to all rules and regulations of trade 
that may be established according to common justice." 

The letter concludes with the following personal 
appreciation: 

"It is to you, Sir, we feel ourselves most greatly in- 
debted, whose claim to honor, esteem, and respect will 
ever be held in high estimation by myself and asso- 
ciates. The danger and hardships, by your fortitude 
vanquished and by your perseverance overcome, are 
signal, and will ever be preserved in the annals of the 
N. W. Company." 

While these important matters were engaging the 
minds of these two men, as soon as Pike was able, they 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 79 

were off on hunting excursions, and making various 
expeditions in the surrounding country. One of these 
was to Dickson's agent George Anderson, whose trad- 
ing-house was at the West end of Leech Lake. Pike 
writes : 

"I find him ehgibly situated as to trade, but his 
houses bad. I rode in a cariole for one person, con- 
structed in the following manner: Boards planed 
smooth, turned up in front about two feet, coming to a 
point, and about 2| feet wide behind; on which is fixed 
a box covered with dressed skins painted; this box is 
open at the top, but covered in front about two-thirds 
of the length. The horse is fastened between the 
shafts. The rider wraps himself up in a buffalo-robe 
and sits flat down, having a cushion to lean his back 
against. Thus accoutered, with a fur cap, etc., he may 
bid defiance to the wind and weather. I^pon our re- 
turn we found that some of the Indians had already 
returned from the hunting-camps; also. Monsieur 
Roussand, the gentleman supposed to have been killed 
by the Indians. His arrival with Mr. Grant diffused a 
general satisfaction through the fort. 

''Feb. loth. Hoisted the American flag in the fort. 
The English yacht still flying at the top of the flag- 
staff, I directed the Indians and my riflemen to shoot 
at it. They soon broke the iron pin to which it was 
fastened, and brought it to the ground. Reading 
Shenstone, etc. 

"Feb. nth. The Sweet, Buck, Burnt, etc., arrived, 
all chiefs of note, but the former in particular, a ven- 



8o Zebulon M. Pike 

erable old man. From him I learned that the Sioux 
occupied this ground when, to use his own phrase, he was 
a made man and began to hunt; that they occupied it 
the year that the French missionaries were killed at the 
river Pacagama. The Indians flocked in." 

One of the objects of the journey was to make peace 
between those hereditary enemies, the Sioux and the 
Chippewas, for the latter refused to allow the traders 
to deal with the Sioux, and had for that reason mur- 
dered several white men. Accordingly Pike and Brad- 
ley, accompanied by M'Gillis and two men marched 
thirty miles through the swampy country to Red Cedar 
Lake, where the Chippewas were in camp. In this 
journey he passed over the ground previously traversed 
by the noted English surveyor and explorer, David 
Thompson, in 1798, who just failed, as Pike was now 
failing, to discover the true source of the Mississippi, 
although it was so very near. The march was difficult, 
and only varied by one of the men losing the pipe stem 
of the Indian, Sweet, which he was taking to the con- 
ference, and which "was of more consequence in his 
aff'airs with the Sioux than the diploma of many an 
ambassador." The diary notes: 

"We feasted on whitefish, roasted on two iron grates 
fixed horizontally in the back of the chimney; the en- 
trails left in the fish. 

"Feb. \\th. Left the house at nine o'clock. It be- 
comes me here to do justice to the hospitality of our 
hosts; one Roy, a Canadian, and his wife, a Chipeway 
squaw. They relinquished for our use the only thing 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 8i 

in the house that could be called a bed, attended us like 
Servants, nor could either of them be persuaded to 
touch a mouthful until we had finished our repasts. 
We made the garrison about sundown, having been 
drawn at least lo miles in a sleigh by two small dogs. 
They were loaded with 200 pounds, and went so fast as 
to render it difficult for the men with snowshoes to keep 
up with them. The chiefs asked my permission to 
dance the calumet-dance, which I granted. 

"Feb. i^th. The Flat Mouth, chief of the Leech 
Lake village, and many other Indians arrived. Re- 
ceived a letter from Mr. M'Gillis. Noted down the 
heads of my speech, and had it translated into French, 
in order that the interpreter should be perfectly master 
of his subject. 

"Sunday, Feb. i6th. Held a council with the chiefs 
and warriors of this place and of Red Lake; but it re- 
quired much patience, coolness, and management to 
obtain the objects I desired, viz.: That they should 
make peace with the Sioux; deliver up their medals 
and flags; and that some of their chiefs should follow me 
to St. Louis. As a proof of their agreeing to the peace, 
I directed that they should smoke out of the Wabasha's 
pipe, which lay on the table; they all smoked, from the 
head chief to the youngest soldier. They generally de- 
livered up their flags with a good grace, except Flat 
Mouth, who said he had left both at his camp, three 
days' march, and promised to deliver them up to Mr. 
M'Gillis to be forwarded. With respect to their returning 
with me, old Sweet thought it most proper to return to 



82 Zebulon M. Pike 

the Indians of Red Lake, Red river, and Rainy Lake 
river. Flat Mouth said it was necessary for him to 
restrain his young v^^arriors, etc. The other chiefs 
did not think themselves of sufficient consequence to 
offer any reason for not following me to St. Louis, a 
journey of between 2,000 and 3,000 miles through a 
hostile tribe of Indians. I then told them that I was 
sorry to find that the hearts of the Sauteurs of this quar- 
ter were so weak; and that other nations would say: 
*What, were there no soldiers at Leech, Red, and Rainy 
Lakes who had the heart to carry the calumet of their 
chiefs to their father.'" This had the desired effect. 
The Buck and Beau, two of their most celebrated 
warriors, rose and offered themselves to me for the 
embassy; they were accepted and adopted as my chil- 
dren, and I was installed as their father. Their ex- 
ample animated the others, and it would have been no 
difficult matter to have taken a company; two, however, 
were sufficient. I determined that it should be my 
care never to make them regret the noble confidence 
placed in me; for I would have protected their lives 
with my own. Beau is a brother to Flat Mouth. 
Gave my new soldiers a dance and a small dram. 
They attempted to get more liquor, but a firm and per- 
emptory denial convinced them I was not to be trifled 
with. 

"Feb. lyth. The chief of the land brought in his flag 
and delivered it up. Made arrangements to march my 
party the next day. Instructed Sweet how to send 
parole to the Indians of Red river, etc. Put my men 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 83 

through the manual, and fired three blank rounds, all 
of which not a little astonished the Indians. I was 
obliged to give my two new soldiers each a blanket, 
pair of leggins, scissors, and looking-glass." 

Notwithstanding these naive details. Pike gives in 
too few words the conduct of this first and important 
meeting of the authority of the United States with its 
new wards in this part of the country. As he notes, he 
had written his speech, and this is preserved in the 
War Department. From it we may get a glimpse of 
the dignity and importance with which the affair was 
conducted. Pike began by explaining to the Indians 
how the United States had come into possession of the 
Mississippi River, and why the great father. President 
Jefferson, had directed his great war-chief, General 
Wilkinson, to send young warriors to learn about his 
red children. One may imagine that this young war- 
rior felt some satisfaction in falling so handsomely into 
the oratorical style of the red man, as the following 
paragraphs from his speech show: 

"Brothers: I was chosen to ascend the Mississippi, 
to bear to his red children the words of their father; 
and the Great Spirit has opened the eyes and ears of all 
the nations that I have passed to listen to my words. 
The Sauks and Reynards are planting corn and raising 
cattle. The Winnebagos continue peaceable, as usual, 
and even the Sioux have laid by the hatchet at my re- 
quest. Yes, my brothers, the Sioux, who have so long 
and so obstinately waged war against the Chipeways, 
have agreed to lay by the hatchet, smoke the calumet, 



84 Zebulon M. Pike 

and become again your brothers, as they were went to 
be. 

"Brothers: I have therefore come to fetch some of 
your approved chiefs with me to St. Louis. 

"Brothers: In speaking to you I speak to brave 
warriors. It is therefore not my intention to deceive 
you. Possibly we may meet with some bad people 
who may wish to do us ill; but if so, we will die together, 
certain that our fathers, the Americans, will settle with 
them for our blood. 

"Brothers: I find you have received from your 
traders English medals and flags. These you must de- 
liver up, and your chiefs who go with me shall receive 
others from the American government, in their room. 

"Brothers: Traders have no authority to make 
chiefs: and in doing this they have done what is not 
right. It is only great chiefs, appointed by your fathers, 
who have that authority. But at the same time you 
are under considerable obligations to your traders, who 
come over large waters, high mountains, and up swift 
falls, to supply you with clothing for your women and 
children, and ammunition for your hunters, to feed 
you, and keep you from perishing with cold. 

"Brothers: Your chiefs should see your traders 
done justice, oblige your young men to pay their credits, 
and protect them from insults; and your traders, on 
their part, must not cheat the Indians, but give them 
the value of their skins. 

"Brothers: Your father is going to appoint chiefs 
of his own to reside among you, to see justice done to 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 85 

his white and red children, who will punish those who 
deserve punishment, without reference to the color of 
their skin. 

"Brothers: I understand that one of your young 
men killed an American at Red Lake last year, but the 
murderer is far off. Let him keep so — send him where 
we may never hear of him more; for were he here I 
would be obliged to demand him of you, and make my 
young men shoot him. My hands on this journey are 
yet clear of blood — may the Great Spirit keep them 
so! 

"Brothers: We expect, in the summer, soldiers to 
come to the St. Peters. Your chiefs who go with me 
may either come up with them, or some traders who 
return sooner. They may make their selection. 

"Brothers: Your father finds that the rum with 
v/hich you are supplied by the traders is the occasion 
of quarrels, murders, and bloodshed; and that, instead 
of buying clothing for your women and children, you 
spend your skins in liquor, etc. He has determined to 
direct his young warriors and chiefs to prohibit it, and 
keep it from among you. But I have found the traders 
here with a great deal of rum on hand. I have there- 
fore given them permission to sell what they have, 
that you may forget it by degrees, against next year, 
when none will be suffered to come in the country." 

This address was answered by three Chippewa chiefs 
for their tribes. These were Sucre, whose pipe stem 
we read one of the men had almost lost. Chief de la 
Terre, and Flat Mouth. Sucre was the first to speak: 



86 Zebulon M. Pike 

"My Father: I have heard and understood the 
words of our great father. It overjoys me to see you 
make peace among us. I should have accompanied 
you had my family been present, and would have gone 
to see my father, the great war-chief. 

"My Father: This medal I hold in my hands I 
received from the English chiefs. I willingly deliver 
it to you. Wabasha's calumet with which I am pre- 
sented, I receive with all my heart. Be assured that 
I will use my best endeavors to keep my young men 
quiet. There is my calumet. I send it to my father 
the great war-chief. What does it signify that I go to see 
him I Will not my pipe answer the same purpose ? 

"My Father: You will meet the Sioux on your 
return. You will make them smoke my pipe, and tell 
them that I have let fall the hatchet. 

"My Father: Tell the Sioux on the upper part of 
the river St. Peters to mark the trees with the figure of 
a calumet, that we of Red Lake who may go that way, 
should see them, may make peace with them, being 
assured of their pacific disposition when we see the 
calumet marked on the trees." 

Chief de la Terre had but little to say. He too de- 
clined going to St. Louis, because he was going to 
Mackinaw in the spring to meet his brothers, the Amer- 
icans. Flat Mouth, the most distinguished of the Chip- 
pewa chiefs was the third speaker. The medal to 
which he alludes, he subsequently gave up as he prom- 
ised, and was afterward awarded another medal by act 
of Congress. 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 87 

"My Father: My heart beat high with joy when 
I heard that you had arrived, and that all the nations 
through which you passed had received and made peace 
among them. 

"My Father: You ask me to accompany you to 
meet our father, the great war-chief. This I would 
willingly do, but certain considerations prevent me. I 
have sent my calumet to all the Sauteaux who hunt 
round about, to assemble to form a war-party; should 
I be absent, they, when assembled, might strike those 
with whom we have made peace, and thus kill our 
brothers. I must therefore remain here to prevent 
them from assembling, as I fear that there are many who 
have begun already to prepare to meet me. I present 
you with the medal of my uncle here present. He re- 
ceived it from the English chiefs as a recompense for 
his good hunts. As for me, I have no medal here; it 
is at my tent, and I will cheerfully deliver it up. That 
medal was given me by the English traders, in consider- 
ation of something that I had done; and I can say that 
three-fourths of those here present belong to me. 

"My Father: I promise you, and you may confide 
in my word, that I will preserve peace; that I bury 
my hatchet; and that even should the Sioux come and 
strike me, for the first time, I would not take up my 
hatchet; but should they come and strike me a second 
time, I would dig up my hatchet and revenge myself." 

Pike's mission to Red Cedar Lake concluded with 
this conference. While making arrangements for the 
return trip he indicates his lofty view of the duty of a 



88 Zebulon M. Pike 

public official in a letter to Robert Dickson. Grant, 
Dickson's agent, was proposing to start on a trading 
trip among the Folle Avoins with goods that had not 
yet paid duty. This Pike forbids. "What," he writes, 
*'Lt. Pike not content with suffering the laws to slumber 
when it was his duty to have them executed, has now 
suffered the N. W. Company to violate them, and in- 
jure the citizen of the United States — certainly he must 
be corrupt to admit this. This, Sir, would be the 
natural conclusion of all persons." 

With Buck and Beau, the two young warriors, who 
had volunteered to accompany Pike back to St. Louis, 
Pike and his party started back to Lower Red Cedar 
Lake. The hospitable M'Gillis had provided not only 
a guide, L'Rone, but all the party with snow-shoes, 
and they marched off amid the shouts and hurfahs of 
the Indians who had remained to see them off. It was 
hard marching through a country of innumerable lakes, 
and at length the trading-house of M'Gillis, from 
whence they had started, was reached. Here M'Gillis 
added to his many kindnesses by giving his own car- 
riole and dogs to Pike for his journey. Pike's object 
was to strike the Mississippi at the point where he had 
left his canoes, journeying almost directly South. 

"Feb. 2ist. Traveled this day generally S. Passed 
but two lakes; Sandy Lake, which is of an oblong 
form, N. and S. four miles, and one other small one. 
The Indians, at the instigation of Mr. L'Rone, applied 
for him to accompany us. I consented that he should 
go as far as Red Cedar Lake. I then wrote a note to 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 89 

M'Gillis upon the occasion. After Reale had departed 
with it, L'Rone disclosed to me that it was his wish to 
desert the N. W. Company entirely, and accompany 
me. To have countenanced for a moment anything 
of this kind, I conceived would have been inconsistent 
with every principle of honor; I therefore obliged him 
to return immediately. We then had no guide, our 
Indians not knowing the road. Our course was through 
woods and bad brush, 15 miles. 

"Sunday, Feb. 2^d. My two Indians, Boley, and 
myself, with my sleigh and dogs, left the party under an 
idea that we should make Red Cedar lake. We 
marched hard all day, without arriving at the Missis- 
sippi. Our course was nearly due east until near night, 
when we changed more south. Took no provision or 
bedding. My Indians killed 15 partridges, some nearly 
black, with a red mark over their eyes, called the savan- 
na partridge. Overtaken about noon by two of Mr. 
Anderson's men, named Brurie and [Blank], Mr. An- 
derson himself not being able to come. 

"Feb. 2^th. We started early, and after passing over 
one of the worst roads in the world, found ourselves on 
a lake about three o'clock; took its outlet and struck 
the Mississippi about one mile below the canoes men- 
tioned on Jan. 1st, by which I knew where we were. 
Ascended the Mississippi about four miles, and en- 
camped on the west side. Our general course this day 
was nearly S., when it should have been S. E. My 
young warriors were still in good heart, singing and 
showing every wish to keep me so. The pressure of 



90 Zebulon M. Pike 

my racket strings brought the blood through my socks 
and mockinsons, from which the pain may be im- 
agined." 

The party arrived at Lower Red Cedar Lake on 
February 25th and there found Dickson's agent, Grant, 
whom Pike regarded highly and a Chippewa chief, De 
Breche, or Broken Tooth of whom Pike writes: "Is 
reputed to be a man of better information than any of 
the Sauteurs." A piece of intelligence that the chief 
confided to him was that a string of wampum had been 
sent among the Chippewas by, he thought, the British 
commanding officer at St. Joseph. This he seemed to 
think important, but its signification he does not indi- 
cate. De Breche agreed to go to Sandy Lake and 
meet Pike again at his own post the middle of March 
bringing with him his British flag and medals, and 
Buck and Beau remained behind to accompany him, 
as they said. Meanwhile, visited by chief White Fisher, 
and other Indians, Pike remained at Lower Red Cedar 
Lake until the first of March, when all his party had 
arrived, and they started back for the post, where on 
ascending they had left Kennerman, as Sergeant in 
command. As nearly as possible Pike struck his old 
camps and notes sending Bradley ahead to thaw out 
the ground and get the barrel of flour he had cached 
coming up. 

'^March 7,rd. Marched early; passed our Christ- 
mas encampment at sunrise. I was ahead of my party 
in my carriole. Soon afterward I observed a smoke 
on the W. shore. I halloed and some Indians ap- 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 91 

peared on the bank, I waited until the interpreter came 
up; we then went into camp. They proved to be a 
party of Chipeways, who had left the encampment the 
same day we had left it. They presented me with some 
meat, which I gave my sleigh dogs. They then left 
their camp and accompanied us down the river. We 
passed our encampment of Dec. 24th at nine o'clock, 
of the 23d at ten o'clock, and of the 22d at eleven o'clock; 
here the Indians crossed over to the W. shore; arrived 
at the encampment of Dec. 21st at twelve o'clock, 
where we had a barrel of flour. 

"I here found Corporal Meek and another man from 
the post from whom I heard that the men were all well; 
they confirmed the account of a Sioux having fired on 
a sentinel; and added that the sentinel had first made 
him drunk and then turned him out of the tent; upon 
which he fired on the sentinel and ran oflp, but promised 
to deliver himself up in the spring. The corporal in- 
formed me that the sergeant had used all the elegant 
hams and saddles of venison which I had preserved to 
present to the commander-in-chief and other friends; 
that he had made away with all the whisky, including 
a keg I had for my own use, having publicly sold it to 
the men, and a barrel of pork; that he had broken open 
my trunk and sold some things out of it, traded with 
the Indians, gave them liquor, etc.; and this, too, con- 
trary to my most pointed and particular directions. 
Thus, after I had used in going up the river with my 
party the strictest economy, living upon two pounds of 
frozen venison a day, in order that we might have 



92 Zebulon M. Pike 

provision to carry us clown in the spring, this fellow 
was squandering the flour, pork, and liquor during 
the winter, while we were starving with hunger and 
cold. I had saved all our corn, bacon, and the meat 
of six deer, and left it at Sandy Lake, with some tents, 
my mess-boxes, salt, tobacco, etc., all of which we were 
obliged to sacrifice by not returning the same route we 
went; we had consoled ourselves at this loss by the 
flattering idea that we should find at our little post a 
handsome stock preserved — how mortifying the disap- 
pointment! 

"We raised our barrel of flour and came down to the 
mouth of the little river, on the E., which we had passed 
on Dec. 2 1 St. The ice covered with water. 

"Mar. 4.th. Proceeded early. Passed our encamp- 
ment of Dec. 20th at sunrise. Arrived at that of the 
19th at nine o'clock; here we buried two barrels. 
Made a large fire to thaw the ground. We went on 
the prairie and found Sparks, one of my hunters, and 
brought him to the river at Pine Camp. Passed on 
opposite our camp of Dec. 13th, and encamped where 
Sparks and some men had an old hunting camp, and 
where Fresaie, a Chipeway chief surrounded them. 

"March, ^th. Passed all the encampments between 
Pine Creek and the post, at which we arrived about 
ten o'clock. I sent a man on ahead to prevent the 
salute I had before ordered by letter; this I had done 
from the idea that the Sioux chiefs would accompany 
me. Found all well. Confined my sergeant. About 
one o'clock Mr. Dickinson arrived, with Killeur Rouge, 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 93 

his son, and two other Sioux men, with two women who 
had come up to be introduced to the Sauteurs they ex- 
pected to find with me. Received a letter from Rein- 
ville. 

"Mar. 6th. Thomas, the Fols Avoin's first chief, 
arrived with ten others of his nation. I made a serious 
and authoritative expostulative representation to him 
of my opinion of the conduct of Shawonoe, another chief 
of his nation, who had behaved ill. Had also a con- 
ference with Killeur Rouge and his people. At night 
wrote to Messrs. Grant, M'Gillis, and Anderson. 

''Mar. yth. Held conversations with the Indians. 
Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, assured me that he 
would interest himself in obliging the Puants to deliver 
up the men who had recently committed murders on 
the Ouiscousing and Rock rivers; and if necessary he 
would make it a national quarrel, on the side of the 
Americans. This Thomas is a fine fellow, of a very 
masculine figure, noble and animated delivery, and 
appears to be very much attached to the Americans. 
The Sioux informed me that they would wait until I had 
determined my affairs in this country, and then bear my 
words to the St. Peters. 

"Mar. Sth. The Fols Avoin chief presented me 
with his pipe to give to the Sauteurs on their arrival, 
with assurances of their safety on their voyage, and his 
wish for them to descend the river. The Fils de Killeur 
Rouge also presented me with his pipe to present to the 
Sauteur Indians on their arrival, to make them smoke, 
and assure them of his friendly disposition, and that he 



94 



Zebulon M. Pike 



would wait to see them at Mr. Dickson's. Thomas 
made a formal complaint against a Frenchman, by 
name Greignor, who resided in Green bay, and who he 
said abused the Indians, beat them, etc., without prov- 
ocation. I promised to write to the commanding 
officer or Indian agent at Michilimackinac upon the 
occasion. The Indians with Mr. Dickson all took 
their departure. Hitched my dogs in the sleigh, which 
drew one of the Indian women down the ice, to the no 
little amusement of the others. Went some distance 
down the river in order to cut a mast. Cut a pine 
mast 35 feet long for my big boat at the prairie. This 
day my little boy broke the cock of my gun; few trifling 
misfortunes could have happened which I should have 
regretted more, as the wild fowl just began to return on 
the approach of spring. 

"Sunday, Mar. gth. I examined into the conduct 
of my sergeant, and found that he was guilty; pun- 
ished him by reduction, etc. Visited the Fols Avoin 
lodges and received a present of some tallow. One of 
my men arrived from the hunting-camp with two deer. 

"Mar. loth. Was visited by the Fols Avoin chief and 
several others of his nation. This chief was an ex- 
traordinary hunter; to instance his power, he killed 40 
elk and a bear in one day, chasing the former from 
dawn to eve. We were all busied in preparing oars, 
guns, mast, etc., by the time the ice broke up, which 
was opening fast. 

"Mar. I ith. In a long conversation with a Reynard, 
he professed not to believe in an hereafter; but he be- 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 95 

lieved that the world would all be drowned by water 
at some future period; he asked how it was to be re- 
peopled. In justice to his nation, however, I must 
observe his opinion was singular. 

''Mar. i^th. Took the latitude by an artificial hori- 
zon. 

''March i^th. Received two deer from my hunting 
camp. Went out with my gun on the opposite side of 
the river. Ascended the mountain which borders the 
prairie. On the point of it I found a stone on which 
the Indians had sharpened their knives, and a war- 
club half finished. From this spot you may extend 
the eye over vast prairies with scarcely any interruption 
but clumps of trees, which at a distance appeared Hke 
mountains, from two or three of which the smoke rising 
in the air denoted the habitation of the wandering savage, 
and too often marked them out as victims to their ene- 
mies; from whose cruelty I have had the pleasure in the 
course of the winter and through a wilderness of im- 
mense extent to relieve them, as peace has reigned 
through my mediation from the prairie Des Cheins 
to the lower Red river. If a subaltern with but 20 
men, at so great a distance from the seat of his govern- 
ment, could effect so important a change in the minds 
of those savages, what might not a great and independ- 
ent power effect, if, instead of blowing up the flames 
of discord, they exerted their influence in the sacred 
cause of peace ^ 

"When I returned to the fort, I found the Fols Avoin 
chief, who intended to remain all night. He told me 



96 Zebulon M. Pike 

that near the conclusion of the Revolutionary War his 
nation began to look upon him as a warrior; that they 
received a parole from Michilimackinac, on which he 
was dispatched with 40 warriors; and that on his ar- 
rival he was requested to lead them against the Ameri- 
cans. To which he replied: 'We have considered 
you and the Americans as one people. You are now 
at war; how are we to decide who has justice on their 
side ? Besides, you white people are like the leaves 
on the trees for numbers. Should I march with my 40 
warriors to the field of battle, they with their chief would 
be unnoticed in the multitude, and would be swallowed 
up as the big water embosoms the small rivulets which 
discharge themselves into it. No, I will return to my 
nation, where my countrymen may be of service against 
our red enemies, and their actions renowned in the 
dance of our nation.' " 

Pike expected to remain at the post some time. For 
one thing to place the Sioux and the Chippewas on a 
secure peace footing, it was necessary for the young 
warriors. Buck and Beau, to accompany him down 
the river, and they had not yet arrived. He comments 
on the fact that while the Sioux were candid and brave 
in their dealings, the Chippewas were suspicious and 
consequently treacherous and cowardly. 

While he waited he determined to visit Thomas, a 
Menominee chief who was in camp with six lodges 
about twenty miles away. It was snowing hard, but 
he set out with an interpreter and Private Roy, camp- 
ing out without shelter and having only a blanket 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 97 

apiece. But what was worse luck, after wandering up 
and down both sides of the Skunk River they missed the 
Indians altogether. Pike, however, was not discour- 
aged, and the next entry in his diary says: 

"Mar. iSth. We marched, determined to find the 
lodges. Met an Indian whose track we pursued through 
almost impenetrable woods for about 2 miles to the 
camp. Here there was one of the finest sugar camps I 
almost ever saw, the whole of the timber being sugar-tree. 
We were conducted to the chief's lodge, who received 
us in almost patriarchal style. He pulled off my leg- 
gings and mockinsons, put me in the best place in his 
lodge, and offered me dry clothes. He then presented 
us with syrup of the maple to drink, and asked whether 
I preferred eating beaver, swan, elk, or deer; upon my 
giving the preference to the first, a large kettle was filled 
by his wife, in which soup was made; this being thick- 
ened with flour, we had what I then thought a delicious 
repast. After we had refreshed ourselves, he asked 
whether we would visit his people at the other lodges, 
which we did, and in each were presented with some- 
thing to eat; by some, with a bowl of sugar; by others, 
a beaver's tail, etc. After making this tour we returned 
to the chief's lodge, and found a berth provided for 
each of us, of good soft bearskins nicely spread, and on 
mine there was a large feather pillow. 

"I must not here omit to mention an anecdote which 
serves to characterize more particularly their manners. 
This in the eyes of the contracted moralist would deform 
my hospitable host into a monster of libertinism; but 



98 Zebulon M. Pike 

by a liberal mind would be considered as arising from 
the hearty generosity of the wild savage. In the course 
of the day, observing a ring on one of my fingers, he 
inquired if it was gold; he was told it was the gift of 
one with whom I should be happy to be at that time; 
he seemed to think seriously, and at length asked the 
interpreter if his father would not like an Indian wife. 
But the interpreter assured the chief that all great 
men in the United States had only one wife. The chief 
accepted this statement but remarked that he liked to 
have as many as he pleased." 

The next morning buying two baskets of sugar from 
the Indians, and feasting on a swan for breakfast, the 
party started back to the post. Pike arriving before 
sundown and sending back snow shoes for private Roy 
who got in a couple of hours later. The hunting camp 
Pike set up while building the post, or as he calls it 
'*my fort," was now kept busy supplying the party with 
fresh meat, while the leader was occupied with hospital- 
ities toward the neighboring Indians. 

''Mar. 2ist. Received a visit from the Fols Avoin 
chief called the Shawonoe, and six young men. I in- 
formed him without reserve of the news I had heard 
of him at Red Cedar Lake, and the letter I wrote to 
Mr. Dickson. He denied it in toto, and on the con- 
trary said that he presented his flag and two medals to 
the Chipeways, as an inducement for them to descend in 
the spring; and gave them all the encouragement in his 
power. His party was much astonished at the language 
I held with him. But from his firm protestations we 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 99 

finally parted friends. He informed me that a camp of 
Sauteurs were on the river, waiting for the chiefs to 
come down; from which it appeared they were still ex- 
pected. At night, after the others had gone, Thomas 
arrived and stayed all night. We agreed upon a 
hunting-party; also promised to pay old Shawonoe a 
visit. He informed me that he set out the other day to 
follow me, but finding the storm so very bad returned 
to his wigwam. The thermometer lower than it has 
been at any time since I commenced my voyage. 

" Sunday y Mar. 23^. Agreeably to promise, after 
breakfast I departed with Miller and my interpreter to 
pay a visit to the old chief Shawonoe. We arrived at 
his camp in about two hours. On our way we met 
the Fols Avoin called Chein Blanche who had visited 
my post previously to my starting up the river, and at 
whose house we stopped when passing. We were re- 
ceived by old Shawonoe at his lodge with the usual Ind- 
ian hospitality, but very different from the polite recep- 
tion given us by Thomas. 

"Charlevoix and others have all borne testimony to 
the beauty of this nation. From my own observation, I 
had sufficient reason to confirm their information as 
respected the males; for they were all straight and well- 
made, about the middle size; their complexions gener- 
ally fair for savages, their teeth good, their eyes large 
and rather languishing; they have a mild but indepen- 
dent expression of countenance, that charms at first sight ; 
in short, they would be considered anywhere as hand- 
some men. But their account of the women I never 



100 Zebulon M. Pike 

before believed to be correct. In this lodge there were 
five very handsome women when we arrived; and 
about sundown a married pair arrived, whom my in- 
terpreter observed were the handsomest couple he 
knew; and in truth they were, the man being about 5 
feet 1 1 inches, and possessing in an eminent manner 
all the beauties of countenance, which distinguish his 
nation. His companion was 22 years old, having dark 
brown eyes, jet hair, an elegantly proportioned neck, 
and her figure by no means inclined to corpulency, as 
they generally are after marriage. He appeared to 
attach himself particularly to me, and informed me 
his wife was the daughter of an American; but his 
name he was unacquainted with. I had brought six 
biscuits with me, which I presented her on the score of 
her being my country woman, and she was called 'the 
Bostonian' during the rest of my stay. 

"I found them extremely hard to deal with. My pro- 
vision being only venison, I wished to procure some 
bear's oil, for a few gallons of which I was obliged to pay 
^i per gallon, and then they wished to mix tallow with 
the oil. They also demanded $10 for a bear-skin, the 
most beautiful I ever saw, which I wanted to mount a 
saddle. Indeed I was informed that traders in this 
country sometimes give as much as ^16 for bear-skins, 
for they are eminently superior to anything of the kind 
on the lower Mississippi, and sell in Europe for double 
the price. In the evening we were entertained with the 

calumet and the dog dance; also the dance of the . 

Some of the men struck the post and told some of their 



Leech Lake to St. Louis loi 

war exploits; but as they spoke in Menominee, my in- 
terpreter could not explain it. After the dance, we 
had the feast of the dead, as it is called, at which each 
two or three were served with a pan or vessel full of 
meat, and when all were ready there was a prayer, after 
which the eating commenced. Then it was expected 
we should eat up our portion entirely, being careful not 
to drop a bone, but to gather all up and put them in the 
dish. We were then treated with soup. After the eat- 
ing was finished the chief again gave an exhortation, 
which finished the ceremony. I am told they then 
gather up all the fragments, and throw them in the 
water, lest the dogs should get them. Burning them is 
considered as sacrilegious. In this lodge were collected 
at one time 41 persons, great and small, 17 of whom 
were capable of bearing arms, besides dogs without 
number. 

"Mar. 2\th. Rose early and with my dog-sled ar- 
rived at the fort before ten o'clock. In the afternoon 
Mr. Grant arrived with De Breche and some of his 
young men. Saluted him with 14 rounds. Found my 
two young warriors of Leech Lake were brave enough 
to return to their homes. Mr. Grant and myself sat up 
late talking. 

''Mar. 26th. Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief, arrived 
with seven of his men, and old Shawonoe and six of his 
party. I had them all to feed as well as my own men. 
At night I gave them leave to dance in the garrison, 
which they did until ten o'clock; but once or twice told 
me that if I was tired of them the dance should cease. 



102 Zebulon M. Pike 

Old Shawonoe and White Dog of the Fols Avoins told 
their exploits, which we could not understand; but 
De Breche arose and said, *I once killed a Sioux and 
cut off his head with such a spear as I now present to 
this Winebago' — at the same time presenting one to a 
Winebago present, with whom the Chipeways were at 
war; this was considered by the former as a great 
honor. My hunters went out but killed nothing. 

"Mar. ijth. In the morning the Chipeway chief 
made a speech and presented his peace pipe to me to 
bear to the Sioux, on which were seven strings of wam- 
pum, as authority from seven bands of the Chipeways 
either to conclude peace or to make war. As he had 
chosen the former, he sent his pipe to the Sioux and 
requested me to inform them that he and his people 
would encamp at the mouth of the Riviere de corbeau 
the ensuing summer, where he would see the United 
States flag flying. As a proof of his pacific disposition, 
the Fols Avoin chief then spoke and said: His nation 
was rendered small by its enemies; only a remnant was 
left, but they could boast of not being slaves; for that 
always in preference to their women and children being 
taken they themselves killed them. But that their 
father (as they called me) had traveled far, and had 
taken much pains to prevent the Sioux and Chipeways 
from killing one another; that he thought no one could 
be so ungenerous as to neglect listening to the words 
of their father; that he would report to the Sioux the 
pacific disposition of the Sauteurs, and hoped the peace 
would be firm and lasting. I then in a few words in- 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 103 

formed De Breche that I would report to the Sioux 
all he had said, and that I should ever feel pleased and 
grateful that the two nations had laid aside the toma- 
hawk at my request. That I thanked the Fols Avoin 
chief for his good wishes and parole which he had given 
the Sauteurs. After all this, each chief was furnished 
with a kettle of liquor, to drink each other's health; 
and De Breche's flag which I presented him was dis- 
played in the fort. The Fols Avoin then departed, at 
which I was by no means displeased; for they had 
already consumed all the dry meat I had laid aside 
for my voyage, and I was apprehensive that my hunters 
would not be able to lay aside another supply. 

"Mar. 28/A, Late in the afternoon Mr. Grant and 
the Sauteurs took their departure, calculating that the 
Sioux had left the country. Took with me one of my 
soldiers and accompanied them to the Fols Avoins 
lodge, called the Shawonese, where we ten stayed all 
night. The Fols Avoins and Sauteurs had a dance, at 
which I left them and went to sleep. Feasted on elk, 
sugar, and syrup. Previously to the Indians' depart- 
ing from my post, I demanded the chief's medal and 
flags; the former he delivered, but with a bad grace; 
the latter he said were in the lands when I left Lake De 
Sable (as instructed by the traders I suppose), and that 
he could not obtain them. It thundered and lightened. 

"Mar. 2gth. We all marched in the morning, Mr. 
Grant and party for Sandy Lake, and I for my hunt- 
ing-camp. I gave him my spaniel dog. He joined me 
again after we had separated about five miles. Arrived 



104 Zebulon M. Pike 

at my hunting-camp about eight o'clock in the morning, 
and was informed that my hunters had gone to bring 
in a deer; they arrived with it, and about eleven o'clock 
we all went out hunting. Saw but few deer, out of 
which I had the good fortune to kill two. On our arrival 
at camp found one of my men at the garrison with a 
letter from Mr. Dickson. The soldier informed me that 
one Sioux had arrived with Mr. Dickson's men. Al- 
though much fatigued, as soon as I had eaten some- 
thing I took one of my men and departed for the garri- 
son one hour before sundown. The distance was 21 
miles, and the ice very dangerous, being rotten, with 
water over it nearly a foot deep; we had sticks in our 
hands, and in many places ran them through the ice. 
It thundered and lightened, with rain. The Sioux, 
not finding the Sauteurs, had returned immediately. 

''Sunday, Mar. ^oth. Wrote to Mr. Dickson, and 
dispatched his man. Considerably stiff from my yes- 
terday's march. Calked our boats, as the ice had 
every appearance of breaking up in a few days. Thus 
while on the wing of eager expectation, every day seemed 
an age. Received 2^ deer from our hunting-camp. 

"Mar.T^ist. Finished calking my boats; the difficulty 
then was with me, what I should get to pitch the seams. 
We were all this day and next as anxiously watching the 
ice as a lover would the arrival of the priest who was to 
unite him to his beloved. Sometimes it moved a little, 
but soon closed. An Indian and his woman crossed it 
when the poles which they held in their hands were 
forced through in many places. The provision to 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 105 

which I was obHged to restrict myself and men, viz., 
two pounds of fresh venison daily, was scarcely suffi- 
cient to keep us alive. Though I had not an extraor- 
dinary appetite, yet I was continually hungry." 

The waiting time was now spent in hunting. A half 
dozen bears came in from the hunting-camp, and Pike 
himself with a couple of men crossing to the hills on the 
other side succeeded in killing a swan and a goose, 
arid would have got elk, but four swimming directly 
toward them were turned away by the sleigh dogs, which 
jumped into the water after them. The party camped 
out in the cold, and the next day managed to get a buck, 
which they greatly needed, arriving at the post in the 
afternoon. 

''April ^th. In the morning despatched two men 
down the river in order to see if it was open. My 
hunters arrived from the camps. Tallowed my boats 
with our candles and launched them; they made con- 
siderable water. The young Shawonoe arrived in my 
canoe from above, with about 1,000 lbs. of fur, which he 
deposited in the fort. The men returned and informed 
me that the river was still shut about 10 miles below. 

"Sunday, Apr. 6th. Sailed my peroque with Ser- 
geant Bradley and two men, to descend the river and 
see if it was yet open below. They returned in the 
afternoon and reported all clear. I had previously de- 
termined to load and embark the next day, and hoped 
to find it free by the time I arrived. The Fols Avoin 
called the Shawonoe arrived and encamped near the 
stockade. He informed me that his nation had de- 



io6 Zebulon M. Pike 

termined to send his son down in his place, as he de- 
clined the voyage to St, Louis. All hearts and hands 
were employed in preparing for our departure. In the 
evening the men cleared out their room, danced to the 
violin, and sang songs until eleven o'clock, so rejoiced 
was every heart at leaving this savage wilderness. 

^' Apr. Jth. Loaded our boats and departed at 40 
minutes past ten o'clock. At one o'clock arrived at 
Clear river, where we found my canoe and men. Al- 
though I had partly promised the Fols Avoin chief to 
remain one night, yet time was too precious, and we 
put off; passed the Grand Rapids, and arrived at Mr. 
Dickson's just before sun-down. We were saluted 
with three rounds. At night he treated all my men with 
a supper and a dram. Mr. Dickson, Mr. Paulier and 
myself sat up until four o'clock in the morning." 

Pike remained here a day, writing up his notes on the 
Sioux, charting the St. Peters river, and settling Indian 
affairs with his host and Mr. Paulier. He expected to 
have started early the next morning, but seeing two 
drunken Indians, he waited to find out how they got 
their liquor. He discovered it had been sold them by 
a trader. La Jeunesse, whose license was nothing more 
than a general liberty to trade. Part of Pike's mission 
was to investigate the conditions of the Indian trade, 
and his course is marked by the temperance lectures 
he addressed the Indians, and his determination to 
hold the traders in check. He now addressed a letter 
to La Jeunesse, who demanded instructions in writing, 
threatening prosecution in the name of the United States 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 107 

if he persisted. The apparent inconsistency of Pike's 
instructions to the traders, and his own repeated proffer 
of drams to the Indians can only be explained by the 
established etiquette of the country, and that the liquor 
was two thirds water. These matters being adjusted 
the party started, and by four o'clock had reached Mr. 
Paulier's house below, to whose brother he had a letter, 
where they stopped a short time. 

"After having left this place some time, we discovered 
a bark canoe ahead; we gained on it for some time, 
when it turned a point about 300 yards before, and on 
turning it also, it had entirely disappeared. This ex- 
cited my curiosity; I stood up in the barge, and at last 
discovered it turned up in the grass of the prairie; but 
after we had passed a good gunshot, three savages 
made their appearance from under it, launched it in 
the river, and followed, not knowing of my other boats, 
which had just turned the point immediately upon 
them. They then came on, and on my stopping for 
the night at a vacant trading-post, they also stopped 
and addressed me. 'Saggo, Commandant' or 'by your 
servant, Captain.' I directed my interpreter to inquire 
their motives for concealing themselves. They replied 
that their canoe leaked, and they had turned her up 
to discharge water. This I did not believe; and as 
their conduct was rather equivocal I received them 
rather sternly; I gave them, however, a dram and a 
piece of bread. Then they re-embarked and continued 
down the river. Their conduct brought to mind the 
visit of Fils de Pinchot to Mr. Dickson during the 



io8 Zebulon M. Pike 

winter; one principal cause of which was that he wished 
to inform me that seven men, whom I mentioned to 
have met (Sept. 28th) when crossing the portage of St. 
Anthony, had since declared they would kill him for 
agreeing to the peace between the Sioux and Sauteurs; 
me for being instrumental in preventing them from 
taking revenge for relations killed by the Sauteurs in 
August, 1805; and Thomas, the Fols Avoin chief for the 
support he seemed to give me. This information had 
not made the impression it ought to have made, coming 
from so respectable a source, as the first chief of the 
village; but the conduct of those fellows put me to 
the consideration of it. And I appeal to God and my 
country if self preservation would not have justified me 
in cutting those scoundrels to pieces wherever I found 
them. This my men would have done if so ordered, 
amid a thousand of them, and I should hare been sup- 
ported by the chiefs of St. Peters, at the mouth of which 
were 800 warriors, attending my arrival; also I should 
have been justified in cutting to pieces the rascal who 
fired on my sentinel last winter. I dreaded the conse- 
quences of the meeting, not for the present, but for 
fear the impetuosity of my conduct might not have been 
approved by the government, which did not know in- 
timately the nature of those savages. This day for the 
first time we saw the commencement of vegetation; yet 
the snow was a foot deep in some places. 

''April loth. Sailed at half past five o'clock; about 
seven passed Rum river, and at eight were saluted by 
six or seven lodges of Fols Avoins, among whom was a 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 109 

clerk of Mr. Dixon's. Those people had wintered on 
Rum river, and were waiting for their chiefs and trad- 
ers to descend in order to accompany them to the 
Prairie Des Chiens. Arrived at the falls of St. An- 
thony at ten o'clock. Carried over all our lading and 
the canoe to the lower end of the portage, and hauled 
our boats up on the bank. I pitched my tents at the 
lower end of the encampment, where all the men en- 
camped, except the guard, whose quarters were above. 
"The appearance of the falls was much more tre- 
mendous than when we ascended; the increase of 
water occasioned the spray to rise much higher, and 
the mist appeared like clouds. How different my sen- 
sations now from what they were when at this place be- 
fore! At that time, not having accompHshed more 
than half my route, winter fast approaching, war exist- 
ing between the most savage nations in the course of 
my route, my provisions greatly diminished and but a 
poor prospect of an additional supply, many of my men 
sick and the others not a little disheartened, our suc- 
cess in this arduous undertaking very doubtful, just 
upon the borders of the haunts of civilized men, about 
to launch into an unknown wilderness — for ours was 
the first canoe that had ever crossed this portage — 
were reasons sufficient to dispossess my breast of con- 
tentment and ease. But now we have accomplished 
every wish, peace reigns throughout the vast extent, we 
have returned thus far on our voyage without the loss 
of a single man, and hope soon to be blessed with the 
society of our relations and friends. 



no Zebulon M. Pike 

"The river this morning was covered with ice, which 
continued floating all day; the shores were still barri- 
caded with it. 

"Apr. nth. Although it snowed very hard, we 
brought over both boats and descended the river to the 
island at the entrance of the St. Peters. I sent to the 
chiefs and informed them I had something to commu- 
nicate to them. Fils de Pinchot immediately waited 
on me, and informed me that he would provide a place 
for the purpose. About sundown I was sent for and 
introduced into the council-house, where I found a great 
many chiefs of the Sussitongs, Gens des Feuilles, and 
Gens du Lac. The Yanctongs had not yet come down. 
They were all waiting for my arrival. There were 
about 100 lodges, or 600 people; we were saluted on 
our crossing the river with ball, as usual. The council- 
house was two large lodges, capable of containing 300 
men. In the upper were 40 chiefs, and as many pipes 
set against the poles, alongside of which I had the 
Sauteur's pipes arranged. I then informed them in 
short detail of my transactions with the Sauteurs; but 
my interpreters were not capable of making themselves 
understood. I was therefore obliged to omit mention- 
ing every particular relative to the rascal who fired on 
my sentinel, and to the scoundrel who broke the Fols 
Avoins' canoes and threatened my life. The inter- 
preters informed them that I wanted some of their 
principal chiefs to go to St. Louis; and that those who 
thought proper might descend to the prairie, where we 
would give them more explicit information. They all 



Leech Lake to St. Louis in 

smoked out of the Sauteurs pipes, excepting three, who 
were painted black, and who were some of them who 
lost their relations last winter. I invited Fils de Pin- 
chot and the son of Killeur Rouge to come over and sup 
with me; when Mr. Dickson and myself endeavored 
to explain what I intended to have said to them, could 
I have made myself understood; that at the prairie we 
could have all things explained; that I was desirous of 
making a better report of them than Captain Lewis 
could do from their treatment of him. The former 
of those savages was the person who remained around 
my post all winter, and treated my men so well. They 
endeavored to excuse their people etc. 

''Apr. 12th. Embarked early. Although my inter- 
preter had been there frequently, he could not tell me 
where the cave spoken of by Carver could be found; 
we carefully sought for it, but in vain. At the Indian 
village a few miles above St. Peters we were about to 
pass a few lodges, but on receiving a very particular 
invitation to come on shore, we landed and were re- 
ceived in the lodge kindly; they presented us with sugar 
etc. I gave the proprietor a dram, and was about to 
depart when he demanded a kettle of liquor; on being 
refused, and after I had left the shore, he told me that 
he did not like the arrangements and that he would go 
to war this summer. I directed the interpreter to tell 
him that if I returned to St. Peters with the troops I 
would settle the affair with him. On our arrival at the 
St. Croix I found Petit Corbeau with his people and 
Messrs. Frazer and Wood. We had a conference when 



112 Zebulon M. Pike 

Petit Corbeau made many apologies for the miscon- 
duct of his people; he represented to us the different 
manners in which his young warriors had been induc- 
ing him to go to war; that he had been much blamed 
for dismissing his party last fall, but that he was de- 
termined to adhere as far as lay in his power to our in- 
structions; that he thought it most prudent to remain 
here and restrain the warriors. He then presented me 
with a beaver robe and pipe, and his message to the 
general, that he was determined to preserve peace, 
and make the road clear; also, a remembrance of his 
promised medal. I made him a reply calculated to 
confirm him in his good intentions, and assured him 
that he should not be the less remembered by his fa- 
ther, although not present. 

"I was informed that notwithstanding the instruc- 
tion of his license and my particular request, Murdoch 
Cameron had taken liquor and sold it to the Indians 
on the river St. Peters, and that his partner below had 
been equally imprudent. I pledged myself to prosecute 
them according to law; for they have been the occasion 
of great confusion and of much injury to the other 
traders. 

"This day we met a canoe of Mr. Dickson's loaded 
with provision, under the charge of Mr. Anderson, 
brother of Mr. Anderson at Leech Lake. He politely 
offered me any provision he had on board, for which Mr. 
Dickson had given me an order; but not now being in 
want I did not accept of any. This day, for the first 
time, I observed the trees beginning to bud, and indeed 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 113 

the climate seemed to have changed very materially 
since we passed the Falls of St. Anthony. 

"Sunday, Apr. iph. We embarked after break- 
fast. Messrs. Frazer and Wood accompanied me. 
Wind strong ahead. They outrov^ed us — the first boat 
or canoe we met with on the voyage able to do it; but 
then they were double-manned and light. Arrived at 
the band of Aile Rouge at two o'clock, where we were 
saluted as usual. 

"We had a council, when he spoke with more de- 
testation of the conduct of the rascals at the mouth of 
the St. Peters than any man I had yet heard. He as- 
sured me, speaking of the fellow who had fired on my 
sentinel and threatened to kill me, that if I thought it 
requisite, he should be killed; but as there were many 
chiefs above with whom he wished to speak, he hoped 
I would remain one day, when all the Sioux would be 
down, and I might have the command of a thousand 
men of them; that I would probably think it no honor, 
but that the British used to flatter them they were 
proud of having them for soldiers. I replied in general 
terms, and assured him it was not for the conduct of 
two or three rascals that I meant to pass over all the 
good treatment I had received from the Sioux" nation; 
but that in general council I would explain myself. 
That as to the scoundrel who fired at my sentinel, had 
I been at home the Sioux nation would never have been 
troubled with him, for I would have killed him on the 
spot; but that my young men did not do it, apprehensive 
that I would be displeased. I then gave him the news of 



114 Zebulon M. Pike 

the Sauteurs, etc. ; that as to remaining one day, it would 
be of no service; that I was much pressed to arrive be- 
low, as my general expected me, my duty called me, 
and the state of my provision demanded the utmost 
expedition; that I would be happy to oblige him, but 
my men must eat. He replied that, Lake Pepin being 
yet shut with ice, if I went on and encamped on the ice 
it would not get me provision; that he would send out 
all his young men the next day; and that if the other 
bands did not arrive he would depart the day after 
with me. In short, after much talk, I agreed to remain 
one day, knowing that the lake was closed and that we 
could proceed only nine miles if we went. 

"This appeared to give general satisfaction. I was 
invited to different feasts, and entertained at one by a 
person whose father had been enacted a chief by the 
Spaniards. At this feast I saw a man called by the 
French Roman Nose, and by the Indians Wind that 
Walks, who was formerly the second chief of the Sioux; 
but being the cause of the death of one of the traders, 
seven years since, he voluntarily relinquished that dig- 
nity, and has frequently asked to be given up to the 
whites. But he was now determined to go to St. Louis 
and deliver himself up, where he said they might put him 
to death. His long repentance and the great confidence 
of the nation in him would perhaps protect him from a 
punishment which the crime merited. But as the crime 
was committed long before the United States assumed 
authority, and as no law of theirs could affect it, unless it 
were ex post facto and had a retrospective effect, I con- 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 115 

ceived it would certainly be dispunishable now. I did 
not, however, think proper to so inform him. I here 
received a letter from Mr. Rollett, partner of Mr. Cam- 
eron with a present of some brandy, coffee and sugar. 
I hesitated about receiving those articles from the part- 
ner of the man I intended to prosecute; their amount 
being trifling, I accepted of them, offering to pay. I 
assured him that the prosecution arose from a sense of 
duty, and not from personal prejudice. 

"The canoe did not come up, in consequence of the 
head wind. Sent out two men in a canoe to set fishing- 
lines; the canoe overset, and had it not been for the 
timely assistance of the savages, who carried them into 
their lodges, undressed them, and treated them with the 
greatest humanity and kindness, they must inevitably 
have perished. At this place I was informed that the 
rascal spoken of as having threatened my life had act- 
ually cocked his gun to shoot me from behind the hills, 
but was prevented by the others. 

"Apr. i/\.th. Was invited to a feast by Roman Nose. 
His conversation was interesting, and shall be detailed 
hereafter. The other Indians had not yet arrived. 
Messrs. Wood, Frazer, and myself ascended a high hill 
called the Barn, from which we had a view of Lake 
Pepin, of the valley through which the Mississippi by 
numerous channels wound itself to the St. Croix, the 
Cannon river, and the lofty hills on each side. 

''Apr. i^th. Arose very early and embarked about 
sunrise, much to the astonishment of the Indians, who 
were entirely prepared for the council when they heard 



ii6 Zebulon M. Pike 

I had put off. However, after some conversation with 
Mr. Frazer, they acknowledged that it was agreeably 
to what I had said, that I would sail early, and that 
they could not blame me. I was very positive in my 
word, for I found it by far the best way to treat the 
Indians. Aile Rouge had a beaver robe and pipe pre- 
pared to present, but was obliged for the present to re- 
tain it. Passed through Lake Pepin with my barges; 
the canoe being obliged to lie by, did not come on. 
Stopped at a prairie on the right bank, descending about 
nine miles below Lake Pepin. Went out to view some 
hills which had the appearance of the old fortifications 
spoken of, but I will speak more fully of them hereafter. 
In these hollows I discovered a flock of elk; took out 
15 men, but we were not able to kill any. Mr. Frazer 
came up and passed on about two miles. We encamped 
together." 

Pike is now going over familiar ground. He notes 
passing Aile prairie, Winona, Trempeleau, and La 
Crosse, camping at what is now Brownsville, where he 
stopped to shoot pigeons, and notes the trees in bloom. 
He paid a visit to Wabashaw, who was out hunting and 
left him a present of powder and tobacco, and received 
in turn from his band a kettle of hot soup and a deer. 
The party breakfasted at Painted Rock and arrived at 
Prairie du Chien at two o'clock where it was welcomed 
by crowds on the bank. 

Here Pike was to break his journey in order to hold 
conferences with the Indians concerning recent mur- 
ders of white men. He took up his quarters again with 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 117 

Mr. Fisher, and his men were hospitably received with 
gifts of food from the different white traders. What 
was also, doubtless, most pleasing was the news, "civil 
and military," from the outside world which he received 
for the first time in many months. Immediately on his 
arrival he took occasion to write the following letter to 
his chief, General Wilkinson. 

"Prairie de CuiENy Apr. iSth, 1806. 
"Dear General: 

"I arrived here within the hour, and as Mr. Jarreau, 
of Cahokia, embarks for St. Louis early to-morrow 
morning, I embrace this opportunity to give a slight 
sketch of the events of my expedition. Being obliged 
to steal the hours from my repose, I hope the General 
will pardon the conciseness of my epistle. 

"I pushed forward last October with all eagerness, 
in hopes to make Lake Sable, and return to St. Louis 
in the Autumn. The weather was mild and promising 
until the middle of the month, when a sudden change 
took place and the ice immediately commenced running. 
I was then conscious of my inability to return, as the 
falls and other obstacles would detain me until the river 
would close. I then concluded it best to station part 
of my men, and push my discovery with the remainder 
on foot. I marched with 1 1 soldiers and my interpre- 
ter 700 miles to the source of the Mississippi, through 
(I may without vanity say) as many hardships as al- 
most any party of Americans ever experienced by cold 
and hunger. I was on the communication of the Red 



ii8 Zebulon M. Pike 

River and the Mississippi, the former being a water 
of Hudson's bay. The British flag, which was ex- 
panded on some very respectable positions, has given 
place to that of the United States wherever we passed; 
likewise we have the faith and honor of the N. W. 
Company for about ^13,000 duties this year; and by 
the voyage peace is established between the Sioux and 
Sauteurs. These objects I have been happy to accom- 
plish without the loss of one man, although once fired 
on. I expect hourly the Sussitongs, Yanctongs, Wach- 
pecoutes, and three other bands of Sioux; some are 
from the head of the St. Peters, and some from the plains 
west of that river. From here I bring with me a few 
of the principal men only, agreeably to your orders; 
also, some chiefs of the Fols Avoins or Menomones, and 
Winebagos, the latter of whom have murdered three 
men since my passing here last autumn. The murder- 
ers I shall demand, and am in expectation of obtaining 
two, for whom I now have irons making, and expect to 
have them with me on my arrival. Indeed, Sir, the 
insolence of the savages in this quarter is unbounded; 
and unless an immediate example is made, we shall cer- 
tainly be obliged to enter into a general war with them. 

"My party has been some small check to them this 
winter, as I determined to preserve the dignity of our 
flag, or die in the attempt. 

**I presume, General, that my voyage will be produc- 
tive of much new, useful, and interesting information 
for our government, although detailed in the unpol- 
ished diction of a soldier of fortune. 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 119 

"The river broke up at my stockade, 600 miles above 
here, on the 7th inst., and Lake Pepin was passable 
for boats only on the 14th. Thus you may perceive, 
Sir, I have not been slow^ in my descent, leaving all the 
traders behind me. From the time it will take to make 
my arrangements, and the state of the water, I calcu- 
late on arriving at the cantonment on the 4th of May; 
and hope my General will be assured that nothing but 
the most insurmountable obstacles shall detain me one 
moment. 

"N. B. I beg leave to caution the General against 
attending to the reports of any individuals relating to 
this country, as the most unbounded prejudices and 
party rancor pervade almost generally. 
"I am, dear Sir, 

"With great consideration, 
"Your obedient servant, 

[Signed] "Z. M. Pike, Z/." 

Pike found awaiting him at Prairie du Chien a number 
of chiefs. Fox, Sioux from the Des Moines River, and 
soon after came six canoes of Yanktons from St. Peters, 
which he considered more nearly resembled savages 
than any Indians he had met, and chief Wabashaw, 
whom he had missed up the river, and with whom he 
had a private conference. His chief business, however, 
was with the Winnebagos, "Puants," as he calls them. 

''Sunday, Apr. 20th. Held a council with the Puant 
chiefs, and demanded of them the murderers of their 
nation; they required till to-morrow to consider it. 



120 Zebulon M. Pike 

I made a written demand of the magistrates to take 
depositions concerning the late murders. Had a private 
conversation v^ith Wabasha. 

"This afternoon they had a great game of the cross on 
the prairie, betv^^een the Sioux on the one side, and the 
Puants and Reynards on the other. The ball is made 
of some hard substance and covered with leather; the 
cross-sticks are round and net-work, with handles of 
three feet long. The parties being ready, and bets 
agreed upon, sometimes to the amount of some thousand 
dollars, the goals are set up on the prairie at the dis- 
tance of half a mile. The ball is thrown up in the 
middle, and each party strives to drive it to the opposite 
goal; when either party gains the first rubber, which is 
driving it quick round the post, the ball is again taken 
to the center, the ground changed, and the contest re- 
newed; and this is continued until one side gains four 
times, which decides the bet. It is an interesting sight 
to see two or three hundred naked savages contending 
on the plain who shall bear off the palm of victory; as 
he who drives the ball round the goal is much shouted 
at by his companions. It sometimes happens that one 
catches the ball in his racket, and depending on his speed 
endeavors to carry it to the goal; when he finds himself 
too closely pursued he hurls it with great force and 
dexterity to an amazing distance, where there are al- 
ways flankers of both parties ready to receive it; it 
seldom touches the ground, but is sometimes kept in 
the air for hours before either party can gain the victory. 
In the game which I witnessed the Sioux were victorious 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 121 

— more, I believe, from the superiority of their skill in 
throwing the ball than by their swiftness, for I thought 
the Puants and Reynards the swiftest runners. 

'\4pril list. Was sent for by Le Feuille, and had a 
long and interesting conversation with him, in which he 
spoke of the general jealousy of his nation toward their 
chiefs; and said that although it might cause some of 
the Sioux displeasure, he did not hesitate to declare that 
he looked on Nez Corbeau as the man of most sense in 
the nation, and he beheved it would be generally accept- 
able if he was reinstated in his rank. Upon my return 
I was sent for by Red Thunder, chief of the Yanctongs, 
the most savage band of the Sioux. He was prepared 
with the most elegant pipe and robes I ever saw, and 
shortly declared, that white blood had never been 
shed in the village of the Yanctongs, even when rum 
was permitted; that Mr. Murdoch Cameron arrived 
at his village last Autumn; that he invited him to eat, 
gave him corn and a bird; that Cameron informed him 
of the prohibition of rum, and was the only person who 
afterward sold it in the village. After this I had a coun- 
cil with the Puants. Spent the evening with Mr. Wil- 
mot, one of the best informed men in the place. 

''April 22nd. Held a council with the Sioux and 
Puants, the latter of whom delivered up their medals 
and flags. Prepared to depart to-morrow." 

This council was neither so brief nor so unimportant 
as this entry in the diary might suggest. In the archives 
of the War Department Pike's speech is preserved and 
may be given here to show the wisdom and moderation. 



\ 

122 Zebulon M. Pike 

not only of the young leader, but of the government he 
represented: 

"Brothers: When I passed here last summer I re- 
quested to see you on my return. I am pleased to see 
you have listened to my words. It pleased the Great 
Spirit to open the ears of all the nations through which 
I passed, to hear and attend to the words of their father. 
Peace has been established between two of the most 
powerful nations in this quarter. 

"Notwithstanding all this, some of your nation have 
been bold enough to kill some of the white people. Not 
content with firing on the canoes descending the Ouis- 
cousing last autumn, they have killed a man on Rock 
river, when sitting peaceably in his tent. They have 
also recently murdered a young man near this place, 
without any provocation whatever. As an officer of 
the United States, it is my duty to demand the murder- 
ers; and I do now demand them. 

"Brothers: In this action I am not influenced or 
urged by any individual of this place, or the people 
generally; no more than as it is my duty to give all our 
citizens all the protection in my power. I will not de- 
ceive you. If the prisoners are delivered to me, I shall 
put them in irons, under my guards, and in all instances 
treat them as men guilty of a capital crime; on their 
arrival below, they will be tried for their lives; and if 
it be proved they have killed these people without prov- 
ocation, in all probability they will be put to death. If, 
on the contrary, it is proved that the whites were the 
aggressors, and it was only self-defence, it will be deemed 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 123 

justifiable, and they will be sent back to their na- 
tion. 

" It becomes you well to consider whether in case of re- 
fusal you are sufficiently powerful to protect these men 
against the power of the United States, which have 
always, since the treaty of 1795, treated all the savages 
as their children; but if they are obliged to march 
troops to punish the many murders committed on their 
citizens, then the innocent will suffer with the guilty. 

"My demand will be reported in candor and truth 
below; when the general will take such steps as he may 
deem proper. But I hope for the sake of your inno- 
cent women and children, you will do us and your- 
selves justice. I was directed to invite a few chiefs 
down with me to St. Louis. Many of the different 
bands are about to descend with me. I now give an 
invitation to two or three of your principal men to de- 
scend with me. Whatever are your determinations, I 
pledge the faith of a soldier for a safe conduct back to 
your nation. At present I am instructed not to act by 
force to procure those men, therefore, you will consider 
yourselves as acting without restraint, and under free 
deliberations. 

*'They replied that they thanked me for the generous 
and candid manner in which I had explained myself 
and that they would give me an answer to-morrow." 

The next day Little Thunder and Karamone, speak- 
ing for the Winnebagos, offered to take the murderers 
to St. Louis themselves. Pike insisted on a definite 
time being set and their reply was "ten days to the 
Prairie and ten days to St. Louis." Pike replied that 



124 Zebulon M. Pike 

if they failed to keep this agreement the consequences 
would be serious, and having learned that they had re- 
cently raised the British flag he insisted that they bring 
this and their medals with them and deliver them to 
their father. A further council was held with the Sioux, 
Yanktons, and northern tribes. Tonnerre Rouge per- 
tinently inquired why liquor was permitted to be sold 
on the Louisiana side of the river and not on the east- 
ern side. Pike assured them that very soon liquor would 
be prohibited on both sides of the Mississippi, and 
again invited them to go with him to St. Louis, where 
their father would make chiefs of them. The council 
ended with a speech of Karamone, who, Pike writes, 
"spoke with apparent diflSculty; assured me of the 
shame, disgrace, and distress of their nation, and that 
he would fulfill what the others had said; said that he 
sent by me the medal of his father, which he considered 
himself no longer worthy to bear — putting it around my 
neck, trembling — and begged me to intercede with the 
general in their favor, etc. 

"I assured him that the American was a generous 
nation, not confounding the innocent with the guilty; 
that when they had delivered up the three or four dogs 
who had covered them with blood, we would again 
look on them as our children; advised them to take 
courage, that, if they did well, they should be treated 
well; said that I would tell the general everything 
relative to the affair; also, their repentance, and 
determination to deliver themselves and the murder- 
ers, and that I would explain about their flags and 
medals." 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 125 

The Council ended on April 23rd. Pike bade adieu 
to his friends, and saluted by the seventeen lodges of 
the Puants, or Winnebagos, set sail for the last stage of 
his remarkable journey. Shortly after he met a barge 
and from it received a letter from "my lady," and at 
ten o'clock arrived at the house of Mr. Dubuque, v^here 
he had stopped ascending the river, and from whom 
he wished some information. From here he writes: 
"After we had boiled our victuals, I divided my men 
into four watches, and put off, wind ahead. Ob- 
served for the first time the half formed leaves on the 
trees. 

'^ April 24/A. In the morning we used our oars until 
ten o'clock, and then floated while breakfasting. At 
this time two barges, one bark and two wooded canoes 
passed us under full sail; by one of which I sent back 
a letter to Mr. Dubuque I had forgotten to deliver. 
Stopped at dark to get supper; after which, rowed under 
the windward shore, expecting we could make headway 
with four oars; but were blown on the lee shore in a 
few moments, when all hands were summoned, and we 
again with difficulty made to windward, came to, placed 
one sentry on my bow and all hands went to sleep. It 
rained, and before morning overflowed my bed in the 
bottom of the boat, having no cover or extra accommo- 
dations, as it might have retarded my voyage. The 
wind very hard ahead. 

''Apr. 2^th. Obliged to unship our mast to prevent 
its rolling overboard with the swell. Passed the first 
Reynard village at twelve o'clock; counted eighteen 



126 Zebulon M. Pike 

lodges. Stopped at the prairie in descending on the 
left, about the middle of the rapids, where there is a 
beautiful cove or harbor. There were three lodges of 
Indians here, but none of them came near us. Shortly 
after we had left this, observed a barge under sail, with 
the United States flag, which upon our being seen put to 
shore on the Big Island, about three miles above Stony 
river, where I also landed. It proved to be Capt. Many 
of the Artillerists, who was in search of some Osage 
prisoners among the Sacs and Reynards. He informed 
me that at the village of Stony Point the Indians evinced 
a strong disposition to commit hostilities; that he was 
met at the mouth of the river by an old Indian, who 
said that all the inhabitants of the village were in a state 
of intoxication, and advised him to go up alone. This 
advice, however, he had rejected. That when they ar- 
rived there they were saluted by the appellation of the 
bloody Americans who had killed such a person's father, 
such a person's mother, brother, etc. The women car- 
ried off the guns and other arms, and concealed them. 
That he then crossed the river opposite the village, 
and was followed by a number of Indians with pistols 
under their blankets. That they would listen to no 
conference whatever relating to the delivery of the 
prisoners, but demanded insolently why he wore a 
plume in his hat, declared that they looked on it as a 
mark of war, and immediately decorated themselves 
with their raven's feathers, worn only in cases of hos- 
tility. We regretted that our orders would not permit 
of our punishing the scoundrels, as by a coup de main 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 127 

we might easily have carried the village. Gave Capt. 
Many a note of introduction to Messrs. Campbell, 
Fisher, Wilmot, and Dubuque, and every information 
in my pov^er. We sat up late conversing. 

''Apr. 26th. Capt. Many and myself took break- 
fast and embarked; wind directly ahead, and a most 
tremendous swell to combat, which has existed ever 
since we left the prairie. Capt. Many under full sail. 
Descended by all the sinuosity of the shore, to avoid 
the strength of the wind and force of the waves. Indeed 
I was confident I could sail much faster up than we 
could possibly make down. Encamped on Grant's 
Prairie, where we had encamped Aug. 25th when as- 
cending. There was one Indian and family present, 
to whom I gave some corn. 

"Sunday, Apr. ijth. It cleared off during the might. 
We embarked early and came from eight or ten leagues 
above the river Iowa to the establishment at the lower 
Sac village by sundown, a distance of nearly 48 leagues. 
Here I met with Messrs. Maxwell and Blondeau; took 
the deposition of the former on the subject of the 
Indians' intoxication at this place, for they were all 
drunk. They had stolen a horse from the establish- 
ment, and offered to bring him back for Hquor, but 
laughed at them when offered a blanket and powder. 
Passed two canoes and two barges. At the establish- 
ment received two letters from Mrs. Pike. Took with 
us Corporal Eddy and the other soldier whom Capt. 
Many had left. Rowed with four oars all night. A 
citizen took passage with me. 



128 Zebulon M. Pike 

''Apr. 2^th. In the morning passed a wintering- 
ground where, from appearance, there must have been 
at least seven or eight different estabHshments. At 
twelve o'clock arrived at the French house mentioned 
in our voyage up, Aug. i6th. Here we landed our 
citizen; his name was [Blank], and he belonged to the 
settlement on Copper river. He informed me there 
were about 25 families in the settlement. 

"Stopped at some islands about ten miles above Salt 
river, where there were pigeon roosts, and in about 
15 minutes my men had knocked on the heads and 
brought on board 298. I had frequently heard of the 
fecundity of this bird, and never gave credit to what I 
then thought inclined to be marvellous; but really the 
most fervid imagination cannot conceive their numbers. 
Their noise in the wood was like the continued roaring 
of the wind, and the ground may be said to have been 
absolutely covered with their excrement. The young 
ones which we killed were nearly as large as the old; 
they could fly about ten steps, and were one mass of fat; 
their craws were filled with acorns and wild pea. They 
were still reposing on their nests, which were merely 
small bunches of sticks joined, with which all the small 
trees were covered. 

"Met four canoes of Sacs, with wicker baskets filled 
with young pigeons. They made motions to exchange 
them for liquor, to which I returned the back of my 
hand. Indeed those scoundrels had become so inso- 
lent, through the instigation of the traders, that nothing 
but the lenity of our government and humanity for the 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 129 

poor devils could have restrained me on my descent 
from carrying some of their town by surprise, which I 
was determined to have done had the information of 
their firing on Capt. Many proved to have been correct. 

"Put into the mouth of Salt river to cook supper, 
after which, although raining, we put off and set our 
watches; but so violent a gale and thunder storm came 
on about twelve o'clock that we put ashore. Discov- 
ered that one of my sleigh dogs was missing. 

*' Apr. 2gth. In the morning still raining, and wind 
up the river; hoisted sail and returned to the mouth of 
the river, but neither here nor on the shore could we 
find my dog. This was no little mortification, as it 
broke the match, whose important services I had al- 
ready experienced, after having brought them so near 
home. We continued on until twelve o'clock, when it 
ceased raining for a little time, and we put ashore for 
breakfast. Rowed till sundown, when I set the watch. 
Night fine and mild. 

"Jpr. ^oth. By daylight found ourselves at the 
Portage de Sioux. I here landed Captain Many's two 
men, and ordered them across by land to the canton- 
ment. As I had never seen the village, I walked up 
and through it; there are not more than 21 houses at 
furthest, which are built of square logs. Met Lieut. 
Hughes about four miles above St. Louis, with more 
than 20 Osage prisoners, conveying them to the can- 
tonment on the Missouri; he informed me all my 
friends were well. Arrived at about twelve o'clock at 
the town, after an absence of eight months and 22 days." 



130 Zebulon M. Pike 

Thus briefly Pike concludes his diary, but not his 
labors. From Bellefontaine, the army post above St. 
Louis, where a garrison was stationed, Pike made his 
various reports to General Wilkinson on the Mississippi, 
the fur trade of the North West and on the Indian tribes 
he had visited. The meagre diary gives no hint of the 
amount of faithful detail Pike collected during this 
voyage and the importance of these facts to the govern- 
ment. Concerning the British flags and medals which 
all along this route he insisted on the Indians giving up, 
he was now equally insistent on the government re- 
placing as he had promised. He writes: 

"My faith was pledged to the savage chiefs for the 
replacing of the medals and flags of the British govern- 
ment which they surrendered me, by others of the same 
magnitude of the United States; but owing to the 
change of agents, and a variety of circumstances, it was 
never fulfilled. This has left a number of the Sioux 
and Sauteur chiefs without their distinguishing marks 
of dignity, and has induced them to look on my con- 
duct toward them as a premeditated fraud. This 
would render my life in danger should I ever return 
amongst them, and the situation of any other ofl&cer 
who should presume to make a similar demand extreme- 
ly delicate; besides it has compromitted with those 
savage warriors the faith of our government, which to 
enable any government ever to do good, should be held 
inviolate." 

This paragraph was subsequently added because of 
the delay in sending the Indians the promised medals. 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 131 

The delay, however, was caused by the fact that the 
government did not at the time have any, and was 
subsequently remedied. In a famihar letter to his 
general Pike writes of sending him the skins of the lynx 
and "brelaw" and offers him his sleigh dogs, when he 
has secured a mate to replace the one lost. More for- 
mally he concludes the whole journey in the following 
letter, which discloses the simplicity of the soldier and 
the modesty of the man. 

"Belle Fontaine, July 2nd, 1806 
"Dear Sir: 

" I have at length finished all my reports, observations 
and journals, which arose from my late voyage to the 
source of the Mississippi, and hope they may prove 
interesting, from the information and the different sub- 
jects which they contain. 

"I perceive I differ materially from Captain Lewis 
in my account of the numbers, manners and morals 
of the Sioux. But our reception by that nation at the 
first interview being so different, it no doubt left an 
impression on our minds, which may have, unknown to 
ourselves, given a cast to our observations. I will not 
only vouch for the authenticity of my account as to 
numbers, arms, etc., from my own notes, but from 
having had them revised and corrected by a gentleman 
of liberal education, who has resided 18 years in that 
nation, speaks their language, and for some years past 
has been collecting materials for their natural and 
philosophical history. 



132 Zebulon M. Pike 

"I have not attempted to give an account of nations 
of Indians whom I did not visit, except the Assinni- 
boins, whom, from their intimate connection with the 
Sioux, in a Hneal point of view, it would have been im- 
proper to leave out of the catalogue. 

"The correctness of the geographical parts of the 
voyage I will vouch for, as I spared neither time, fatigue, 
nor danger, to see for myself every part connected with 
my immediate route. 

"As the general already knows, at the time I left St. 
Louis there were no instruments proper for celestial 
observations, excepting those which he furnished me, 
which were inadequate to taking the longitude; neither 
had I the proper tables or authors to accomplish that 
object, though it can no doubt be ascertained by various 
charts at different points of my route. Nor had I 
proper time-pieces or instruments for meteorological 
observations. Those made were from an imperfect in- 
strument which I purchased in the town of St. Louis. 

"I do not possess the qualifications of the naturalist, 
and even had they been mine, it would have been im- 
possible to gratify them to any great extent, as we passed 
with rapidity over the country we surveyed, which was 
covered with snow six months out of the nine I was 
absent. And indeed, my thoughts were too much en- 
grossed in making provision for the exigencies of the 
morrow to attempt a science which requires time, and 
a placidity of mind which seldom fell to my lot. 

"The journal in itself will have little to strike the 
imagination, being but a dull detail of our daily march, 



Leech Lake to St. Louis 133 

and containing many notes which should have come 
into the geographical part; others of observations on the 
savage character, and many that were never intended to 
be included in my official report. 

"The daily occurrences written at night, frequently 
by fire-light, when extremely fatigued, and the cold so 
severe as to freeze the ink in my pen, of course have 
little claim to elegance of expression or style; but they 
have truth to recommend them, which, if always at- 
tended to, would strip the pages of many of our journal- 
ists of their most interesting occurrences. 

"The general will please to recollect also, that I had 
scarcely returned to St. Louis before the voyage now in 
contemplation was proposed to me; and that, after 
some consideration my duty, and inclination in some 
respects, induced me to undertake it. The prepara- 
tions for my new voyage prevented the possibility of 
my paying that attention to the correction of my errors 
that I should otherwise have done. This, with the 
foregoing reasons, will, I hope, be deemed a sufficient 
apology for the numerous errors, tautologies, and ego- 
tisms which will appear. 

"I am, dear General, 
"With great respect, 

"Your obedient servant, 
[Signed] "Z. M. Pike, 

"Lt. 1st Regt. Infty. 

"General James Wilkinson." 



CHAPTER IV 

THE ARKANSAS JOURNEY 
July 15TH-SEPT. 30TH, 1806. 

Pike had only been at the cantonment at Bellefon- 
taine two weeks when he was called upon by his com- 
mander-in-chief to head a second expedition, now 
toward the South-west. Before, indeed, he had reached 
the post. General Wilkinson had addressed him the 
following letter. This is given entire in order to show 
how numerous and exacting were the demands on the 
young officer. From these we may also infer how sat- 
isfactory to the commander-in-chief had been his con- 
duct of the first expedition. 

"St. Louis, June 2\thy 1806. 

"Sir: You are to proceed without delay to the can- 
tonment on the Missouri [at Belle Fontaine], where 
you are to embark the late Osage captives and the depu- 
tation recently returned from Washington, with their 
presents and baggage, and are to transport the whole 
up the Missouri and Osage rivers to the town of the 
Grand Osage. 

"The safe delivery of this charge at the point of des- 
tination constitutes the primary object of your expe- 
dition; therefore you are to move with such caution as 
may prevent surprise from any hostile band, and are to 

134 



The Arkansas Journey 135 

repel with your utmost force any outrage which may be 
attempted. 

"Having safely deposited your passengers and their 
property, you are to turn your attention to the accom- 
pHshment of a permanent peace between the Kanses 
and Osage nations; for which purpose you must effect 
a meeting between the head chiefs of those nations, 
and are to employ such arguments, deduced from their 
own obvious interests, as well as the inclinations, de- 
sires, and commands of the president of the United 
States, as may facilitate your purpose and accomplish 
the end. 

"A third object of considerable magnitude will then 
claim your consideration. It is to effect an interview 
and establish a good understanding with the Yanctons, 
Tetaus, or Camanches. 

"For this purpose you must interest White Hair, of 
the Grand Osage, with whom and a suitable deputation 
you will visit the Panis republic, where you may find 
interpreters, and inform yourself of the most feasible 
plan by which to bring the Camanches to a conference. 
Should you succeed in this attempt — and no pains must 
be spared to effect it — you will endeavor to make peace 
between that distant powerful nation and the nations 
which inhabit the country between us and them, par- 
ticularly the Osage; finally, you will endeavor to induce 
eight or ten of their distinguished chiefs to make a visit 
to the seat of government next September, and you may 
attach to this deputation four or five Panis and the same 
number of Kanses chiefs. 

"As your interview with the Camanches will probably 



136 Zebulon M. Pike 

lead you to the head branches of the Arkansaw and Red 
rivers, you may find yourself approximated to the settle- 
ments of New Mexico. There it will be necessary you 
should move with great circumspection, to keep clear 
of any hunting or reconnoitering parties from that 
province, and to prevent alarm or offense; because the 
affairs of Spain and the United States appear to be on 
the point of amicable adjustment, and moreover it is the 
desire of the president to cultivate the friendship and 
harmonious intercourse of all the nations of the earth, 
particularly our near neighbors the Spaniards. 

"In the course of your tour, you are to remark par- 
ticularly upon the geographical structure, the natural 
history, and population of the country through which 
you may pass, taking particular care to collect and 
preserve specimens of everything curious in the mineral 
or botanical worlds, which can be preserved and are 
portable. Let your courses be regulated by your com- 
pass, and your distances by your watch to be noted in 
your field book; and I would advise you, when circum- 
stances permit, to protract and lay down in a separate 
book the march of the day at every evening's halt. 

"The instruments which I have furnished you will 
enable you to ascertain the variations of the magnetic 
needle and the latitude; and at every remarkable point 
I wish you to employ your telescope in observing the 
ecHpses of Jupiter's satellites, having regulated and ad- 
justed your watch by your quadrant, taking care to note 
with great nicety the periods of immersions and emer- 
sions of the ecHpsed satellites. These observations may 
enable us, after your return, by appHcation to the appro- 



The Arkansas Journey 137 

priate tables, which I cannot now furnish you, to as- 
certain the longitude. 

"It is an object of much interest with the executive 
to ascertain the direction, extent, and navigation of the 
Arkansaw and Red rivers; as far, therefore, as may 
be compatible with these instructions and practicable 
to the means you may command, I wish you to carry 
your views to those subjects; and should circumstances 
conspire to favor the enterprise, that you may detach a 
party with a few Osage to descend the Arkansaw under 
the orders of Lieutenant Wilkinson, or Sergeant Ballin- 
ger, properly instructed and equipped to take the courses 
and distances, to remark on the soil, timber, etc., and to 
note the tributary streams. This party will, after reach- 
ing our post on the Arkansaw, descend to Fort Adams 
and there await further orders; and you yourself may 
descend the Red river, accompanied by a party of the 
most respectable Camanches, to the post of Nachitoches, 
and there receive further orders. 

"To disburse your necessary expenses and to aid 
your negotiations, you are herewith furnished six hun- 
dred dollars' worth of goods, for the appropriation of 
which you are to render a strict account, vouched by 
documents to be attested by one of your party. 

"Wishing you a safe and successful expedition, 
"I am, Sir, 

"With much respect and esteem, 
"Your obedient servant, 

[Signed] "James Wilkinson. 

"Lieutenant Z. M. Pike." 



138 Zebulon M. Pike 

With no further preHminaries the party started up the 
Missouri river, a turbulent, dangerous stream. Accom- 
panying Pike were Lieutenant James B. Wilkinson, a 
nephew of the General-in-chief, Dr. John H, Robinson, 
who volunteered as surgeon of the expedition, an inter- 
preter, "Baroney" Vasquez, three non-commissioned 
officers, Ballinger, Meek, and Johnson, and the privates 
of the Mississippi exploring expedition, including the 
worthless Kennerman, who shortly deserted. With his 
accustomed brevity the leader notes the start of the 
party into this unknown country on a journey which 
lacked only a fortnight to complete a year of peril and 
extreme suffering. 

"Tuesday, July 15th, 1806. We sailed from the 
landing at Belle Fontaine about 3 o'clock P. M., in two 
boats. Our party consisted of two lieutenants, one 
surgeon, one sergeant two corporals, 16 privates and 
one interpreter. We had also under our charge chiefs 
of the Osage and Pawnees, who, with a number of 
women and children, had been to Washington. These 
Indians had been redeemed from captivity among the 
Potowatomies, and were now to be returned to their 
friends at the Osage towns. The whole number of 
Indians amounted to 51. 

"We ascended the river about six miles, and en- 
camped on the South side behind an island. This day 
my boat swung around twice; once when we had a 
tow-rope on shore, which it snapped off in an instant. 
The Indians did not encamp with us at night. Dis- 
tance six miles. 



The Arkansas Journey 139 

"July i6th. We rejoined our red brethren at break- 
fast, after which we again separated, and with very 
severe labor arrived late in the evening opposite the 
village of St. Charles, where the Indians joined us. 
Distance 15 miles. 

"July Jjth. We crossed the river to learn if any 
communications had arrived from St. Louis, and if there 
was any news of other Indian enemies of the Osages. 
Called at Mr. James Morrison's, and was introduced 
to Mr. Henry, of New Jersey, about 28 years of age; 
he spoke a little Spanish and French tolerably well; 
he wished to go with me as a volunteer. From this place 
I wrote letters back to Belle Fontaine, whilst the Indians 
were crossing the river. A man by the name of Ramsay 
reported to the Indians that 500 Sacs, loways, Rey- 
nards were at the mouth of Big Manitou. This gave 
them some uneasiness, and it took me some time to do 
away the impression made upon them, for I by no 
means believed it. We were about sailing when my 
interpreter was arrested at the suit of Manuel de Liza 
for a debt of between ^300 and ^400, and was obliged 
to return to St. Louis. This made it necessary for me 
to write another letter to the General. We encamped 
about three-fourths of a mile above the village. 

"July iSth. Lieutenant Wilkinson and Dr. Robin- 
son went with the Indians across the country to the 
village of La Charette. Mr. George Henry engaged, 
under oath, to accompany me on my tour. Wrote to 
the general and inclosed him one of Henry's engage- 
ments. After we had made our little arrangements we 



I40 Zebulon M. Pike 

marched by land and joined the boats, which had sailed 
early [in charge of Sergeant Ballinger], at twelve o'clock. 
Two of the men being sick, I steered one boat and Mr. 
Henry the other, by which means we were enabled to 
keep employed our full complement of oars, although we 
put the sick men on shore. Encamped on the north 
side. About eleven at night a tremendous thunder- 
storm arose, and it continued to blow and rain, with 
thunder and lightning, until day. Distance 15 miles. 

^^ July igth. In consequence of the rain we did not 
put off until past nine o'clock ; my sick men marched. I 
had some reason to suspect that one of them intended 
never to join us again. At dinner time the sick man of 
my own boat came on board; I then went on board the 
other, and we continued to run races all day. Although 
this boat had hitherto kept behind, yet I arrived at the 
encamping ground with her nearly half an hour before 
the other. The current not generally so strong as 
below. 

*' Sunday, July 20th. Embarked about sunrise. 
Wishing to ascertain the temperature of the water, I 
discovered my large thermometer to be' missing, which 
probably had fallen into the river. Passed one settle- 
ment on the north side, and, after turning the point to 
the south, saw two more houses on the south side. We 
encamped in a long reach which bore north and west. 
The absentees had not yet joined us. Distance 15 
miles. 

"July 2ist. It commenced raining near day, and 
continued until four o'clock in the afternoon; the rain 




■- u 






The Arkansas Journey 141 

was immensely heavy, with thunder and hghtning re- 
markably severe. This obliged me to lie by; for, if 
we proceeded with our boats, it necessarily exposed our 
baggage much more than when at rest, as the tarpauHn 
could then cover all. We set sail at a quarter past 
four o'clock, and arrived at the village of La Charette at 
a little after the dusk of the evening. Here we found 
Lieut. Wilkinson and Dr. Robinson with the Indians; 
also Baroney, our interpreter, with letters from the 
general and our friends. The weather still continued 
cloudy with rain. We were received in the house of 
Dr. Chartron, and every accommodation in his power 
was offered to us. Distance six miles." 

At La Charette the party halted several days In order 
to dry their baggage and corn. Pike took occasion 
here to write back to his general, from which we learn 
that the baggage of the Indians containing the presents 
they had brought with them from Washington had been 
unduly detained and he questions if "many white men 
would have borne their loss with more philosophy than 
our young savages." Meanwhile, as a recompense he 
gave to one a gun and a soldier's coat to each of the 
others. He also advises the general of Kennerman's 
desertion and urges that he be advertised for and when 
caught tried. Referring to possible trouble when he 
comes near the Spanish possessions, where the bound- 
aries were not definitely determined he writes with 
youthful enthusiasm, for which he begs pardon of his 
commander. 

"However, unless they give us ample assurances of 



142 Zebulon M. Pike 

just and honorable treatment, according to the custom 
of nations in like cases, I would resist, even if the ine- 
quahty was as great as at the affair of Bender, or the 
streights of Thermopylae. 

''July iT^d. I dispatched an express to the general, 
with advertisements relative to Kennerman, the soldier 
who had deserted. We embarked after breakfast, and 
made good progress. Lieutenant Wilkinson steered 
one boat and I the other, in order to detach all the men 
on shore, with the Indians, that we could spare. We 
crossed to the south side, a little below Shepherd river. 
Dr. Robinson killed a deer, which was the first killed by 
the party. Distance 13 miles. 

''July 2^th. We embarked at half past six o'clock. 
Very foggy. The Indians accompanied by only three 
of my people. Lieutenant Wilkinson being a little in- 
disposed, I was obliged to let Baroney steer his boat. 
We made an excellent day's journey and encamped 
five miles from the Gasconade river. Killed three deer, 
one bear, and three turkeys. But three or four of the 
Indians arrived; the others encamped a small distance 
below, 

"July 2^th. We embarked at half past six o'clock, 
and arrived at the mouth of the Gasconade river at 
half past eight o'clock, at which place I determined to 
remain the day, as my Indians and foot people were still 
in the rear, and they had complained to me of being 
without shoes, leggings, etc. Distance five miles. 

"One of our Pawnees did not arrive until late; the 
other had communicated his suspicions to me that the 



The Arkansas Journey 143 

Oto, who was in company, had killed him: he acknowl- 
edged that he proposed to take out their baggage and 
return to St. Louis. The real occasion of his absence, 
however, was his having followed a large fresh trace up 
the Gasconade a considerable distance; but finding it led 
from the Missouri he examined it and discovered horses 
to have been on it; he then left it and joined ours, and 
came in. This being the route generally taken by the 
Pottawatomies, when they go to war against the Osage, 
it occasioned some alarm. Every morning we were 
awakened by the mourning of the savages, who com- 
menced crying about daylight, and continued for the 
space of an hour. I made inquiry of my interpreter 
with respect to this, who informed me that this was a 
custom not only with those who had recently lost their 
relatives, but also with others who recalled to mind the 
loss of some friend, dead long since, and joined the 
other mourners purely from sympathy. They appeared 
extremely affected; tears ran down their cheeks, and 
they sobbed bitterly; but in a moment they dry their 
cheeks and cease their cries. Their songs of grief gen- 
erally run thus : ' My dear father exists no longer; have 
pity on me, O Great Spirit! you see I cry forever; dry 
my tears and give me comfort.' The warriors' songs 
are thus: 'Our enemies have slain my father (or 
mother); he is lost to me and his family; I pray to you, 
O Master of Life! to preserve me until I avenge his 
death, and then do with me as thou pleaseth.' 

'^ July 26th. We commenced at five o'clock to ferry 
the Indians over the Gasconade, and left the entrance 



144 Zebulon M. Pike 

of this river at half past six o'clock in the afternoon. 
Met five Frenchmen, who informed us that they had 
just left the Osage river, and that it W3.s so low they 
could not ascend it with their canoe. We wrote letters 
and sent them back by them. Dr. Robinson, Baroney, 
Sparks, and all the Indians encamped about one league 
above us. Killed one bear, two deer, one otter, three 
turkeys, and one raccoon. 

** Sunday, July 2Jth. We embarked at half past five 
o'clock and arrived at the Indians' camp at seven o'clock. 
They had been alarmed the day before, and in the 
evening sent men back in the trace, and some of the 
chiefs sat up all night. Breakfasted with them. About 
three o'clock encamped in sight of the Osage river. 
There being every appearance of rain, we halted early 
in order to give the Indians time to prepare temporary 
camps, and to secure our baggage. I went out to hunt, 
and firing at a deer, near two of the Indians who were 
in the wood, they knew the difference of the report of 
my rifle from their guns, and were alarmed, and im- 
mediately retired to camp, 

''July iSth. Embarked at half past five o'clock, and 
at half past ten arrived at the Osage river, where we 
stopped, discharged our guns, bathed, etc. We then 
proceeded on about six miles, where we waited for and 
crossed the Indians to the west shore; we then proceeded 
on to the first island, and encamped on the west side. 
Sans Oreille and only four or five young men coming 
up, the rest encamping some distance behind. Killed 
one deer and one turkey. Distance 19 miles. 



The Arkansas Journey 145 

"July igth. All the Indians arrived very early. 
Big Soldier, whom I had appointed the officer to regu- 
late the march, was much displeased that Sans Oreille 
and the others had left him, and said for that reason he 
would not suffer any woman to go in the boat and by 
that means separate the party; but in truth it was from 
jealousy of the men whose women went in the boats. 
He began by flogging one of the young men and was 
about to strike Sans Oreille's wife, but was stopped by 
him and told that he knew he had done wrong, but that 
the women were innocent. We then crossed them and 
embarked at half past eight o'clock. About twelve 
o'clock we found the Indians rafting the river, when the 
first chief of the Little Osage, called Tuttasuggy, or 
Wind, told me that the man whom Big Soldier struck 
had not yet arrived with his wife, 'but that he would 
throw them away.' As I knew he was extremely mor- 
tified at the dissensions which appeared to reign amongst 
them, I told him by no means [to do so]; that one of my 
boats should wait for the woman and her child, but that 
the man might go to the devil, as a punishment for his 
insubordination. 

"I then left Baroney with one boat, and proceeded 
with the other. We were called ashore by three young 
Indians, who had killed some deer; and, on putting 
them on board, gave them about one or two gills of 
whisky, which intoxicated all of them. It commenced 
raining about one o'clock, and continued incessantly 
for three hours, which obliged us to stop and encamp. 
One of our men, Miller, lost himself, and did not arrive 



146 Zebulon M. Pike 

until after dark. Killed five deer, one turkey, and one 
raccoon. Distance 14 miles. 

"July 30/A. After the fog dispersed I left Lieuten- 
ant Wilkinson with the party to dry the baggage, and 
went with Dr. Robinson and Bradley. About two 
o'clock we returned, set sail, and having passed the first 
rapid about three miles, encamped on the eastern shore. 
Killed three deer. Distance five miles. 

"July 3 1 J-/. We embarked early and passed several 
rapids very well. Dined with the Indians. Two of 
them left us in the morning for the village, and they all 
had an idea of doing the same, but finally concluded 
otherwise. One of the Osages, who had left the party 
for the village, returned and reported that he had seen 
and heard strange Indians in the woods. This we con- 
sidered merely a pretext to come back. I this day lost 
my dog, and the misfortune was the greater, as we had 
no other dog which would bring anything out of the 
water. This was the dog Fisher had presented to me at 
Prairie des Cheins. Killed three deer and one turkey. 
Distance 18 miles. 

"Aug. 1st. It rained all night, the river appeared 
to have risen about six inches. We spread out our 
baggage to dry, but it continuing to rain all day, the 
things were wetter at sundown than in the morning. 
We rolled them up and left them on the beach. We 
sent out two hunters in the morning, one of whom 
killed three deer; all the Indians killed three more. 

" Sunday y Aug. 3^. Embarked early, and wishing 
to save the fresh, I pushed hard all day. Sparks was 



The Arkansas Journey 147 

lost, and did not arrive until night. We encamped 
about 25 paces from the river, on a sand-bar. Near 
day I heard the sentry observe that the boats had better 
be brought in; I got up and found the water within a 
rod of our tent, and before we could get all our things 
out it had reached the tent. Killed nine deer, one wild- 
cat, one goose, and one turkey. Distance 18 miles. 

''Aug. 4.th. We embarked early and continued on 
for some time, not being able to find a suitable place 
to dry our things, but at length stopped on the east 
shore. Here we had to ferry the Indians over a small 
channel which we did not before observe; all of them, 
however, not arriving, we put oflF and continued our 
route. Finding our progress much impeded by our 
mast, I unshipped it and stripped it of its iron, and, 
after Lieutenant Wilkinson had carved our names on 
it, set it adrift, followed by the yards. This mast had 
been cut and made at [our wintering post on] Pine 
creek. Upper Mississippi. After proceeding some miles, 
we found the Indians on the west shore, they having 
rafted the river. We stopped for them to cook, after 
which we proceeded. The navigation had become very 
difficult from the rapidity of the current, occasioned by 
the rise of the water, which rose one foot an hour. 
Killed two deer. Rainy. Distance 10 miles. 

'^ Aug. ^th. We lay by this day, in order to give the 
Indians an opportunity to dry their baggage. Dr. 
Robinson and myself, accompanied by Mr. Henry, 
went out to hunt. After hunting some time, we lost 
the latter, two miles from camp. After hunting some 



148 Zebulon M. Pike 

time on the west shore, we concluded to raft the river, 
which we effected with difficuky and danger, and 
hunted for some time, but without success. We then re- 
turned to the party and found that Mr. Henry, who had 
been lost returned one hour before us; he had met one 
of the soldiers, who had brought him in. 

"To-day in our tour I passed over a remarkably 
large rattlesnake, as he lay curled up, and trod so near 
him as to touch him with my foot, he drawing himself 
up to make room for my heel. Dr. Robinson who 
followed me, was on the point of treading on him, but 
by a spring avoided it. I then turned round and 
touched him with my ramrod, but he showed no dis- 
position to bite, and appeared quite peaceable. The 
gratitude I felt toward him for not having bitten me 
induced me to save his life. Killed four deer. River 
rises 13 inches. Rain continuous." 

Being advised by the Indians that the marching 
party could make a short cut from river to river Pike 
consented and accompanied by the doctor, Henry and 
Ballinger they set off. Not being delayed by the Indians 
the boat party made good speed, and Pike employed 
himself in the intervals of charting the river, in turning 
the speech of General Wilkinson which was to be made 
to Cheveux Blancs into French for the benefit of the 
interpreter. They were now coming into the region of 
beautiful scenery, and Pike notes the fine cliffs of the 
river. The second day after the boat came up with the 
land party which had killed seven deer and three bears. 
After dining with the Indians the entire party moved on, 



The Arkansas Journey 149 

leaving Sparks who had not returned from hunting. 
The next morning Sans Oreille and his wife caught up 
with the boat and reported Sparks with the Indians. 
The rain was still merciless, and in the meantime a 
plank in the bottom of the boat having split the river 
party had to stop for repairs. Later Pike caught up 
with the Indians and the whole company camped on a 
sand bar. 

''Aug. nth. We continued here to dry our corn and 
baggage. This morning we had a match at shooting. 
The prize offered to the successful person was a jacket 
and a twist of tobacco, which I myself was so fortunate 
as to win; I made the articles, however, a present to 
the young fellow who waited on me. After this, taking 
Huddleston with me, I went out to hunt; after travel- 
ing about 12 miles we arrived at the river, almost ex- 
hausted with thirst. I here indulged myself by drink- 
ing plentifully of the water, and was rendered so 
extremely unwell by it that I was scarcely capable of 
pursuing my route to the camp. On arriving opposite 
it, I swam the river, from which I experienced consider- 
able relief. The party informed me they had found the 
heat very oppressive, and the mercury, at sundown, 
was at 25° Reaumer. This day, for the first time, I saw 
trout west of the Allegheny mountains. Reloaded our 
boats and finished two new oars, which were requisite. 

"Aug. I2th. Previously to our embarkation, which 
took place at half past five o'clock, I was obliged to 
convince my red brethren that, if I protected them, I 
would not suffer them to plunder my men with impunity; 



150 Zebulon M. Pike 

for the chief had got one of my lad's tin cups attached to 
his baggage, and, notwithstanding it was marked with 
the initials of the soldier's name, he refused to give it 
up. On which I requested the interpreter to tell him, 
"that I had no idea that he had purloined the cup, but 
supposed some other person had attached it to his 
baggage; but, that knowing it to be my soldier's I re- 
quested him to deliver it up, or I should be obliged to 
take other measures to obtain it. This had the desired 
effect for I should have certainly put my threats into 
execution, from this principle, formed from my ex- 
perience during my intercourse with the Indians, that 
if you have justice on your side, and do not enforce it, 
they usually despise you. When we stopped for dinner, 
one of my men took his gun and went out; not having 
returned when we were ready to re-embark, I left him. 
Passed the Indians twice when we were crossing the 
river. Passed some very beautiful cliffs on the W. 
shore; also Vermillion and Grand rivers, the latter of 
which is a large stream, and encamped at the first bend 
above it on the E. or left hand bank of the Osage. Dis- 
tance 24 miles. 

** Immediately after our encampment a thunder storm 
came on, which blew overboard my flag-staff and a 
number of articles of my clothing, which were on top of 
the cabin, and sunk them immediately. Being much 
fatigued and the bank difficult of ascent, lay down in 
the cabin without supper and slept all night. It con- 
tinued to rain. The man I left on shore arrived on the 
opposite bank in the night, having killed two deer, but 



The Arkansas Journey 151 

was obliged to leave the largest behind. Finding he 
was not to be sent for, he concealed his gun and deer, 
and swam the river. 

''Aug. iph. It continued to rain. In the morning 
sent a boat over for Sparks' gun and deer. Embarked 
at half past nine o'clock. Stopped to dine at two 
o'clock. During the time we halted, the river rose over 
the flat bar on which we were; this, if we had no other 
proof, would convince us we were near the head of the 
river, as the rain must have reached it. We made almost 
a perfect circle, so that I do not believe we were to-night 
three miles from where we encamped last night. This 
day, for the first time, we have prairie hills. Distance 
13 miles. 

''Aug. i\th. Embarked at half past five o'clock. 
Passed the Park, which is 10 miles around, and not 
more than three-quarters of a mile across, bearing from 
S. 5° E. to due N. At its head we breakfasted, and just 
as we were about to put off we saw and brought-to a 
canoe manned with three engagees of Mr. Chouteau, 
who informed us that the little Osage had marched a 
party against the Kansas, and the Grand Osage, a party 
against our citizens on the Arkansaw river. Wrote by 
them to the general and all friends. Gave the poor fel- 
lows some whiskey and eight quarts of corn, they hav- 
ing had only two turkeys in four days. We left them 
and proceeded, passing on the east some of the largest 
cedars I ever saw. Came on very well in the afternoon 
and encamped on an island above Turkey island. Dis- 
tance 28 miles. 



152 Zebulon M. Pike 

"Aug. i^th. We embarked about five o'clock, and 
at eight o'clock met the Indians and the gentlemen who 
accompanied them. Found all well. They had been 
joined by their friends and relatives from the village 
with horses to transport their baggage. Lieutenant 
Wilkinson informed me that their meeting was very 
tender and affectionate — "wives throwing themselves 
into the arms of their husbands, parents embracing their 
children, and children their parents, brothers and 
sisters meeting, one from captivity, the others from 
the towns; they at the same time returning thanks to 
the Good God for having brought them once more to- 
gether" — in short, the tout ensemble was such as to 
make polished society blush, when compared with those 
savages, in whom the passions of the mind, whether 
joy, grief, fear, anger, or revenge, have their full scope. 
Why can we not correct the baneful passions, without 
weakening the good } Sans Oreille made them a speech, 
in which he remarked : * Osage, you now see your wives, 
your brothers, your daughters, your sons, redeemed 
from captivity. Who did this .? Was it the Spaniards .? 
No. The French .? No. Had either of those people 
been governors of the country, your relatives might 
have rotted in captivity, and you never would have seen 
them; but the Americans stretched forth their hands, 
and they are returned to you! What can you do in re- 
turn for all this goodness .? Nothing; all your lives 
would not suffice to repay their goodness.' This man 
had children in captivity, not one of whom we were 
able to obtain for him. 



The Arkansas Journey 153 

"The chief then requested that Lieutenant Wilkinson 
and Dr. Robinson might be permitted to accompany 
them by land, to which I consented. Wrote a letter 
to Cheveux Blancs, by Lieutenant Wilkinson. When 
we parted, after delivering the Indians their baggage, 
Sans Oreille put an Indian on board to hunt, or obey 
any other commands I might have for him. We 
stopped at eleven o'clock to dry our baggage. Found 
our biscuit and crackers almost all ruined. Put off at 
half past four o'clock, and encamped at three-quarters 
past five o'clock. Distance 15^ miles. 

''Aug. i6th. We embarked at five o'clock and came 
on extremely well in the barge to an evacuated French 
hunting camp 12 miles to breakfast, the batteaux com- 
ing up late. We exchanged hands. About twelve 
o'clock we passed the Grand Fork, which is equal in 
size to the one on which we pursued our route. We 
waited to dine at the rocks called the Swallow's Nest, 
on the W. shore, above the forks. The batteaux hav- 
ing gained nearly a half an hour, the crews are con- 
vinced that it is not the boat but the men that make 
the difference; each take their own boat, after which we 
proceeded very well, the water being good and the men 
in spirits. Saw an elk on the shore; also met an old 
man alone hunting, from whom we obtained no infor- 
mation of consequence. Encamped on the W. shore 
of the Mine river. Distance 37 miles. 

"We to-day passed the place where the chief called 
Belle Oiseau, and others, were killed. The Belle 
Oiseau was killed by the Sacs in the year 1804, in a 



154 Zebulon M. Pike 

boat of Manuel de Liza, when on his way down to St. 
Louis, in order to join the first deputation of his nation 
who were forwarded to the seat of government by Gov- 
ernor Lewis. A particular relation of the event, no 
doubt, has been given by that gentleman. This chief 
had a son who accompanied me to the Pawnee nation, 
and whose honorable deportment, attachment to our 
government, amiableness of disposition, and the re- 
spect and esteem in which he was held by his compeers, 
entitle him to the attention of our agents to his nation. 

"Sunday, Aug. ijth. We embarked at five o'clock 
and came 12 miles to breakfast. At four o'clock ar- 
rived at 10 French houses on the E. shore, where was 
then residing a Sac, who was married to an Osage 
femme and spoke French only. We afterward passed 
the position where Mr. Chouteau formerly had his fort 
not a vestige of which was remaining, the spot being 
only marked by the superior growth of vegetation. 
Here the river bank is one solid bed of stone-coal, just 
below which is a very shoal and rapid ripple, whence to 
the village of the Grand Osage is nine miles across a 
large prairie. We came about two miles above and 
encamped on the W. shore. This day the river has 
been generally bounded by prairies on both sides. 
Distance 41^ miles. 

'^ Aug. iSth. We put off" at half past five o'clock. 
Stopped at nine o'clock for breakfast. Passed the 
second fork of the river at twelve o'clock, the right- 
hand fork bearing N., about 30 yards wide; the left, 
the one which we pursued, and not more than 50 or 60 



The Arkansas Journey 155 

feet in width, very full of old trees, etc., but with plenty 
of water. Observed the road where the chiefs and 
Lieutenant Wilkinson crossed. We proceeded until 
one o'clock, when we were halted by a large drift quite 
across the river. Dispatched Baroney to the village 
of the Grand Osage, to procure horses to take our bag- 
gage nearer to the towns, and unloaded our boats. 
In about two hours Lieutenant Wilkinson, with Tut- 
tasuggy, arrived at our camp, the former of whom pre- 
sented me an express from the general and letters from 
my friends. The chiefs remained at our camp all night. 
T was attacked by a violent headache. It commenced 
raining, and continued with great force until day. Dis- 
tance 19I miles." 

This letter from General Wilkinson is of more im- 
portance than the diary intimates. He was at St. Louis 
and fully advised of the details of the march. The 
Osages were under the protection of the government, 
and he urges against the threats of the Pottawatomies 
that a chain of scouts be posted along the Missouri, 
although he doubts an attack will be made until the 
"falling of the leaves," expressing himself Indian fash- 
ion. As for Pike himself, while showing the paternal 
regard of the government for the Osage nations, he 
must avoid conflict with the other tribes. Concerning 
Manuel de Liza, who will be recalled as arresting the 
interpreter on a pretext at the beginning of the ex- 
pedition, the general learns he is planning to establish 
clandestine commerce with the Spanish at Santa Fe. 
His scheme was to deposit his goods within a few days' 



156 Zebulon M. Pike 

march of Santa Fe, then personally visit the Spanish 
governor and tell him how he has suffered by the change 
in authority and by exciting his compassion dispose 
of the goods. Pike was charged "to take all prudent 
and lawful means to blow it up" — that is to say, de 
Liza's schemes. Pike had his own affair with de Liza, 
whom he found exciting the Osages to attack the Kan- 
sas villages. Indeed, we are to hear much of de Liza, 
among the first of intriguing Indian traders. 

Still more important, in view of the future develop- 
ments revealed in the conspiracy of Aaron Burr, and 
in which Wilkinson is so deeply involved, is the follow- 
ing paragraph from the letter concerning Pike's own 
conduct: 

"In regard to your approximation to the Spanish set- 
tlements, should your route lead you near them, or 
should you fall in with any of their parties, your con- 
duct must be marked by such discretion and circum- 
spection as may prevent alarm or conflict, as you will 
be held responsible for the consequences." Later he 
adds: "Should fortune favor you on your present ex- 
cursion, your importance to your country will, I think, 
make your future life comfortable." The letter con- 
cludes with the latest European news concerning the 
failure of Napoleon's plans in the West Indies, and, 
what must have been more eagerly received by the ex- 
plorer, news from his family. Pike was now to remain 
some days among the Osages, having to represent the 
commander-in-chief in his diplomatic dealings with 
Chief White Hair. In his later report Pike gives the 



The Arkansas Journey 157 

following attractive account of the country and these 
villages: 

"The country round the Osage villages is one of the 
most beautiful the eye ever beheld. The three branches 
of the river, viz. : the large east fork, the middle one, up 
which we ascended, and the northern one, all winding 
round and past the villages, giving the advantages of 
wood and water, and at the same time the extensive 
prairies crowned with rich and luxuriant grass and 
flowers, gently diversified by the rising swells and sloping 
lawns, present to the warm imagination the future seats 
of husbandry, the numerous herds of domestic animals, 
which are no doubt destined to crown with joy those 
happy plains." 

This happy prophecy has been, as we all know, long 
since fulfilled. 

"Aug. igth. We commenced early to arrange our 
baggage but had not finished at one o'clock, when the 
chief of the Grand Osage, and 40 or 50 men of his 
village, arrived with horses. We loaded and took our 
departure for the place where Manuel de Liza had his 
establishment, at which we arrived about four o'clock, 
and commenced pitching our encampment near the 
edge of the prairie, when I was informed that three 
men had arrived from St. Louis sent by Manuel de 
Liza. I dispatched Lieutenant Wilkinson to the village 
with Baroney, who brought to camp the man who had 
charge of the others from St. Louis; he having no pass- 
port, I detained him until further consideration. Our 
reception by the Osage was flattering, and particularly 



158 Zebulon M. Pike 

by White Hair and our fellow-travelers. This evening 
there arrived in the village of the Grand Osage an ex- 
press from the Arkansaw, who brought the news that a 
boat, ascending that river, had been fired on, had two 
white men killed and two wounded, and that the 
brother-in-law of Cheveux Blancs, who happened to 
be on board, was also killed. This put the whole vil- 
lage in mourning. 

"Aug. 20th. About twelve o'clock I dispatched 
Baroney for the chiefs of the Grand village, in order to 
give the general's parole to Cheveux Blancs; also, a 
young man to the village of the Little Osage. Cheveux 
Blancs and his people arrived about three o'clock, and 
after waiting some time for Wind and his people, I just 
informed the chiefs that I had merely assembled them 
to deliver the parole of the general and present the 
marks of distinction intended for Cheveux Blancs and 
his son — hanging a grand medal round the neck of the 
latter. The packets committed to my charge for the 
relations of the deceased Osages were then delivered to 
them, the widow making the distribution. It must 
be remarked that I had merely requested Cheveux 
Blancs to come with his son, and receive the general's 
message; but instead of coming with a few chiefs, he 
was accompanied by 186 men, to all of whom we were 
obliged to give something to drink. When the council 
was over we mounted our horses, rode to the village, 
and halted at the quarters of the chief, where we were 
regaled with boiled pumpkins; then we went to two 
different houses, and were invited to many others, 



The Arkansas Journey 159 

but declined, promising that I would pay them a visit 
previous to my departure, and spend the whole day. 
We then returned to camp. After inquiring of White 
Hair if the men of Manuel de Liza had any ostensible 
object, he informed me that they only said to him that 
they expected Manuel would be up to trade in the 
autumn. I concluded to take the deposition of Baptiste 
Larme as to the manner in which he was employed by 
Manuel de Liza, forward the same to Dr. Brown and 
the Attorney General of Louisiana, and permit the men 
to return to St. Louis, as it was impossible for me to 
detach a party with them as prisoners. 

^^Aug. 2ist. In the morning White Hair paid us a 
visit, and brought us a present of corn, meat and grease; 
we invited him, his son, and son-in-law to breakfast 
with us, and gave his companions something to eat. 
I then wrote a number of letters to send by express, 
and inclosed the deposition of Larme. In the afternoon 
we rode to the village of the Little Osage, and were re- 
ceived by our fellow-travelers with true hospitality. 
Returned in the evening, when a tremendous storm of 
rain, thunder, and lightning commenced, and continued 
with extraordinary violence until half past nine o'clock. 
It was with great difficulty we were enabled to keep our 
tents from blowing down. The place prepared for an 
observatory was carried away. 

''Aug. 22d. Preparing in the morning for the coun- 
cil, and committing to paper the heads of the subject 
on which I intended to speak. The chiefs of the Little 
Osage arrived about one o'clock, also the interpreter of 



i6o Zebulon M. Pike 

the Grand Osage, who pretended to say that the Grand 
Osage had expected us at their village with the Little 
Osage. Cheveux Blancs arrived with his chiefs. The 
ceremony of the council being arranged, I delivered 
them the general's parole, forwarded by express. My 
reason for not delivering it until this time was in order 
to have the two villages together, as it was equally in- 
teresting to both. After this I explained at large the 
will, wishes, and advice of their Great Father, and the 
mode which I conceived most applicable to carry them 
into effect. Cheveux Blancs replied in a few words, 
and promised to give me a full reply to-morrow. Wind 
replied to the same amount; after which Cheveux 
Blancs addressed himself to Wind as follows: T am 
shocked at your conduct, Tuttasuggy — you who have 
lately come from the States, and should have been wise; 
but you led the redeemed captives, with an officer of 
the United States, to your village, instead of bringing 
them through my town in the first instance.' To this 
Wind made no reply, but left his seat shortly after, 
under pretense of giving some orders to his young men. 
I conceived this reprimand intended barely to show us 
the superiority of the one and inferiority of the other; 
it originated, in my opinion, from an altercation of 
Lieutenant Wilkinson and Cheveux Blancs, in which 
allusions were made by the former to the friendly con- 
duct of the Little Chief, alias Wind, when compared to 
that of the latter. I must here observe that when the 
chiefs and prisoners left me, accompanied by Lieuten- 
ant Wilkinson, I did not know the geographical situation 



The Arkansas Journey i6i 

of the two villages, but conceived that, in going to the 
Little Village, they v^^ould pass by the Grand Village, 
and, of course. Lieutenant Wilkinson and the chief 
would arrange the affair. 

'■'■Aug. 2'^rd. I expected to have received from the 
chiefs their answers to my demands; but received an 
express from both villages, informing me that they 
wished to put them off until to-morrow. I then ad- 
justed my instruments. Took equal altitudes and a 
meridianal altitude of the sun; but owing to flying 
clouds, missed the immersions of Jupiter's satelHtes. 

''Sunday^ Aug, 2i\.th. Was nearly half the day in 
adjusting the line of collimation in the telescopic sights 
of my theodolite. It began to cloud before evening, 
and although the sky was not entirely covered, I was 
so unfortunate as to miss the time of immersion, and 
although clear in the immediate period, an emersion 
also. I was informed by Baroney that the Little Vil- 
lage had made up 1 1 horses for us. In the evening, 
however, the interpreter accompanied by the son-in-law 
and son of Cheveux Blancs, came to camp, and in- 
formed me that there were no horses to be got in the 
village of the Big Osage. 

"The son-in-law spoke as follows: 'I am come to 
give you the news of our village, which is unfortunate 
for us, our chief having assembled his young men and 
warriors and proposed to them to furnish horses, etc. 
They have generally refused him; but I, who am the 
principal man after Cheveux Blancs, will accompany 
you.' The son: 'Our young men and warriors will 



1 62 Zebulon M. Pike 

not take pity on my father, nor on me, nor on you, and 
have refused to comply with your request; but I will 
accompany you with two horses to carry provision 
for your voyage,' The interpreter: 'The Cheveux 
Blancs was ashamed to bring you this answer, but 
will again assemble his village and to-morrow come and 
give you the answer.' I replied that I had made the 
demand without explanation, merely to let the Osage 
act agreeably to their inclination, in order that we 
might see what disposition they would exhibit toward 
us; but why do I ask of their chiefs to follow me to the 
Pawnees ? Is it for our good, or their own ? Is it not 
to make peace with the Kans ? To put their wives 
and children out of danger ? As to their horses which 
they may furnish us with, I will pay them for their hire; 
but it is uncertain whether I can pay them here, or give 
them an order on the Superintendent of Indian Affairs 
at St. Louis; but this I do not now wish them to be 
made acquainted with. 

"Aug. 2^th. In the morning we were visited by 
Cheveux Blancs and three or four of his chiefs, who 
were pleased to accord to my demands. He found 
much difficulty in informing me that in all his village 
he could only raise four horses, but that we should be 
accompanied by his son and son-in-law. I then ex- 
pressed to him the difference of our expectations from 
the reality. He remained until after twelve o'clock, 
when I went to the Little Osage village, and was received 
with great friendship by the chief. Remained all night 
at the house of Tuttasuggy. Took the census. 



The Arkansas Journey 163 

"Aug. 26th. Rose early and found my friends in 
council, which was merely relative to our horses. The 
chief then declared their determination to me, and that 
he himself gave me one horse, and lent me eight more 
to carry our baggage to the Pawnees. Sold the old bat- 
teau for i^ioo in merchandise, which I conceived infi- 
nitely preferable to leaving her to the uncertain safe- 
guard of the Indians. About this time we received the 
news that the party of the Pottawatomies were discov- 
ered to be near the towns. I gave them the best advice 
I was capable of giving, and then returned to our camp." 

Pike was now preparing to continue his journey over- 
land. The difficulty of getting the necessary horses 
he attributed to the agent of the mischievous de Liza, 
Labardie, and to his faithless interpreter, Maugraine, 
both being inspired by de Liza himself, from St. Louis. 
In a letter sent at the time to his general, Pike writes: 

"It is with extreme pain that I keep myself cool 
amongst the difficulties which those people appear to 
have a disposition to throw in my way; but I have de- 
clared to them that I should go on, even if I collected 
our tents and other baggage which we will be obliged to 
leave together, and burnt them on the spot.'* 

Meanwhile, he made good use of the delay in study- 
ing the peculiar traits of the Osages, and with Dr. 
Robinson attended a medicine dance, of which else- 
where he writes: 

"Having had all the doctors or magicians assembled 
in the lodge of Ca-ha-ga-tonga, alias Cheveux Blancs, 
and about 500 spectators, they had two rows of fires 



164 Zebulon M. Pike 

prepared, around which the sacred band was stationed. 
They commenced the tragi-comedy by putting a large 
butcher-knife down their throats, the blood appearing 
to run during the operation very naturally; the scene 
was continued by putting sticks through the nose, 
swallowing bones and taking them out of the nostrils, 
etc. At length one fellow demanded of me what I 
would give if he would run a stick through his tongue, 
and let another person cut off the piece. I replied, 
'a shirt.' He then apparently performed his promise, 
with great pain, forcing a stick through his tongue, and 
then giving a knife to a by-stander, who appeared to 
cut off the piece, which he held to the light for the satis- 
faction of the audience, and then joined it to his tongue, 
and by a magical charm healed the wound immediately. 
On demanding of me what I thought of the perform- 
ance, I repHed I would give him 20 shirts if he would 
let me cut off the piece from his tongue; this discon- 
certed him a great deal, and I was sorry I had made 
the observation." 

The Osage nation Pike found divided into four 
classes — warriors and hunters and cooks and doctors; 
the doctors exercising also the offices of priests and 
magicians. Warriors who had become old or infirm, or 
had lost their families, frequently became cooks, adding 
to their duties that of town crier, calling the chiefs to 
council and to feasts, or if any particular person was 
wanted crying his name through the village and inform- 
ing him at what lodge he is wanted. Concerning the 
etiquette of Osage hospitality he tells us: 



The Arkansas Journey 165 

"When received into the Osage village you immedi- 
ately present yourself at the lodge of the chief, w^ho re- 
ceives you as his guest, where you generally eat first, 
after the old patriarchal style. You are then invited 
to a feast by all the great men of the village, and it 
v^ould be a great insult if you did not comply, at least 
so far as to taste of the victuals. In one instance I was 
obliged to taste of 15 different entertainments the same 
afternoon. You will hear cooks crying, 'Come and 
eat' — such a one 'gives a feast, come and eat of his 
bounty.' Their dishes were generally sweet corn boiled 
in buffalo grease, or boiled meat and pumpkins; but 
Sans Oreille, alias Tetobasi, treated me to a dish of tea 
in a wooded dish, with new horn spoons, boiled meat 
and crullers; he had been in the United States. Their 
towns hold more people in the same space of ground 
than any places I ever saw. Their lodges are posted 
with scarcely any regularity, each one building in the 
manner, directions, and dimensions which suit him 
best, by which means they frequently leave room only 
for a single man to squeeze in between them; added 
to this they have pens for their horses, all within the 
village, into which they always drive them at night, in 
case they think there is any reason to believe there is 
an enemy lurking in the vicinity. 

"The Osage lodges are generally constructed with 
upright posts put firmly in the ground, of about 20 feet 
in height, with a crotch at the top; they are about 12 
feet distant from each other; in the crotch of those posts 
are put the ridge-poles, over which are bent small poles, 



1 66 Zebulon M. Pike 

the ends of which are brought down and fastened to a 
row of stakes about five feet in height; these stakes are 
fastened together with three horizontal bars, and form 
the flank walls of the lodge. The gable ends are gen- 
erally broad slabs, rounded off to the ridge-pole. The 
whole of the building and sides are covered with matting 
made of rushes, two or three feet in length and four feet 
in width, which are joined together, and entirely exclude 
the rain. The doors are on the sides of the building, 
and generally are one on each side. The fires are 
made in holes in the center of the lodge, the smoke as- 
cending through apertures left in the roof for the pur- 
pose. At one end of the dwelling is a raised platform, 
about three feet from the ground, which is covered with 
bear-skins, generally holds all the little choice furniture 
of the master, and on which repose his honorable guests. 
In fact, with neatness and a pleasing companion, these 
dwellings would compose a very comfortable and pleas- 
ant summer habitation, but are left in the winter for the 
woods. They vary in length from 36 to 100 feet." 

After five days' delay in getting horses, and making 
presents to the Indians for their hospitality and present- 
ing the village with a flag. Pike took up the march again. 

"Sept. 1st. Struck our tents early in the morning, 
and commenced loading our horses. We now discov- 
ered an Indian had stolen a large black horse which 
Cheveux Blancs had presented to Lieutenant Wilkin- 
son. I mounted a horse to pursue him; but the in- 
terpreter sent to town, and the chief's wife sent another 
in its place. We left the place about twelve o'clock 



The Arkansas Journey 167 

with 15 loaded horses, our party consisting of two 
Heutenants, one doctor, two sergeants, one corporal, 15 
privates, two interpreters, three Pawnees, and four chiefs 
of the Grand Osage, amounting in all to 30 warriors 
and one woman. We crossed the Grand Osage fork 
and a prairie N, 80° W. five miles to the fork of the 
Little Osage. Joined by Sans Oreille and seven Little 
Osage, all of whom I equipped for the march. Dis- 
tance eight miles. 

"Sept. 2d. Marched at six o'clock. Halted at ten 
o'clock and two o'clock on the side of the creek, our 
route having been all the time on its borders. Whilst 
there I was informed by a young Indian that Mr. C. 
Chouteau had arrived at the towns. I conceived it 
proper for me to return, which I did, accompanied by 
Baroney, first to the Little Village; whence we were 
accompanied by Wind to the Big Village, where we re- 
mained all night at the lodge of Cheveux Blancs. Mr. 
Chouteau gave us all the news, after which I scrawled 
a letter to the general and my friends. 

''Sept. ^rd. Rose early and went to the Little Vil- 
lage to breakfast. After giving my letters to Mr. 
Henry, and arranging my affairs, we proceeded and 
overtook our party at two o'clock. They had left their 
first camp about four miles. Our horses being much 
fatigued, we concluded to remain all night. Sent out 
our red and white hunters, all of whom only killed two 
turkeys. Distance four miles. 

"Sept. /\.th. When about to march in the morning 
one of our horses was missing; we left Sans Oreille, with 



1 68 Zebulon M. Pike 

the two Pawnees to search for him, and proceeded until 
about nine o'clock; stopped until twelve o'clock, and 
then marched. In about a half an hour I was over- 
taken and informed that Sans Oreille had not been 
able to find our horse; on which we encamped, and 
sent two horses back for the load. One of the Indians 
being jealous of his wife sent her back to the village. 
After making the necessary notes, Dr. Robinson and 
myself took our horses and followed the course of a 
little stream until we arrived at Grand river, which was 
distant about six miles. Here we found a most delight- 
ful basin of water, of 25 paces diameter and about 100 
in circumference, in which we bathed; found it deep 
and delightfully pleasant. Nature scarcely ever formed 
a more beautiful place for a farm. We returned to 
camp about dusk, when I was informed that some of the 
Indians had been dreaming and wished to return. 
Killed one deer, one turkey, one raccoon. 

"Sept. ^th. In the morning our Little Osage all came 
to a determination to return, and, much to my sur- 
prise. Sans Oreille among the rest. I had given an 
order on the chiefs for the lost horse to be delivered to 
Sans Oreille's wife, previously to my knowing that he 
was going back; but took from him his gun, and the 
guns from all the others also. 

"In about five miles we struck a beautiful hill, which 
bears south on the prairie; its elevation I suppose to be 
100 feet. From its summit the view is sublime to the 
east and southeast. We waited on this hill to breakfast, 
and had to send two miles for water. Killed a deer 



The Arkansas Journey 169 

on the rise, which was soon roasting before the fire. 
Here another Indian wished to return and take his 
horse with him; which, as we had so few, I could not 
allow, for he had already received a gun for the use of 
his horse. I told him he might return, but his horse 
would go to the Pawnees. 

"We marched, leaving the Osage trace, which we 
had hitherto followed, and crossed the hills to a creek 
that was almost dry. Descended it to the main river, 
where we dined. The discontented Indian came up, 
and put on an air of satisfaction and content. 

"We again marched about six miles further, and en- 
camped at the head of a small creek, about half a mile 
from the water. Distance 19 miles. 

''Sept. 6th. We marched at half past six o'clock, 
and arrived at a large fork of the Little Osage river, 
where we breakfasted. In the holes of the creek we 
discovered many fish, which, from the stripes on their 
bellies and their spots, I supposed to be trout and bass; 
they were 12 inches long. This brought to mind the 
necessity of a net, which would have frequently afforded 
subsistence to the whole party. We halted at one 
o'clock and remained until four o'clock. Being told 
that we could not arrive at any water, we here filled our 
vessels. At five o'clock arrived at the dividing ridge, 
between the waters of the Osage and the Arkansaw, alias 
White river, the dry branches of which interlock within 
20 yards of each other. The prospect from the divid- 
ing ridge to the east and southeast is sublime. The 
prairie rising and falling in regular swells, as far as the 



lyo Zebulon M. Pike 

sight can extend, produces a very beautiful appearance. 
We left our course, and struck down to the southwest 
on a small creek, or rather a puddle of water. Killed 
one deer. Distance 20 miles, 

" Sunday, Sept. Jth. We left this at half past six 
o'clock, before which we had a difficulty with the son 
of the chief, which was accommodated. At nine o'clock 
we came on a large fork and stopped for breakfast and 
encamped on a fine stream, where we swam our horses 
and bathed ourselves. Killed four deer. Distance 15 
miles. 

"Sept. Sth. Marched early and arrived at a grand 
fork of the White river. The Indians are all discon- 
tented; we had taken the wrong ford ; but, as they were 
dispersed through the wood, we could not be governed 
by their movements. Previously to our leaving camp, 
the son of Cheveux Blancs proposed returning, offering 
no other reason than that he felt too lazy to perform the 
route. The reason I offered to prevent his going was 
ineffectual, and he departed with his hunter, who de- 
prived us of one horse. His return left us without any 
chief or man of consideration, except the son of Belle 
Oiseau, who was but a lad. The former appeared to be 
a discontented young fellow, filled with self-pride; he 
certainly should have considered it as an honor to be 
sent on so respectable an embassy as he was. Another 
Indian, who owned one of our horses, wished to return 
with him, which was positively refused him; but fear- 
ing he might steal him, I contented him with a present. 
We marched, and made the second branch, crossing 



The Arkansas Journey 171 

one prairie 12 miles, in which we suffered much with 
drought. Distance 22 miles." 

It is necessary now to understand something of the 
course by which Pike reached the "Pawnee Republic'* 
in southern Nebraska whither he is now bound and 
which his uncertainty as to the nomenclature of the 
country makes a little confusing. The Neosho River, 
for example, he sometimes calls the Grand River and 
again the White river. The latter name also seems 
occasionally to refer to the Arkansas River. He is 
travelling over the water-shed of the Arkansas into 
which the Verdigris and the Neosho Rivers empty their 
waters. It is a difficult journey over dry prairies, nu- 
merous creeks — a journey whose difficulties are varied 
only by the hunting of the buffalo, deer, turkeys, and 
cabrie, as he calls the antelope, which abounded in this 
country. It is interesting also to identify Pike's course 
by means of the thriving and prosperous towns that 
have since sprung up in this then unknown region. 

After leaving the Osage villages on the border be- 
tween Missouri and Kansas, Pike traversed the Little 
Osage until he came to what is now Xenia, Kansas; 
and from thence travelled westward crossing the Neosho 
near the present town of lola. Proceeding now north- 
west he camped near Elco on the head-waters of the Ver- 
digris River. From thence he crossed the Cottonwood 
near Cottonwood Falls, and made camp near the present 
town of Marion on the night of the thirteenth of Sep- 
tember. He then marched northward and crossed the 
divide near Tampa, when proceeding westerly he 



172 Zebulon M. Pike 

crossed Gypsum Creek, not far from Gypsum City, 
where he camped. His next camp was near Bridge- 
port, having crossed the Smoky Hill River. From 
thence he marched northward and again camped within 
a few miles of the city of Salina, which finishes the first 
section of Pike's journey to the Pawnees, where, as he 
says, he expected to meet some of that tribe. 

"Sunday, Sept. i\th. The doctor and Frank, a 
young Pawnee, marched for the village at daylight; we 
at half past six o'clock. Halted at one o'clock. On 
the march we were continually passing through large 
herds of buffalo, elk, and cabrie; and I have no doubt 
that one hunter could support 200 men. I prevented 
the men shooting at the game, not merely because of 
the scarcity of ammunition, but, as I conceived, the 
laws of morality forbid it also. Encamped at sunset 
on the main branch of White river, hitherto called 
Grand river. Killed one buffalo and one cabrie. Dis- 
tance 21 miles. 

^^ Sept. i^th. Marched at seven o'clock; passed a 
very large Kans encampment, evacuated, which had 
been occupied last summer. Proceeded on to the divid- 
ing ridge between the waters of White river and the 
Kans. This ridge was covered with a layer of stone, 
which was strongly impregnated with iron ore, and on 
the W. side of said ridge we found spa springs. Halted 
at one o'clock, very much against the inclination of the 
Osage, who, from the running of the buffalo, conceived 
a party of Kans to be near. Killed two buffalo. Dis- 
tance 18 miles. 



The Arkansas Journey 173 

'^Sept. i6th. Marched late, and in about 4 miles' dis- 
tance came to a very handsome branch of water, at 
which we stopped and remained until after two o'clock, 
when we marched and crossed two branches. En- 
camped on a third. At the second creek, a horse was 
discovered on the prairie, when Baroney went in pur- 
suit of him on a horse of Lieutenant Wilkinson's, but 
arrived at our camp without success. Distance 13 
miles. 

"Sept. iSth. Marched at our usual hour, and at 
twelve o'clock halted at a large branch of the Kans, 
which was strongly impregnated with salt. This day 
we expected the people of the village to meet us. We 
marched again at four o'clock. Our route being over 
a continued series of hills and hollows, we were until 
eight o'clock before we arrived at a small dry branch. 
It was nearly ten o'clock before we found any water. 
Commenced raining a little before day. Distance 25 
miles. 

"Sept. igth. It having commenced raining early, 
we secured our baggage and pitched our tents. The 
rain continued without any intermission the whole 
day, during which we employed ourselves in reading the 
Bible and Pope's Essays, and in pricking on our arms 
with India ink some characters, which will frequently 
bring to mind our forlorn and dreary situation, as well 
as the happiest days of our life. In the rear of our en- 
campment was a hill, on which there was a large rock, 
where the Indians kept a continual sentinel, as I imagine 
to apprise them of the approach of any party, friends 



174 Zebulon M. Pike 

or foes, as well as to see if they could discover any game 
on the prairies. 

"Sept. 20th. It appearing as if we possibly might 
have a clear day, I ordered our baggage spread abroad 
to dry; but it shortly after clouded up and commenced 
raining. The Osage sentinel discovered a buffalo on 
the prairies; upon which we dispatched a hunter on 
horseback in pursuit of him, also some hunters on foot; 
before night they killed three buffalo, some of the best 
of which we brought in and jerked or dried by the fire. 
It continued showery until afternoon, when we put our 
baggage again in a position to dry, and remained en- 
camped. The detention of the doctor and our Pawnee 
ambassador began to be a serious matter of considera- 
tion. 

"Sunday, Sept. 2ist. We marched at eight o'clock, 
although there was every appearance of rain, and at 
eleven o'clock passed a large creek, remarkably salt. 
Stopped at one o'clock on a fresh branch of the salt 
creek. Our interpreter having killed an elk, we sent 
out for some meat, which detained us so late that I 
concluded it best to encamp where we were, in pref- 
erence to running the risk of finding no water. Dis- 
tance 10 miles. 

"Lieutenant Wilkinson was attacked with a severe 
headache and slight fever. One of my men had been 
attacked with a touch of the pleurisy on the l8th, and 
was still ill. We were informed by an Osage woman 
that two of the Indians were conspiring to desert us in 
the night and steal some of our horses, one of whom 



The Arkansas Journey 175 

was her husband. We engaged her as our spy. Thus 
were we obHged to keep ourselves on our guard against 
our own companions and fellow-travelers — men of a 
nation highly favored by the United States, but whom 
I believe to be a faithless set of poltrons, incapable of a 
great and generous action. Among them, indeed, there 
may be some exceptions. 

"In the evening, finding that the two Indians above 
mentioned had made all preparations to depart, I sent 
for one of them, who owned a horse and had received a 
gun and other property for his hire, and told him, I 
knew his plans, and that if he was disposed to desert, I 
should take care to retain his horse; that as for himself, 
he might leave me if he pleased, as I only wanted men 
with us. He replied that he was a man, that he always 
performed his promises, that he had never said he would 
return; but that he would follow me to the Pawnee 
village, which he intended to do. He then brought his 
baggage and put it under charge of the sentinel, and 
slept by my fire; but notwithstanding I had him well 
watched. 

"Sept. 22d. We did not march until eight o'clock, 
owing to the indisposition of Lieutenant Wilkinson. At 
eleven waited to dine. Light mists of rain, with flying 
clouds. We marched again at three o'clock, and con- 
tinued our route 12 miles to the first branch of the Repub- 
lican Fork. Met a Pawnee hunter, who informed us 
that the chief had left the village the day after the doc- 
tor arrived, with 50 or 60 horses and many people, and 
had taken his course to the north of our route; conse- 



176 Zebulon M. Pike 

quently we had missed each other. He Hkewise in- 
formed us that the Tetaus had recently killed six Paw- 
nees, the Kans had stolen some horses, and a party of 
300 Spaniards had lately been as far as the Sabine; but 
for what purpose w^as unknown. Distance 1 1 miles. 

"Sept. 2yd. Marched early and passed a large fork 
of the Kans river which I suppose to be the one gener- 
ally called Solomon's. One of our horses fell into the 
water and wet his load. Halted at ten o'clock on a 
branch of this fork. We marched at half past one 
o'clock, and encamped at sundown on a stream, where 
we had a great difficulty to find water. We saw some 
mules, horses, bridles, and blankets, which they ob- 
tained from the Spainards. Few only had breech cloth, 
most being wrapped in buffalo robes, otherwise quite 
naked. 

"Sept. 2^th. We marched at a good hour, and in 
about eight miles struck a very large road on which the 
Spanish troops had returned, and on which we could yet 
discover the grass beaten down in the direction which 
they went. 

"When we arrived within about three miles of the 
village, we were requested to remain, as the ceremony of 
receiving the Osage into the towns was to be performed 
here. There was a small circular spot, clear of grass, 
before which the Osage sat down. We were a small 
distance in advance of the Indians. The Pawnees then 
advanced within a mile of us, halted, divided into two 
troops, and came on each flank at full charge, making 
all the gestures and performing the maneuvers of a 



The Arkansas Journey 177 

real war charge. They then encircled us around, and 
the chief advanced in the center and gave us his hand; 
his name was Characterish. He was accompanied by 
his two sons and a chief by the name of Iskatappe. 
The Osage were still seated; but Belle Oiseau then rose, 
came forward with a pipe, and presented it to the chief, 
who took a whiff or two from it. We then proceeded; 
the chief. Lieutenant Wilkinson, and myself in front; 
my sergeant, on a white horse, next with the colors; then 
our horses and baggage, escorted by our men, with the 
Pawnees on each side, running races, etc. When we 
arrived on the hill over the town we were again halted, 
and the Osage seated in a row; when each Pawnee who 
intended so to do presented them with a horse and gave 
a pipe to smoke to the Osage to whom he had made the 
present. In this manner were eight horses given. 
Lieutenant Wilkinson then proceeded with the party 
to the river above the town and encamped. I went up 
to our camp in the evening, having a young Pawnee 
with me loaded with corn for my men. Distance 12 
miles. As the chief had invited us to his lodge to eat, 
we thought it proper for one to go. At the lodge he 
gave me many particulars which were interesting to us 
relative to the late visit of the Spaniards. 

" I will attempt to give some memoranda of this ex- 
pedition, which was the most important ever carried on 
from the province of New Mexico, and in fact the only 
one directed N. E. to the Pawnees (except that men- 
tioned by the Abbe Reynal in his History of the Indies 
— of which see a more particular account hereafter). 



178 Zebulon M. Pike 

In the year 1806 our affairs with Spain began to wear 
a very serious aspect, and the troops of the two govern- 
ments almost came to actual hostihties on the frontiers 
of Texas and the Orleans territory. At this time, when 
matters bore every appearance of coming to a crisis, I 
was fitting out for my expedition from St. Louis, where 
some of the Spanish emissaries in that country trans- 
mitted the news of it to Major Merior and the Spanish 
Council at that place, who immediately forwarded the 
information to the then commandant of Nacodoches, 
Captain Sebastian Roderiques, who forwarded it to 
the seat of government. This information was person- 
ally communicated to me, as an instance of the rapid 
means they possessed of transmitting information rel- 
ative to the occurrences transacting on our frontiers. 
The expedition was then determined on, and had three 
objects in view: 

"ist. To descend the Red river, in order, if he met 
our expedition, to intercept and turn us back; or, 
should Major Sparks and Mr. Freeman have missed 
the party from Nacodoches, under the command of 
Captain Viana, to oblige them to return and not pene- 
trate further into the country, or make them prisoners 
of war. 

"2d. To explore and examine all the internal parts 
of the country from the frontiers of the province of New 
Mexico to the Missouri between the La Platte [sen- 
tence unfinished]. 

"3d. To visit the Tetaus, Pawnees republic. Grand 
Pawnees, Pawnee Mahaws, and Kans. To the head 



The Arkansas Journey 179 

chief of each of those nations the commanding officer 
bore flags, a commission, grand medal, and four mules; 
and with all of them he had to renew the chains of 
ancient amity which was said to have existed between 
their father, his most Cathohc majesty, and his children 
the red people. 

"The commanding officers also bore positive orders 
to oblige all parties or persons, in the above-specified 
countries, either to retire from them into the acknowl- 
edged territories of the United States, or to make pris- 
oners of them and conduct them into the province of 
N. Mexico. Lieutenant Don Facundo Malgares, the 
officer selected from the five internal provinces to com- 
mand this expedition, was a European (his uncle was 
one of the royal judges in the kingdom of New Spain), 
and had distinguished himself in several long expeditions 
against the Apaches and other Indian nations with 
whom the Spaniards were at war; added to these cir- 
cumstances, he was a man of immense fortune, and 
generous in its disposal, almost to profusion; possessed 
a liberal education, high sense of honor, and a dis- 
position formed for military enterprise. This officer 
marched from the province of Biscay with 100 dragoons 
of the regular service, and at Santa Fc, the place where 
the expedition was fitted out, he was joined by 500 of 
the mounted militia of that province, armed after the 
manner described by my notes on that subject, and com- 
pletely equipped with ammunition, etc., for six months; 
each man leading with them (by order) two horses and 
one mule, the whole number of their beasts was 2,075. 



i8o Zebulon M. Pike 

They ascended the Red river 233 leagues; met the 
grand bands of the Tetaus, and held councils with them; 
then struck off N. E., and crossed the country to the 
Arkansaw, where Lieutenant Malgares left 240 of his 
men with the lame and tired horses, while he proceeded 
on with the rest to the Pawnee republic. Here he was 
met by the chiefs and warriors of the Grand Pawnees; 
held councils with the two nations and presented them 
the flags, medals, etc., which were destined for them. 
He did not proceed to the execution of his mission with 
the Pawnee Mahaws and Kans, as he represented to 
me, from the poverty of their horses and the discontent 
of his own men; but, as I conceive, from the suspicion 
and discontent which began to arise between the 
Spaniards and the Indians; the former wished to revenge 
the death of Villineuve and party, while the latter pos- 
sessed all the suspicions of conscious villainy deserv- 
ing punishment. Malgares took with him all the traders 
he found there from our country, some of whom having 
been sent from Natchitoches, were in abject poverty at 
that place on my arrival, and applied to me for means 
to return to St. Louis. Lieutenant Malgares returned 
to Santa Fe in October, when his militia was disbanded; 
but he remained in the vicinity of that place until we 
were brought in, and with his dragoons, became our 
escort to the seat of Government." 

Pike had now arrived at his destination, coming 
directly north from Salina and crossing the Republican 
River near what is now White Rock. The diary gives 
but a meagre account of his reception by the Pawnees, 




froc/^t^a/cu. .y'^'Utoc^./0j^^ 



rv 'T 7 










FAC-SIMILE OF AUTOGRAPH LETTER FROM GENERAL PIKE TO 
THE HON. HENRY DEARBORNE, SECRETARY OF WAR. 



The Arkansas Journey i8i 



but fortunately Lieutenant Wilkinson has elsewhere 
related it in detail. 

"Early on the morning of the 25th we were joined 
by a few more savages of distinction, headed by the 
brother of Characterish, or White Wolf, chief of the 
nation, who was to act as master of the ceremonies to 
our formal entry. Preparatory to our march, we had 
our men equipped as neatly as circumstances would ad- 
mit. About mid-day we reached the summit of a 
lofty chain of ridges, where we were requested to halt 
and await the arrival of the chief who was half 
a mile from us, with 300 horsemen, who were generally 
naked, except buffalo robes and breech cloths, and 
painted with white, yellow, blue, and black paint. At 
the word of the chief the warriors divided, and, push- 
ing on at full speed, flanked us on the right and left, 
yelling in a most diabolical manner. The chief ad- 
vanced in front, accompanied by Iskatappe, or Rich 
Man, the second great personage of the village and his 
two sons, who were clothed in scarlet cloth. They ap- 
proached slowly, and when within 100 yards the three 
latter halted; Characterish advanced in great state, 
and when within a few paces of us streched out his hand 
and cried, * Bon jour.' Thus ended the first ceremony. 
We moved on about a mile further, and having gained 
the summit of a considerable hill, we discovered the vil- 
lage directly at its base. We here were again halted, 
and the few Osages who accompanied us were ordered 
in front and seated in rank entire. The chief squatted 
on his hams in front of them and filled a calumet, which 



1 82 Zebulon M. Pike 

several different Indians took from him and handed the 
Osages to smoke. This was called the horse-smoke, as 
each person who took the pipe from the chief intended 
to present the Osages a horse. Mr. Pike and Dr. Rob- 
inson afterward accompanied the chief to his lodge, and 
I moved on with the detachment and formed our camp 
on the opposite bank of the Republican fork of the 
Kansas river, on a commanding hill which had been 
selected as the most favorable situation for making 
observations, though very inconvenient on account of 
wood and water, which we had to transport nearly a 
quarter of a mile. 

"At a council held some few days after our arrival. 
Lieutenant Pike explained to them the difference of 
their present situation and that of a few years past; 
now they must look up to the president of the United 
States as their great father; that he had been sent by 
him to assure them of his good wishes, etc.; that he per- 
ceived a Spanish flag flying at the council-lodge door, 
and was anxious to exchange one of their great father's 
for it; and that it was our intention to proceed further 
to the westward, to examine this, our newly acquired 
country. To this a singular and extraordinary re- 
sponse was given — in fact, an objection, started in direct 
opposition to our proceeding further west; however, 
they gave up the Spanish flag, and we had the pleasure 
to see the American standard hoisted in its stead.'* 

Pike's diary again takes up the daily march. 

''Sept. 26th. Finding our encampment not eligible 
as to situation, we moved down on to the prairie hill, 



The Arkansas Journey 183 

about three-fourths of a mile nearer the village. We 
sent our interpreter to town to trade for provisions. 
About three o'clock in the afternoon 12 Kans arrived 
at the village, and informed Baroney that they had come 
to meet us, hearing that we were to be at the Pawnees 
village. We pitched our camp upon a beautiful emi- 
nence, whence we had a view of the town and all that 
was transacting. In the evening Baroney, with the 
chief, came to camp to give us the news, and returned 
together. 

''Sept. 2'jth. Baroney arrived from the village about 
one o'clock, with Characterish, whose commission from 
the Governor of New Mexico was dated Santa Fe, June 
15th, 1806, and three other chiefs, to all of whom I gave 
a dinner. I then made an appropriate present to each, 
after which Lieutenant Wilkinson and myself accom- 
panied them to town, where we remained a few hours, 
and returned. Appointed to-morrow for the interview 
with the Kans and Osage. 

"Sunday Sept. 28M. Held a council of the Kans and 
Osage, and made them smoke the pipe of peace. Two 
of the Kans agreed to accompany us. We received a 
visit from the chief of the village. Made an observation 
on an emersion of one of Jupiter's satellites. 

''Sept. 2gth. Held our grand council with the 
Pawnees, at which not less than 400 warriors were 
present, the circumstances of which were extremely in- 
teresting. The notes I took on my grand council held 
with the Pawnee nation were seized by the Spanish gov- 
ernment, together with all my speeches to the different 



184 Zebulon M. Pike 

nations. But it may be interesting to observe here, in 
case they should never be returned, that the Spaniards 
had left several of their flags in this village, one of which 
was unfurled at the chief's door the day of the grand 
council; and that among various demands and charges 
I gave them was, that the said flag should be delivered 
to me, and one of the United States' flags be received 
and hoisted in its place. This probably was carrying 
the pride of nations a little too far, as there had so lately 
been a large force of Spanish cavalry at the village 
which had made a great impression on the minds of the 
young men, as to their power, consequence, etc., which 
my appearance with 20 infantry was by no means calcu- 
lated to remove. 

"After the chiefs had replied to various parts of my 
discourse, but were silent as to the flag, I again reiterated 
the demand for the flag, adding that it was impossible 
for the nation to have two fathers; that they must either 
be the children of the Spaniards, or acknowledge their 
American father. After a silence of some time an old 
man rose, went to the door, took down the Spanish flag, 
brought it and laid it at my feet; he then received the 
American flag, and elevated it on the staff" which had 
lately borne the standard of his Catholic Majesty. This 
gave great satisfaction to the Osage and Kans, both of 
whom decidedly avow themselves to be under American 
protection. Perceiving that every face in the council 
was clouded with sorrow, as if some great national ca- 
lamity were about to befall them, I took up the con- 
tested colors, and told them that as they had shown 



The Arkansas Journey 185 

themselves dutiful children in acknowledging their great 
American father, I did not wish to embarrass them with 
the Spaniards, for it was the wish of the Americans that 
their red brethren should remain peaceably around their 
own fires, and not embroil themselves in any disputes 
between the white people; and that for fear the Span- 
iards might return there in force again, I returned them 
their flag with an injunction that it should never be 
hoisted during our stay. At this there was a general 
shout of applause, and the charge was particularly at- 
tended to. 

''Sept. ^oth. Remained all day in camp, but sent 
Baroney to town, who informed me on his return that the 
chief appeared to wish to throw great obstacles in our 
way. A great disturbance had taken place in the vil- 
lage, owing to one of the young Pawnees, Frank, who 
had lately come from the United States, having taken 
the wife of an Osage and run away with her. The 
chief, in whose lodge the Osage put up, was extremely 
enraged, considering it a breech of hospitality to a per- 
son under his roof, and threatened to kill Frank if he 
caught him." 

This date concludes the chapter from the diary. But 
the notes on the Pawnees, that Pike alludes to as having 
been taken from him he introduces in his report, and 
these may be fitly introduced here while he is parleying 
with the Pawnee chief, who was still plainly under the 
influence of the Spaniards. Pike finds the Pawnees tall, 
slim, with high cheek-bones, which "clearly indicate 
their Asiatic origin. By no means so cleanly as the 



1 86 Zebulon M. Pike 

Osage, they are also neither so brave or generous as the 
more northern tribes." This degeneracy he attributes 
to the ease in which they live in the midst of a country 
abounding in buffaloes. Although they breed superior 
horses, they always go to war on foot while the enemy 
is mounted. They, however, are better armed, half the 
warriors having fire-arms. Like the Osage, they are 
agriculturists, raising corn and pumpkins with which 
they thin their soup. The pumpkins they cut into thin 
slices, which they dry in the sun, while the corn they 
cache, and keep sweet until spring. 

Their houses are a perfect circle, except where the 
door enters, whence there is a projection of about fifteen 
feet; the whole being constructed after the following 
manner: "First there is an excavation of a circular 
form made in the ground, about 4 feet deep, and 60 
in diameter, where there is a row of posts about 5 feet 
high, with crotches at the top, set firmly in all round, 
and horizontal poles also laid from one to another. 
There then is a row of posts, forming a circle about 10 
feet in height; the crotches of these are so directed that 
horizontal poles are laid also from one to another; long 
poles are then laid slanting upward from the lower poles 
over the higher ones, and meeting nearly at the top, 
leaving only a small aperture for the smoke of the fire 
to pass out, which is made on the ground in the middle 
of the lodge. There is then a number of small poles put 
up around the circle, so as to form the wall, and wicker- 
work is run through the whole. The roof is then 
thatched with grass, and earth is thrown up against the 



The Arkansas Journey 187 

wall until a bank is made to the eaves of the thatch; 
that is also filled with earth one or two feet thick, and 
rendered so tight as entirely to exclude any storm, and 
make the houses extremely warm. The entrance is 
about six feet wide, with walls on each side, and roofed 
like our houses in shape, but of the same materials as 
the main building. Inside there are numerous little 
apartments constructed of wicker-work against the wall, 
with small doors; they have a great appearance of 
neatness, and in them the members of the family sleep 
and have their little deposits. Their towns are by no 
means so much crowded as the Osage, giving much more 
space; but they have the same mode of introducing 
their horses into the village at night, which makes it 
extremely crowded. They keep guards with the horses 
during the day. 

"They are extremely addicted to gaming, and have 
for that purpose a smooth piece of ground cleared out 
on each side of the village for about 150 yards in length, 
on which they play the three following games: One is 
played by two players at a time, and in the following 
manner: They have a large hoop about four feet in 
diameter, in the center of which is a small leather ring; 
this is attached to leather thongs which are extended to 
the hoop, and by that means kept in its central position; 
they also have a pole about six feet in length, which the 
player holds in one hand; he then rolls the hoop from 
him, and immediately slides the pole after it; and the 
nearer the head of the pole lies to the small ring within 
the hoop, when they both fall, the greater is the cast. 



1 88 Zebulon M. Pike 

But I could not ascertain their mode of counting suffi- 
ciently to decide when the game was won. Another 
game is played with a small stick, with several hooks, 
and a hoop about four inches in diameter, which is rolled 
along the ground, and the forked stick darted after it, 
the value of the cast being estimated by the hook on 
which the ring is caught. This game is gained at lOO. 
The third game alluded to is that of la platte, described 
by various travelers; this is played by the women, 
children, and old men, who like grasshoppers crawl out 
to the circus to bask in the sun, probably covered only 
with an old buffalo robe." 



CHAPTER V 

THROUGH KANSAS AND COLORADO TO 

PIKE'S PEAK 

October ist-November 30TH, 1806 

" Wednesday^ Oct. 1st. Paid a visit to town and had a 
very long conversation v^ith the chief, w^ho urged every- 
thing in his power to induce us to turn back. Finally, 
he very candidly told us that the Spaniards wished to 
have gone further into our country, but he induced 
them to give up the idea; that they had listened to him 
and he wished us to do the same; that he had promised 
the Spaniards to act as he now did, and that we must 
proceed no further, or he must stop us by force of arms. 
My reply was, that I had been sent out by our great 
father to explore the western country, to visit all his red 
children, to make peace between them, and turn them 
from shedding blood; that he might see how I had 
caused the Osage and Kans to meet to smoke the pipe 
of peace together, and take each other by the hand like 
brothers; that as yet my road had been smooth, with a 
blue sky over our heads. I had not seen any blood in 
our path; but he must know that the young warriors 
of his great American father were not women, to be 
turned back by words; that I should therefore proceed, 

189 



190 Zebulon M. Pike 

and if he thought proper to stop me, he could attempt 
it; but we were men, well armed, and would sell our 
lives at a dear rate to his nation; that we knew our 
great father would send his young warriors there to 
gather our bones and revenge our deaths on his people, 
when our spirits would rejoice in hearing our exploits 
sung in the war-songs of our chiefs. I then left his 
lodge and returned to camp, in considerable perturba- 
tion of mind. 

''Oct. 2d. We received advice from our Kans that 
the chief had given publicity to his idea of stopping us 
by force of arms, which gave serious reflections to me, 
and was productive of many singular expressions from 
my brave lads, which called for my esteem at the same 
time that they excited my laughter. Attempted to 
trade for horses, but could not succeed. In the night 
we were alarmed by some savages coming near our 
camp at full speed; but they retreated equally rapidly, 
on being hailed with fierceness by our sentinels. This 
created some degree of indignation in my little band, 
as we had noticed that all the day had passed without 
any traders presenting themselves, which appeared as 
if all intercourse was interdicted. I wrote to the secre- 
tary of war, the general etc." 

These letters written on the back of a book, seated on 
the ground, contain little more than has been trans- 
cribed, beyond Pike's belief that the conduct of the 
Pawnees had been inspired by the Spaniards, and that 
the presents of a double barrelled gun to each of the 
four chiefs, as well as "gorgets" — that is to say orna- 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 191 

merited head-pieces — had not prevented them from 
throwing every obstacle in the way of the party's fur- 
ther progress. Meanwhile the arrival of two French 
traders brought the welcome news of the successful re- 
turn of the Lewis and Clark expedition down the Mis- 
souri River. The buying of the horses necessary for 
the return, and the journey toward the Arkansas River 
was a tortuous bit of diplomacy, but at length success- 
ful, and the departure from the Pawnee republic was set 
for the next day. 

''Oct. Jth. In the morning we found two of our newly 
purchased horses missing. Sent in search of them; 
the Indians brought in one pretty early. Struck our 
tents and commenced loading our horses. Finding 
there was no probability of our obtaining the other lost 
one, we marched at 2 p. m.; and as the chief had 
threatened to stop us by force of arms, we made every 
arrangement to make him pay as dearly for the attempt 
as possible. The party was kept compact, and marched 
by a road round the village, in order that, if attacked, 
the savages would not have their houses to fly to for 
cover. I had given orders not to fire until within five 
or six paces, and then to charge with the bayonet and 
saber, when I believe it would have cost them at least 
100 men to have exterminated us, which would have 
been necessary. The village appeared all to be in mo- 
tion. I galloped up to the lodge of the chief, attended 
by my interpreter and one soldier, but soon saw there 
was no serious attempt to be made, although many 
young men were walking about with their bows, arrows, 



192 Zebulon M. Pike 

guns, and lances. After speaking to the chief with 
apparent indifference, I told him that I calculated on his 
justice in obtaining the horse, and that I should leave 
a man until the next day at twelve o'clock to bring him 
out. We then joined the party and pursued our route. 

"When I was once on the summit of the hill which 
overlooks the village, I felt my mind relieved from a 
heavy burden; yet all the evil I wished the Pawnees 
was that I might be the instrument, in the hands of 
our government, to open their ears and eyes with a strong 
hand, to convince them of our power. 

"Our party now consisted of two officers, one doctor, 
18 soldiers, one interpreter, three Osage men, and one 
woman, making 25 warriors. We marched out and 
encamped on a small branch, distant seven miles, on 
the same route we came in. Rain in the night. 

''Oct. Sth. I conceived it best to send Baroney back 
to the village with a present to be offered for our horse, 
the chief having suggested the propriety of this measure, 
and he met his son and the horse with Sparks. Marched 
at ten o'clock, and at four o'clock came to this place, 
where the Spanish troops encamped the first night they 
left the village. Their encampment was circular, hav- 
ing only small fires round the circle to cook by. We 
counted 59 fires; now if we allow six men to a fire, 
they must have been 354 in number. We encamped 
on a large branch of the second fork of the Kans river. 
Distance 18 miles. 

''Oct. gth. Marched at eight o'clock, being detained 
until that time by our horses being at a great distance. 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 193 

At eleven o'clock we found the forks of the Spanish and 
Pawnee roads, and when we halted at twelve o'clock, 
we were overtaken by the second chief, Iskatappe, and 
the American chief with one third of the village. They 
presented us with a piece of bear meat. 

"When we were about to march we discovered that 
the dirk of the doctor had been stolen from behind his 
saddle. After marching, the men, the doctor and my- 
self, with the interpreter went to the chief and demanded 
that he should cause a search to be made; it was done, 
but when the dirk was found, the possessor asserted that 
he had found it on the road. I told him that he did not 
speak the truth, and informed the chief that we never 
suffered a thing of ever so little value to be taken without 
liberty. At this time the prairie was covered with his 
men, who began to encircle us around, and Lieutenant 
Wilkinson with the troops had gained a half mile on 
the road. The Indian demanded a knife before he 
would give it up; but as we refused to give any, the 
chief took one from his belt and gave him and took the 
dirk and presented it to the doctor, who immediately 
returned it to the chief as a present, desired Baroney to 
inform him it was not the value of the article but the 
act we despised, and then galloped off. 

" In about a mile we discovered a herd of elk, which 
we pursued; they took back in sight of the Pawnees, 
who immediately mounted 50 or 60 young men and 
joined in the pursuit. Then, for the first time in my 
life, I saw animals slaughtered by the true savages 
with their original weapons, bows and arrows; they 



194 Zebulon M. Pike 

buried the arrow up to the plume in the animals. We 
took a piece of meat and pursued our party; we over- 
took them and then encamped within the Grand, or 
Solomon's fork, which we crossed lower down on the 
23rd of September, on our route to the Pawnees. This 
was the Spanish encamping ground. Distance 18 miles. 

"In the evening two Pawnees came to our camp, 
who had not eaten for three days, two of which they had 
carried a sick companion whom they had left this day; 
we gave them for supper some meat and corn, and they 
immediately departed in order to carry their sick com- 
panion this seasonable supply. When they were coming 
into camp, the sentinel challenged, it being dark; they 
immediately, on seeing him bring his piece to the charge, 
supposing he was about to fire on them, advanced to give 
him their hands; he, however, not well discerning their 
motions, was on the point of firing; but being a cool, 
collected little fellow, called out that there were two 
Indians advancing on him, and asked if he should fire. 
This brought out the guard, when the poor affrighted 
savages were brought into camp, very much alarmed, 
for they had not heard of a white man's being in their 
country, and thought they were entering one of the 
camps of their own people. 

"Oct. loth. Marched at seven o'clock and halted at 
twelve o'clock to dine. Were overtaken by the Pawnee 
chief whose party we left the day before, who informed 
us the hunting-party had taken another road, and that 
he had come to bid us good-by. We left a large ridge 
on our left, and at sundown crossed it. . , , From this 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 195 

place we had an extensive view of the southwest; we 
observed a creek at a distance, to which I meant to pro- 
ceed. The doctor, interpreter, and myself arrived at 
eight o'clock at night; found water and wood, but 
had nothing to eat. Kindled a fire in order to guide 
the party; but they, not being able to find the route and 
not knowing the distance, encamped on the prairie 
without wood or water. 

'^Oct. nth. Ordered Baroney to return to find the 
party and conduct them to our camp. The doctor and 
myself went out to hunt, and on our return found all our 
people had arrived, except the rear-guard, which was 
in sight. Whilst we halted five Pawnees came to our 
camp and brought some bones of a horse which the 
Spanish troops had been obliged to eat at their en- 
campment on this creek. We took up our line of march 
at tv>7elve o'clock, and at sundown the party halted on 
the Saline. I was in pursuit of buffalo, and did not 
make the camp until near ten o'clock at night. Killed 
one buffalo. Distance 12 miles. 

"Sunday^ Oct. I2th. Here Belle Oiseau and one 
Osage left us, and there remained only one man and 
woman of that nation. Their reason for leaving us was 
that our course bore too much west, and they desired 
to bear more for the hunting-ground of the Osage. 
In the morning we sent out to obtain the buffalo meat, 
and laid by until after breakfast. Proceeded at eleven 
o'clock; and crossing the [Grand Saline] river two or 
three times, we passed two camps where the Spanish 
troops had halted. Here they appeared to have re- 



196 Zebulon M. Pike 

mained some days, their roads being so much blended 
with the traces of the buffalo that we lost them entirely. 
This was a mortifying stroke, as we had reason to cal- 
culate that they had good guides, and were on the 
best route for wood and water. We took a southwest 
direction, and before night were fortunate enough to 
strike their roads on the left; and at dusk, much to our 
surprise, struck the east fork of the Kans, or La Touche 
de la Cote Bucanieus. Killed one buffalo. Distance 
18 miles. 

''Oct. iph. The day being rainy, we did not march 
until two o'clock; when, it having an appearance of 
clearing off, we raised camp (and crossed the Smoky 
Hill river); after which we marched seven miles and 
encamped on the head of a branch of the river we had 
left. Had to go two miles for water. Killed one cabrie. 

''Oct. i^th. It having drizzled all night, and the 
atmosphere being entirely obscured, we did not march 
until a quarter past nine o'clock, and commenced cross- 
ing the dividing ridge between the Kans and Arkan- 
saw rivers. Arrived on a branch of the latter at one 
o'clock; continued down it in search of water, until 
after dusk, when we found a pond on the prairie, which 
induced us to halt. Sparks did not come up, being 
scarcely able to walk with rheumatic pains. Wounded 
several buffalo, but could not get one of them. Dis- 
tance 24 miles." 

It is time now to trace Pike's march from the Pawnee 
Republic in terms of modern geography. He is now 
journeying to the southwest toward Colorado in search of 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 197 



the headwaters of the Arkansas River. He recrossed the 
Solomon River near Beloit, and the Saline River some- 
where near Lincoln in Lincoln county. The Smoky 
Hill River he struck in Russell county, and it is certain 
that he camped near the towns of Forest Hill and Du- 
buque. Journeying more directly south he crossed Cow 
Creek near the town of Claflin. He is now on the old 
Santa Fe trail, crossing Walnut Creek, from whence 
Lieutenant Wilkinson, mistaking "the distant wood" 
Pike pointed out for a camp, while he and Dr. Robin- 
son sought further for traces of the Spanish march, pro- 
ceeded to Great Bend where he camped on the shore 
of the Arkansas. 

"Oct. i^th. In the morning rode out in search of 
the South trace, and crossed the low prairie, which 
was nearly covered with ponds, but could not discover 
it. Finding Sparks did not arrive sent two men in 
search of him, who arrived with him about eleven 
o'clock. At twelve o'clock we commenced our line of 
march, and at five o'clock Dr. Robinson and myself, 
left the party at a large creek, having pointed out a dis- 
tant wood to Lieutenant Wilkinson for our encamp- 
ment, in order to search some distance up it for the 
Spanish trace. Killed two buffalos and left part of our 
clothing with them to scare away the wolves. Went in 
pursuit of the party. On our arrival at the creek ap- 
pointed for the encampment, did not find them. Pro- 
ceeded down it for some miles, and not finding them, 
encamped, struck fire, and then supped on our buffalo 
tongues. 



198 Zebulon M. Pike 

"Or/. i6th. Early on horseback; proceeded up the 
creek some distance in search of our party, but at 
twelve o'clock crossed to our two buffaloes; found a 
great many wolves at them, notwithstanding the pre- 
cautions taken to keep them off. Cooked some marrow- 
bones and again mounted our horses, and proceeded 
down the creek to their junction. Finding nothing of 
the party, I began to be seriously alarmed for their 
safety. Killed two more buffalo, made our encamp- 
ment, and feasted sumptuously on the marrow-bones. 
Rain in the night. 

''Oct. lyth. Rose early, determining to search the 
creek to its source. Very hard rain, accompanied by 
a cold northwester all day. Encamped near night with- 
out being able to discover any signs of the party. Our 
sensations now became excruciating, not only for their 
personal safety, but for fear of the failure of the national 
objects intended to be accomplished by the expedition. 
Our own situation was not the most agreeable, not hav- 
ing more than four rounds of ammunition each, and 
being 400 miles in the nearest direction from the first 
civilized inhabitants. We, however, concluded to search 
for the party on the morrow, and if we did not suc- 
ceed in finding them, to strike the Arkansaw, where we 
were in hopes to discover some traces, if not cut off 
by the savages. 

"Oct. 18//2. Commenced our route at a good time, 
and about ten o'clock discovered two men on horse- 
back in search of us — one my waiter. They informed 
us the party was encamped on the Arkansaw, about 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 199 

three miles south of where we then were; this sur- 
prised us very much, as we had no conception of that 
river being so near. On our arrival we were met by 
Lieutenant Wilkinson, who, with all the party, was 
greatly concerned for our safety. The Arkansaw, on the 
party's arrival, had not water in it six inches deep, and 
the stream was not more than 20 feet wide; but the 
rain of the two days covered all the bottom of the river, 
which in this place is 450 yards from bank to bank. 
These are not more than four feet in height, bordered 
by a few cottonwood trees; on the north side, a low 
swampy prairie; on the south, a sandy, sterile desert 
at a small distance. In the afternoon the doctor and 
myself took our horses and crossed the Arkansaw, in 
order to search for some trees which might answer 
the purpose to make canoes; found but one and re- 
turned at dusk. It commenced raining at twelve 
o'clock." 

Lieutenant Wilkinson's report further explains his 
change of camp, and its interesting result: 

"For several days past we had been so bewildered 
by buffalo paths that we lost the Spanish trace; and 
this being an object of moment, we resolved to make 
search for it. Accordingly, on the following day at 
noon, Mr, Pike and Dr. Robinson struck off from the 
party on a due west course, and I marched the detach- 
ment for a copse of wood which we could barely discern 
in the southwest, and reached it about midnight. At 
daybreak I was awakened by my old and faithful 
Osage, who informed me that we were on the banks of 



200 Zebulon M. Pike 

the Arkansaw river, I immediately arose, and dis- 
covered my tent to have been pitched on the margin of 
a watercourse nearly 400 yards w^ide, v^ith banks not 
three feet high, and a stream of v^ater running through 
it about 20 feet in width and not more than six or eight 
inches deep. 

"I remained here four days in great anxiety and sus- 
pense, as neither Mr. Pike nor Dr. Robinson made 
their appearance, nor could be found, although I had 
all my hunters out in search of them. But I was 
agreeably surprised on the fifth day, early in the morn- 
ing, by their arrival. It appeared that our apprehen- 
sions were mutual, as they expected I had been cut 
off, and I believed they had been murdered." 

The party now together after its day of anxiety, 
the camp was removed to the south bank of the river 
now rising so rapidly on account of the rain. Here 
the business of building the canoe with which Lieu- 
tenant Wilkinson was to descend the river was begun. 
A young cottonwood tree was hewn out with much labor, 
but, proving not sufficient, a second canoe was con- 
structed of buffalo and elk skins. Meanwhile the hunters 
were busy, and for diversion a target was set up, and 
for the best shot, a prize of a tent and a pair of shoes 
was offered. Unluckily, in this contest the dog standing 
in the grass at the foot of a tree was shot and killed. 
Still searching for the traces of the Spaniards, Pike with 
Dr. Robinson rode twenty miles up the Arkansas to its 
junction with the Pawnee River, and five miles up the 
latter river to what became Fort Larned, then a trading- 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 201 

post on the main road to Santa Fe, and latterly a place 
of strategic importance in our Indian campaigns. 

''Oct. 2^th. We ascended the right branch about 
five miles, but could not see any sign of the Spanish 
trace; this is not surprising, as the river bears south- 
w^est, and they no doubt kept more to the west from the 
head of one branch to another. We returned on our 
way and killed some prairie-squirrels, or wishtonwishes 
and nine large rattlesnakes, which frequent their vil- 
lages. On our arrival, found the hunters had come 
in a boat one hour before, with two buffalos and one 
elk skin. 

"The wishtonwish of the Indians, prairie-dogs of 
some travelers, or squirrels, as I should be inclined to 
denominate them, reside on the prairies of Louisiana in 
towns or villages, having an evident police established 
in their communities. The sites of their towns are 
generally on the brow of a hill, near some creek or pond, 
in order to be convenient to water, and that the high 
ground which they inhabit may not be subject to in- 
undation. Their residence, being under ground, is 
burrowed out, and the earth, which answers the double 
purpose of keeping out the water and affording an ele- 
vated place in wet seasons to repose on, and to give 
them a further and more distinct view of the country. 
Their holes descend in a spiral form; therefore I could 
never ascertain their depth; but I once had 140 kettles 
of water poured into one of them in order to drive out 
the occupant, without effect. In the circuit of the vil- 
lages they clear off all the grass, and leave the earth bare 



202 Zebulon M. Pike 

of vegetation; but whether it is from an instinct they 
possess inducing them to keep the ground thus cleared, 
or whether they make use of the herbage as food, I 
cannot pretend to determine. The latter opinion I 
think entitled to a preference, as their teeth designate 
them to be of the graminivorous species, and I know of 
no other substance which is produced in the vicinity of 
their positions on which they could subsist; and they 
never extend their excursions more than half a mile 
from the burrows. They are of a dark brown color, 
except their bellies, which are white. Their tails are 
not so long as those of our gray squirrels, but are shaped 
precisely like theirs; their teeth, head, nails, and body 
are the perfect squirrel, except that they are generally 
fatter than that animal. Their villages sometimes ex- 
tend over two and three miles square, in which there 
must be innumerable hosts of them, as there is generally 
a burrow every ten steps in which there are two or more, 
and you see new ones partly excavated on all the borders 
of the town. We killed great numbers of them with our 
rifles and found them excellent meat, after they were ex- 
posed a night or two to the frost, by which means the 
rankness acquired by their subterraneous dwelling is 
corrected. As you approach their towns, you are 
saluted on all sides by the cry of "wishtonwish," from 
which they derive their name with the Indians, uttered 
in a shrill and piercing manner. You then observe 
them all retreating to the entrance of their burrows, 
where they post themselves, and regard every, even the 
slightest, movement that you make. It requires a very 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 203 

nice shot with a rifle to kill them, as they must be killed 
dead, for as long as life exists they continue to work 
into their cells. It is extremely dangerous to pass 
through their towns, as they abound with rattlesnakes, 
both of the yellow and black species; and strange as it 
may appear, I have seen the wishtonwish, the rattle- 
snake, the horn frog, with which the prairie abounds 
(termed by the Spaniards the cammellion, from their 
taking no visible sustenance), and a land-tortoise, all 
take refuge in the same hole. I do not pretend to assert 
that it was their common place of resort; but I have 
witnessed the above facts in more than one instance. 

'^Sunday, Oct. 26th. Delivered out a ration of corn 
by way of distinction of the Sabbath. Preparing for 
our departure. 

"Oct. 2jth. Delivered to Lieutenant Wilkinson let- 
ters for the general and our friends, with other papers, 
consisting of his instructions, traverse tables of our 
voyage, and a draught of our route complete, in order 
that if we were lost, and he arrived in safety, we might 
not have made the tour without some benefit to our 
country. He took with him, in corn and meat, 21 days 
provisions, and all the necessary tools to build canoes 
or cabins. Launched his canoes. We concluded we 
would separate in the morning, he to descend and we 
to ascend to the mountains. 

''Oct. iSth. As soon as possible all was in motion, 
my party crossing the river to the north side, and 
Lieutenant Wilkinson launching his canoes of skin and 
wood. We breakfasted together, and then filed off; 



204 Zebulon M. Pike 

but I suffered my party to march, while I remained to 
see Lieutenant Wilkinson sail. This he did at ten 
o'clock, having one skin canoe, made of four buffalo 
skins and two elk skins, which held three men beside 
himself and one Osage. In his wooden canoe were 
one soldier, one Osage and their baggage; one other 
soldier marched on shore. We parted with 'God bless 
you' from both parties; they appeared to sail very well. 
In the pursuit of our party Dr. Robinson, Baroney, 
one soldier and myself, killed a brelau and a buffalo; 
of the latter we took only his marrow bones and liver. 
Arrived where our man had encamped about dusk. 
Distance 14 miles. 

"Oct. igth. Marched after breakfast and in the 
first hour's march passed two fires, where 21 Indians 
had recently encamped, in which party, by their paint- 
ings on the rocks, there were seven guns. Killed a 
buffalo, halted, made fire, and feasted on the choice 
pieces of meat. About noon discovered two horses 
feeding with a herd of buffalo; we attempted to sur- 
round them, but they soon cleared our fleetest coursers. 
One appeared to be an elegant horse. These were the 
first wild horses we had seen. Two or three hours be- 
fore night struck the Spanish road; and, as it was snow- 
ing, halted and encamped the party at the first woods 
on the bank of the river. The doctor and myself then 
forded it, the ice running very thick, in order to discover 
the course the Spaniards took; but owing to the many 
buffalo roads, could not ascertain it. It evidently ap- 
peared that they had halted here some time, as the 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 205 

ground was covered with horse-dung for miles around. 
Returned to camp. The snow fell about two inches 
deep, and then it cleared up. 

" Oct. 30/A. In the morning sent out to kill a buffalo, 
to have his marrow bones for breakfast, which was ac- 
complished. After breakfast the party marched up 
the north side; the doctor and myself crossed with con- 
siderable difficulty, on account of the ice to the Spanish 
camp, where we took a large circuit in order to discover 
the Spanish trace, and came in at a point of woods 
south of the river where we found our party encamped. 
We discovered also that the Spanish troops had marked 
the river up, and that a party of savages had been there 
not more than three days before. Killed two buffaloes. 
Distance 4 miles. 

"We observed this day a species of crystalHzation on 
the road, when the sun was high, in low places where 
there had been water settled; on tasting it found it to 
be salt; this gave in my mind some authenticity to the 
report of the prairie being covered for leagues. Dis- 
covered the trace of about 20 savages who had followed 
our road; and of horses going down the river. Killed 
one buffalo, one elk and one deer. 

"Nov. 1st. Marched early; just after commencing 
our line, heard a gun on our left. The doctor, Baroney 
and myself being in the advance, and lying on the ground 
waiting for our party, a band of cabrie came among 
our horses, to satisfy their curiosity; we could not 
resist the temptation of killing two, although we had 
plenty of meat. At the report of the gun they appeared 



2o6 Zebulon M. Pike 

astonished, and stood still until we hallowed to drive 
them away. Encamped in the evening on an island. 

"Upon using my glass to observe the adjacent coun- 
try, I observed a herd of horses. Dr. Robinson and 
Baroney accompanied me to go and view them; when 
within a quarter of a mile they discovered us, and came 
immediately up near us, making the earth tremble 
under them; this brought to my recollection a charge 
of cavalry. They stopped and gave us an opportunity 
to view them; among them there were some very beau- 
tiful bays, blacks, and grays, and indeed of all colors. 
We fired at a black horse, with an idea of creasing him, 
but did not succeed; they flourished round and returned 
again to see us, when we returned to camp. 

''Sunday, Nov. id. In the morning, for the purpose 
of trying the experiment, we equipped six of our fleetest 
coursers with riders and ropes, to noose the wild horses, 
if in our power to come among the band. They stood 
until we came within forty yards of them, neighing and 
whinneying, when the chase began, which we continued 
about two miles, without success. Two of our horses 
ran up with them; but we could not take them. Re- 
turned to camp. I have since laughed at our folly; for 
taking wild horses in that manner is scarcely ever at- 
tempted, even with the fleetest horses and most expert 
ropers. See my account of wild horses and the manner 
of taking them, in my dissertation on the province of 
Texas. Marched late. Killed one bufi^alo. River turned 
to north by west. Hills changed to the northside. Dis- 
tance 13I miles. 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 207 

"Nov. T,d. Marched at ten o'clock. Passed numer- 
ous herds of buffalo, elk, some horses, etc., all travelling 
south. The river bottoms full of salt meadows. Killed 
one buffalo. 

"Nov. ^th. This day brought to our recollection the 
fate of our countrymen at Recovery, when defeated by 
the Indians, in the year 1791. In the afternoon dis- 
covered the north side of the river to be covered with 
animals; which, when we came to them, proved to be 
buffalo cows and calves. I do not think it an exagger- 
ation to say there were 3,000 in one view. It is worthy 
of remark that in all the extent of country yet crossed, we 
never saw one cow, and that now the face of the earth 
appeared to be covered with them. Killed one buffalo. 
Distance 24I miles." 

When Pike made this allusion to the most disastrous 
defeat our army had ever suffered from the Indians on 
the Wabash River in Darke County, Ohio, under General 
Arthur St. Clair, he was camping a little west of the 
town of Ingalls in Gray County, Kansas. After leaving 
Fort Larned, following the Spanish route on the north 
side of the Arkansas River, according to his mileage 
he made his first camp near the town of Garfield, the 
second camp in the vicinity of Kingsley, and the third 
near the boundary line between Ford and Kiowa Coun- 
ties. He then marched to Ford, where he notes the 
change in the character of the scenery. His next 
camp is at Dodge City, and after passing Ingalls — the 
camp of the date above — he halts at Garden City, 
again near Hartland, and his last day's camp in Kan- 



2o8 Zebulon M. Pike 

sas was at Coolidge on the border line on November 
the eleventh. 

''Nov. ^th. Marched at our usual hour; at the end 
of two miles shot a buffalo and two deer, and halted, 
which detained us so long that we foolishly concluded 
to halt this day and kill some cows and calves, which lay 
on the opposite side of the river. I took post on a hill, 
and sent some horsemen over, when a scene took place 
which gave a lively representation of an engagement. 
The herd of buffalo being divided into separate bands 
covered the prairie with dust, and first charged on the 
one side, then to the other, as the pursuit of the horse- 
men impelled them; the report and smoke from the guns 
added to the pleasure of the scene, which in part com- 
pensated for our detention. 

"Nov. 6th. Marched early but was detained two or 
three hours by the cows we killed. The cow buffalo 
is equal to any meat I ever saw, and we feasted sumptu- 
ously on the choice morsels. I will not attempt to de- 
scribe the droves of animals we now saw on our route; 
suffice it to say that the face of the prairie was covered 
with them, on each side of the river; their number ex- 
ceeded imagination. Distance i6 miles." 

Of this abundance Pike elsewhere writes to his su- 
periors: 

"The borders of the Arkansaw river may be termed 
the terrestrial paradise of our territories for the wander- 
ing savages. Of all countries ever visited by the foot- 
steps of civilized man, there never was one probably 
that produced game in greater abundance. We know 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 209 

that the manners and morals of the erratic nations are 
such (the reasons I leave to be given by the ontologists) 
as never to give them a numerous population; and I 
believe that there are buffalo, elk, and deer sufficient 
on the banks of the Arkansaw alone, if used without 
waste, to feed all the savages in the United States terri- 
tory one century. 

"Nov. Sth. Our horses being very much jaded and 
our situation very eligible, we halted all day; jerked 
meat, mended mockinsons, etc. 

"Sunday, Nov. gth. Marched early. At twelve 
o'clock struck the Spanish road, which had been on 
the outside of us, and which appeared to be consider- 
ably augmented. On our arrival at the camp, found 
it to consist of 96 fires, from which a reasonable con- 
clusion might be drawn that there were from 600 to 700 
men. We this day found the face of the country con- 
siderably changed, being hilly, with springs; passed 
numerous herds of buffalo and some horses. 

"Nov. loth. The hills increased; the banks of the 
river covered with groves of young cottonwood; the 
river itself much narrower and crooked. Our horses 
growing weak; two gave out; bring them along empty; 
cut down trees at night for them to browse on. Killed 
one buffalo. Distance 20 miles. 

"Nov. nth. Marched at the usual hour. Passed 
two old camps, and one of last summer, which had be- 
longed to the savages, and we supposed Tetaus. Passed 
a Spanish camp where it appeared they remained some 
days, as we conjectured, to lay up meat, previously to 



2IO Zebulon M. Pike 

entering the Tetau country, as the buffalo evidently 
began to grow much less numerous. Finding the im- 
possibility of performing the voyage in the time pro- 
posed, I determined to spare no pains to accomplish 
every object, even should it oblige me to spend another 
w^inter in the desert. Killed one buffalo, one brelaw. 

"Nov. iph. Marched at the usual hour. The river 
banks began to be entirely covered with woods on both 
sides, but no other species than cottonwood. Discov- 
ered very fresh signs of Indians, and one of our hunters 
informed me he saw a man on horseback, ascending a 
ravine on our left. Discovered signs of war parties 
ascending the river. Wounded several buffalo. Killed 
one turkey, the first we have seen since we left the 
Pawnees. 

"Nov. i\th. In the morning Dr. Robinson, one man, 
and myself went up a ravine in which the man was 
supposed to have been seen, but could make no im- 
portant discovery. Marched at two o'clock; passed a 
point of red rocks and one large creek. Distance lo 
miles. 

"Nov.iyh. Marched early. Passed two deep creeks 
and many high points of rocks; also, large herds of buf- 
falo. 

"At two o'clock in the afternoon I thought I could 
distinguish a mountain to our right, which appeared like 
a small blue cloud; viewed it with the spy glass, and 
was still more confirmed in my conjecture, yet only com- 
municated it to Dr. Robinson, who was in front with 
me; but in half an hour they appeared in full view before 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 211 

us. When our small party arrived on the hill they 
with one accord gave three cheers to the Mexican moun- 
tains. Their appearance can easily be imagined by 
those who have crossed the Alleghenies; but their sides 
were whiter, as if covered with snow, or a white stone. 
Those were a spur of the grand western chain of moun- 
tains which divide the waters of the Pacific from those 
of the Atlantic ocean; and it [the spur] divides the 
waters which empty into the Bay of the Holy Spirit 
from those of the Mississippi, as the Alleghenies do 
those which discharge themselves into the latter river 
and the Atlantic. They appear to present a natural 
boundary between the province of Louisiana and New 
Mexico, and would be a defined and natural boundary." 

Pike's party has now reached Purgatory River, which 
he calls the *' first fork" and has his first glimpse of 
the Rocky Mountains. On the north is the main 
range with Pike's Peak towering high, and on the south 
that branch known as the Sangre de Cristo range. His 
next camp is near the town of Rocky Ford; he halts 
again where the Apishapa empties into the Arkansas; 
and makes camp the third night at Nepesta. The 
party does not advance rapidly, owing not only to the 
fatigue of the horses, but to the leader's anxiety concern- 
ing the Spanish trail, and to the evident traces of an 
Indian war party. 

"Sunday, Nov. l6th. After ascertaining that the 
Spanish troops had ascended the right branch or main 
river, we marched at two o'clock. The Arkansaw ap- 
peared at this place to be much more navigable than 



212 Zebulon M. Pike 

below, where we first struck it; and for any impediment 
I have yet discovered in the river, I would not hesitate 
to embark in February at its mouth and ascend to the 
Mexican mountains, with crafts properly constructed. 
Distance iij miles. 

"Nov. ijth. Marched at our usual hour; pushed 
on with the idea of arriving at the mountains, but found 
at night no visible difference in their appearance from 
what we did yesterday. One of our horses gave out 
and was left in the ravine, not being able to ascend the 
hill; but I sent back for him and had him brought to 
the camp. 

''Nov. iSth. As we discovered fresh signs of the 
savages, we concluded it best to stop and kill some meat, 
for fear we should get into a country where we could not 
kill game. Sent out the hunters; walked myself to an 
eminence whence I took the courses to the different 
mountains, and a small sketch of their appearance. 
In the evening, found the hunters had killed without 
mercy, having slain 17 buffalo and wounded at least 
20 more. 

"Nov. igth. Having several buffalo brought in, 
gave out sufficient to last this month. I found it ex- 
pedient to remain and dry the meat, as our horses were 
getting weak, and the one died which was brought up 
on the 17th. Had a general feast of marrow-bones, 
136 of them furnishing the repast. 

"Nov. 20th. Marched at our usual hour; but as 
our horses' loads were considerably augmented by the 
death of one horse and the addition of 900 lbs. of meat, 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 213 

we moved slowly and made only 18 miles. Killed two 
buffalo and took some choice pieces. 

^^Nov. list. Marched at our usual hour; passed two 
Spanish camps, within three miles of each other. We 
again discovered the tracks of two men who had ascended 
the river yesterday. This caused us to move with 
caution; but at the same time increased our anxiety to 
discover them. The river was certainly as navigable 
here, and I think much more so than some hundred 
miles below; which I suppose arises from its flowing 
through a long course of sandy soil, which must absorb 
much of the water, and render it shoaler below than 
above, near the mountains. Distance 21 miles. 

''Nov. 22nd. Marched at our usual hour, and with 
rather more caution than usual. After having marched 
about five miles on the prairie, we descended into the 
bottom — the front only; when Baroney cried out 
*Voila un Savage!' We observed a number running 
from the woods toward us; we advanced to them, and 
on turning my head to the left I observed several running 
on the hill, as it were to surround us; one with a stand 
of color. This caused a momentary halt; but perceiv- 
ing those in front reaching out their hands, and without 
arms, we again advanced; they met us with open arms, 
crowding around to touch and embrace us. They ap- 
peared so anxious that I dismounted from my horse. 
In a moment a fellow had mounted him and was off. 
I then observed that the doctor and Baroney were in 
the same predicament. The Indians were embracing 
the soldiers. After some time tranquillity was so far 



214 Zebulon M. Pike 

restored, they having returned our horses all safe, as 
to enable us to learn they were a war party from the 
Grand Pawnees, who had been in search of the Tetaus; 
but not finding them, were now on their return. An 
unsuccessful war party, on their return home, are al- 
ways ready to embrace an opportunity of gratifying 
their disappointed vengeance on the first persons they 
meet. 

"Made for the woods and unloaded our horses, when 
the two partisans endeavored to arrange the party; it 
was with the greatest difficulty that they got them tran- 
quil, and not until there had been a bow or two bent on 
the occasion. When in some order, we found them to 
be 60 warriors, half with fire-arms, and half with bows, 
arrows, and lances. Our party was 16 total. In a 
short time they were arranged in a ring, and I took my 
seat between the two partisans; our colors were placed 
opposite each other; the utensils for smoking were 
paraded on a small seat before us; thus far all was well. 
1 then ordered half a carrot of tobacco, one dozen 
knives, 60 fire steels, and 60 flints to be presented them. 
They demanded ammunition, corn, blankets, kettles, 
etc., all of which they were refused, notwithstanding the 
pressing instances of my interpreter to accord to some 
points. The pipes yet lay unmoved, as if they were un- 
determined whether to treat us as friends or enemies; but 
after some time we were presented with a kettle of water, 
drank, smoked, and ate together. During this time Dr. 
Robinson was standing up to observe their actions, in 
order that we might be ready to commence hostilities 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 215 

as soon as they. They now took their presents and 
commenced distributing them, but some malcontents 
threw them away, by way of contempt. 

"We began to load our horses, when they encircled 
us and commenced stealing everything they could. 
Finding it v^^as difficult to preserve my pistols, I mounted 
my horse, when I found myself frequently surrounded; 
during which some were endeavoring to steal the pistols. 
The doctor was equally engaged in another quarter, and 
all the soldiers in their positions, in taking things from 
them. One having stolen my tomahawk, I informed 
the chief; but he paid no respect, except to reply that 
'they were pitiful.' Finding this, I determined to pro- 
tect ourselves, as far as was in my power, and the affair 
began to take a serious aspect. I ordered my men to 
take their arms and separate themselves from the sav- 
ages; at the same time declaring to them that I would 
kill the first man who touched our baggage. On which 
they commenced filing off immediately; we marched 
about the same time, and found they had made out to 
steal one sword, tomahawk, broad-ax, five canteens, 
and sundry other small articles. After leaving them, 
when I reflected on the subject, I felt myself sincerely 
mortified, that the smallness of my number obliged me 
thus to submit to the insults of lawless banditti, it being 
the first time a savage ever took anything from me with 
the least appearance of force. 

"After encamping at night the doctor and myself went 
about one mile back, and waylaid the road, determined 
in case we discovered any of the rascals pursuing us to 



21 6 Zebulon M. Pike 

steal our horses, to kill two at least; but after waiting 
behind some logs until some time in the night, and dis- 
covering no person, we returned to camp. Killed two 
buffalo and one deer. Distance 17 miles. 

^^ Sunday, Nov. 23^. Marched at ten o'clock; at 
one o'clock came to the third fork, on the south side, 
and encamped at night in the point of the grand forks. 
As the river appeared to be dividing itself into many 
small branches, and of course must be near its extreme 
source, I concluded to put the party in a defensible situ- 
ation, and ascend the north fork to the high point of the 
blue mountain, which we conceived would be one day's 
march, in order to be enabled, from its pinical to lay 
down the various branches and positions of the country. 
Killed five buffalo. Distance 19 miles. 

"Nov. 2\th. Early in the morning we cut down 14 
logs, and put up a breastwork five feet on three sides 
and the other thrown on the river. After giving the 
necessary orders for their government during my ab- 
sence, in case of our not returning, we marched at one 
o'clock, with an idea of arriving at the foot of the 
mountain; but found ourselves obliged to take up our 
night's lodging under a single cedar which we found in 
the prairie, without water and extremely cold. Our 
party besides myself consisted of Dr. Robinson, and 
Privates Miller and Brown. Distance 12 miles." 

Pike had now passed the Huerfano River in its junc- 
tion with the Arkansas, calling it the "second fork," 
and the St. Charles River which he terms the "third 
fork," and arrived at the "Grand forks," by which 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 217 

must be understood the junction of the Fountain River 
with the Arkansas, and the present site of the city of 
Pueblo. Here he erected his block-house, leaving a 
detachment of his men, and started up the Fountain 
River to the "high point of the blue mountain." This 
we now know as Pike's Peak, which he then considered 
to be but a day's march away. 

*'Nov. 2^th. Marched early, with an expectation of 
ascending the mountain, but was only able to encamp 
at its base, after passing over many small hills covered 
with cedars and pitch-pines. Our encampment was 
on a creek, where we found no water for several miles 
from the mountain; but near its base, found springs 
sufficient. Took a meridional observation, and the 
altitude of the mountain. Killed two buffalo. Dis- 
tance 22 miles. 

''Nov. 26th. Expecting to return to our camp the 
same evening, we left all our blankets and provisions 
at the foot of the mountain. Killed a deer of a new 
species and hung his skin on a tree with some meat. 
We commenced ascending; found it very difficult, being 
obliged to climb up rocks, sometimes almost perpendicu- 
lar; and after marching all day we encamped in a cave, 
without blankets, victuals, or water. We had a fine 
clear sky, while it was snowing at the bottom. On the 
side of the mountain we found only yellow and pitch- 
pine. Some distance up we found buffalo; higher still 
a new species of deer and pheasants. 

''Nov. zjth. Arose hungry, dry, and extremely sore, 
from the inequality of the rocks on which we had lain all 



2i8 ' Zebulon M. Pike 

night, but were amply compensated for toil by the sub- 
Hmity of the prospect below. The unbounded prairie 
was overhung with clouds, which appeared like the 
ocean in a storm, wave piled on wave and foaming, 
while the sky was perfectly clear where we were. Com- 
menced our march up the mountain, and in about one 
hour arrived at the summit of this chain. Here we 
found the snow middle-deep; no sign of beast or bird 
inhabiting this region. The thermometer, which stood 
at 9° above zero at the foot of the mountain, here fell 
to 4° below zero. The summit of the Grand Peak, 
which was entirely bare of vegetation and covered with 
snow, now appeared at the distance of 15 or 1 6 miles 
from us. It was as high again as what we had ascended, 
and it would have taken a whole day's march to arrive 
at its base, when I believe no human being could have 
ascended to its pinical. This, with the condition of 
my soldiers, who had only light overalls on, no stock- 
ings, and were in every way ill provided to endure the 
inclemency of the region; the bad prospect of killing 
anything to subsist on, with the further detention of 
two or three days which it must occasion, determined us 
to return. The clouds from below had now ascended 
the mountain and entirely enveloped the summit, on 
which rest eternal snows. We descended by a long, 
deep ravine, with much less difficulty than contemplated. 
Found all our baggage safe, but the provisions all de- 
stroyed. It began to snow, and we sought shelter under 
the side of a projecting rock, where we all four made a 
meal on one partridge and a piece of deer's ribs the 



Through Colorado to Pike's Peak 219 

ravens had left us, being the first we had eaten in that 
48 hours. 

"Nov. zSth. Marched at nine o'clock. Kept straight 
on down the creek to avoid the hills. At half past one 
o'clock shot two buffalo, when we made the first full 
meal we had made in three days. Encamped in a valley 
under a shelving rock. The land here very rich, and 
covered with old Tetau camps." 

The peak which Pike ascended is known to us as 
Cheyenne peak. "Grand Peak" now bears his name. 
It is not known by whom this was first applied. Gen- 
eral Fremont in the map of his explorations in 1843 
calls it Pike's Peak, and this was the name given it by 
the white people of the country many years before. 
Returning to his camp Pike came down Turkey Creek 
"to avoid the hills," halting at the old Comanche camps 
of the valley — for by the word Tetaus, which should 
be spelled Tetans, he refers to the Comanche tribe, 
whose acquaintance he is yet to make. 

" Sunday y Nov. 30/A. Marched at eleven o'clock; 
it snowed very fast, but my impatience to be moving 
would not permit my lying in camp. The doctor, 
Baroney and myself went to view a Tetau encampment, 
which appeared to be about two years old; and from 
their having cut down so large a quantity of trees to 
support their horses, we concluded there must have been 
at least 2000 souls. Passed several more in the course 
of the day; also one Spanish camp. This day came 
to the first cedar and pine. Killed two deer. Distance 
15 miles." 



CHAPTER VI 
IN THE MOUNTAINS OF COLORADO 

December ist, i8o6-February 26th, 1807 

"Monday, Dec. 1st. The storm still continuing with 
violence, we remained encamped; the snow by night 
was one foot deep. Our horses were obliged to scrape 
it away to obtain their miserable pittance, and to in- 
crease their misfortunes the poor animals were attacked 
by the magpies, which, attracted by the scent of their 
sore backs, alighted on them, and in defiance of their 
wincing and kicking, picked many places quite raw. 
The difficulty of procuring food rendered those birds 
so bold as to alight on our men's arms and eat meat 
out of their hands. One of our hunters went out, but 
killed nothing. 

''Dec. 2d. It cleared off in the night, and in the 
morning the thermometer stood at 17° below zero 
(Reaumer), being three times as cold as any morning 
we had yet experienced. We killed an old buffalo on 
the opposite side of the river, which here was so deep as 
to swim horses. Marched and found it necessary to 
cross to the north side, about two miles up, as the ridge 
joined the river. The ford was a good one, but the ice 
ran very bad, and two of the men got their feet frozen 



In the Mountains of Colorado 221 

before we could get accommodated with fire, etc. 
Secured some of our old buffalo and continued our 
march. The country being very rugged and hilly, one 
of our horses took a freak in his head and turned back, 
which occasioned three of our rear-guard to lie out all 
night; I was very apprehensive they might perish on 
the prairie. Distance 13 miles. 

"Dec. 3^. The weather moderating to 3° below zero, 
our absentees joined, one with his feet frozen, but were 
not able to bring up the horse. I sent two men back on 
horseback. The hardships of our last voyage had now 
begun; and had the climate only been as severe as the 
climate then was, some of the men must have perished, 
for they had no winter clothing. I wore myself cotton 
overalls, for I had not calculated on being out in that in- 
clement season of the year. 

" Dr. Robinson and myself, with assistants, went out 
and took the altitude of the north mountain, [Pike's 
Peak], on the base of a mile. The perpendicular height 
of this mountain, from the level of the prairie, was 10,581 
feet, and admitting that the prairie was 8,000 feet from 
the level of the sea, it would make the elevation of this 
peak, 18,581 feet; equal to some and surpassing the 
calculated height of others for the peak of Teneriffe, 
and falhng short of that of Chimborazo only 1,701 feet. 
Indeed, it was so remarkable as to be known to all the 
savage nations for hundreds of miles around, to be 
spoken of with admiration by the Spaniards of New 
Mexico, and to be the bounds of their travels N. W. 
In our wandering in the mountains it was never out of 



222 Zebulon M. Pike 

sight, except when in a valley, from the 14th of Novem- 
ber to the 27th of January. 

"After this, together with Sparks, we endeavored to 
kill a cow, but without effect. Killed two bulls, that 
the men might use their hides for mockinsons. Left 
Sparks out. On our return to camp found the men 
had got back with the strayed horse, but too late to 
march." 

''Dec. ^th. Marched at our usual hour. Passed 
one very bad place for falling rocks; had to carry our 
loads. Encamped on the main branch of the river, 
near the entrance of the South mountain. In the even- 
ing walked up the mountain. Heard 14 guns at camp 
during my absence, which alarmed me considerably; 
returned as quickly as possible and found that the cause 
of alarm was their shooting turkeys. Killed two buffa- 
loes and nine turkeys. Distance 20 miles." 

Pike's estimate of the height of Pike's Peak, it is now 
known, was too generous. The actual height is 14,147 
feet. 

He is now camping at Canon City, and from there 
in searching with the doctor for "the Spanish trace" 
discovers the Royal Gorge, now famous in the scenery 
of this country. Then with Dr. Robinson and Miller he 
went northward, camping on Ten Mile Creek near the 
town of Truro. Ascending the creek he entered South 
Park, making his pass between Ten Mile and Thirty 
Nine Mile Mountains, and camped on the South Platte 
River near Howbert. The party then marched up the 
South Platte, until finding it going too far north, struck 



In the Mountains of Colorado 223 

off near Hartsel, where he camped, and from there 
marched South, making Trout Creek Pass, where the 
Colorado Midland railroad now crosses and striking 
the Arkansas River again, which he mistook for the 
Red River at Buena Vista. From here he marched 
up the river until he came under the shadow of Mount 
Harvard, camping between Fisher and Riverside, and 
thence to the highest point the expedition reached on 
the Arkansas River, and Pike's nearest approach to the 
waters of the Pacific. 

''Dec. 6th. Sent out three different parties to hunt 
the Spanish trace, but without success. The doctor 
and myself followed the river into the mountain, where 
it was bounded on each side by the rocks of the moun- 
tain, 200 feet high, leaving a small valley of 50 or 60 
feet. Killed two buffaloes, two deer, one turkey. 

" Sun Jay, Dec. Jth. We again dispatched parties in 
search of the trace. One party discovered it, on the 
other side of the river, and followed it into the valley 
of the river at the entrance of the mountain, where they 
met two parties who were returning from exploring the 
two branches of the river, in the mountains; of which 
they reported that they had ascended until the river was 
merely a brook, bounded on both sides with perpendic- 
ular rocks, impracticable for horses ever to pass them; 
they had then crossed the river to the north side, and 
discovered, as they supposed, that the Spanish troops 
had ascended a dry valley to the right. On their return 
they found some rock-salt, samples of which were 
brought me. We determined to march the morrow to 



224 Zebulon M. Pike 

the entrance of the valley, there to examine the salt and 
the road. Killed one wildcat. 

*'Dec. Sth. On examining the trace found yester- 
day, conceived it to have been only a reconnoitering 
party, dispatched from the main body; and on analyz- 
ing the rock-salt, found it to be strongly impregnated 
with sulphur. There were some very strong sulphurated 
springs at its foot. Returned to camp; took with me 
Dr. Robinson and Miller, and descended the river, in 
order to discover certainly if the whole party had come 
by this route. Descended seven miles on the south 
side. Saw great quantities of turkeys and deer. 
Killed one deer. 

"Dec. gth. Before we marched killed a fine buck at 
our camp as he was passing. Found the Spanish camp 
about four miles below; and from every observation we 
could make, conceived they all ascended the river. Re- 
turned to camp, where we arrived about two o'clock. 
Found all well; would have moved immediately but 
four men were out reconnoitering. Killed three deer. 

"Dec. loth. Marched and found the road over the 
mountain excellent. Encamped in a dry ravine. 
Obliged to melt snow for ourselves and horses; and as 
there was nothing else to eat, was obliged to give them 
one pint of corn each. Killed one buffalo. 

"Dec. nth. Marched at ten o'clock, and in one 
mile struck a branch of the Arkansas on which the sup- 
posed Spaniards had encamped, where there was both 
water and grass. Kept up this branch, but was fre- 
quently embarrassed as to the trace; at three o'clock, 



In the Mountains of Colorado 225 

having no sign of it, haked and encamped, and went 
out to search it; found it about one mile to the right. 
Distance 15 miles. 

"Dec. I2th. Marched at nine o'clock. Continued 
up the same branch as yesterday. The ridges on our 
right and left appeared to grow lower, but mountains 
appeared on our flanks, through the intervals, covered 
with snow. Owing to the weakness of our horses, we 
made only 12 miles. 

"Dec. iph. Marched at the usual hour; passed 
large springs and the supposed Spanish camp; crossed 
at twelve o'clock a dividing ridge, and immediately fell 
on a small branch running N. 20° W. There being 
no appearance of wood, we left it and the Spanish trace 
to our right, and made for the hills to encamp. After 
the halt I took my gun and went out to see what dis- 
covery I could make. After marching about two miles 
north, fell on a river 40 yards wide, frozen over; which, 
after some investigation, I found ran northeast. This 
was the occasion of much surprise, as we had been taught 
to expect to meet with the branches of Red river, which 
should run southeast. Query: Must it not be the 
headwaters of the river Platte .? If so, the Missouri 
must run much more west than is generally represented; 
for the Platte is a small river, by no means presenting 
an expectation of so extensive a course. One horse 
gave out and was left. Distance 18 miles. 

" Sunday, Dec. i\th. Marched; struck the river, as- 
cended it four miles, and encamped on the north side. 
The prairie, being about two miles wide, was covered for 



226 Zebulon M. Pike 

at least six miles along the banks of the river with horse- 
dung and the marks of Indian camps, which had been 
made since cold weather, as was evident by the fires 
which were in the center of the lodges. The sign made 
by their horses was astonishing, and would have taken a 
thousand horses some months. As it was impossible to 
say which course the Spaniards had pursued, amongst 
this multiplicity of signs, we halted early, and discovered 
that they or the savages had ascended the river. We 
determined to pursue them, as the geography of the 
country had turned out to be so different from our ex- 
pectations. We were somewhat at a loss which course 
to pursue, unless we attempted to cross the snowcapped 
mountains to the southeast of us, which was almost im- 
possible. Burst one of our rifles, which was a great loss, 
as it made three guns which had burst; five had been 
broken on the march, and one of my men was now 
armed with my sword and pistols. Killed two buffa- 
loes. 

"Dec. i^th. After repairing our guns we marched, 
but were obliged to leave another horse. Ascended the 
river, both sides of which were covered with old Indian 
camps, at which we found corn-cobs. This induced us 
to believe that those savages, although erratic, must 
remain long enough in one position to cultivate this 
grain, or obtain it of the Spaniards. From their sign, 
they must have been extremely numerous, and pos- 
sessed vast numbers of horses. My poor fellows suf- 
fered extremely from cold, being almost naked. Dis- 
tance 10 miles. 



In the Mountains of Colorado 227 

"Dec. i6th. Marched up the river about two miles 
and killed a buffalo; when, finding no road up the 
stream, we halted and dispatched parties in different 
courses, the doctor and myself ascending high enough 
to enable me to lay down the course of the river into the 
mountains. From a high ridge we reconnoitered the 
adjacent country, and concluded, putting the Spanish 
trace out of the question, to bear our course southwest 
for the head of Red river. One of our party found a 
large camp, which had been occupied by at least 3000 
Indians with a large cross in the middle. Query: Are 
those people Catholics ? 

"Dec. iSth. Marched and crossed the mountain 
which lay southwest of us; in a distance of seven miles 
arrived at a small spring. Some of our lads observed 
that they supposed it to be Red river, to which I gave 
very little credit. On entering a gap in the next moun- 
tain came past an excellent spring, which formed a fine 
creek. This we followed through narrows in the moun- 
tains for about six miles. Found many evacuated 
camps of Indians, the latest yet seen. After pointing 
out the ground for the encampment, the doctor and 
myself went on to make discoveries, as was our usual 
custom, and in about four miles we struck what we 
supposed to be the Red river, which here was about 
25 yards wide, ran with great rapidity, and was full of 
rocks. We returned to the party with the news, which 
gave general pleasure. Determined to remain a day 
or two in order to determine the source. Snowing. 
Distance 18 miles. 



228 Zebulon M. Pike 

"Dec. 20th. Having found a fine place for pasture on 
the river, sent our horses down to it with a guard; also, 
three parties out hunting, all of whom returned without 
success. Took an observation. As there was no pros- 
pect of killing any game, it was necessary that the party 
should leave that place. I therefore determined that 
the doctor and Baroney should descend the river in the 
morning; that myself and two men would ascend; and 
that the rest of the party should descend after the 
doctor, until they obtained provisions and could wait 
for me. 

"Sunday, Dec. 2ist. The doctor and Baroney 
marched; the party remained for me to take a meri- 
dional observation; after which we separated. My- 
self and the two men who accompanied me, Mountjoy 
and Miller, ascended 12 miles and encamped on the 
north side. 

"Dec. 22d. Marched up 13 miles, to a large point 
of the mountain, whence we had a view of at least 35 
miles, to where the river entered the mountains; it be- 
ing at that place not more than 10 or 15 feet wide, and 
properly speaking, only a brook. From this place, 
after taking the course and estimating the distance, we 
returned to our camp of last evening. Killed one tur- 
key and a hare. 

"Dec. 23^. Marched early, and at two o'clock dis- 
covered the trace of our party on the opposite side of the 
river, forded it, although extremely cold, and marched 
until some time in the night, when we arrived at the 
second night's encampment of our party. Our clothing 



In the Mountains of Colorado 229 

was frozen stiff, and we ourselves considerably be- 
numbed. 

'^ Dec. 2\th. The party's provisions extended only to 
the 23rd, and their orders were not to halt until they 
killed some game, and then wait for us; consequently 
they might have been considerably advanced. About 
eleven o'clock met Dr. Robinson on the prairie, who 
informed me that he and Baroney had been absent 
from the party two days without killing anything, also 
without eating; but that ovv^t night they had killed four 
buffaloes, and that he was in search of the men. I suf- 
fered the two lads with me to go to the camp where the 
meat was, as we had also been nearly two days without 
eating. The doctor and myself pursued the trace and 
found them encamped on the river-bottom. Sent out 
horses for the meat. Shortly afterwards Sparks arrived 
and informed us he had killed four cows. Thus, from 
being in a starving condition, we had eight beeves in our 
camp. 

"We now again found ourselves all assembled to- 
gether on Christmas Eve, and appeared generally to be 
content, although all the refreshment we had to celebrate 
that day with was buffalo meat, without salt, or any 
other thing whatever. My little excursion up the river 
had been in order to establish the geography of the 
sources of the supposed Red river. As I well knew that 
the indefatigable researches of Dr. Hunter, Dunbar, and 
Freeman had left nothing unnoticed in the extent of 
their voyage up said river, I determined that its upper 
branches should be equally well explored. In this 



230 Zebulon M. Pike 

voyage I had already ascertained the sources of the 
Osage and White rivers, been round the head of the 
Kans river, and on the headwaters of the Platte. 

"Dec. 2^th. It being stormy weather and having 
meat to dry, I concluded to lie by this day. Here I 
must take the liberty of observing that, in this situation, 
the hardships and privations we underwent were on 
this day brought more fully to our mind, having been 
accustomed to some degree of relaxation, and extra 
enjoyments. But here, 800 miles from the frontiers of 
our country, in the most inclement season of the year 
— not one person clothed for the winter — many without 
blankets, having been obliged to cut them up for socks, 
etc., and now lying down at night on the snow or wet 
ground, one side burning whilst the other was pierced 
with the cold wind — such was in part the situation of 
the party, whilst some were endeavoring to make a 
miserable substitute of raw buffalo hide for shoes, etc. 
I will not speak of diet, as I conceive that to be beneath 
the serious consideration of a man on a voyage of such 
a nature. We spent the days as agreeably as could be 
expected from men in our situation. Caught a bird of 
a new species, having made a trap for him. This bird 
was a green color, almost the size of a quail, had a small 
tuft on its head like a pheasant, and was of the carnivo- 
rous species; it differed from any bird we ever saw in the 
United States. We kept him with us in a small wicker 
cage, feeding him on meat, until I left the interpreter on 
the Arkansas with whom I left it. We at one time took 
a companion of the same species and put them in the 



In the Mountains of Colorado 231 

same cage, when the first resident never ceased attack- 
ing the stranger until he killed him." 

From this Christmas camp, which seems to have 
been in the neighborhood of Brown Canon, not far 
from Salida, Pike and his party began the descent of 
the Arkansas, now skirting the Sangre de Cristo moun- 
tains to which he alludes. This detour made by Pike, 
Dr. Robinson and his men through South Park and up 
to the headwaters of the Arkansas was full of incredible 
suffering, cold, hunger, and terrible fatigues both for the 
men and their horses. But of this the diary, from the 
restraint Pike puts upon himself in personal matters, 
gives but a meagre account. These perils continued 
until the expedition reached the old camp at Canon 
City, where Pike rejoined his men. 

''Dec. 26th. Marched at two o'clock, and made 7 
miles to the entrance of the mountains. On this piece 
of prairie the river spreads considerably and forms sev- 
eral small islands; a large stream enters from the South. 
As my boy and some others were sick, I omitted pitching 
our tent in order that they might have it; in consequence 
of which we were completely covered with snow on top, 
as well as that part on which we lay. 

"Dec. 2'jth. Marched over an extremely rough road; 
our horses received frequent falls, and cut themselves 
considerably on the rocks. From there being no roads 
of buffalo, or signs of horses, I am convinced that neither 
those animals, nor the aborigines of the country, ever 
take this route, to go from the source of the river to the 
mountains; but that they must cross one of the chains 



232 Zebulon M. Pike 

to the right or left, and find a smoother tract in the 
lower country. Were obliged to unload our horses, 
and carry our baggage at several places. Distance 12^ 
miles. 

**Sundayy Dec. 2Sth. Marched over an open space; 
and from the appearance before us concluded we were 
going out of the mountains; but at night encamped at 
the entrance of the most perpendicular precipices on 
both sides, through which the river ran and our course 
lay. Distance 16 miles. 

"Dec. 2gth. Marched; but owing to the extreme 
ruggedness of the road, made but five miles. Saw one 
of a new species of animal on the mountains; ascended 
to kill him, but did not succeed. Finding the impossi- 
bility of getting along with the horses, made one sled, 
with which the men of three horses carry the load. 

*'Dec. ^oth. Marched; but at half past one o'clock 
were obliged to halt and send back for sled loads, as 
the men had broken it and could not proceed, owing to 
the waters running over the ice. Crossed our horses 
twice on the ice. Distance eight miles. 

"Dec. 3IJ'/. Marched; had frequently to cross the 
river on the ice; horses falling down, we were obliged 
to pull them over on the ice. The river turned so much 
to the north as almost induced us to believe it was the 
Arkansaw. Distance io| miles. 

"Jan. isty 1807. The doctor and one man marched 
early, in order to precede the party until they should kill 
a supply of provision. We had great difficulty in getting 
our horses along, some of the poor animals having nearly 



In the Mountains of Colorado 233 

killed themselves in falling on the ice. Found on the 
way one of the mountain rams, which the doctor and 
Brown had killed and left in the road. Skinned it with 
horns, etc. At night ascended a mountain, and dis- 
covered a prairie ahead about eight miles, the news of 
which gave great joy to the party. 

''Jan. 2d. Labored all day, but made only one mile; 
many of our horses were much wounded in falling on 
the rocks. Provision growing short, left Stoute and 
Miller with two loads, to come on with a sled on the ice, 
which was on the water in some of the coves. Finding 
it almost impossible to proceed any further with the 
horses by the bed of the river, ascended the mountain 
and immediately after were again obliged to descend an 
almost perpendicular side of the mountain; in effecting 
which, one horse fell down the precipice, and bruised 
himself so miserably that I conceived it mercy to cause 
the poor animal to be shot. Many others were nearly 
killed with falls received. Left two more men with 
loads, and tools to make sleds. The two men we had 
left in the morning had passed us. 

"Jan. 3^. Left two more men to make sleds and 
come on. We pursued the river, and with great diffi- 
culty made six miles by frequently cutting roads on the 
ice, and covering it with earth, in order to go round 
precipices, etc. The men left in the morning encamped 
with us at night; but those of the day before we saw 
nothing of. This day two of the horses became sense- 
less from the bruises received on the rocks, and were 
obliged to be left. 



234 Zebulon M. Pike 

" Sunday y Jan. ^th. We made the prairie about three 
o'clock, when I detached Baroney and two soldiers 
with the horses, in order to find some practicable way 
for them to get out of the mountains light. I then di- 
vided the others into two parties of two men each, to 
make sleds and bring on the baggage. I determined to 
continue down the river alone, until I could kill some 
sustenance, and find the two men who left us on the 
2d inst., or the doctor and his companion; for we had 
no provision, and everyone had then to depend on his 
own exertion for safety and subsistence. Thus we were 
divided into eight different parties, viz.: 1st. The 
doctor and his companion; 2d. The two men with the 
first sled; 3d. The interpreter and the two men with 
the horses; 4th. Myself; 5th, 6th, 7th, 8th, two men 
each, with sleds at different distances; all of whom, ex- 
cept the last, had orders, if they killed any game, to 
secure some part in a conspicuous place, for their com- 
panions in the rear. I marched about five miles on the 
river, which was one continued fall through a narrow 
channel, with immense cliffs on both sides. Near night 
I came to a place where the rocks are perpendicular on 
both sides, and there was no ice, except a narrow border 
on the water. I began to look about, in order to dis- 
cover which way the doctor and his companion had 
managed, and to find out what had become of the two 
lads with the first sled, when I discovered one of the 
latter climbing up the side of the rocks. I called to him; 
he and his companion immediately joined me. They 
said they had not known whether we were before or in 




'LABORED ALL DAY, BUT MADE ONLY ONE MILE." 



In the Mountains of Colorado 235 

the rear; they had eaten nothing for the last two days, 
and that this night they had intended to have boiled a 
deer-skin to subsist on. We at length discovered a 
narrow ravine, where was the trace of the doctor and 
his companion; as the water had run down it and 
frozen hard, it was one continuous sheet of ice. We 
ascended it with the utmost difficulty and danger, loaded 
with baggage. On the summit of the first ridge we 
found an encampment of the doctor, and where they 
had killed a deer, but they now had no meat. He after- 
ward informed me that they had left the greater part 
hanging on a tree, but supposed the birds had destroyed 
it. I left the boys to bring up the remainder of the 
baggage, and went out to kill some subsistence; wounded 
a deer, but the darkness of the night approaching could 
not find him. I returned hungry, weary, dry, and had 
only snow to supply the calls of nature. Distance 8 
miles. 

''Jan. ^th. I went out in the morning to hunt, while 
the two lads were bringing up some of their loads still 
left at the foot of the mountain. Wounded several deer, 
but was surprised to find that I killed none. On ex- 
amining my gun discovered her bent, owing, as I sup- 
pose, to some fall on the ice or rocks ; shortly afterward 
received a fall on the side of a hill, which broke her off 
by the breach. This put me into desespoir, as I calcu- 
lated on it as my grandest resource for the greatest part 
of my party; returned to my companions sorely fatigued 
and hungry. I then took a double-barreled gun and 
left them, with assurances that the first animal I killed, 



236 Zebulon M. Pike 

I would return with part for their relief. About ten 
o'clock rose the highest summit of the mountain, when 
the unbounded spaces of the prairie again presented 
themselves to my view; and from some distant peaks I 
immediately recognized it to be the outlet of the Ar- 
kansaw which we had left nearly a month since. This 
was a great mortification; but at the same time I con- 
soled myself with the knowledge I had acquired of the 
sources of La Platte and Arkansas rivers, with the river 
to the northwest, supposed to be the Pierre Jaun, which 
scarcely any person but a madman would ever purposely 
attempt to trace further than the entrance of those 
mountains which had hitherto secured their sources from 
the scrutinizing eye of civilized man. 

*' I arrived at the foot of the mountain and bank of 
the river, in the afternoon, and at the same time dis- 
covered, on the other shore, Baroney with the horses; 
they had found quite an eligible pass through, and had 
killed one buffalo and some deer. We proceeded to 
our old camp, which we left the loth of December and 
reoccupied it. Saw the traces of the doctor and his 
companion but could not discover their retreat. This 
was my birthday, and most fervently hope never to pass 
another so miserably. Fired a gun off as a signal to the 
doctor. Distance seven miles. 

"Jan. 6th. Dispatched the two soldiers back with 
some provision to meet the first lads and assist them on 
and sent the interpreter hunting. About eight o'clock 
the doctor came in, having seen some of the men. He 
had been confined to the camp for one or two days, by 



In the Mountains of Colorado 237 

a vertigo which proceeded from some berries he had 
eaten on the mountains. His companion brought down 
six deer, which they had at their camp; thus we again 
began to be out of danger of starving. In the afternoon 
some of the men arrived and part were immediately re- 
turned with provisions, etc. Killed three deer. 

"Jan. Jth. Sent more men back to assist in the rear 
and to carry the poor fellows provisions; at the same 
time kept Baroney and one man hunting. Killed three 
deer. 

'^ Jan. Sth. Some of the different parties arrived. 
Put one man to stocking my rifle; others were sent back 
to assist up the rear. Killed two deer. 

"Jan. gth. The whole party were once more joined 
together, when we felt comparatively happy, notwith- 
standing the great mortification I experienced at having 
been so egregiously deceived as to the Red river. I 
now felt at considerable loss how to proceed, as any idea 
of services at that time from my horses was entirely pre- 
posterous. After various plans formed and rejected, 
and the most mature deliberation, I determined to build 
a small place for defense and deposit; leave part of the 
baggage, horses, my interpreter, and one man; and with 
the balance, our packs of Indian presents, ammuni- 
tion, tools, etc., on our backs, cross the mountains on 
foot, find the Red river, and then send back a party to 
conduct the horses and baggage by the most eligible 
route we could discover; by which time the horses 
would be so recovered as to be able to endure the fatigues 
of the march. In consequence of this determination, 



238 Zebulon M. Pike 

some were put to constructing the blockhouse, some to 
hunting, some to taking care of horses, etc. I myself 
made preparations to pursue a course of observations 
which would enable me to ascertain the latitude and 
longitude of this situation, which I conceived to be an 
important one. Killed three deer." 

Thus ended this perilous journey, unfortunately 
undertaken in midwinter. None of the parties suc- 
ceeded in getting through the canon, which the railroad 
has now made so familiar. Pike alone attempted the 
Royal Gorge; and got half way through, but failed to 
get further. Scrambling through a side canon to the 
North he climbed Noonan's Peak which overlooks 
Canon City, and from there discovered his old camp. 
The doctor and his man came the same way; while 
Baroney with the horses came by way of Webster Park 
and had an easier journey. It was three days before all 
the party got in. In Pike's recapitulation of what he 
had accomplished, he is mistaken in his belief that he 
had sighted the sources of the Yellowstone. The 
river north of him was the Grand River, the Yellow- 
stone being much further north. 

Four days were now occupied in preparing for the 
journey southward, and by Pike in making his obser- 
vations to determine his position, and in separating 
and rearranging his baggage. At the block-house he 
determined to leave one man, Patrick Smith, and the 
faithful Baroney, whom in a letter to General Wilkin- 
son, Pike calls "one of the finest young men, I ever 
knew in his situation," and "as firm an American as if 



In the Mountains of Colorado 239 

born one." On January 14th the party, consisting of 
Pike, Dr. Robinson and twelve soldiers, each carrying 
an average of seventy pounds, started up Grape Creek 
toward the Sangre de Cristo mountains, through Wet 
Mountain Valley which he calls Blue, on a journey, the 
perils of which can scarcely be realized from the diary's 
meagre statements. 

''Jan. i^th. Followed up this branch, and passed 
up the main ridge of what I term the Blue mountains. 
Halted early. The doctor, myself, and one hunter went 
out with our guns; each killed a deer, and brought them 
into camp. Distance 19 miles. 

"Jan. \6th. Marched up the creek all day. En- 
camped early, as it was snowing. I went out to hunt, 
but killed nothing. Deer on the hill; the mountains 
lessening. Distance 18 miles. 

"Jan. ijth. Marched about four miles, when the 
great White mountain presented itself before us, in sight 
of which we had been for more than one month, and 
through which we supposed lay the long-sought Red 
river. We now left the creek on the north of us, and 
bore away more east, to a low place in the mountains. 
About sunset we came to the edge of a prairie which 
bounded the foot of the mountains. As there was no 
wood or water where we were, and the woods from the 
skirts of the mountains appeared to be at no great dis- 
tance, I thought proper to march for it; in the middle 
of said prairie crossed the creek which now bore east. 
Here we all got our feet wet. The night commenced 
extremely cold, when we halted at the woods at eight 



240 Zebulon M. Pike 

o'clock, for encampment. After getting fires made, we 
discovered that the feet of nine of our men were frozen; 
and, to add to this misfortune, both of those whom we 
called hunters were among the number. This night we 
had no provision. Reaumur's thermometer stood at 
i8|° below zero. Distance 28 miles. 

"Sundayy Jan. iSth. We started two of the men 
least injured; the doctor and myself, who fortunately 
were untouched by the frost, also went out to hunt 
something to preserve existence. Near evening we 
wounded a buffalo with three balls, but had the morti- 
fication to see him run off notwithstanding. We con- 
cluded it was useless to go home to add to the gen- 
eral gloom, and went amongst some rocks, where 
we encamped and sat up all night; from the intense 
cold it was impossible to sleep. Hungry and without 
cover. 

''Jan. igth. We again took the field, and after 
crawling about one mile in the snow, got to shoot eight 
times among a gang of buffalo; we could plainly per- 
ceive two or three to be badly wounded, but by accident 
they took the wind of us, and to our great mortification 
all were able to run off. By this time I had become ex- 
tremely weak and faint, it being the fourth day since we 
had received sustenance, all of which we were marching 
hard, and the last night had scarcely closed our eyes to 
sleep. We were inclining our course to a point of woods 
determined to remain absent and die by ourselves rather 
than return to our camp and behold the misery of our 
poor lads, when we discovered a gang of buffalo com- 



In the Mountains of Colorado 241 

ing along at some distance. With great exertions I 
made out to run and place myself behind some cedars. 
By the greatest of good luck, the first shot stopped one, 
which we killed in three more shots; and by the dusk 
had cut each of us a heavy load, with which we de- 
termined immediately to proceed to camp, in order to 
relieve the anxiety of our men and carry the poor fel- 
lows some food. 

"We arrived there about twelve o'clock, and when I 
threw my load down, it was with difficulty I prevented 
myself from faUing. I was attacked by giddiness of 
the head which lasted some minutes. On the counte- 
nances of the men there was not a frown, nor a despond- 
ing eye; all seemed happy to hail their officer and com- 
panion, yet not a mouthful had they eaten for four 
days. On demanding what were their thoughts the 
sergeant replied that on the morrow the more robust 
had determined to set out in search of us and not re- 
turn unless they found us, or killed something to preserve 
the lives of their starving companions. 

^' Jan. 20th. The doctor and all the men able to 
march returned to the .buffalo to bring the balance of 
the meat. On examining the feet of those who were 
frozen we found it impossible for two of them to proceed, 
and two others only without loads, by the help of a stick. 
One of the former was my waiter, a promising young 
lad of twenty, whose feet were so badly frozen as to 
present every possibility of losing them. The doctor 
and party returned toward evening, loaded with the 
buffalo meat. 



242 Zebulon M. Pike 

'^ Jan. 2ist. This day we separated the four loads 
which we intended to leave, and took them some dis- 
tance from camp, where we secured them. I went up 
to the foot of the mountain to see what prospect there 
was of being able to cross it, but had not more than 
fairly arrived at its base when I found the snow four or 
five feet deep; this obliged me to determine to proceed 
and cbtoyer the mountain [keep alongside the base of the 
Sangre de Cristo range] to the south, where it appeared 
lower, until we found a place where we could cross. 

"Jan. 22nd. I furnished the two poor lads, who 
were to remain with ammunition, made use of every 
argument in my power to encourage them to have forti- 
tude to resist their fate, and gave them assurance of 
my sending relief as soon as possible. We parted, but 
not without tears. 

"We pursued our march, taking merely sufficient 
provisions for one meal, in order to leave as much as 
possible for the two poor fellows who remained. They 
were John Sparks and Thomas Dougherty. We went 
on eight miles and encamped on a little creek, which 
came down from the mountains. At three o'clock went 
out to hunt but killed nothing. Little snow. 

''Jan. 2^rJ. After showing the sergeant a point to 
steer for, the doctor and myself proceeded on ahead in 
hopes to kill something, as we were again without vict- 
uals. About one o'clock it commenced snowing hard; 
we retreated to a small copse of pine, where we con- 
structed a camp to shelter us; and, as it was time the 
party should arrive, we sallied forth to search for them. 



In the Mountains of Colorado 243 

We separated, and had not marched more than one or 
two miles, when I found it impossible to keep my course 
without the compass continually in my hand, and then 
was not able to see more than 10 yards. I began to 
perceive the difficulty even of finding my way back to 
camp; and I can scarcely conceive a more dreadful 
idea than remaining on the wild, where inevitable 
death must have ensued. It was with great pleasure I 
again reached camp, where I found the doctor had 
arrived before me. We lay down and strove to dissi- 
pate the ideas of hunger and misery by the thought of 
our far distant homes and relatives. Distance eight 
miles. 

"Jan. 2^th. We sallied out in the morning, and 
shortly after perceived our little band marching through 
the snow about two feet and a half deep, silent and with 
downcast countenances. We joined them and learned 
that, finding the snow to fall so thickly that it was im- 
possible to proceed, they had encamped about one 
o'clock the preceding day. As I found all the buffalo 
had quit the plains, I determined to attempt the traverse 
of the mountain, in which we persevered until the snow 
became so deep that it was impossible to proceed; 
when I again turned my face to the plain, and for the 
first time in the voyage found myself discouraged. 

"This was also the first time I heard a man express 
himself in a seditious manner; he exclaimed that it 
was more than human nature could bear, to march three 
days without sustenance, through snows three feet deep, 
and carry burdens only fit for horses, etc. As I knew 



244 Zebulon M. Pike 

very well the fidelity and attachment of the majority of 
the men, and even of this poor fellow (only he could not 
endure fasting), and that it was in my power to chastise 
him when I thought proper, I passed it unnoticed for the 
moment, determined to notice it at a more auspicious 
time. 

"We dragged our weary and emaciated limbs along 
until about ten o'clock. The doctor and myself, who 
were in advance, discovered some buffalo on the plain, 
when we left our loads on the snow, and gave orders to 
proceed to the nearest woods to encamp. We went in 
pursuit of the buffalo, which were on the move. The 
doctor, who was then less reduced than myself, ran and 
got behind a hill and shot one down, which stopped the 
remainder. We crawled up to the dead one and shot 
from him as many as 12 or 14 times among the gang, 
when they removed out of sight. We then proceeded 
to butcher the one we had shot; and after procuring 
each of us a load of the meat, we marched for the camp, 
the smoke of which was in view. We arrived at the 
camp, to the great joy of our brave lads, who immedi- 
ately feasted sumptuously. 

"After our repast I sent for the lad who had pre- 
sumed to speak discontentedly in the course of the day, 
and addressed him to the following effect: 'Brown, 
you this day presumed to make use of language which 
was seditious and mutinous. I then passed it over, pity- 
ing your situation, and attributing it to your distress 
rather than your inclination to sow discontent among the 
party. Had I reserved provisions for ourselves, while 



In the Mountains of Colorado 245 

you were starving; had we been marching along Hght 
and at our ease, while you were weighed down with 
your burden; then you would have had some pretext 
for your observations. But when we were equally 
hungry, weary, emaciated, and charged with burdens 
which I believe my natural strength is less able to bear 
than any man's in the party; when we were always 
foremost in breaking the road, in reconnoitering, and 
in the fatigues of the chase, it was the height of ingrati- 
tude in you to let an expression escape which was indica- 
tive of discontent. Your ready compliance and firm 
perseverance I had reason to expect, as the leader of 
men and my companion in m.iseries and dangers. But 
your duty as a soldier called on your obedience to your 
officer, and a prohibition of such language, which for 
this time I will pardon; but assure you, should it ever 
be repeated, by instant death will I avenge your in- 
gratitude and punish your disobedience. I take this 
opportunity likewise to assure you, soldiers generally, 
of my thanks for the obedience, perseverance, and 
ready contempt of every danger which you have gener- 
ally evinced. I assure you nothing shall be wanting, 
on my part, to procure you the rewards of our govern- 
ment and the gratitude of your countrymen.' They 
all appeared very much affected, and retired with as- 
surances of perseverance in duty, etc. Distance nine 
miles. 

''Sunday^ Jan. 2^th. I determined never to march 
again with so little provision on hand; as, had the 
storm continued one day longer, the animals would 



246 Zebulon M. Pike 

have continued in the mountains; we would have be- 
come so weak as not to be able to hunt, and of course 
have perished. The doctor went out with the boys, 
and they secured three of the buffalo; we commenced 
bringing in the meat, at which we continued all day. 

''Jan. 26th. Got in all the meat and dried it on a 
scaffold, intending to take as much as possible along, 
and leave one of my frozen lads with the balance, as 
a deposit for the parties who might return for their bag- 
gage, etc., on their way back to Baroney's camp, 

"Jan. zjth. We marched determined to cross the 
mountains, leaving Menagh encamped with our deposit. 
After a bad day's march through snows, in some places 
three feet deep, we struck a brook which led west. 
This I followed down, and shortly came to a small 
stream, running west, which we hailed with fervency 
as the waters of Red river. Saw some sign of elk. Dis- 
tance 14 miles. 

''Jan. 2^th. Followed down the ravine and dis- 
covered after some time that a road had been cut out; 
on many trees were hieroglyphics painted. After march- 
ing some miles, we discovered through the lengthy 
vista at a distance, another chain of mountains; and 
near by at the foot of the White mountains which we 
were then descending, sandy hills. We marched on 
the outlet of the mountains, left the sandy desert to our 
right, and kept down between it and the mountain. 
When we encamped, I ascended one of the largest hills 
of sand, and with my glass could discover a large river 
flowing through the plain. This river came out of the 



In the Mountains of Colorado 247 

third chain of mountains, the prairie between the two 
mountains bore nearly N. and S. I returned to camp 
with the news of my discovery. The sand-hills ex- 
tended up and down the foot of the White mountains 
about 15 miles, and appeared to be about five miles in 
width. Their appearance was exactly that of the sea 
in a storm, except as to color, not the least sign of vege- 
tation existing thereon. Distance 15 miles." 

The exact route Pike took in crossing the Sangre de 
Cristo range, which he calls the White Mountains, has 
been a matter of discussion, as there are several passes he 
might have taken. A close study of the diary, and his 
mileage seems to warrant determining that it was near 
Blumenau in Fremont County that he left the unfort- 
unate Sparks and Dougherty. Crossing over into 
Custer County he camped near the present town of 
Silver Cliff. Skirting the Sangre de Cristo Mountains 
he crosses the divide into Huerfano County, where he 
comes upon the Huerfano River, and camps. From 
here everything points to the inference that he made the 
Sand Hill or Medano Pass, as it is variously called, de- 
scending into the San Luis Valley, whence he comes 
upon the Dunes, which he alludes to above as "the 
sandy hills," and discovers with his glass in the distance 
the Rio Grande. 

''Jan. igth. Finding the distance too great to attempt 
crossing immediately to the river, in a direct line, we 
marched obliquely to a copse of woods, which made 
down a considerable distance from the mountains. 
Saw sign of horses. Distance 17 miles. 



248 Zebulon M. Pike 

''Jan. ^ist. As there was no timber here we deter- 
mined on descending until we found timber, in order 
to make transports to descend the river with, where we 
might estabhsh a position that four or five might defend 
against the insolence, cupidity and barbarity of the 
savages, while the others returned to assist the poor 
fellows who had been left behind at various points. 
We descended 18 miles, when we met a large west 
branch emptying into the main stream, about five miles 
up which branch we took our station. Killed one deer. 
Distance 18 miles. 

"Sunday, Feb. 1st. Laid out the place for our works 
and went out hunting. 

"Feb. ^th. The doctor and myself went out to hunt. 
After chasing some deer for several hours, without suc- 
cess, we ascended a high hill which lay south of our 
camp, whence we had a view of all the prairies and 
rivers to the north of us. It was at the same time one 
of the most sublime and beautiful inland prospects ever 
presented to the eyes of man. The prairie, lying nearly 
north and south, was probably 60 miles by 45. The 
main river, bursting out of the western mountain, and 
meeting from the northeast a large branch which divides 
the chain of mountains, proceeds down the prairie, 
making many large and beautiful islands, one of which 
I judge contains 100,000 acres of land, all meadow 
ground, covered with innumerable herds of deer. 
About six miles from the mountains which cross the 
prairie at the south end, a branch of 12 steps wide pays 
its tribute to the main stream from the west course. 



In the Mountains of Colorado 249 

Four miles below is a stream of the same size, which 
enters on the east and up which was a large road; its 
general course is N. 65° E. From the entrance of this 
was about three miles, down to the junction of the west 
fork, which waters the foot of the hill on the north, 
while the main river wound along its meanders on the 
east. In short, this view combined the sublime and the 
beautiful. The great and lofty mountains, covered 
with eternal snows, seemed to surround the luxuriant 
vale, crowned with perennial flowers, like a terrestrial 
paradise shut out from the view of man. 

''Feb. 6th. The doctor, having some pecuniary de- 
mands in the province of New Mexico, conceived this to 
be the most eligible point for him to go in, and return 
previous to all my party having joined me from the 
Arkansaw, and that I was prepared to descend to Nachi- 
toches. He therefore this day made his preparations 
for marching to-morrow. I went out hunting, and 
killed at three miles' distance a deer which, with great 
difficulty, I brought in whole. We continued to go on 
with the works of our stockade or breastwork, which 
was situated on the north bank of the west branch, 
about five miles from its junction with the main river, 
and was on a strong plan. 

"The stockade was situated in a small prairie on the 
west fork of the Rio del Norte. The south flank joined 
the edge of the river, which at that place was not ford- 
able; the east and west curtains were flanked by bas- 
tions in the northeast and northwest angles, which like- 
wise flanked the curtain of the north side of the work. 



250 Zebulon M. Pike 



The stockade from the center of the angle of the bas- 
tions was 36 feet square. Heavy cottonwood logs, about 
two feet in diameter, were laid up all around about six 
feet, after which lighter ones, until we made it 12 
feet in height; these logs were joined together by a lap 
of about two feet at each end. We then dug a small 
ditch on the inside on the internal side and sloping next 
the work. In this ditch we planted small stakes, about 
six inches in diameter, sharpened at the upper end to a 
nice point, and slanted them over the top of the work, 
giving them about 2 feet projection. We then secured 
them above and below in that position, which formed 
a small pointed frise, which must have been removed 
before the works could be scaled. Lastly we had dug 
a ditch round the whole, four feet wide, and let the 
water in all round. The earth taken out, being thrown 
against the work formed an excellent rampart against 
small-arms three or four feet high. Our mode of get- 
ting in was to crawl over the ditch on a plank, and into 
a small hole sunk below the level of the work near the 
river for that purpose. Our port-holes were pierced 
about eight feet from the ground, and a platform was 
prepared to shoot from. Thus fortified I should not 
have had the least hesitation of putting 100 Spanish 
horse at defiance, until the second night, and then to 
have made our escape under cover of the darkness; or 
made a sally and dispersed them, when resting under 
a full confidence of our being panic-struck by their 
numbers and force." 

There have been many differences of opinion concern- 



In the Mountains of Colorado 251 

ing the precise location of Pike's stockade. He seems 
after skirting the Sierra Blanco to have struck the Rio 
Grande, which he thinks is the Red River, near Ala- 
mosa, v^here he halted. Finding no timber he marched 
down the west bank until he came to the Rio Conejos, 
which he calls "the large west branch." Here opposite 
Ojo Caliente, or hot spring, he built his fort, the moat 
of which, according to one of the older inhabitants, as 
late as 1894, could be still seen. 

"Feb. Jth. The doctor marched alone for Santa Fe; 
and as it was uncertain whether this gentleman would 
ever join me again, I at that time committed to paper 
the following testimonial of respect for his good quali- 
ties, which I do not at this time feel any disposition to 
efface. He had had the benefit of a liberal education, 
without having spent his time, as too many of our gen- 
tlemen do in college, in skimming on the surface of 
sciences, without ever endeavoring to make themselves 
masters of the solid foundations. Robinson studied and 
reasoned; with these qualifications he possessed a lib- 
erality of mind too great ever to reject an hypothesis 
because it was not agreeable to the dogmas of the 
schools; or adopt it because it had all the eclat of 
novelty. His soul could conceive great actions, and his 
hand was ready to achieve them; in short, it may truly 
be said that nothing was above his genius, nor any- 
thing so minute that he conceived it entirely unworthy 
of consideration. As a gentleman and companion in 
dangers, difficulties, and hardships, I in particular, and 
the expedition generally, owe much to his exertions. 



252 Zebulon M. Pike 

"The demands which Dr. Robinson had on per- 
sons in New Mexico, although legitimate, were in some 
degree spurious in his hands. The circumstances were 
as follows: In the year 1804, William Morrison, Esq., 
an enterprising merchant of Kaskaskias, sent a man by 
the name of Baptiste LaLande, a Creole of the country, 
up the Missouri and La Platte, directing him if possible 
to push into Santa Fe. He sent Indians and the Span- 
iards came out with horses and carried him and his 
goods into the province. Finding that he sold the goods 
high, had land offered him, and the women kind, he 
concluded to expatriate himself, and convert the prop- 
erty of Morrison to his own benefit. When I was about 
to sail, Morrison, conceiving that it was possible that I 
might meet some Spanish factors on the Red river, in- 
trusted me with the claim, in order, if they were ac- 
quainted with LaLande, I might negotiate the thing 
with some of them. When on the frontiers, the idea 
suggested itself to us of making this claim a pretext for 
Robinson to visit Santa Fe. We therefore gave it the 
proper appearance, and he marched for that place. 
Our views were to gain a knowledge of the country the 
prospect of trade, force, etc.; while, at the same time 
our treaties with Spain guaranteed to him, as a citizen 
of the United States, the right of seeking the recovery of 
all just debts or demands before the legal and author- 
ized tribunals of the country, as a franchised inhabitant 
of the same, as specified in the 22d article of said treaty. 

" In the evening I dispatched Corporal Jackson with 
four men, to recross the mountains, in order to bring in 



In the Mountains of Colorado 253 

the baggage left with the frozen lads, and to see if they 
were yet able to come on. This detachment left me 
with four men only, two of whom had their feet frozen; 
they were employed in finishing the stockade, and my- 
self to support them by the chase. 

^^ Sunday, Feb. Sth. Refreshing my memory as to 
the French grammar, and overseeing the works. 

"Feb. l^th. Crossed the river and examined the 
numerous springs which issued from the foot of the 
hill, opposite our camp. These were so strongly im- 
pregnated with mineral qualities, as not only to keep 
clear of ice previous to their joining the main branch, 
but to keep open the west fork until its junction with the 
main river and for a few miles afterward, while all the 
other branches in the neighborhood were bound in the 
adamantine chains of winter. 

"Feb. i6th. I took one man and went out hunting; 
about six miles from the post, shot and wounded a 
deer. 

"Immediately afterward I discovered two horsemen 
rising the summit of a hill, about half a mile to our right. 
As my orders were to avoid giving alarm or offense to 
the Spanish government of New Mexico, I endeavored 
to avoid them at first; but when we attempted to retreat, 
they pursued us at full charge, flourishing their lances; 
and when we advanced they would retire as fast as their 
horses could carry them. Seeing this, we got in a small 
ravine, in hopes to decoy them near enough to oblige 
them to come to a parley; which happened agreeably 
to our desires, as they came on, hunting us with great 



254 Zebulon M. Pike 

caution. We suffered them to get within 40 yards — 
where we had allured them; but they were about run- 
ning off again, when I ordered the soldier to lay down 
his arms and walk toward them, at the same time stand- 
ing ready with my rifle to kill either who should lift an 
arm in an hostile manner. I then hollowed to them 
that we were 'Americans,' and 'friends,' which were 
almost the only two words I knew in the Spanish lan- 
guage; when, with great signs of fear, they came up, 
and proved to be a Spanish dragoon and a civilized 
Indian, armed after their manner, of which we see a 
description in the Essai Militaire. We were jealous of 
our arms on both sides, and acted with great precaution. 

"They informed me that this was the fourth day 
since they had left Santa Fe; that Robinson had ar- 
rived there, and been received with great kindness by the 
governor. As I knew them to be spies, I thought proper 
to inform them merely that I was about to descend the 
river to Nachitoches. We sat on the ground a long 
time, till, finding they were determined not to leave us, 
we rose and bid them adieu. But they demanded where 
our camp was; and, finding they were not about to 
leave us, I thought it most proper to take them with me, 
thinking we were on Red river, and of course in the ter- 
ritory claimed by the United States. 

"We took the road to my fort, and as they were on 
horse-back, they traveled rather faster than myself; 
they were halted by the sentinel, and immediately re- 
treated much surprised. When I came up, I took them 
in and explained to them, as well as possible, my in- 



In the Mountains of Colorado 255 

tendon of descending the river to Nachitoches; but at 
the same time, I told them that if Governor Allencaster 
w^ould send out an officer with an interpreter who spoke 
French or English, I would do myself the pleasure to 
give his Excellency every reasonable satisfaction as to 
my intention in coming to his frontiers. They informed 
me on the second they would be in Santa Fe, but were 
careful never to suggest an idea of my being on the Rio 
del Norte, as they concluded I did not think as I spoke. 
They were very anxious to ascertain our numbers, 
etc.; seeing only five men here, they could not be- 
lieve we came without horses. To this I did not think 
proper to give them any satisfaction, giving them to 
understand we were in many parties, etc. 

"Feb. lyth. In the morning, our two Spanish visitors 
departed, after I had made them some trifling presents, 
with which they seemed highly delighted. After their 
departure, we commenced working at our little stockade, 
as I thought it probable the governor might dispute 
my right to descend the Red river, and send out In- 
dians, or some light party, to attack us; I therefore de- 
termined to be as much prepared to receive them as 
possible. 

"This evening the corporal and three of the men ar- 
rived, who had been sent back to the camp of the frozen 
lads. They informed me that the two men would ar- 
rive the next day, one of whom was Menaugh, who had 
been left alone on the 27th of January; but that the 
other two, Dougherty and Sparks, were unable to come 
in. They said that they had hailed them with tears of 



256 Zebulon M. Pike 

joy, and were in despair when they again left them, 
with the chance of never seeing them more. They sent 
on to me some of the bones taken out of their feet, and 
conjured me, by all that was sacred, not to leave them to 
perish far from the civilized world. Ah! little did they 
know my heart, if they could suspect me of conduct so 
ungenerous. No! before they should be left, I would 
for months have carried the end of a litter, in order to 
secure them the happiness of once more seeing their 
native homes, and being received in the bosom of a 
grateful country. Thus those poor lads are to be in- 
valids for life, made infirm at the commencement of 
manhood and in the prime of their course, doomed to 
pass the remainder of their days in misery and want. 
For what is a pension ? Not sufficient to buy a man his 
victuals. What man would even lose the smallest of 
his joints for such a pittance .? 

''Feb. i^th. The other two boys, Menaugh and the 
fourth member of the relief party arrived. In the even- 
ing I ordered the Sergeant and one man to prepare to 
march to-morrow for the Arkansas, where we had left 
our interpreter, horses, etc., to conduct them on, and 
on his return to bring the two lads, who were still in 
the mountains. 

"Feb. igth. Sergeant William Meek marched with 
one man whose name was Theodore Miller, and I took 
three men to accompany them some distance in order to 
point out to him a pass in the mountain which I con- 
ceived to be more eligible for horses than the one by 
which we came. I must here remark the effect of habit, 



In the Mountains of Colorado 257 

discipline, and example, in two soldiers soliciting a 
command of more than 180 miles, over two great ridges 
of mountains covered with snow, inhabited by bands of 
unknown savages, in the interest of a nation with which 
we were not on the best understanding. To perform this 
journey, each had about ten pounds of venison. Only 
let me ask. What would our soldiers generally think on 
being ordered on such a tour, thus equipped .? Yet 
those men volunteered it with others, and were chosen ; 
for which they thought themselves highly honored. 
We accompanied them about six miles, and pointed out 
the pass alluded to, in a particular manner. But the 
corporal afterward reported that the new one I obliged 
him to take was impassible, he having been three days 
in the snows nearly middle deep. 

"We then separated and, having killed a deer, sent 
one of the men back to the fort with it. With the 
other two, I kept on my exploring trip down the river on 
the east side, at some leagues from its banks, intending 
to return up it. At nine o'clock at night we encamped 
on a small creek which emptied into the river from a 
nearly due east course. 

"Feb. 20th. We marched down the river for a few 
hours; but, seeing no fresh signs of persons, or any 
other object to attract our attention, took up our route 
for the fort. Discovered the signs of horses and men 
on the shore. We arrived after night and found all 
well. 

"Feb. 2ist. As I was suspicious that possibly some 
party of Indians might be harboring round, I gave par- 



258 Zebulon M. Pike 

ticular orders to my men, if they discovered any people, 
to endeavor to retreat undiscovered; but, if not, never 
to run, and not suffer themselves to be disarmed or 
taken prisoners, but conduct whatever party discovered 
them, if they could not escape, to the fort. 

"Sunday, Feb. 22d. As I was beginning to think it 
was time we received a visit from the Spaniards or their 
emissaries, I estabhshed a lookout guard on the top of 
the hill all day, and at night a sentinel in a bastion on 
the land side. Studying, reading, working at our ditch 
to bring the river round the works. 

"Feb. 2\th. Took one man with me and went out 
on the Spanish road hunting; killed one deer and 
wounded several others. As we were a great distance 
from the fort, we encamped near the road all night. 
Saw several signs of horses. 

"Feb. zyh. Killed two more deer, when we marched 
for our post. Took all three of our deer with us, and 
arrived about nine o'clock at night, as much fatigued as 
I ever was in my life. Our arrival dissipated the anxi- 
ety of the men, who began to be apprehensive we were 
taken or killed by some of the savages. 

"Feb. 26th. In the morning was apprized of the 
approach of strangers by the report of a gun from my 
lookout guard. Immediately afterward two French- 
men arrived. My sentinel halted them, and ordered 
them to be admitted, after some questions. They in- 
formed me that his Excellency, Governor Allencaster, 
had heard it was the intention of the Utah Indians to 
attack me; had detached an officer with 50 dragoons to 



In the Mountains of Colorado 259 

come out and protect me; and that they would be here 
in two days. To this I made no reply: but shortly after 
the party came in sight, to the number, as I afterward 
learned, of 50 dragoons and 50 mounted militia of the 
province, armed in the same manner with lances, esco- 
pates (guns), and pistols. My sentinel halted them at the 
distance of about 50 yards. I had the works manned. 
I thought it most proper to send out the two Frenchmen 
to inform the commanding officer that it was my re- 
quest he should leave his party in the small copse of 
woods where he was halted, and that I would meet him 
myself in the prairie in which our work was situated. 
This I did, with my sword on me only. I was then in- 
troduced to Don Ignatio Saltelo and Don Bartholemew 
Fernandez, two lieutenants, the former the commandant 
of the party. I gave them an invitation to enter the 
works, but requested the troops might remain where 
they were. This was complied with. When they 
came round and discovered that to enter they were 
obliged to crawl on their bellies over a small draw- 
bridge, they appeared astonished, but entered without 
further hesitation. 

"We first breakfasted on deer, meal, goose, and some 
biscuit which the civilized Indian who came out as a 
spy had brought me. After breakfast the commanding 
officer addressed me as follows: 

" ' Sir, the governor of New Mexico, being informed 
you had missed your route, ordered me to offer you, 
in his name, mules, horses, money, or whatever you 
might stand in need of to conduct you to the head of 



26o Zebulon M. Pike 

Red river; as from Santa Fe to where it is sometimes 
navigable is eight days' journey, and v^e have guides and 
the routes of the traders to conduct us.' 

" 'What,' said I, interrupting him, 'is not this the 
Red river ?' 

" *No, Sir! The Rio del Norte.' 

"I immediately ordered my flag to be taken dow^n 
and rolled up, feehng how sensibly I had committed 
myself in entering their territory, and conscious that 
they must have positive orders to take me in. 

"He now added that he had provided lOO mules 
and horses to take in my party and baggage, and how 
anxious his Excellency was to see me at Santa Fe. I 
stated to him the absence of my sergeant, the situation 
of the balance of the party, and that my orders would 
not justify my entering into the Spanish territory. He 
urged still further, until I began to feel myself a little 
heated in the argument; and told him, in a peremptory 
style, that I would not go until the arrival of my sergeant 
with the balance of the party. He replied, that there 
was not the least restraint to be used; that it was only 
necessary his Excellency should receive an explanation 
of my business on his frontier; that I could go now, 
or on the arrival of my party; that, if none went in at 
present, he should be obliged to send in for provisions; 
but that, if I would now march, he would leave an 
Indian interpreter and an escort of dragoons to conduct 
the sergeant into Santa Fe. His mildness induced me 
to tell him that I would march, but must leave two men 
to meet the sergeant and party, to instruct him as to 



In the Mountains of Colorado 261 

coming in, as he never would come without a fight, if 
not ordered. 

"I was induced to consent to this measure by the 
conviction that the officer had positive orders to bring 
me in; and as I had no orders to commit hostilities, and 
indeed had committed myself, although innocently, by 
violating their territory, I conceived it would appear 
better to show a will to come to an explanation than to 
be any way constrained; yet my situation was so eligible, 
and I could so easily have put them at defiance, that it 
was with great reluctance I suffered all our labor to be 
lost without trying the efficacy of it. My compliance 
seemed to spread general joy through the party, as 
soon as it was communicated; but it appeared to be 
different with my men, who wished to have a "little 
dust" as they expressed themselves, and were likewise 
fearful of treachery. 

"My determination being once taken, I gave per- 
mission for the Spanish lieutenant's men to come to 
the outside of the works, and some of mine to go out- 
side and see them. The hospitality and goodness of the 
Creoles and Metifs began to manifest itself by their 
producing their provision and giving it to my men, 
covering them with blankets, etc. 

"After writing my orders to my sergeant, and leaving 
them with my corporal, and one private named Carter, 
who were to remain, we sallied forth, mounted our 
horses, and went up the river about 12 miles, to a place 
where the Spanish officers had made a camp deposit, 
whence we sent down mules for our baggage, etc." 



262 Zebulon M. Pike 

The disposition of the party now is Baroney and 
Private Smith on the Arkansas River at Cano City; 
Privates Dougherty and Sparks in the mountains where 
they were left with frozen feet; Sergeant Meek and 
Private Miller have gone to bring these all in; Cor- 
poral Jackson and Private Carter are left at the fort on 
the Rio Conejos to wait their coming; Dr. Robinson 
has gone ahead to Santa Fe; Pike with Privates Brown, 
Gordon, Menaugh, Mountjoy, Roy, and Stoute are to 
accompany the Spanish dragoons to Santa Fe. 



CHAPTER VII 
THROUGH NEW MEXICO TO EL PASO 

Feb. 27TH — March 2ist 1807 

''Friday^ Feb. 2Jth, 1 807. In the morning I dis- 
covered that the Spanish lieutenant was writing letters 
addressed to the governor and others; on which I de- 
manded if he was not going on with me to Santa Fe. 
He appeared confused and said, No; that his orders 
were so positive as to the safe conduct and protection of 
my men, that he dare not go and leave any behind; that 
his companion would accompany me to Santa Fe with 
50 men, while he with the others would wait for the ser- 
geant and his party. I replied that he had deceived 
me, and had not acted with candor; but that it was 
now too late for me to remedy the evil. 

"We marched about eleven o'clock, ascending the 
Rio del Norte five miles more, S. 60° W., when we went 
round through a chain of hills and bore off to the south. 
We proceeded nine miles further, when we crossed the 
main branch of that stream, which was now bearing 
nearly west toward the main chain of the third chain 
of mountains. We encamped on the opposite side. 
Intensely cold; obliged to stop frequently and make 
fires. Snow deep. Distance 15 miles. 

263 



264 Zebulon M. Pike 

'^Feb. 2?>th. We marched late. One of the French- 
men informed me that the expedition which had been 
to the Pawnees had descended the Red river 233 leagues, 
and from thence had crossed to the Pawnees expressly 
in search of my party. This was afterward confirmed 
by the gentleman who commanded the troops. He 
then expressed great regret at my misfortunes, as he 
termed them, in being taken, and offered his services 
in secreting my papers, etc. I took him at his word, 
and for my amusement thought I would try him; so 
I gave him a leaf or two of my journal, copied, which 
mentioned the time of my sailing from Belle Fontaine, 
and our force. This I charged him to guard very care- 
fully and give to me after the investigation of my papers 
at Santa Fe. This day we saw a herd of wild horses. 
The Spaniards pursued them and caught two colts, 
one of which the Indians killed and ate; the other was 
let go. We pursued our journey over some hills, where 
the snow was very deep, and encamped at last on the 
top of a pretty high hill, among some pines. We left 
the river, which in general ran about six, eight, and 10 
miles to the left or east of us. Saw great sign of elk. 
Distance 36 miles. 

'' Sunday y Mar. 1st. We marched early. Although 
we rode very hard we only got to the village of L'eau 
Chaud, or Warm Spring, some time in the afternoon. 
The distance was about 45 miles. The difference of 
climate was astonishing; after we left the hills and deep 
snows, we found ourselves on plains where there was no 
snow, and where vegetation was sprouting. 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 265 

"The village of Warm Springs, or Agua Caliente in 
their language, is situated on the eastern branch of a 
creek of that name, and at a distance presents to the eye 
a square enclosure of mud walls, the houses forming the 
walls. They are flat on top, or with extreme ascent 
on one side, where there are spits to carry off the water 
of the melting snow and rain when it falls; which, we 
were informed, had been but once in two years previous 
to our entering the country. Inside of the enclosure 
were the different streets of houses in the same fashion, 
all of one story; the doors were narrow, the windows 
small, and in one or two houses there were talc lights. 
This* village had a mill near it, situated on the little 
creek, which made very good flour. The population 
consisted of civilized Indians, but much mixed blood, 

"Here we had a dance which is called the fandango; 
but there was one which was copied from the Mexicans, 
is now danced in the first societies of New Spain, and 
has even been introduced at the court of Madrid. 

"This village may contain 500 souls. The greatest 
natural curiosity is the warm springs, which are two 
in number, about 10 yards apart, each affording suffi- 
cient water for a mill-seat. They appeared to be im- 
pregnated with copper, and were more than 33° above 
blood heat. From this village the Tetaus drove off" 
2,000 horse at one time, when at war with the Spaniards. 

''Mar. 2d. We marched late, and passed several 
little mud-walled villages and settlements, all of which 
had round mud towers of the ancient shape and construc- 
tion, to defend the inhabitants from the intrusions of the 



266 Zebulon M. Pike 

savages. I was this day shown the ruins of several old 
villages which had been taken and destroyed by the 
Tetaus. We were frequently stopped by the women, 
who invited us into their houses to eat; and in every 
place where we halted a moment there was a contest 
who should be our hosts. My poor lads who had 
been frozen were conducted home by old men, who 
would cause their daughters to dress their feet, provide 
their victuals and drink, and at night give them the best 
bed in the house. In short, all their conduct brought 
to my recollection the hospitality of the ancient patri- 
archs, and caused me to sigh with regret at the cor- 
ruption of that noble principle by the polish of modern 
ages. 

"We descended the creek of Agua Caliente about 
12 miles, where it joined the river of Conejos from the 
west. This river was about 30 yards wide, and was 
settled for 12 miles above its junction with the Agua 
Caliente, as the latter was in its whole course from the 
village of that name. From where they form a junc- 
tion it was about 15 miles to the Rio del Norte, on the 
eastern branch of which was situated the village of St. 
John's which was the residence of the president priest 
of the province, who had resided in it 40 years. 

"The house-tops of the village of St. John's were 
crowded, as well as the streets, when we entered, and at 
the door of the public quarters we were met by the presi- 
dent priest. When my companion, who commanded 
the escort, received him in a street and embraced him, 
all the poor creatures who stood round strove to kiss the 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 267 

ring or hand of the holy father; for myself, I saluted 
him in the usual style. My men were conducted into 
the quarters, and I went to the house of the priest, where 
we were treated with politeness. He offered us coffee, 
chocolate, or whatever we thought proper, and desired 
me to consider myself at home in his house. 

"As I was going, some time after, to the quarters of 
my men, I was addressed at the door by a man in broken 
English: 'My friend, I am very sorry to see you here; 
we are all prisoners in this country and can never re- 
turn; I have been a prisoner for nearly three years, and 
cannot get out.' I replied: that as for his being a pris- 
oner, it must be for some crime; that with respect to 
myself I felt no apprehension; and requested him to 
speak French, as I could hardly understand his Eng- 
lish. He began to demand of me so many different 
questions on the mode of my getting into the country, 
my intention, etc., that by the time I arrived in the 
room of my men, I was perfectly satisfied of his having 
been ordered by some person to endeavor to obtain 
some confession or acknowledgment of sinister designs 
in my having appeared on the frontiers, and some con- 
fidential communications which might implicate me. 
As he had been rather insolent in his inquiries, I or- 
dered my men to shut, and fasten the door. I then 
told him that I believed him to be an emissary sent on 
purpose by the governor, or some person, to betray me; 
that all men of that description were scoundrels, and 
never should escape punishment, whilst I had the power 
to chastise them — immediately ordering my men to 



268 Zebulon M. Pike 

seize him, and cautioning him at the same time, that 
if he cried out, or made the least resistance, I would be 
obliged to make use of the sabre in my hand. On this 
he was so much alarmed, that he begged me for God's 
sake not to injure him; he also said that he had been 
ordered by the government to meet me, and endeavor 
to trace out what and who I was, and what were my 
designs, by endeavoring to produce a confidence in him, 
by his exclaiming against the Spaniards and complain- 
ing of the tyranny which they exercised toward him. 
After this confession, I ordered my men to release him, 
and told him that I looked upon him too contemptu- 
ously for further notice; but that he might tell the gov- 
ernor, the next time he employed emissaries, to choose 
those of more abilities and sense; and that I questioned 
if his Excellency would find the sifting of us an easy 
task. 

"This man's name was Baptiste Lalande; he had 
come from the Illionis to the Pawnees, to trade with 
goods furnished him by William Morrison, a gentleman 
of the Illinois, and thence to New Mexico with the goods 
which he had procured, and established himself; he was 
the same man on whom Robinson had a claim. He 
returned into the priest's house with me, and, instead of 
making any complaint, he in reply to their inquiries of 
who I was, etc., informed them that when he left Louisi- 
ana I was governor of the Illinois. This I presume he 
took for granted from my having commanded for some 
time the post of Kaskaskias, the first military post the 
United States had established in that country since the 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 269 

peace; however, the report served to add to the respect 
with which my companion and host treated me. 

"I had at this place the first good meal, wine, etc., 
which, with the heat of the house, and perhaps rather 
an immoderate use of the refreshments allowed me, 
produced an attack of something like cholera morbus, 
which alarmed me considerably, and made me deter- 
mine to be more abstemious in future. 

"This father was a great naturalist, or rather florist; 
he had large collections of flowers, plants, etc., and 
several works on his favorite studies, the margins and 
bottoms of which were filled with his notes in the 
Castilian language. As I neither had a natural turn for 
botany sufficient to induce me to puzzle my head much 
with the Latin, nor understood Castilian, I enjoyed but 
little of the lectures which he continued to give me for 
nearly two hours on those subjects; but, by the exercise 
of a small degree of patience, I entirely acquired the 
esteem of this worthy father, he calling me his son, 
and lamenting extremely that my faith had not made 
me one of the holy catholic church. 

"The father, being informed that I had some astro- 
nomical instruments with me, expressed a desire to see 
them. All that I had here was my sextant and a large 
glass which magnified considerably, calculated for the 
day or night; the remainder of my instruments being 
with my sergeant and party. On examining the sextant 
and my showing him the effect of it in the reflection of 
the sun, he, as well as the hundreds who surrounded us, 
appeared more surprised at the eff"ect of the instrument 



270 Zebulon M. Pike 

than any nation of savages I ever was among. Here 
an idea struck me as extraordinary — how a man who 
appeared to be a master of the ancient languages, a 
botanist, a mineralogist, and chemist, should be so 
ignorant of the power of reflection and the first principles 
of mathematics. But my friend explained the enigma, 
by informing me of the care the Spanish government 
took to prevent any branch of science from being made 
a pursuit which would have a tendency to extend the 
views of the subjects of the provinces to the geography 
of the country, or any other subject which would bring 
to view a comparison of their local advantages and 
situations with other countries. 

"St. John's was inclosed with a mud wall and probably 
contained 1,000 souls; its population consisted princi- 
pally of civilized Indians, as indeed does that of all the 
villages of New Mexico, the whites not forming one- 
twentieth of the inhabitants. 

"Mar. ^rd. We marched after breakfast, B. La- 
lande accompanying us, and in about six miles came 
to a village, where I suppose there were more than 
2,000 souls. Here we halted at the house of a priest, 
who, understanding that I would not kiss his hand, 
would not present it to me. The conduct and be- 
havior of a young priest who came in was such as in 
our country would have been amply sufficient forever 
to have banished him from the clerical association — 
strutting about with a dirk in his boot, a cane in his 
hand, whispering to one girl, chucking another under 
the chin, going out with a third, etc. 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 271 

"From this village, to another small village of 500 in- 
habitants, is seven miles. At each of those villages is 
a small stream, sufficient for the purpose of watering the 
fields. At the father's house we took coffee. From 
this village it was 17 miles to another of 400 civilized 
Indians. Here we changed horses, and prepared for 
entering the capital, which we came in sight of in the 
evening. It is situated along the banks of a small creek, 
which comes down from the mountains, and runs west 
to the Rio del Norte. The length of the capital along 
the creek may be estimated at one mile; it is but three 
streets in width. 

Its appearance from a distance struck my mind 
with the same effect as a fleet of the flat-bottomed 
boats which are seen in the spring and fall seasons, 
descending the Ohio river. There are two churches, 
the magnificence of whose steeples forms a striking 
contrast to the miserable appearance of the houses. 
On the north side of the town is the square of soldiers' 
houses equal to 120 or 140 on each flank. The public 
square is in the centre of the town; on the north side 
of it is situated the palace, as they term it, or govern- 
ment house, with quarters for guards, etc. The other 
side of the square is occupied by the clergy and public 
officers. In general the houses have a shed before the 
front, some of which have a flooring of brick; the con- 
sequence is that the streets are very narrow, say in 
general 25 feet. The supposed population is 4,500 
souls. On our entering the town the crowd was great, 
and followed us to the government house. When we 



272 Zebulon M. Pike 

dismounted we were ushered in through various rooms, 
the floors of which were covered with skins of buffalo, 
bear, or some other animal. We waited in a chamber 
for some time, until his Excellency appeared, when we 
rose, and the following conversation took place in 
French : 

^^ Governor > 'Do you speak French?' 

''Pike. 'Yes, sir.' 

''Governor. 'You come to reconnoiter our country, 
do you } ' 

"Pike. 'I marched to reconnoiter our own.' 

"Governor. 'In what character are you .^' 

"Pike. 'In my proper character, an officer of the 
United States army.' 

"Governor. 'And this Robinson — is he attached to 
your party ? ' 

"Pike. 'No.' 

"Governor. 'Do you know him ?' 

"Pike. 'Yes; he is from St. Louis. (I understood the 
doctor had been sent 45 leagues from Santa Fe, under 
a strong guard. The haughty and unfriendly reception 
of the governor induced me to believe war must have 
been declared, and that if it were known Dr. Robinson 
had accompanied me, he would be treated with great 
severity. I was correct in saying he was not attached 
to my party, for he was only a volunteer, who could not 
properly be said to be one of my command.)* 

"Governor. 'How many men have you?' 

"Pike. * Fifteen.' 

"Governor. 'And this Robinson makes sixteen?' 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 273 

*'Ptke. *I have aheady told your Excellency that he 
does not belong to my party, and shall answer no 
more interrogatories on that subject.' 

'^Governor. 'When did you leave St. Louis?' 

"Pike. 'July 15th.' 

"Gover?jor. 'I think you marched in June.' 

"Pike. 'No, sir!' 

"Governor. 'Well! Return with Mr. Bartholomev^ to 
his house; come here again at seven o'clock, and bring 
your papers.' 

"On which we returned to the house of my friend 
Bartholomew, who seemed much hurt at the interview. 

"At the door of the government house, I met the old 
Frenchman to whom I had given the scrap of paper 
on the 27th of February. He had left us in the morn- 
ing, and, as I suppose, hurried in to make his report, and 
I presume had presented this paper to his Excellency. 
I demanded, with a look of contempt, if he had made 
his report ^ To which he made reply in a humble tone 
and began to excuse himself; but I did not wait to hear 
his excuses. At the hour appointed we returned, when 
the governor demanded my papers. I told him that I 
understood my trunk had been taken possession of 
by his guard. He expressed surprise, immediately or- 
dered it in, and also sent for one Solomon Colly, formerly 
a sergeant in our army, and one of the unfortunate 
company of Nolan. We were seated, when he ordered 
Colly to demand my name, to which I replied. He 
then demanded in what province I was born. I an- 
swered in English, and then addressed his Excellency in 



274 Zebulon M. Pike 

French, and told him that I did not think it necessary 
to enter into such a catechising; that if he would be at 
the pains of reading my commission from the United 
States, and my orders from my general, it would be all 
that I presumed would be necessary to convince his 
Excellency that I came with no hostile intentions toward 
the Spanish government; that, on the contrary, I had 
express instructions to guard against giving them 
offense or alarm; and that his Excellency would be 
convinced that myself and party were rather to be con- 
sidered objects on which the so much celebrated gener- 
osity of the Spanish nation might be exercised, than 
proper subjects to occasion the opposite sentiments. 
He then requested to see my commission and orders, 
which I read to him in French; on which he got up 
and gave me his hand, for the first time, and said he 
was happy to be acquainted with me as a man of honor 
and a gentleman; that I could retire this evening and 
take my trunk with me; and that on the morrow he 
would make further arrangements. 

*'Mar. \th. I was desired by the governor to bring 
up my trunk, in order that he might make some ob- 
servations on my route, etc. When he ordered me to 
take my trunk over night, I had conceived that the 
examination of papers was over. As many of my docu- 
ments were intrusted to the care of my men, and I 
found the inhabitants were treating the men with 
liquor, I was fearful they would become intoxicated, and 
through inadvertency betray or discover the papers. I 
had therefore obtained several of them and put them in 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 275 

the trunk, when an officer arrived for myself and it, 
and I had no opportunity of taking them out again before 
I was taken up to the palace. I discovered instantly 
that I had been deceived, but it was too late to remedy 
the evil. After examining the contents of my trunk, 
he informed me that I must, with my troops, go to 
Chihuahua, province of Biscay, to appear before the 
commandant-general. He added: 'You have the key 
of your trunk in your own possession; the trunk will 
be put under the charge of the officer, who commands 
your escort.' The following conversation then took 
place: 

"Pike. 'If we go to Chihuahua we must be con- 
sidered prisoners of war ?' 

^'Governor. 'By no means.' 

"Pike. 'You have already disarmed my men with- 
out my knowledge; are their arms to be returned or 
not.?' 

"Governor. 'They can receive them at any moment.' 

"Pike. 'But, sir, I cannot consent to be led three or 
four hundred leagues out of my route, without its being 
by force of arms.' 

"Governor. 'I know you do not go voluntarily; but 
I will give you a certificate from under my hand of my 
having obliged you to march.' 

"Pike. 'I will address you a letter on the subject.' 

"Governor. 'You will dine with me to-day, and march 
afterward to a village about six miles distant, escorted 
by Captain Anthony D'Almansa, with a detachment of 
dragoons, who will accompany you where the remainder 



276 Zebulon M. Pike 

of your escort are waiting, under the command of the 
officer, who commanded the expedition to the Pawnees.* 

^^Pike. *I would not wish to be impertinent in my 
observations to your Excellency; but pray, sir, do you 
not think it was a greater infringement of our territory 
to send 600 miles in the Pawnees', than for me with our 
small party to come on the frontiers of yours with an 
intent to descend the Red river?' 

^'Governor. 'I do not understand you.' 

^^Pike. 'No, sir, any further explanation is unnec- 
sarv.' 

" I then returned to the house of my friend Bartholo- 
mew and wrote my letter to his Excellency, which I had 
not finished before we were hurried to dinner. 

"In the morning I received from the governor, by 
the hands of his private secretary, $2\, notifying to me 
that it was the amount of the king's allowance for my 
party to Chihuahua, and that it would be charged to 
me on account of my subsistence. From this I clearly 
understood that it was calculated that the expenses of 
the party to Chihuahua would be defrayed by the United 
States. I also received by the same hands, from his 
Excellency, a shirt and neck-cloth with his compliments, 
wishing me to accept of them, as they had been made 
in Spain by his sister and had never been worn by any 
person. For this I returned him my sincere acknowl- 
edgments; and it may not be deemed irrelevant if I 
explain at this period the miserable appearance we 
made, and the situation we were in, with the causes 
of it. 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 277 

"When we left our interpreter and one man on the 
Arkansaw, we were obliged to carry all our baggage 
on our backs; consequently, that which was the most 
useful was preferred to the few ornamental parts of 
dress we possessed. The ammunition claimed our first 
care; tools were secondary; leather leggings, boots, 
and mockinsons were the next in consideration. Con- 
sequently, I left all my uniform, clothing, trunks, etc., 
as did the men, except what they had on their backs; 
conceiving that which would secure the feet and legs 
from the cold to be preferable to any less indispensable 
portion of our dress. Thus, when we presented our- 
selves at Santa Fe, I was dressed in a pair of blue trous- 
ers, mockinsons, blanket coat, and a cap made of scarlet 
cloth lined with fox-skin; my poor fellows were in 
leggings, breech cloths, leather coat, and there was not 
a hat irivthe whole party. This appearance was ex- 
tremely mortifying to us all, especially as soldiers; al- 
though some of the officers used frequently to observe 
to me, that worth made the man, etc., with a variety 
of adages to the same amount. Yet the first impres- 
sion made on the ignorant is hard to eradicate; and a 
greater proof cannot be given of the ignorance of the 
common people, than their asking if we lived in houses, 
or in camps like the Indians, and if we wore hats in 
our country. Those observations are sufficient to show 
the impression our uncouth appearance made amongst 
them. 

The dinner at the governor's was rather splendid, 
having a variety of dishes and wines of the southern 



278 Zebulon M. Pike 

provinces; and when his Excellency was a little warmed 
with the influence of cheering liquor, he became very 
sociable. He informed me that there existed a serious 
difficulty between the commandant-general of the inter- 
nal provinces and the Marquis Caso Calvo, who had 
given permission to Mr. Dunbar to explore the Ouchata 
contrary to the general principles of their government; 
in consequence of which the former had made represen- 
tations against the latter to the court of Madrid. After 
dinner his Excellency ordered his coach; Captain 
D'Almansa, Bartholomew, and myself entered with him, 
and he drove out three miles. He was drawn by six 
mules and attended by a guard of cavalry. When we 
parted his adieu was, Remember Allencaster, in peace 
or war. 

"I left a note for my sergeant, with instructions to 
keep up good discipline and not be alarmed or dis- 
couraged. As I was about leaving the public square, 
poor Colly, the American prisoner, came up with tears 
in his eyes, and hoped I would not forget him when I 
arrived in the United States. 

"After we left the governor we rode on about three 
miles to a defile, where we halted for the troops. I 
soon found that the old soldier who accompanied us 
and commanded our escort was fond of a drop of the 
cheering liquor, as his boy was carrying a bottle in 
his 'cochmelies,' a small leather case attached to the 
saddle for the purpose of carrying small articles. We 
ascended a hill, and galloped on until about ten o'clock; 
it was snowing hard all the time. Then we came to a 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 279 

precipice, which we descended with great difficuky, 
from the obscurity of the night, to a small village, 
where we put up at the quarters of the priest, he being 
absent. 

''After supper. Captain D'Almansa related to me that 
he had served his Catholic Majesty 40 years to arrive at 
the rank he then held, which was that of a first lieutenant 
of the line and a captain by brevet, whilst he had seen 
various young Europeans promoted over his head. 
After the old man had taken his quantum sufjicet and 
gone to sleep, my friend and myself sat up for some 
hours, he explaining to me their situation, the great 
desire they felt for a change In affairs and an open trade 
with the United States. I pointed out to him with 
chalk on the floor the geographical connection and 
route from the North America and Louisiana, and finally 
gave him a certificate addressed to the citizens of the 
United States, stating his friendly disposition and his 
being a man of influence. This paper he seemed to 
estimate as a very valuable acquisition, as he was de- 
cidedly of the opinion that we would invade that coun- 
try the ensuing spring; and not all my assurances to 
the contrary could eradicate that idea." 

Pike had been out of the reach of news for many 
months, and was ignorant, as the Mexicans were not, 
of the conspiracy of Aaron Burr concerning the Spanish 
possessions. The suspicions of Governor Allencaster 
were not unfounded concerning Pike's presence on 
Spanish soil, although these were not correct as the 
record of Pike's mistaken wanderings and perils which 



28o Zebulon M. Pike 

brought him to the Rio Grande, disclose. He is now, 
however, brought close to events, and conducts him- 
self with "courage, dignity and much fertility of re- 
sources," as one of his historians declares; and these 
last "were never prompted from personal considera- 
tions, but always from intense patriotism." Before 
leaving Santa Fe, in the official letter addressed to the 
Governor, he desires to know if he is a prisoner of 
war, and who is to pay the expenses of this journey of 
himself and men, which he so unwillingly is obliged 
to take. 

In reply the Governor issued a certificate to "Z. 
Montgomery Pike, First Lieutenant of the Anglo- 
American troops," making himself responsible for the 
journey, which, diplomatically, he says, is in order to 
introduce his visitor to the commanding-general of 
Chihuahua. Into the matter of expense he does not 
enter, but subsequently the Governor of Chihuahua 
advanced Pike j^ioo, which the United States is to re- 
fund. 

"Mar. ^th. As it snowed very hard in the morning, 
we did not march until eleven o'clock. In the mean- 
time, Bartholomew and myself paid a visit to an old 
invalid Spaniard, who received us in the most hospita- 
ble manner, giving us chocolate, etc. He made many 
inquiries as to our government and religion, and of 
[Bartholomew], who did not fail to give them the 
brightest coloring; he being enthusiastic in their favor 
from his many conversations with me, and drawing 
comparisons with his own country. What appeared to 



Through New Mexico to EI Paso 281 

the old veteran most extraordinary was that we ever 
changed our president. I was obHged to draw his 
powers on a nearer affinity with those of a monarch 
than they really are, in order that he might comprehend 
his station, and that there was a perfect freedom of 
conscience permitted in our country. He, however, 
expressed his warm approbation of the measure. In 
the priest's house at which we put up were two orphan 
girls, who were adopted by him in their infancy and 
at this time constituted his whole family. 

"I bid adieu to my friend Bartholomew, and could 
not avoid shedding tears; he embraced me and all my 
men. 

"We arrived at the village of St. Domingo at two 
o'clock. It is as I supposed, nine miles on the east side 
of the Rio del Norte, and is a large village, the pop- 
ulation being about 1000 natives, generally governed 
by its own chief. The chiefs of the village were dis- 
tinguished by a cane with a silver head and black tassels. 
On our arrival at the public house Captain D'Almansa 
was waited on by the governor, cap in hand, to receive 
his orders as to furnishing our quarters and ourselves 
with wood, water, provisions, etc. The house itself 
contained nothing but bare walls and small grated 
windows, which brought to my recollection the repre- 
sentations of the Spanish inhabitants given by Dr. 
Moore in his travels through Spain, Italy, etc. This 
village, as well as those of St. Philip's and St. Bartho- 
lomew, is of the nation of Keres, many of whom do 
not yet speak good Spanish. 



282 Zebulon M. Pike 

"After we had refreshed ourselves a little, the captain 
sent for the keys of the church; and when we entered 
it, I was much astonished to find, inclosed in mud- 
brick walls, many rich paintings, and the saint as large 
as life, elegantly ornamented with gold and silver. The 
captain made a slight inclination of the head, and inti- 
mated to me that this was the patron of the village. 
We then ascended into the gallery, where the choir are 
generally placed. In an outside hall was placed an- 
other image of the saint, less richly ornamented, where 
the populace repaired daily and knelt to return thanks 
for benefactions received, or to ask new favors. Many 
young girls, indeed, chose the time of our visit to be 
on their knees before the holy patrons. From the flat 
roof of the church we had a delightful view of the 
village; The Rio del Norte on the west; the mountains 
of St. Dies to the south; the valley round the town, 
on which were numerous herds of goats, sheep, and 
asses — upon the whole, this was one of the handsom- 
est views in New Mexico. 

"Mar. 6th. Marched down the Rio del Norte on 
the east side. Snow one foot deep. Passed large flocks 
of goats. At the village of St. Philip's we crossed a 
bridge of eight arches, constructed as follows: the 
pillars made of neat woodwork, something similar to a 
crate, and in the form of a keel-boat, the sharp end or 
bow to the current; this crate or abutment was filled with 
stone, in which the river lodged sand, clay, etc., until 
it had become of a tolerably firm consistency. On the 
top of the pillars were laid pine logs, lengthways, squared 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 283 

on two sides; being joined pretty close, these made a 
tolerable bridge for carriages, as there were no hand- 
rails. 

"On our arrival at the house of the father, we were 
received in a very polite and friendly manner; and be- 
fore my departure we seemed to have been friends for 
years past. During our dinner, at which we had a 
variety of wines, we were entertained with music, com- 
posed of base drums, French horns, violins, and cym- 
bals. We likewise entered into a long and candid con- 
versation as to the Creoles, wherein he spared neither 
the government nor its administrators. As to govern- 
ment and religion. Father Rubi displayed a liberality of 
opinion and a fund of knowledge which astonished me. 
He showed a statistical table on which he had in a regu- 
lar manner, taken the whole province of New Mexico 
by villages, beginning at Tous, on the northwest, and 
ending with Valencia on the south, giving their latitude, 
longitude, and population, whether natives or Spaniards, 
civilized or barbarous. Christians or pagans, numbers, 
names of the nations, when converted, how governed, 
military force, clergy, salary, etc. — in short, a complete 
geographical, statistical, and historical sketch of the 
province. Of this I wished to obtain a copy, but per- 
ceived that the captain was somewhat surprised at its 
having been shown to me. When we parted, we 
promised to write to each other, which I performed 
from Chihuahua. 

"Here was an old Indian who was extremely inquisi- 
tive to know if we were Spaniards; to which an old 



284 Zebulon M. Pike 



gentleman called Don Francisco, who appeared to be 
an inmate of Father Rubi's, replied in the affirmative. 
*But,' said the Indian, "they do not speak Castillian.' 
'True,' replied the other; 'but you are an Indian of the 
nation of Keres, are you not?' 'Yes.' 'Well, the 
Utahs are Indians also?' 'Yes.' 'But still you do 
not understand them, they speaking a different lan- 
guage.' 'True,' repHed the Indian. 'Well,' said the 
old gentleman, 'those strangers are likewise Spaniards, 
but do not speak the same language with us.' This 
reasoning seemed to satisfy the poor savage; and I 
could not but smile at the ingenuity displayed to make 
him believe there was no other nation of whites but 
the Spaniards. 

"Whilst at dinner. Father Rubi was informed that 
one of his parishioners was at the point of death, and 
wished his attendance to receive his confession. 

"We took our departure, but were shortly after over- 
taken by our friend, who, after giving me another hearty 
shake of the hand, left us. Crossed the river and 
passed two small hamlets and houses on the road to the 
village of St. Dies, opposite the mountain of the same 
name, where we were received in a house of Father 
Rubi, this making part of his domains. 

"Mar. Jth. Marched at nine o'clock through a 
country better cultivated and inhabited than any I had 
yet seen. Arrived at Albuquerque, a village on the 
east side of the Rio del Norte. We were received by 
Father Ambrosio Guerra in a very flattering manner, 
and led into his hall. From thence, after taking 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 285 

some refreshments, we went into an inner apartment, 
where he ordered his adopted children of the female 
sex to appear. They came in by turns — Indians of vari- 
ous nations, Spanish, French, and finally two young 
girls, whom from their complexion I conceived to be 
English. On perceiving I noticed them, he ordered 
the rest to retire, many of whom were beautiful, and 
directed those to sit down on the sofa beside me. Thus 
situated, he told me that they had been taken to the 
east by the Tetaus and passed from one nation to an- 
other, until he purchased them, at that time infants; 
they could recollect neither their names nor language, 
but, concluding they were my countrywomen, he or- 
dered them to embrace me as a mark of their friend- 
ship, to which they appeared nothing loath. We then sat 
down to dinner, which consisted of various dishes, ex- 
cellent wines, and, to crown all, we were waited on by 
half a dozen of those beautiful girls who, like Hebe at 
the feast of the gods, converted our wine to nectar, and 
with their ambrosial breath shed incense on our cups. 
After the cloth was removed some time, the priest beck- 
oned me to follow him, and led me into his sanctum 
sanctorum, where he had the rich and majestic images 
of various saints, and in the midst the crucified Jesus, 
crowned with thorns, with rich rays of golden glory 
surrounding his head — in short, the room being hung 
with black silk curtains, served but to augment the 
gloom and majesty of the scene. When he conceived 
my imagination sufficiently wrought up, he put on a 
black gown and miter, kneeled before the cross, took 



286 Zebulon M. Pike 

hold of my hand, and endeavored gently to pull me 
down beside him. On my refusal he prayed fervently 
for a few minutes and then rose, laid his hands on my 
shoulders, and, as I conceived, blessed me. He then 
said to me, 'You will not be a Christian. Oh! what a 
pity! oh! what a pity!' He then threw off his robes, 
took me by the hand and led me out of the company 
smiling; but the scene I had gone through had made too 
serious an impression on my mind to be eradicated until 
we took our departure, which was in an hour after, hav- 
ing received great marks of friendship from the father. 

"Both above and below Albuquerque, the citizens 
were beginning to open canals, to let in the water of the 
river to fertilize the plain and fields which border its 
banks on both sides; where we saw men, women, and 
children, of all ages and sexes, at the joyful labor which 
was to crown with rich abundance their future harvest 
and insure them plenty for the ensuing year. Those 
scenes brought to my recollection the bright descrip- 
tions given by Savary of the opening of the canals of 
Egypt. The cultivation of the fields was commencing 
and everything appeared to give life and gayety to the 
surrounding scenery. 

"We crossed the Rio del Norte, a little below the 
village of Albuquerque, where it was 400 yards wide, 
but not more than three feet deep and excellent ford- 
ing. At Father Ambrosio's was the only chart we 
saw in the province that gave the near connection of 
the sources of the Rio del Norte and the Rio Colorado 
of California, with their ramifications. 



Through New Mexico to EI Paso 287 

"On our arriving at the next village, a dependency of 
Father Ambrosio's, we w^ere invited into the house of 
the commandant. When I entered, I saw a man sitting 
by the fire reading a book; with blooming cheeks, fine 
complexion, and a genius-speaking eye, he arose from 
his seat. It was Robinson! Not that Robinson who 
left my camp on the headwaters of the Rio del Norte, 
pale, emaciated, with uncombed locks and beard of eight 
months' growth, but with fire,' unsubdued enterprise, 
and fortitude. The change was indeed surprising. I 
started back and exclaimed, 'Robinson!' *Yes.' 'But 
I do not know you,' I replied. 'But I know you,' he 
exclaimed; 'I would not be unknown to you here, in 
this land of tyranny and oppression, to avoid all the 
pains they dare to inflict. Yet, my friend, I grieve to 
see you here and thus, for I presume you are a prisoner.' 
I replied 'No! I wear my sword, you see; all my 
men have their arms, and the moment they dare to ill- 
treat us we will surprise their guards in the night, carry 
off some horses, make our way to the Appaches, and 
then set them at defiance.' 

"At this moment Captain D'Almansa entered, and I 
introduced Robinson to him as my companion de voy- 
age and friend, he having before seen him at Santa Fe. 
He did not appear much surprised, and received him 
with a significant smile, as much as to say, *I knew 
this.' We then marched out to the place where the 
soldiers were encamped, not one of whom would recog- 
nize him, agreeably to orders, until I gave them the 
sign. Then it was a joyful meeting, as the whole 



288 Zebulon M. Pike 

party was enthusiastically fond of him. He gave me 
the following relation of his adventures after he left 
me: 

"'I marched the first day up the branch on which 
we were situated, as you know we had concluded it 
would be most proper to follow it to its source and then 
cross the mountains west, where we had conceived we 
should find the Spanish settlements, and at night en- 
camped on its banks. The second day I left it a Httle, 
bore more south, and was getting up the side of the 
mountain, when I discovered two Indians, for whom I 
made. They were armed with bows and arrows, and 
were extremely shy of my approach; but after some 
time, confidence being somewhat restored, I signified 
a wish to go to Santa Fe, when they pointed due south, 
down the river I left you on. As I could not believe 
them, I reiterated the inquiry and received the same 
reply. I then concluded that we had been deceived, 
and that you were on the Rio del Norte, instead of the 
Red river. I was embarrassed whether I should not im- 
mediately return to apprise you of it; but concluded it 
to be too late, as I was discovered by the Indians, whom 
if I had not met, or some others, I should have continued 
on, crossed the mountains to the waters of the Colorado, 
and descended these, until from their course I should 
have discovered my mistake. I therefore offered them 
some presents to conduct me in; they agreed, con- 
ducted me to the camp where their women were, and in 
about five minutes we were on our march. That night 
we encamped in the woods: I slept very little, owing 



Through New Mexico to EI Paso 289 

to my distrust of my companions. The next day, at 
three o'clock, we arrived at the village of Agua Cahente, 
where I was immediately taken into the house of the 
commandant, and expresses were dispatched to Santa 
Fe. That night I was put to sleep on a mattress on the 
floor. The next day we departed early, leaving my 
arms and baggage at the commandant's, he promising 
to have them forwarded to me at the city. On our 
arrival at Santa Fe, the governor received me with great 
austerity at first, entered into an examination of my 
business, and took possession of all my papers. After 
all this was explained, he ordered me to a room where 
the officers were confined when under an arrest, and a 
non-commissioned officer to attend me when I walked 
out into the city, which I had free permission to do. 
I was supplied with provisions from the governor's table, 
who had promised he would write to Baptiste Lalande 
to come down and answer to the claim I had against 
him; whose circumstances I had apprised myself of. 
The second day the governor sent for me, and informed 
me that he had made inquiry as to the abilities of La- 
lande to discharge the debt, and found that he possessed 
no property; but that at some future period he would 
secure the money for me. To this I made a spirited 
remonstrance, as an infringement of our treaties and 
a protection of a refugee citizen of the United States 
against his creditors. But it had no other effect than to 
obtain me an invitation to dinner, and rather more re^ 
spectful treatment than I had hitherto received from his 
Excellency; who, being slightly afflicted with dropsy. 



290 Zebulon M. Pike 

requested my advice as to his case. For this I pre- 
scribed a regimen and mode of treatment, which hap- 
pened to differ from the one adopted by a monk and 
practising physician of the place, and thus brought on 
me his enmity and ill offices. The ensuing day I was 
ordered by the governor to hold myself in readiness to 
proceed to the internal parts of the country, to which I 
agreed; determining not to leave the country in a 
clandestine manner, unless they attempted to treat me 
with indignity or hardship; and conceiving it in my 
power to join you on your retreat, or find Red river 
and descend it, should you not be brought in; but, 
in that case, to share your destiny. Added to this I 
felt a desire to see more of the country, for which I 
was willing to run the risk of future consequences. 
We marched the ensuing day, I having been equipped 
by my friends with some small articles of which I 
stood in need, such as I would receive out of the 
numerous offers of his country. The fourth day I ar- 
rived at the village of St. Fernandez, where I was re- 
ceived and taken charge of by Lieutenant Don Faciendo 
Malgares, who commanded the expedition to the 
Pawnees, and whom you will find a gentleman, a 
soldier, and one of the most gallant men you ever 
knew. With him I could no longer keep up the dis- 
guise, and when he informed me that you were on the 
way in, I confessed to him that I belonged to your 
party. We have ever since been anticipating the 
pleasure we three will enjoy in our journey to Chihua- 
hua; for he is to command the escort, his dragoons 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 291 

being now encamped in the field, awaiting your arrival. 
Since I have been with him I have practiced physic in 
the country in order to have an opportunity of examin- 
ing the manners, customs, etc., of the people, to en- 
deavor to ascertain their political and religious feelings, 
and to gain every other species of information which 
would be necessary to our country or ourselves. I am 
now here, on a visit to this man's wife, attended by a 
corporal of dragoons as a guard, who answers very well 
as a waiter, guide, etc., in my excursions through the 
country; but I will immediately return with you to Mal- 
gares.' 

"Thus ended Robinson's relation, and I in return 
related what had occurred to the party and myself. We 
agreed upon our future line of conduct, and then re- 
joined my old captain in the house. He had been per- 
suaded to tarry all night, provided it was agreeable to 
me, as our host wished Robinson to remain until the 
next day. With this proposition I complied, in order 
that Robinson and myself might have a further dis- 
cussion before we joined Malgares, who I suspected 
would watch us closely. The troops proceeded to the 
village of Tousac that evening." 

This avowal of Dr. Robinson to Lieutenant Malgares 
now obliged Pike to write back to Governor Allencaster 
a letter in which he gives the following explanation of 
his denial of any knowledge of the doctor; this he had 
already justified to himself on the ground of his being 
a volunteer, and not under command: 

"On my being informed of his embarrassments, I 



292 Zebulon M. Pike 

conceived it would be adding to them to acknowledge his 
having accompanied a military party to the frontiers 
of the province, and conceived myself bound in honor 
and friendship to conceal it; but his scorning any longer 
the disguise he assumed has left me at liberty to make 
this acknowledgment to your Excellency, which I hope 
will sufficiently exculpate me in the opinion of every 
man of honor, and of the world, for having denied a 
fact when I conceived the safety of a friend, in a foreign 
country, was concerned in the event." 

These extracts from letters preserved in the War De- 
partment illustrate that honorable and courteous con- 
duct, which Pike exhibited toward all with whom he 
came into relations. 

"Sunday, Mar. Sth. Marched after taking break- 
fast and halted at a Httle village, three miles distant, 
called Tousac, situated on the west side of the Rio del 
Norte. The men informed me that, on their arrival 
over night, they had all been furnished with an excellent 
supper; and after supper, wine and a violin, with a col- 
lection of the young people to a dance. When we left 
this village the priest sent a cart down to carry us over, 
as the river was nearly four feet deep. When we ap- 
proached the village of St. Fernandez we were met by 
Lieutenant Malgares, accompanied by two or three 
other officers; he received me with the most manly 
frankness and the politeness of a man of the world. 
Yet my feelings were such as almost overpowered me 
and obliged me to ride by myself for a short period in 
order to recover myself. Those sensations arose from 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 293 



my knowledge that he had been absent from Chihua- 
hua ten months, and it had cost the king of Spain more 
than ^10,000 to effect that (capture of myself and 
party), which a mere accident and the deception of 
the governor had accomplished. 

"Malgares, finding that I did not feel at ease, took 
every means in his power to banish my reserve, which 
made it impossible on my part not to appear cheerful. 
We conversed as well as we could, and in two hours were 
as well acquainted as some people would be in the same 
number of months. Malgares possessed nothing of the 
haughty Castilian pride, but much of the urbanity of a 
Frenchman; and I will add my feeble testimony to his 
loyalty, by declaring that he was one of the few officers 
or citizens whom I found loyal to their king, who felt 
indignant at the degraded state of the Spanish mon- 
archy, and who deprecated a revolution or separation of 
Spanish America from the mother country, unless 
France should usurp the government of Spain. These 
are the men who possess the heads to plan, the hearts 
to feel, and the hands to carry this great and important 
work into execution. In the afternoon our friend wrote 
the following notification to the alcaldes of several 
small villages around us: 

"'Send this evening six or eight of your handsomest 
young girls to the village of St. Fernandez, where I 
propose giving a fandango, for the entertainment of 
the American officers arrived this day. 

"'Don Faciendo.' 



294 Zebulon M. Pike 

"This order was punctually obeyed, and portrays 
more clearly than a chapter of observations the de- 
graded state of the common people. In the evening, 
when the company arrived, the ball began after their 
usual manner, and there was really a handsome display 
of beauty. 

"It will be proper to mention here, that when my 
small paper trunk was brought in, Lt. Malgares struck 
his foot against it, and said: 'The governor informs 
me this is a prisoner of war, or that I have charge of it; 
but, sir, only assure me that you will hold the papers 
therein contained sacred, and I will have nothing to 
do with it.' I bowed assent; and I will only add that 
the condition was scrupulously adhered to, as I was 
bound by every tie of military and national honor, 
and, let me add, gratitude, not to abuse his high con- 
fidence in the honor of a soldier. He further added that 
* Robinson being now acknowledged as one of your party, 
I shall withdraw his guard and consider him as under 
your parole of honor.' Those various marks of polite- 
ness and friendship caused me to endeavor to evince to 
my brother soldier that we were capable of appreciat- 
ing his honorable conduct toward us. 

"Mar. gth. The troops marched about ten o'clock. 
Lt. Malgares and myself accompanied Captain D'Al- 
mansa about three miles back on his route to Santa Fe, 
to the house of a citizen, where we dined; after which 
we separated. I wrote by the captain to the governor 
in French and to Father Rubi in English. D'Almansa 
presented me with his cap and whip, and gave me a 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 295 

letter of recommendation to an officer at Chihuahua. 
We returned to our quarters and, being joined by our 
waiters, commenced our route. 

"Passed a village called St. Thomas, one mile dis- 
tant from camp. The camp was formed in an ellipsis, 
the two sides presenting a breastwork formed of the 
saddles and heads of the mules, each end of the ellipsis 
having a small opening to pass and repass at; in the 
centre was the commandant's tent. Thus in case of 
an attack on camp, there were ready-formed works to 
fight from. Malgares' mode of living was superior to 
anything we have an idea of in our army; having eight 
mules loaded with his common camp equipage, wines, 
confectionery, etc. But this only served to evince the 
corruption of Spanish discipHne; for, if a subaltern in- 
dulged himself with such a quantity of baggage, what 
would be the cavalcade attending an army .? Dr. Rob- 
inson had been called over the river to a small village 
to see a sick woman, and did not return that night. 
Distance 12 miles. 

"Mar. loth. Marched at eight o'clock, and arrived 
at the village Sibilleta; passed on the way the village of 
Sabinez on the west side, and Xalales, on the same side. 
Sibilleta is situated on the east side, and is a regular 
square, appearing like a large mud wall on the outside, 
the doors, windows, etc., facing the square; it is the 
neatest and most regular village I have yet seen, and is 
governed by a sergeant, at whose quarters I put up. 

"Mar. nth. Marched at eleven o'clock; came I2 
miles and encamped, the troops having preceeded us. 



296 Zebulon M. Pike 



Lieutenant Malgares, not being well, took medicine. 
The village we stayed at last night being the last, we 
entered the wilderness and the road became rough, 
small hills running into the river, making valleys, but 
the bottoms appear richer than those more to the north. 
"Mar. \2th. Marched at seven o'clock; passed, 
on the west side of the river, the mountains of Mag- 
dalen, and the Black mountains on the east, the en- 
campment of a caravan going out with about 15,000 
sheep from the other provinces, from which they bring 
back merchandise. This expedition consisted of about 
300 men, chiefly citizens, escorted by an officer and 35 
or 40 troops; they are collected at Sibilleta and separate 
there on their return. They go out in February and 
return in March; a similar expedition goes out in the 
autumn, but during the other parts of the year no citizen 
travels the road, the couriers excepted. At the pass 
of the Rio del Norte they meet and exchange packets, 
when both return to their own provinces. Met a cara- 
van of 50 men and probably 200 horses, loaded with 
goods for New Mexico. Halted at twelve o'clock, and 
marched at three. Lt. Malgares showed me the place 
where he had been in two aff"airs with the Apaches; 
one he commanded himself, and the other was com- 
manded by Captain D'Almansa; in the former there 
were one Spaniard killed, eight wounded, and 10 
Apaches made prisoners; in the latter 52 Apaches were 
wounded and 17 killed, they being surprised in the 
night. Malgares killed two himself, and had two 
horses killed under him. 




oi ,=« 



H 



U 






Through New Mexico to El Paso 297 

"Mar. I'^th. Marched at seven o'clock; saw many 
deer. Halted at eleven o'clock and marched at four 
o'clock. This day one of our horses threw a young 
woman and ran off, as is the habit of all Spanish horses, 
if by chance they throw their rider; many of the dra- 
goons and Malgares pursued him. Being mounted on 
an elegant horse of Malgares', I joined in the chase, and 
notwithstanding their superior horsemanship overtook 
the horse, caught his bridle and stopped him, when 
both of the horses were at nearly full speed. This act 
procured me the applause of the Spanish dragoons, 
and it is astonishing how much it operated on their 
good will. 

"Marched at ten o'clock, and halted at a mountain; 
distance 10 miles. This is the point from which the 
road leaves the river for a two days' journey bearing 
due south, the river here taking a turn south-west; 
by the river it is five days to where the roads meet. 
We marched at four o'clock, and eight mules crossed 
the river to the west side; two mules fell in the water. 
Unfortunately they carried the stores of Lieutenant 
Malgares, by which means we lost all our bread, an 
elegant assortment of biscuits, etc. Distance 18 miles." 

In crossing the Rio Grande here, instead of following 
the main road Malgares avoided what was known as 
the Jornada del Muerte, Hterally a journey of the dead, 
passing, as it did, over arid table-lands and a barren, 
perilous mountain range, without water. Rough as was 
their route on the west side, it was beguiled by much 
talk concerning the Mescalaera Apaches, through whose 



298 Zebulon M. Pike 

country they were travelling, and of whom Lieutenant 
Malgares told many things, which Pike elsewhere com- 
municated to his government, and are here worth tell- 
ing. 

"Malgares related an instance when he was marching 
with 140 men and they were attacked by a party of 
Apaches, both horse and foot, who continued the fight 
for four hours. Whenever the Spanish dragoons would 
make a charge, the Apaches' cavalry would retreat 
behind the infantry, who met the Spaniards with a 
shower of arrows, who immediately retreated; and even 
the gallant Malgares spoke of the Spanish cavalry's 
breaking the Apaches' infantry as a thing not to be 
thought of. 

"Malgares assured me that if the Apaches had 
seconded the eflPorts and bravery of their chieftain, the 
Spaniards must have been defeated and cut to pieces; 
that in various instances he rallied his men and brought 
them up to the charge, and that when they fled, he re- 
tired indignantly to the rear. Seeing Malgares very 
actively engaged in forming and bringing up the Span- 
iards, the Apache chieftain rode out ahead of the party 
and challenged him to single combat with his lance. 
This my friend refused, as he said that the chief was 
one of the stoutest men he knew; carried a remarkably 
heavy lance, and rode a very fine charger; but one of 
his corporals, enraged to see the Spaniards braved by 
this savage, begged permission to meet the 'infidel.' 
His officer refused this request and ordered him to keep 
his ranks; but he reiterating the request, his superior 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 299 

in a passion told him to go. The Indian chief had 
turned his horse to rejoin his party, but seeing an enemy 
advancing, he turned, gave a shout, and met him at full 
speed. The dragoon thought to parry the lance of his 
antagonist, which he in part effected; but not throwing 
it quite high enough, it entered his neck before and 
came out at the nape, when he fell dead to the ground, 
and his victorious enemy gave a shout of victory, in 
which he was joined by all his followers. This enraged 
the Spaniards to such a degree that they made a general 
charge, in which the Indian cavalry again retreated, not- 
withstanding the entreaties of their gallant leader. 

"In another instance a small smoke was discovered 
on the prairie; three poor savages were surrounded by 
100 dragoons and ordered to lay down their arms; 
they smiled at the officer's demand, and asked him if 
he could suppose that men who had arms in their hands 
would ever consent to become slaves. The officer, being 
loath to kill them, held a conference for an hour; when, 
finding that his threats had as httle effisct as his entrea- 
ties, he ordered his men to attack them at a distance, 
keeping out of the reach of their arrows, and firing at 
them with their carabines, which they did, the Indians 
never ceasing to resist as long as life remained. 

"In a truce which was held a Spanish captain was 
ordered to treat with some of the bands. He received 
their deputies with hauteur, and they could not come 
upon terms. The truce was broken, and the Indians 
retreated to their fastnesses in the mountains. In a 
day or two this same officer pursued them. They were 



300 Zebulon M. Pike 

in a place called the Door in the Mountain, where but 
two or three dragoons could enter at a time, and there 
were rocks and caves on the flanks behind which the 
Indians secreted themselves until a number of the 
Spaniards had come in. Then the Indians sounded a 
trumpet; the attack began, and continued on the side of 
the Apaches until the Spanish captain fell, when the 
Indian chief caused the firing to cease, saying that the 
man who had so haughtily spurned the proffered peace 
was now dead. On this occasion they deviated from 
their accustomed rule of warfare, and made a prisoner of 
a young officer, who, during the truce, had treated 
them with great kindness, and sent him home safe and 
unhurt. 

"Some of the bands have made temporary truces 
with the Spaniards, and received from them 25 cents 
per diem each. Those people hang round the fortifica- 
tions of the country, drink, shoot, and dissipate their 
time; they are haughty and independent. Great jeal- 
ousy exists between them and the Spaniards. An offi- 
cer was under trial, when I was in the country, for antici- 
pating an attack on his fortress by attacking the chiefs 
of the supposed conspiracy, and putting them to death 
before they had time to mature and darry their plans 
into execution. The decision of the case I never learned ; 
but those savages who have been for some time about 
the forts and villages become by far the most dangerous 
enemies the Spaniards have, when hostile, as they have 
acquired the Spanish language, manners, habits, pass 
through the populated parts under the disguise of civil- 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 301 

ized and friendly Indians, commit murders and robber- 
ies and are not suspected. There is in the province of 
Cogquilla, a partisan by the name of Ralph, who, they 
calculate, has killed more than 300 persons. He comes 
into the town under the disguise of a peasant, buys pro- 
visions, goes to the gaming-tables, and to mass, and 
before he leaves the village is sure to kill some person 
or carry off a woman, which he has frequently done. 
Sometimes he joins the people traveling on the road, 
insinuates himself into their confidence and takes his 
opportunity to assassinate them. He has only six fol- 
lowers, and from their knowledge of the country, activity 
and cunning, he keeps about 300 Spanish dragoons con- 
tinually employed. The government has offered ^1,000 
for his head. 

"Their arms are the bow and arrow, and the lance. 
Their bow forms two demi-circles, with a shoulder in 
the middle; the back of it is entirely covered with sin- 
ews, which are laid on in so nice a manner, by the use 
of some glutinous substance, as to be almost impercepti- 
ble; this gives great elasticity to the weapon. Their 
arrow is more than the "cloth yard" of the English, 
being three feet and a half long, the upper part consist- 
ing of some light rush or cane, into which is inserted a 
shaft of about one foot, made of some hard, seasoned 
light wood; the point is of iron, bone, or stone, and, 
when the arrow enters the body, in attempting to ex- 
tract it the shaft comes out of its socket and the point 
remains in the wound. With this weapon they shoot 
with such force as to go through the body of a man at a 



302 Zebulon M. Pike 

distance of lOO yards, and an officer told me that in an 
engagement with them, one of their arrows struck his 
shield and dismounted him in an instant. Their other 
weapon of offense is a lance of 15 feet in length, with 
which they charge with both hands over their heads, 
managing their horses principally with their knees. 
With this weapon they are considered an overmatch 
for any Spanish dragoon single-handed; but, for want 
of a knowledge of tactics, they can never stand the 
charge of a body which acts in concert. They all 
carry shields. Some few are armed with guns and am- 
munition taken from the Spaniards, Those, as well 
as the archers, generally march to war on foot; but the 
lancemen are always mounted." 

The warfare between the Spaniards and the Apaches 
began. Pike explains, by the Spainards endeavoring 
to make slaves of the Indians. When the Apaches 
resisted they were shipped to Cuba. The outcome was 
the refusal of the Apaches to take or give quarter. 
Other Indian tribes were more docile and became 
slaves of the State. Pike relates of their subjection: 

"I was myself eye-witness of a scene which made 
my heart bleed for those poor wretches, at the same 
time that it excited my indignation and contempt, that 
they would suffer themselves, with arms in their hands, 
to be beaten and knocked about by beings no ways their 
superiors, unless a small tint of complexion could be 
supposed to give that superiority. Before we arrived at 
Santa Fe, one night, we were near one of the villages 
where resided the families of two of our Indian horse- 



Through New Mexico to El Paso 303 

men. They took the hberty to pay them a visit in the 
night. Next morning the whole of the Indian horse- 
men were called up, and because they refused to testify 
against their imprudent companions, several were 
knocked down from their horses by the Spanish dragoons 
with the butt of their lances; yet, with the blood stream- 
ing down their visages, and arms in their hands, they 
stood cool and tranquil — not a frown, not a word of 
discontent or palliation escaped their lips. Yet what 
must have been the boiling indignation of their souls 
at the indignities offered by the wretch clothed with 
a Httle brief authority! The day of retribution will 
come in thunder and in vengeance. 

"Mar. i6th. Marched at seven o'clock, and halted 
at twelve. Passed on the east side the Horse Mountain, 
and the Mountain of the Dead. Came on a trail of the 
appearance of 200 horses, supposed to be the trail of 
an expedition from the province of Biscay, against the 
Indians. 

"Mar. ijth. Marched at ten o'clock, and at four in 
the afternoon crossed the river to the east side; saw 
several fresh Indian tracks; also, the trail of a large 
party of horses, supposed to be Spanish troops in pursuit 
of the Indians. Marched down the river 26 miles; 
fresh sign of Indians, also of a party of horses. 
Country mountainous on both sides of the river. 

"Mar. 2ist. Marched in the morning and arrived 
at the Passo del Norte at eleven o'clock, the road lead- 
ing through a hilly and mountainous country. We put 
up at the house of Don Francisco Garcia, who was a 



304 Zebulon M. Pike 

merchant and a planter; he possessed in the vicinity of 
the town 20,000 sheep, and 1,000 cows. We were re- 
ceived in a most hospitable manner by Don Pedro 
Roderique Rey, the Lieutenant Governor, and Father 
Joseph Prado, the vicar of the place. This was by far 
the most flourishing place we had been in." 

Pike is now at El Paso, where the Rio Grande passes 
from the mountains to the plains. Although he does 
not mention it he has doubtless crossed the river to the 
Spanish settlement, which we now know as Ciudad 
Juarez, dating from 1680, while the Texan town of EI 
Paso, as late as 1849 had only three houses. 



CHAPTER VIII 

THROUGH OLD MEXICO TO THE 
PRESIDIO GRANDE 

March 22D — May 31ST, 1807. 

"Sunday, Mar. 22d. Remained at the Passo. 

"Mar. 23 J. Mass performed; left the Passo at 
three o'clock, to Fort Elisiaira, accompanied by the 
lieutenant-governor, the vicar, and Allencaster, a brother 
of the governor. Malgares, myself, and the doctor took 

up our quarters at the house of Capt. , who was 

then at Chihuahua; but his lady and sister entertained 
us in a very elegant and hospitable manner. They be- 
gan playing cards and continued until late the third day. 
Malgares, who won considerably, would send frequently 
^15 or ;^20, from the table to the lady of the house, her 
sister, and others, and beg their acceptance, in order 
that the goddess of fortune might still continue propi- 
tious; in this manner he distributed ^^500. 

"Around this fort were a great number of Apaches, 
who were on a treaty with the Spaniards. These people 
appeared to be perfectly independent in their manners, 
and were the only savages I saw in the Spanish domin- 
ions whose spirit was not humbled — whose necks were 

305 



3o6 Zebulon M. Pike 

not bowed to the yoke of their invaders. With those 
people Malgares was extremely popular. I beheve he 
sought popularity with them and all the common people, 
for there was no man so poor or so humble, under whose 
roof he would not enter; when he walked out, I have 
seen him put a handful of dollars in his pocket, and give 
them all to the old men, women, and children before he 
returned to his quarters; but to equals he was haughty 
and overbearing. This conduct he pursued through the 
whole provinces of New Mexico and Biscay, when at 
a distance from the seat of government; but I could 
plainly perceive that he was cautious of his conduct 
as he approached the capital. I here left a letter for 
my sergeant. 

"Mar. 26th. Divine service was performed in the 
morning, in the garrison, at which all the troops at- 
tended under arms. At one part of their mass, they 
present arms; at another, sink on one knee and rest the 
muzzle of the gun on the ground, in signification of 
their submission to their divine master. At one o'clock, 
we bid adieu to our friendly hostess, who was one of 
the finest women I had seen in New Spain. At dusk 
arrived at a small pond made by a spring which arose in 
the center, called the Ogo mall a Ukap, and seemed 
formed by providence to enable the human race to pass 
that route, as it was the only water within 60 miles on 
the route. Here we overtook Sergeant Belardie with 
the party of dragoons from Senora and Biscay, who had 
left us at Fort EHsiaira, where we had received a new 
escort. Distance 20 miles. 



Through Old Mexico 307 

''Mar. ijth. Arrived at Carrical at twelve o'clock. 
Distance 28 miles; the roads v^ell w^atered and the sit- 
uation pleasant. The father-in-lav7 of our friend com- 
manded six or seven years here. When v^^e arrived at 
the fort, the commandant, Don Pedro Rues Sara- 
mende, received Robinson and myself with a cold bow 
and informed Malgares that he could repair to the pubHc 
quarters. To this Malgares indignantly replied that he 
should accompany us, and turned to go, when the com- 
mandant took him by the arm, made many apologies 
to him and us, and we at length reluctantly entered his 
quarters. Here for the first time I saw the gazettes of 
Mexico, which gave rumors of Colonel Burr's conspir- 
acies, the movements of our troops, etc.; but which 
were stated in so vague and undefined a manner as 
only to create our anxiety without throwing any light 
on the subject. 

"Mar. 30/A. Marched before seven o'clock; the 
front arrived at water at eleven o'clock; the mules, at 
twelve. The spring on the side of the mountain, to the 
east of the road, is a beautiful situation. I here saw 
the first ash timber I observed in the country. This 
water is 52 miles from the Warm Springs. Yesterday 
and to-day saw cabrie. Marched 15 miles further and 
encamped without wood or water; passed two other 
small springs to the east of the road. 

"A/ar. 31^"^ Marched early and arrived at an ex- 
cellent spring at ten o'clock. The roads from Senora, 
Tanos Buenaventura, etc., join about 400 yards before 
you arrive at this spring. 



3o8 Zebulon M. Pike 



"Arrived at the village of [hiatus] at night, a large 
and elegant house for the country; here were various 
labors carried on by criminals in irons. We here met 
a Catalonian, who was but a short time from Spain, 
whose dialect was such that he could be hardly under- 
stood by Malgares, and whose manners were much 
more like those of a citizen of our Western frontiers 
than of a subject of a despotic prince. 

"April 1st. In the morning Malgares despatched a 
courier with a letter to the Commandant-general Sal- 
cedo, to inform him of our approach, and also one to 
his father-in-law. 

''Apr. 2d. When we arrived at Chihuahua, we pur- 
sued our course through the town to the house of the 
general. I was much astonished to see with what 
anxiety Malgares anticipated the meeting with his mili- 
tary chief. Having been on the most arduous and en- 
terprising expedition ever undertaken by any of his 
Majesty's officers from these provinces, and having exe- 
cuted it with equal spirit and judgment, yet was he fear- 
ful of his meeting him with an eye of displeasure. He 
appeared to be much more agitated than ourselves, al- 
though we may be supposed to have also had our sen- 
sations, as on the will of this man depended our future 
destiny, at least until our country could interfere in our 
behalf. On our arrival at the general's, we were halted 
in the hall of the guard until word was sent to the general 
of our arrival, when Malgares was first introduced. He 
remained some time, during which a Frenchman came 
up and endeavored to enter into conversation with us, 




^WHEX WE ARRIVED AT CHIHUAHUA, WE PURSUED OUR 

COURSE THROUGH THE TOWN TO THE 

HOUSE OF THE GEiXERAL." 



Through Old Mexico 309 

but was soon frowned into silence, as we conceived 
he was only some authorized spy. Malgares at last 
came out and asked me to walk in. I found the gen- 
eral sitting at his desk; he was a middle-sized man, 
apparently about 55 years of age, with a stern counte- 
nance; but he received me graciously and beckoned to 
a seat. 

"He then observed, 'You have given us and yourself 
a great deal of trouble.' 

''Captain Pike. 'On my part entirely unsought, 
and on that of the Spanish government voluntary.' 

"General Salcedo. 'Where are your papers .f" 

"Captain Pike. 'Under charge of Lieutenant Mal- 
gares.' 

"Malgares was then ordered to have my small trunk 
brought in, which being done, a Lieutenant Walker came 
in, who is a native of New Orleans, his father an 
Englishman, his mother a French woman, and who 
spoke both languages equally well, also Spanish. He 
was a lieutenant of dragoons in the Spanish service, 
and master of the military school at Chihuahua. This 
same young gentleman was employed by Mr. Andrew 
Ellicot, as a deputy surveyor on the Florida line be- 
tween the United States and Spain, in the years 1797 
and '98. General Salcedo then asked him to assist me 
in taking out my papers, and requested me to explain 
the nature of each; such as he conceived were relevant 
to the expedition he caused to be laid on one side, 
and those which were not of a pubHc nature on the 
other; the whole either passing through the hands of 



310 Zebulon M. Pike 

the general or of Walker, except a few letters from my 
lady. On my taking these up, and saying they were 
letters from a lady, the general gave a proof that, if 
the ancient Spanish bravery had degenerated in the 
nation generally, their gallantry still existed, by bowing; 
and I put them in my pocket. He then informed me 
that he would examine the papers, but that in the mean- 
while he wished me to make out and present to him a 
short sketch of my voyage, which might probably be 
satisfactory. This I would have positively refused, 
had I had an idea that it was his determination to keep 
the papers, which I could not at that time conceive, 
from the urbanity and satisfaction which he appeared 
to exhibit on the event of our interview. He then told 
me that I would take up my quarters with Walker, in 
order, as he said, to be better accommodated by having 
a person with me who spoke the English language; 
but the object, as I suspected, was for him to be a spy 
on our actions and on those who visited us. 

"Robinson all this time had been standing in the 
guard-room, boiling with indignation at being so long 
detained there, subject to the observations of the soldiery 
and gaping curiosity of the vulgar. He was now in- 
troduced, by some mistake of one of the aides-de-camp. 
He appeared and made a slight bow to the general, who 
demanded of Malgares who he was. He replied, *a 
doctor who accompanied the expedition.* 'Let him 
retire,' said the governor; and he went out. 

"The general then invited me to return and dine 
with him, and we went to the quarters of Walker, 



Through Old Mexico 311 

where we received several different invitations to take 
quarters at houses where we might be better accom- 
modated; but, understanding that the general had des- 
ignated our quarters, we were silent. 

"We returned to dine at the palace, where we met 
Malgares, who, besides ourselves, was the only guest. 
He had at the table, the treasurer Truxillio, and a priest 
called Father Rocus." 

The inventory of papers taken from Pike, now cap- 
tain, as he had been promoted on leaving Bellefontaine, 
signed by Juan Pedro Walker and Francisco Valesco, 
is found in a Congressional report, and contains a com- 
plete list of all he had with him. In a letter to General 
Wilkinson written at Chihuahua, he says it would have 
been impossible for him to have attempted any decep- 
tion concerning them, since Walker, the Englishman, 
would have detected it. The papers he had left with 
Sergeant Meek he had ordered him to retain by force. 
This order the sergeant obeyed to the letter, killing a 
Spaniard to do it, for which act, Governor Cordero al- 
ludes to him as "intractable.'* Meek was never able 
to join his commander again, but carried his notes 
safely through, and these with the copies of courses 
and distances made by Dr. Robinson aided Pike in his 
subsequent reports. 

While in Spanish territory. Pike was forbidden pen 
and ink. Nevertheless he still kept his journal, made 
observations, and took courses, on small pieces of paper 
which he secreted in the gun-barrels of his men, and thus 
brought them, although in a mutilated state, safely out 



312 Zebulon M. Pike 

of Mexico. Meanwhile he gave constant attention to 
everything that took place, and collected through his 
eyes a great deal of valuable material for his government. 
As it happened, unfortunate as at the time it seemed, the 
capture of these papers by Governor Salcedo proved to 
be a piece of good fortune for their owner; since they 
disclosed no evidence that Pike was in any way, through 
General Wilkinson, implicated in the conspiracy of 
Aaron Burr. 

"Apr. 3 J. Employed in giving a sketch of our voy- 
age for the general and commandant of those provinces. 
Introduced to Don Bernardo Villamil; Don Alberto 
Mayner, lieutenant-colonel, and father-in-law to Mal- 
gares; and Don Manuel Zuloaga, a member of the sec- 
retary's office, to whom I am under obligations of grati- 
tude, and shall remember with esteem. Visited his 
house in the evening. 

"Apr. ^th. Visited the hospital, where were two offi- 
cers, who were fine-looking men, and I was informed 
had been the gayest young men of the province. They 
were moldering away by disease, and there was not a 
physician in his Majesty's hospitals who was able to 
cure them; but after repeated attempts, all had given 
them up to perish. This shows the deplorable state of 
mediril science in the provinces. I endeavored to get 
Robinson to undertake the cure of these poor fellows, 
but the jealousy and envy of the Spanish doctors 
made it impracticable. 

" Sunday^ Apr. ^th. Visited by Lieutenant Malgares, 
with a very polite message from his Excellency, delivered 



Through Old Mexico 313 

in the most impressive terms, with offers of assistance, 
money, etc., for which I returned my respectful thanks 
to the general. Accompanied Malgares to the public 
walk, where we found the secretary, Captain Villamil, 
Zuloaga, and other officers of distinction. We here 
likewise met the wife of my friend Malgares, to whom 
he introduced us. She was, like all the other ladies of 
New Spain, a little en hon pointy but possessed the na- 
tional beauty of eye in a superior degree. There was a 
large collection of ladies, amongst whom were two of 
the most celebrated in the capital — Senora Maria Con. 
Caberairi, and Seiiora Marguerite Vallois, the only two 
ladies who had spirit sufficient, and their husbands 
generosity enough, to allow them to think themselves 
rational beings, to be treated on an equality, to receive 
the visits of their friends, and give way to the hospital- 
ity of their dispositions without restraint. They were 
consequently the envy of other ladies, and the subject 
of scandal to prudes; their houses were the rendezvous 
of all the fashionable male society; and every man who 
was conspicuous for science, arts, or arms, was sure to 
meet a welcome. We, as unfortunate strangers, were 
consequently not forgotten. I returned with Malgares 
to the house of his father-in-law, Lieutenant Colonel 
Mayner, who was originally from Cadiz, a man of good 
information. 

^' Apr. 6th. Dined with the general. Writing, etc. 
In the evening visited Malgares and the secretary. After 
dinner wine was set on the table and we were enter- 
tained with songs in the French, Italian, Spanish, and 



314 Zebulon M. Pike 

English languages. Accustomed as I was to sitting 
some time after dinner I forgot their siesta, or reposes 
after dinner, until Walker suggested the thing to me 
and we retired. 

''Apr. ph. Dined at Don Antonio Caberairi's in 
company with Villamil, Zuloaga, Walker, etc. Sent in 
the sketch of my voyage to the general. Spent the even- 
ing at Colonel Mayner's with Malgares. 

"Apr. Sth. Visited the treasurer, who showed me 
the double-barreled gun given by Governor Claiborne, 
and another the property of Nolan. 

"Apr. gth. In the evening I was informed that David 
Fero was in town and wished to speak to me. This 
man had formerly been ensign in my father's regiment, 
and was taken with Nolan's party at the time the latter 
was killed. He possessed a brave soul, and had with- 
stood every oppression, since being made prisoner, with 
astonishing fortitude. Although his leaving the place 
of confinement, the village of St. Jeronimie, without 
the knowledge of the general, was in some measure 
clandestine, yet a countryman, an acquaintance and 
formerly a brother soldier, in a strange land, in dis- 
tress, had ventured to see me — could I deny him the 
interview from motives of delicacy .? No; forbid it 
humanity. Forbid it, every sentiment of my soul. 

"Our meeting was affecting, tears standing in his 
eyes. He informed me of the particulars of their being 
taken, and many other circumstances since they had 
been in this country; I promised to do all I could for 
him consistent with my character and honor, and their 



Through Old Mexico 315 

having entered the country without the authority of 
the United States. As he was obliged to leave town 
before day, he called on me at my quarters, when I bid 
him adieu, and gave him what my purse afforded, not 
what my heart dictated." 

Captain Phillip Nolan, "well known for his athletic 
exertions and dexterity in catching wild horses," as he is 
described by a traveller of his time, was taken prisoner 
and killed by the Spaniards in 1801, and his men re- 
tained as prisoners by the Spaniards. Concerning these, 
and particularly Fero, Pike was as good as he prom- 
ised, and addressed the following letter to General 
Salcedo: 

"Sir: 

" I hope your Excellency may not attribute it to pre- 
sumption or a disposition to intrude, when I address 
you on a subject foreign to my official duties, and on 
which I can only speak as an individual; for I should 
feel myself wanting in humanity, and that attention 
which every man owes to his fellow-creatures in distress, 
should I remain silent, more especially when those who 
are compatriots, and some of them former companions, 
are now in a strange country, languishing out their days 
far from their friends and relations, with scarcely a 
dawn of hope remaining of ever again being blessed with 
a view of their native homes. It is scarcely necessary 
to add that I allude to the unfortunate companions of 
Nolan, who, having entered the territories of his Catho- 
lic Majesty in a clandestine manner, equally in violation 



3i6 Zebulon M. Pike 

of the treaties between the two governments, the laws of 
the United States, and those of Spain, could not be re- 
claimed or noticed by their own country. Yet, from 
every information I have received on the subject, the 
men of the party were innocent, believing that Nolan 
had passports from the Spanish governor to carry on the 
traffic of horses. I pretend not to justify the many 
irregularities of their conduct since [they have been] in 
the Spanish dominions; but hope that these may be 
viewed with an eye of clemency, as the men are most of 
them very illiterate, possessing scarcely any part of an 
education. 

" David Fero was formerly a subaltern in a company 
of infantry of the United States commanded by my 
father at the time I served as a volunteer, but left the 
service, as I have been informed, owing to some irregu- 
larities of conduct. His having been once my compan- 
ion entitles him at present to my particular attention; yet 
I will here mention to your Excellency a circumstance 
which may appear, if known, in an unfavorable light, 
viz.: About 15 days past I was informed Fero was in 
town, and that he desired to see me. I was extremely 
mortified at receiving the information, as I conceived 
he must have left his post in a clandestine manner; 
yet I could not find it in my heart to refuse the interview, 
which I gave, but determined at the same time to inform 
you of the circumstance, conceiving that you could not 
look on it as a matter of much criminality. 

" But to conclude, I have to beg of your Excellency, 
if it be in your power and consistent with the line of con- 



Through Old Mexico 317 

duct you conceive proper to pursue, to inform me if 
anything can be done toward restoring these poor fel- 
lows to their liberty, friends, and country; and in a 
particular manner I intercede for Fero. If it is out of 
the power of the general to grant them leave to return 
to the United States, I beg to know if there be any 
objection to my taking letters to their fathers, wives, 
etc. I should not have addressed this letter to the gen- 
eral, had I not conceived the fate of those men to be at 
his disposal, as he had suffered one of them to join the 
service of his Catholic Majesty; neither do I request 
the honor of any than a verbal reply, as I write in the 
character of an individual, not as an officer of the 
United States. 

"I am. Sir, 

"With high consideration, 

"Your humble, obedient servant, 

"Z. M. Pike. 
"His Excellency, 
"General Nimesio Salcedo." 

There seems to have been no answer to this letter 
beyond Salcedo's verbal reply that he had found the 
men in prison, and he had brought them to Chihuahua, 
where he had their irons removed. He had then re- 
ported their case to the King of Spain, whose orders he 
awaited. True to his promise, as soon as Pike arrived 
at Nachitoches he sent a letter to the newspapers of the 
United States concerning the prisoners, hoping in this 
manner to inform their families of their welfare. 



31 8 Zebulon M. Pike 

Elsewhere Pike gives a description of the city Chihua- 
hua at this time: "Its population may be estimated at 
7000. It is an oblong square, on the east side of a small 
stream which discharges into the River Conchos. On 
its south extremity is a small but elegant church. In 
the public square stands the principal church, royal 
treasury, town-house, and the richest shops. At the 
western extremity is another church for the military, a 
superb hospital belonging formerly to the Jesuits' pos- 
sessions, the church of the monks of St. Francis, St, 
Domingo, the military academy, and quartel del tropa. 
On the north-west were two or three missions, very 
handsomely situated on a small stream which comes in 
from the west. About one mile to the south of the town 
is a large aqueduct which conveys the water round it, 
to the east, into the main stream below the town, in the 
center of which is raised a reservoir for the water, whence 
it is to be conducted by pipes to the different parts of the 
city, and in the public square is to be a fountain and 
jet d'eau, which will be both ornamental and useful. 
The principal church at Chihuahua was the most su- 
perb building we saw in New Spain. Its whole front 
was covered with statues of the apostles and the different 
saints, set in niches of the wall, and the windows, doors, 
etc., were ornamented with sculpture. I never was 
within the doors, but was informed by Robinson that 
the decorations were immensely rich. Some men, whom 
we supposed entitled to credit, informed us that the 
church was built by a tax of i2| cents laid on each ingot 
of gold or silver taken out of the mines in the vicinity 



Through Old Mexico 319 

in years. Its cost, with decorations, was ^1,500,000 and 
when it was finished there remained 1^300,000 of the fund 
unappropriated. At the south side of Chihuahua is 
^he pubHc walk, formed by three rows of trees whose 
branches nearly entwine over the heads of the passengers 
below. At different distances there are seats for per- 
sons to repose on. At each end of the walks there were 
circular seats, on which, in the evening, the company 
collected and amused themselves with the guitar, and 
songs in Spanish, Italian, and French, adapted to the 
voluptuous manners of the country. In this city, as 
well as all others of any consideration, there are patrols 
of soldiers during the night, who stop every person at 
nine o'clock and examine them. My countersign was 
'Americans."* 

From the privations of the Arkansas and the perils of 
the Sangre de Cristo Mountains to the enforced hospital- 
ities of the Spaniards was a brief space in point of time. 
The change could not have been unwelcome to the 
young commander. His days and nights were spent 
in riding in a coach with his friend Malgares, dining 
with Colonel Mayner, drinking port with the Vallois, 
visiting Secretary Villamil, and various afternoons at 
the hospital and gay Caberaries. Meanwhile he used 
his eyes and ears to advantage and later was able to 
give the following lively account of his friends, the 
enemy: 

"Their women have black eyes and hair, fine teeth, 
and are generally brunettes. I met but one exception 
to this rule, at Chihuahua — a fair lady, who, by way 



320 Zebulon M. Pike 



of distinction, was called 'the girl with light hair/ 
They are all inclining a little to en bon point; but none 
or few are elegant figures. Their dress generally is short 
jackets and petticoats and high-heeled shoes, without 
any head-dress. Over the whole dress they have a silk 
wrapper, which they always wear and, when in the 
presence of men, affect to bring over their faces, but 
from under which you frequently see peeping a large 
sparkling black eye. As we approached the Atlantic 
and our frontiers, we saw several ladies who wore the 
gowns of our countrywomen, which they conceived to 
be much more elegant than their ancient costume. 
The lower class of the men are generally dressed in 
broad-brimmed hats, short coats, large waistcoats, and 
small clothes always open at the knees (owing, as I sup- 
pose, to the greater freedom it gives to the limbs on 
horseback), a kind of leather boot or wrapper bound 
round the leg somewhat in the manner of our frontier- 
men's leggings, and gartered on. The boot is of a soft, 
pliable leather, but not colored. In the eastern prov- 
inces the dragoons wear, over this wrapper or boot, a 
sort of jack-boot made of sole-leather, to which are 
fastened, by a rivet, the spurs, the gaffs of which are 
sometimes near an inch in length; but the spurs of the 
gentlemen and officers, although clumsy to our ideas, 
are frequently ornamented with raised silver-work on 
the shoulders, and the straps embroidered with silver 
and gold thread. They are always ready to mount their 
horses, on which the inhabitants of the internal provinces 
spend nearly half the day. This description will apply 



Through Old Mexico 321 

generally to the dress of all the men of the provinces for 
the lower class; but in their cities, among the more fash- 
ionable, they dress after the European or United States 
modes, with not more variation than we see in our cities 
from one six months to another. 

"Both men and women have remarkably fine hair, 
and pride themselves in the display of it. Their amuse- 
ments are music, singing, dancing, and gambling. The 
latter is strictly prohibited, but the prohibition is not 

much attended to. The dance of is danced by one 

man and two women, who beat time to the music, which 
is soft and voluptuous, but sometimes changing to a 
lively, gay air. The dancers exhibit the motions of the 
soul by gestures of the body, snapping the fingers, and 
sometimes meeting in a stretched embrace. The fan- 
dango is danced to various figures and numbers. The 
minuet is still danced by the superior class only. The 
music made use of is the guitar, vioHn, and singers, 
who, in the first-described dance, accompany the music 
with their hands and voices, having always some words 
adapted to the music. 

"Their games are cards, billiards, horse-racing, and 
cock-fighting, the first and last of which are carried to 
the most extravagant lengths, losing and winning im- 
mense sums. The present commandant-general is very 
severe with his oflRcers in these respects, frequently send- 
ing them to some frontier post in confinement for 
months, for no other fault than having lost large sums 
at play. At every town of consequence is a pubHc 
walk, where the ladies and gentlemen meet and sing 



322 Zebulon M. Pike 

songs, which are always on the subject of love or the 
social board. The females have fine voices, and sing 
in French, Italian, and Spanish, the whole company 
joining in the chorus. 

"In their houses the ladies play the guitar, and gen- 
erally accompany it with their voices. They either sit 
down on the carpet cross-legged, or loll on a sofa. To 
sit upright in a chair appeared to put them to great in- 
convenience; although the better class would some- 
times do it on our first introduction, they soon took the 
liberty of following their old habits. In their eating 
and drinking they are remarkably temperate. Early 
in the morning you receive a dish of chocolate and a 
cake; at twelve you dine on several dishes of meat, 
fowls, and fish, after which you have a variety of con- 
fections, and indeed an elegant dessert; then drink 
a few glasses of wine, sing a few songs, and retire 
to take a siesta, or afternoon's nap, which is taken by 
rich and poor. About two o'clock the windows and 
doors are all closed, the streets deserted, and the still- 
ness of midnight reigns throughout. About four o'clock 
they rise, wash, and dress, and prepare for the dissipa- 
tion of the night. About eleven o'clock some refresh- 
ments are offered, but few take any, except a little wine 
and water and candied sugar. 

"The government has multiplied the difficulties of 
Europeans intermarrying with the Creoles, or Metifs 
to such a degree that it is difficult for such a marriage 
to take place. An officer wishing to marry a lady not 
from Europe is obliged to acquire certificates of the 



Through Old Mexico 323 

purity of her descent 200 years back, and transmit it 
to the court, when the Hcense will be returned; but 
should she be the daughter of a man of the rank of 
captain or upward this nicety vanishes, as rank puri- 
fies the blood of the descendants. 

''Sunday, Apr. igth. In the evening at a fandango. 

"Apr. 20th. We this day learned that an American 
officer had gone on to the city of Mexico. This was an 
enigma to us inexplicable, as we conceived that the 
jealousy of the Spanish government would have pre- 
vented any foreign officer from penetrating the country; 
and why the United States could send an authorized 
agent to the viceroyalty, when the Spanish govern- 
ment had at the seat of our government a charge 
d'affaires, served but to darken the conjectures. The 
person alluded to was Mr. Burling, a citizen of Missis- 
sippi Territory whose mission is now well known to 
the government. We likewise received an account of a 
commercial treaty having been entered into between 
Great Britain and the United States, which by the Dons 
was only considered as the preliminary step to an alli- 
ance offensive and defensive between the two nations. 

"Apr. 2ist. Presented the commanding general with 
a letter for General Wilkinson, which he promised to 
have forwarded to the governor of Texas. 

"Apr. 22d. Spent the day in reading and studying 
Spanish; the evening at Captain Villamil's. 

"Apr. 2^d. Dined at Don Pedro Vallois'; spent the 
evening with Colonel Mayner; bade him adieu, as he 
was to march the next day. In the evening received a 



324 Zebulon M. Pike 

letter from the commandant-general, informing me my 
papers were to be detained, giving a certificate of their 
numbers, contents, etc. 

"Apr. 2^th. Spent the evening at Zuloaga's with 
his relations. About sundown an officer of the govern- 
ment called upon me, and told me that the govern- 
ment had been informed that, in conversations in all 
societies, Robinson and myself had held forth political 
maxims and principles which, if just, I must be con- 
scious if generally disseminated would in a very few 
years be the occasion of a revolt of those kingdoms; 
that those impressions had taken such effect that it was 
no uncommon thing, in the circles in which he asso- 
ciated, to hear the comparative principles of a repub- 
lican and a monarchical government discussed, and 
even the allegiance due, in case of certain events, to the 
court called in question; that various characters of 
consideration had indulged themselves in those conver- 
sations, all of whom were noted and would be taken care 
of; but that, as respected myself and companion, it was 
the desire of his Excellency that while in the dominions 
of Spain we would not hold forth any conversations 
whatsoever, either on the subject of religion or politics. 

" I replied that it was true I had held various and free 
conversations on the subjects complained of, but only 
with men high in office, who might be supposed to be 
firmly attached to the king, and partial to the govern- 
ment of their country; that I had never gone among the 
poor and illiterate, preaching up republicanism or a free 
government; that as to the catholic religion, I had only 



Through Old Mexico 325 

combated some of what I conceived to be its illiberal 
dogmas; that I had spoken of it in all instances as a 
respectable branch of the Christian religion which, as 
well as all others, was tolerated in the United States; 
and that, had I come to that kingdom in a diplomatic 
character, delicacy toward the government would have 
sealed my lips; or had I been a prisoner of war, personal 
safety might have had the same effect; but, being there 
in the capacity which I was, not voluntarily, but by 
coercion of the Spanish government, which at the same 
time had officially notified me that they did not con- 
sider me under any restraint whatever; therefore, when 
called on, I should always give my opinions freely, either 
as to politics or religion; but at the same time with ur- 
banity, and a proper respect to the legitimate authori- 
ties of the country where I was, 

"He replied, 'Well, you may then rest assured your 
conduct will be represented in no very favorable point 
of view to your government.' 

"I rephed, 'To my government I am certainly re- 
sponsible, and to no other/ 

"He then left me. I immediately waited on some 
of my friends and notified them of the threat, at which 
they appeared much alarmed. We went immediately 
to consult (Malgares), who, to great attachment to his 
friends, joined the most incorruptible loyalty to his 
government. Our consultation ended in a determina- 
tion only to be silent, and watch events. 

"We suspected Walker to be the informant, but, 
whether just in our suspicion or not, I will not pretend 



326 Zebulon M. Pike 



to determine; for Robinson and myself frequently 
used to hold conversations in his presence purposely to 
have them communicated; but at last he discovered 
our intentions, and told us that if we calculated on 
making him a carrier of nev^s, we were mistaken; that 
he despised it. 

*' Jpr. 2^th. At eleven o'clock we called on his Ex- 
cellency, but vs^as informed that he was engaged. About 
three o'clock I received a message from him by Lieu- 
tenant Walker, informing me he was surprised I had 
not returned, and to call without ceremony in the even- 
ing; which I did, and presented him with a letter. He 
then also candidly informed me my party would not join 
me in the territory of the king of Spain, but that they 
should be attended to punctually, and forwarded on 
immediately after me; and requested that I should give 
orders to my sergeant to deliver up all his ammunition, 
and dispose in some manner of the horses he had in 
charge. I stated in reply that, with respect to am- 
munition, I would give orders to my sergeant to deliver, 
if demanded, all they possessed, more than was neces- 
sary to fill their horns; but, as to the horses, I consid- 
ered their loss was a charge that must be adjusted be- 
tween the two governments, and therefore should not 
give any directions concerning them, except as to bring- 
ing them on as far and as long as they were able to 
travel. He then gave me an invitation to dine with him 
on the morrow. 

" Sufjdayy Apr. 26th. Dined at the general's. In 
the evening went to Malgares', Zuloaga's and others. 



Through Old Mexico 327 



Wrote to my sergeant and Fero; to the latter of whom 
I sent $10, and to the others $161.84, to purchase 
clothes for the party. We had been some time sus- 
picious that the doctor was to be detained; but this 
evening he likewise obtained permission to pursue his 
journey with me, which diffused general joy through- 
out the party. 

"Apr. 2']th. Spent the day in making arrangements 
for our departure, writing to the sergeant, etc. 

"I will here mention some few anecdotes relative to 
[Walker], with whom we boarded during our stay in 
Chihuahua. When we came to the city we went to his 
quarters, by order of the general, and considered our- 
selves as guests, having not the least idea that we should 
be charged with board, knowing with what pleasure any 
American officer would receive and entertain a foreign 
brother soldier situated as we were, and that we should 
conceive it a great insult to be offered pay under similar 
circumstances. But one day, after we had been there 
about a week, he presented to me an account for Robin- 
son's and my board, receipted, and begged, if the general 
inquired of me, that I would say I had paid it. This 
naturally led me to demand how the thing originated. 
He with considerable embarrassment observed that he 
had taken the liberty to remark to the general that he 
thought he should be allowed an extra allowance, in or- 
der to be enabled to treat us with some little distinction. 
The general flew into a violent passion, and demanded 
if I had not paid him for our board .? To which the 
other replied, No, he did not expect pay of us. He 



328 Zebulon M. Pike 

ordered him immediately to demand pay, to receive it, 
sign a receipt, and lodge it in his hands; and added that 
he would consult me if the thing was done. This he 
never did; yet I took care, every Sunday after that, to 
deposit in the hands of Walker a sum which was con- 
sidered the proportion for Robinson and myself, Mal- 
gares and several others of the Spanish officers having 
heard of the thing, waited on us much mortified, saying 
with what pleasure they would have entertained us had 
not the designation of the general pointed out his will 
on the subject. 

"[Walker] had living with him an old negro, the only 
one I saw on that side of St. Antonio, who was the prop- 
erty of some person who resided near Natchez, and 
who had been taken with Nolan. Having been ac- 
quainted with him in the Mississippi country, he so- 
licited and obtained permission for old Caesar to live 
with him. I found him very communicative and use- 
ful. The day I arrived, when we were left alone, he 
came in, looked round at the walls of the room, and 
exclaimed, 'What, all gone.' I demanded an expla- 
nation, and he informed me that the maps of the different 
provinces, as taken by Walker, and other surveyors, 
had been hung up against the walls; but that the day we 
arrived they had all been taken down and deposited in a 
closet which he designated. 

He gave various reasons for having left the United 
Spates and joined the Spanish service; one of which was, 
his father having been ill-treated, as he conceived, by G. 
at Natchez. At Chihuahua he had charge of the mili- 



Through Old Mexico 329 

tary school, which consisted of about 15 young men of 
the first families of the provinces; also of the public 
water-works of the city, on a plan devised by the royal 
engineer of Mexico; of the building of a church; of 
the casting of small artillery, fabrication of arms, etc. 
Thus, though he had tendered his resignation, they 
knew his value too well to part with him, and would 
not accept of it, but still kept him in a subordinate 
position, in order that he might be more dependent and 
more useful. Although he candidly confessed his dis- 
gust at their service, manners, morals, and political 
establishments, yet he never made a communication to 
us which he was bound in honor to conceal; but on the 
contrary fulfilled the station of informer which in that 
country is considered no disgrace, with great punctual- 
ity. In this city the proverb was literally true that 
'walls have ears'; for scarcely anything could pass that 
his Excellency did not know in a few hours. 

"In the evening I was notified to be ready to march 
the next day at three o'clock. 

"Apr. 2Sth. In the morning Malgares waited on us, 
and informed us he was to accompany us some distance 
on the route. After bidding adieu to all our friends, we 
marched at a quarter past three o'clock, and encamped 
at nine o'clock at a stony spring; passed near Chihua- 
hua, a small ridge of mountains, and then encamped 
in a hollow. 

"As we were riding along Malgares rode up to me 
and informed me that the general had given orders 
that I should not be permitted to make any astro- 



330 Zebulon M. Pike 

nomical observations. To this I replied that he well 
knew I never had attempted making any since I had 
been conducted into the Spanish dominions. 

"When about to make my journal, Malgares changed 
color, and informed me it was his orders I should not 
take notes; but added, 'you have a good memory, and 
when you get to Cogquilla you can bring it all up.' 
At first I felt considerably indignant, and was on the 
point of refusing to comply; but thinking for a moment 
of the many politenesses I had received from his hands 
induced me merely to bow assent with a smile. We 
proceeded on our route, but had not gone far before I 
made a pretext to halt, established my boy as a vedet, 
sat down peaceably under a bush, and made my notes. 
This course I pursued ever after, not without some very 
considerable degree of trouble to separate myself from 
the party. 

"Arrived at the fort of St. Paul at eleven o'clock, situ- 
ated on a small river of the same name. At the time 
we were there the river was not wider than a mill 
stream; but sometimes it is 300 yards wide, and im- 
passable. Distance 30 miles. 

*'Apr. ;^oth. Marched at six o'clock, and at eleven 
arrived at the river Conchos — 24 miles; beautiful green 
trees on its banks. I was taken very sick at half-past ten 
o'clock. Arrived at night at a small station on the river 
Conchos, garrisoned by a sergeant and 10 men from Fort 
Conchos, 15 leagues up said river. Distance 43 miles. 

"May 1st. Marched up the Conchos to its con- 
fluence with the river Florida, 15 leagues from where 



Through Old Mexico 331 

we left the former river, and took up the latter, which 
bears from the Conchos S. 80 and 50 E. On its banks 
are some very flourishing settlements, and they are well 
timbered. A poor miserable village is at the confluence. 
Came 10 miles up the Florida to dinner, and at night 
stopped at a private house. This property, or plan- 
tation, was valued formerly at ^300,000, extending on 
the Florida, from the place where we slept on the 
30th of April, 30 leagues up said river. Distance 45 
miles. 

"Finding that a new species of discipline had taken 
place, and that the suspicions of my friend Malgares 
were much more acute than ever, I conceived it neces- 
sary to take some steps to secure the notes I had taken, 
which had been clandestinely acquired. In the night 
I arose, and after making my men charge all their 
pieces well, I took my small books and rolled them up 
in small rolls, tore a fine shirt to pieces, and wrapped it 
round the papers, and put them down in the barrels of 
the guns, until we just left room for the tompoins [tam- 
pions], which were then carefully put in; the remainder 
we secured about our bodies under our shirts. This 
occupied about two hours, but was eff^ected without 
discovery and without suspicions. 

"May 2d. Marched early, and in 4I hours arrived 
at Guaxequillo, situated on the river Florida, where we 
were to exchange our friend Malgares for Captain Bar- 
elo, who was a Mexican by birth, born near the capital 
and entered as a cadet at Guaxequillo near 20 years past, 
and who, by his extraordinary merits, being a Creolian, 



332 Zebulon M. Pike 

had been promoted to a captaincy, which was even by 
himself considered his ultimate promotion. He was 
a gentleman in his manners, generous and frank, and I 
believe a good soldier. 

"Sunday, May 3 J. At Guaxequillo the captain gave 
up his command to Malgares. At night the officers 
gave a ball, at which appeared at least sixty women, 
ten or a dozen of whom were very handsome. 

"May ^th. Don Hymen Guloo arrived from Chi- 
huahua, accompanied by a citizen and a friar, who had 
been arrested by order of the commandant-general, and 
was on his way to Mexico for trial. 

"May 6th. Marched at five o'clock; ascended the 
"iver four miles, when we left it to our right and took 
)fF S. 60° E., eight miles. Our friend Malgares accom- 
panied us a few miles, to whom we bade an eternal 
adieu, if war does not bring us together in the field of 
battle opposed as the most deadly enemies, when our 
hearts acknowledge the greatest friendship. Halted at 
ten o'clock and marched again at four. No water on 
the road; detached a Spanish soldier in search of some, 
who did not join us until twelve o'clock at night. En- 
camped in the open prairie; no wood; no water, ex- 
cept what the soldier brought us in gourds. The mules 
came up at eleven o'clock at night. Distance 30 miles. 

"May Jth. Marched very early; wind fresh from 
the south. The punctuality of Captain Barelo as to 
hours was remarkable. Arrived at half past nine 
o'clock at a Spring, the first water from Guaxequillo. 
The mules did not unload, but continued nine miles 



Through Old Mexico ;^;^^ 

to another spring at the foot of a mountain with good 
pasturage round it; mountains on each side all day. 

'^May gth. Marched between four and five o'clock 
and arrived at Pelia at eight. This is only a station 
for a few soldiers, but is surrounded by mines. At this 
place are two large warm springs, strongly impregnated 
with sulphur, and this is the water obliged to be used 
by the party who are stationed there. Here we re- 
mained all day. Captain Barelo had two beeves killed 
for his and my men, and charged nothing to either. 
Here he received orders from the general to lead us 
through the wilderness to Montelovez, in order that we 
should not approximate to the frontiers of Mexico, 
which we should have done by the usual route to Patos, 
Parras, etc. 

"Sunday, May loth. Marched past one copper 
mine, now diligently worked. At this place the pro- 
prietor had 100,000 sheep, cattle and horses, etc. Ar- 
rived at the Cadena, a house built and occupied by a 
priest. It is situated on a small stream at a pass of the 
mountains, called by the Spaniards Door of the Prison, 
from its being surrounded by mountains. The pro- 
prietor was at Sumbratto, distance six days march. 
This hacienda was obliged to furnish accommodations 
to all travellers. 

"May iith. Marched and arrived at Maupemie at 
eight o'clock, a village situated at the foot of a moun- 
tain of minerals, where they worked eight or nine 
mines. The mass of the people were naked and starved 
wretches. The proprietor of the mines gave us an ele- 



334 Zebulon M. Pike 

gant repast. Here the orders of Salcedo in regard to 
the change of route were explained to me by the cap- 
tain. I repHed that they excited my laughter, as there 
were disaffected persons sufficient to serve as guides 
should an army ever come to this country. 

"Came on three miles further, where were fig-trees 
and a fruit called by the French, La Grain, situated on 
a little stream which flowed through the gardens, and 
formed a terrestrial paradise. Here we remained all 
day sleeping in the shade of the fig-trees, and at night 
continued our residence in the garden. We obliged the 
inhabitants with a ball, who expressed great anxiety 
for a relief from their present distressed state, and a 
change of government. 

"May 12th. Was awakened in the morning by the 
singing of the birds and the perfume of the trees around. 
I attempted to send two of my soldiers to town but they 
were overtaken by a dragoon and ordered back; on 
their return I again ordered them to go, and told them 
if a soldier attempted to stop them to take him off his 
horse and flog him. This I did, as I conceived it was 
the duty of the captain to explain his orders relative to 
me, which he had not done; and I conceived that this 
would bring on an explanation. They were pursued 
by a dragoon through the town, who rode after them, 
making use of ill language. They attempted to catch 
him but could not. As I had mentioned my intention 
of sending my men to town after some stores to Captain 
Barelo, and he had not made any objections, I con- 
ceived it was acting with duplicity to send men to watch 



Through Old Mexico 335 

the movements of my messengers. I therefore deter- 
mined they should punish the dragoon unless the cap- 
tain had candor sufficient to explain his reasons for not 
wishing my men to go to town, in which wish I should 
undoubtedly have acquiesced; but as he never men- 
tioned the circumstance, I was guardedly silent, and 
the affair never interrupted our harmony. 

"We marched at five o'clock; came on 15 miles and 
encamped without water. One mile on this side of the 
little village the road branches out into three. The 
right-hand one by Pattos, Paras, Saltelo, etc., is the 
main road to [the city of] Mexico and San Antonio. 
The road which we took leaves all the villages a little 
to the right, passing only some plantations. The left- 
hand one goes immediately through the mountains to 
Montelovez, but is dangerous for small parties on ac- 
count of the savages; this road is called the route by the 
Bolson of Maupeme, and was first traveled by Mon- 
sieur de Croix, afterward viceroy of Peru. In passing 
from Chihuahua to Texas, by this route, you make in 
seven days what it takes you 15 or 20 by the ordinary 
one; but it is very scarce of water, and your guards 
must either be so strong as to defy the Apaches, or cal- 
culate to escape them by swiftness; for they fill those 
mountains, whence they continually carry on a preda- 
tory war against the Spanish settlements and caravans. 

"We this day passed on to the territories of the Mar- 
quis de San Miquel, who owns from the mountains of 
the Rio del Norte to some distance in the kingdom of 
Old Mexico. 



336 Zebulon M. Pike 



"May lyh. Came on to the river Brasses, on which 
was the Ranche de St. Antonio, part of the marquis' 
estate. My boy and self halted at the river Brasses to 
water our horses, having ridden on ahead, and took 
their bridles from their mouths in order that they might 
drink freely, which they could not do with Spanish 
bridles. The horse I rode had been accustomed to 
being held by his master in a peculiar manner when 
bridled, and would not let me put it on again for a long 
time; in the meantime my boy's horse ran away, and 
it was out of our power to catch him again. But 
when we arrived at the Ranche, we soon had out a 
number of boys, who brought in the horse and all his 
different equipments, which were scattered on the route. 
This certainly was a strong proof of their honesty, and 
did not go unrewarded. In the evening we gave them 
a ball on the green, according to custom. We here 
learned that one peck of corn, with three pounds of meat 
per week, was the allowance given a grown person. 

"May i^th. Did not march until half past four 
o'clock [p. m.]. About nine o'clock an officer arrived 
from St. Rosa with 24 men, with two Apaches in irons. 
They were noble looking fellows, of large stature, and 
appeared by no means cast down by their misfortunes, 
although they knew their fate was transportation be- 
yond the sea, never more to see their friends and rela- 
tions. 

" Knowing as I did the intention of the Spaniards 
toward those people, I would have liberated them if in 
my power. I went near them, gave them to understand 



Through Old Mexico 337 

we were friends, and conveyed to them some articles 
which would be of service if chance offered. 

"This day the thermometer stood at 30° Reaumur 
99|° Fahrenheit. The dust and drought of the road 
obliged us to march in the night, when we came 15 
miles and encamped without water. Indeed, this road 
which the general obliged us to take is almost impas- 
sable at this season for want of water, whilst the other 
is plentifully suppHed. 

"May lyh. Marched early and came on five miles, 
when we arrived at a pit dug in a hollow, which afforded 
a small quantity of water for ourselves and beasts. 
Here we were obliged to remain all day in order to travel 
in the night, as our beasts could enjoy the benefit of 
water. Left at half past five o'clock and came on 15 
miles by eleven o'clock, when we encamped without 
water or food for our beasts. Passed a miserable 
burnt-up soil. Distance 20 miles. 

" Sunday, May lyth. Marched; about seven o' clock 
came in sight of Paras, which we left on the right and 
halted at the hacienda of St. Lorenzo, a short league 
to the north of said village. At the hacienda of St. 
Lorenzo was a young priest, who was extremely anxious 
for a change of government, and came to our beds and 
conversed for hours on the subject. 

"May iSth. Marched early and came through a 
mountainous tract of country, well watered, with houses 
situated here and there amongst the rocks. Joined the 
main road at a Hacienda belonging to the Marquis de 
San Miquel; good gardens and fruit; also a fine stream. 



338 Zebulon M. Pike 

The mules did not arrive until late at night, when it 
had commenced raining. 

"May igth. Did not march until three o'clock, the 
captain not being very v^ell. Here he determined to 
take the main road, notwithstanding the orders of 
General Salcedo. Came on lo miles. Met a deserter 
from Captain Johnston's company. He returned, came 
to camp, and begged me to take him back to his com- 
pany; but I would not give any encouragement to the 
scoundrel — only a little change, as he was without a 
farthing. 

"May 20th. Came to the Hacienda of Pattos by 
nine o'clock. This is a handsome place, where the 
Marquis de San Miquel frequently spends his summers, 
the distance enabling him to come from Mexico in his 
coach in lo days. Here we met the Mexican post-rider 
going to Chihuahua. Don Hymen, who had left us at 
Paras, joined in a coach and six, in which we came out 
to a little settlement called the Florida, one league 
from Pattos due south. Distance i8 miles. 

"The Hacienda of Pattos was a square inclosure of 
about 300 feet, the building being one story high, but 
some of the apartments were elegantly furnished. In 
the center of the square was a jet d'eau, which cast forth 
water from eight spouts, extended from a colossean 
female form. From this fountain all the neighboring 
inhabitants got their supply of water. The marquis 
had likewise a very handsome church, which, with its 
ornaments, cost him at least ^20,000; to officiate in 
which, he maintained a Httle stiff superstitious priest. 



Through Old Mexico 339 

In the rear of the palace, for so it might be called, was 
a fish-pond in which were immense numbers of fine 
fish. The population of Florida is about 2,000 souls. 
This was our nearest point to the city of Mexico. 

"May 22d. Marched at three o'clock; came on 16 
miles to a small shed, and in the afternoon to la Rancho, 
eight miles to the left of the main road, near the foot 
of the mountain, where was a pond of water, but no 
houses. Some Spanish soldiers were here. We left Pat- 
tos mountain on our right and left, but here was a cross 
mountain over which we were to pass in the morning. 

"The Marquis maintains 1,500 soldiers to protect his 
vassals and property from the savages. They are all 
cavalry, as well dressed and armed as the king's, but are 
treated by the king's troops as vastly inferior. 

''Sunday, May 2^th. Marched at an early hour and 
came through the mountains, where there was scarcely 
any road, called the Mountain of the Three Rivers. 
At the 13th mile joined the main road, which we had 
left to our right on the 22nd instant, and in one hour 
after came to the main Mexican road from the eastern 
provinces; thence north-west to the Rancho, nine miles 
from Montelovez whence the captain sent in an express 
to give notice of our approach. 

"May 2^th. In the afternoon Lieutenant Adams, 
commandant of the company of Montelovez, arrived in 
a coach and six to escort us to town, where we arrived 
about five o'clock. In the evening visited Captain de 
Ferara, commandant of the troops of Cogquilla, and in- 
spector of the five provinces. 



340 Zebulon M. Pike 

"Lieutenant Adams, who commanded this place, 
was the son of an Irish engineer in the service of Spain. 
He had married a rich girl of the Passo del Norte, and 
they lived here in elegance and style, for the country. 
We put up at his quarters and were very hospitably en- 
tertained. 

''May 26th. Made preparations for marching the 
next day. I arose early, before any of our people were 
up, and walked nearly round the town; and from the hill 
took a small survey, with my pencil and a pocket com- 
pass which I always carried with me. Returned and 
found them at breakfast, they having sent three or four 
of my men to search for me. The Spanish troops at this 
place were remarkably polite, always fronting and salut- 
ing when I passed. This I attributed to their comman- 
dant, Lieutenant Adams. 

''May 2'jth. Marched at seven o'clock, after taking 
an affectionate leave of Don Hymen, and at half past 
twelve arrived at the Hacienda of Don Melcher, situated 
on the same stream of Montelovez. 

"Don Melcher was a man of very large fortune, 
polite, generous, and friendly. He had in his service a 
man who had deserted from Captain Lockwood's com- 
pany, first regiment of infantry, by the name of Pratt. 
From this man he had acquired a considerable quan- 
tity of crude indigested information relative to the 
United States, and when he met with us his thirst after 
knowledge of our laws and institutions appeared to be 
insatiable. He caused a fine large sheep to be killed 
and presented to my men. 




R is 

w Oh 

w .2 



3i O 



■^ p 



■t: o 



Through Old Mexico 341 

^^May 2%th. Marched early and arrived at Encina 
Hacienda at ten o'clock. This place was owned by 
Don Barego. 

"When we arrived at the Hacienda of Encina, I found 
a youth of 18 sitting in the house quite genteelly dressed, 
whom I Immediately recognized from his physiognomy 
to be an American, and entered into conversation with 
him. He expressed great satisfaction at meeting a 
countryman, and we had a great deal of conversation. 
He sat at a table with us and partook of a cold collation 
of fruits and confectionery, but I was much surprised 
to learn, shortly after we quit the table, that he was a 
deserter from our army, on which I questioned him, and 
he repHed that his name was Griffith; he had enlisted 
in Philadelphia, arrived at New Orleans, and deserted 
as soon as possible; the Spaniards had treated him 
much better than his own countrymen, and he should 
never return. I was extremely astonished at his inso- 
lence, and mortified that I should have been betrayed 
into any polite conduct toward the scoundrel. I told 
him that It was astonishing he should have had the im- 
pertinence to address himself to me, knowing that I was 
an American officer. He muttered something about 
being in a country where he was protected, etc.; on 
which I told him that if he again opened his mouth to 
me, I would Instantly chastise him, notwithstanding his 
supposed protection. He was silent; I called up one of 
my soldiers and told him in his hearing, that if he at- 
tempted to mix with them to turn him out of the com- 
pany; which they executed by leading him to the door 



342 Zebulon M. Pike 

of their room a short time after, when he entered it. 
When dinner was nearly ready, I sent a message to the 
proprietor, that we assumed we had no right to say whom 
he should introduce at table, but that we should think 
it a great indignity offered a Spanish officer to attempt 
to set him down at the same board with a deserter from 
their army; and that if the man who was at the table 
in the morning were to make his appearance again, we 
should decline to eat at it. He replied that it was an 
accident which had produced the event of the morning; 
that he was sorry our feelings had been injured, and 
that he would take care he did not appear again while 
we were there. 

" Our good friend Don Melcher here overtook us, and 
passed the evening with us. 

"This day we passed the last mountains, and again 
entered the great Mississippi valley, it being six months 
and 13 days since we first came in sight of them. Dis- 
tance 20 miles." 

This devious journey by which Pike and his party 
were brought out of Mexico led him southward from 
Chihuahua, cutting through the northeast corner of the 
province of Durango, and from thence northeast 
through the province of Coahuila, crossing the Brazos 
River and afterward the Rio Grande at Eagle Pass, 
near which is the present town of Ciudad Porfirio 
Diaz. 



CHAPTER IX 

THROUGH TEXAS TO LOUISIANA 

June ist — July ist, 1807 

"Mondayy June 1st. Arrived at the Presidio Rio 
Grande at eight o'clock. This place was the position 
to which our friend Barelo had been ordered, and which 
had been very highly spoken of to him; but he found 
himself miserably mistaken, for it was with the greatest 
difficulty we obtained anything to eat, which mortified 
him extremely. 

"When at Chihuahua, General Salcedo had asked me 
if I had not lost a man by desertion, to which I replied 
in the negative. He then informed me that an Ameri- 
can had arrived at the Presidio Rio Grande in the last 
year; that he had at first confined him, but that he was 
now released and practicing physic; and that he wished 
me to examine him on my arrival. I therefore had 
him sent for; the moment he entered the room I dis- 
covered he never had received a liberal education, or 
had been accustomed to polished society; I told him 
the reason I had requested to see him, and that I had 
it in my power to serve him if I found him a character 
worthy of interference. 

343 



344 Zebulon M. Pike 

"He then related the following story; that his name 
was Martin Henderson; that he was born in Rockbridge 
County, State of Virginia; that he had been brought up 
a farmer; but, that coming early to the State of Ken- 
tucky and to Tennessee, he had acquired a taste of 
frontier life, and that in the spring of 1806, himself 
and four companions had left the Saline in the district of 
Saint Genevieve, Upper Louisiana, in order to penetrate 
through the woods to the province of Texas; that his 
companions had left him on the White river, and that 
he had continued on; that in swimming some western 
branch his horse sunk under him, and it was with diffi- 
culty he made the shore with his gun. Here he waited 
two or three days until his horse rose, and he then got his 
saddle-bags; but all his notes on the country, courses, 
etc., were destroyed. He then proceeded on foot for a 
few days, when he was met by 30 or 40 Osage warriors, 
who, on his telling them he was going to the Spaniards, 
were about to kill him; but on his saying he would go 
to the Americans, they held a consultation over him, 
and finally seized on his clothes and divided them be- 
tween them; then his pistols, compass, dirk, and watch, 
which they took to pieces and hung in their noses and 
ears; then they stripped him naked, and round his body 
found a belt with gold pieces sewed in it; this they also 
took, and finally seized on his gun and ammunition, 
and were marching off to leave him in that situation; 
but he followed them, thinking it better to be killed 
than left in that state to die by hunger and cold. The 
savages after some time halted, and one pulled off an 



Through Texas to Louisiana 345 

old pair of leggings and gave him, another mockinsons, 
a third a buffalo robe, and the one who had carried his 
heavy rifle had by this time become tired of his prize, 
they never using rifles; they counted him out 25 charges 
of powder and ball, then sent two Indians with him, 
who put him on a war-trace, which they said led to 
American establishments; and as soon as the Indians 
left him he directed his course as he supposed for Saint 
Antonio. He then killed deer and made himself some 
clothes. He proceeded on and expended all his am- 
munition three days before he struck the Grand Road, 
nearly at the Rio Grande. He further added that he 
had discovered two mines, one of silver and the other of 
gold, the situation of which he particularly described; 
but that the general had taken the samples from him. 
That he would not attempt to pass himself on us for a 
physician, and hoped, as he only used simples and was 
careful to do no harm, we would not betray him. He 
further added that since his being in the country he 
had made, from information, maps of all the adjacent 
country; but that they had been taken from him. 

" I had early concluded that he was an agent of Burr's 
and was revolving in my mind whether I should de- 
nounce him as such to the commandant, but feeling re- 
luctant from an apprehension that he might be innocent, 
when one of my men came in and informed me that the 
man was Trainer, who had killed Major Bashier in the 
wilderness between Natchez and Tennessee, when he was 
his hireling. He shot him when taking a nap at noon, 
through the head with his own pistols. The Governor 



346 Zebulon M. Pike 

of the State, and the Major's friends offered a very con- 
siderable reward for his apprehension, which obUged 
him to quit the State; and with an Amazonian woman, 
who handled arms and hunted like a savage, he retreated 
to the source of the White river; but, being routed from 
that retreat by Captain Maney, of the United States 
army and a party of Cherokees, he and his female com- 
panion bore west; she, proving to be pregnant was left 
by him on the desert, and I was informed arrived at the 
settlements on the Red river, but by what means is to 
me unknown. The articles and money taken from him 
by the Osages were the property of the deceased major. 
I then reported the circumstances to Captain Barelo, 
who had him immediately confined, until the will of 
Governor Cordero should be known, who informed 
me, when at San Antonio that he would have him sent 
to some place of perpetual confinement in the interior. 
Thus vengeance has overtaken the ingrate and mur- 
derer, when he least expected it. 

"In the evening we went to see some performers on 
the slack-rope, who were in no way extraordinary in 
their performances, except in language which would 
bring a blush on the cheek of the most abandoned of 
the female sex in the United States. 

" Jujie 2nd. In the day time were endeavoring to 
regulate our watches by the compass, and in an instant 
that my back was turned some person stole it. I could 
by no means recover it, and I had strong suspicions that 
the theft was approved, as the instrument had occa- 
sioned great dissatisfaction. 



Through Texas to Louisiana 347 

"This day the captain went out to dine with some 
monks, who would have thought it profanation to have 
had us as their guests, notwithstanding the priest of the 
place had escorted us round the town and to all the 
missions; we found him a very communicative, liberal, 
and intelligent man. We saw no resource for a dinner 
but in the inventive genius of a little Frenchman who 
had accompanied us from Chihuahua, where he had 
been officiating one year as cook to the general, of 
whom he gave us many interesting anecdotes, and in 
fact was of infinite service to us; we supported him and 
he served as cook, interpreter, etc. It was astonishing 
with what zeal he strove to acquire news and informa- 
tion for us; and as he had been four times through the 
provinces, he had acquired considerable knowledge of 
the country, people, etc. He went off and in a very 
short time returned with table-cloth, plates, a dinner of 
three or four courses, a bottle of wine, and a pretty girl 
to attend on the table. We inquired by what magic he 
had brought this about, and found that he had been 
to one of the officers and notified him that it was the 
wish of the commandant that he should supply the two 
Americans with a decent dinner, which was done; but 
we took care to compensate them for their trouble. 
This we explained to Barelo in the evening, and he 
laughed heartily. 

"We parted from the captain with regrets and as- 
surances of remembrance. Departed at five o'clock, 

escorted by Ensign and men; came on 

to the Rio Grande, which we passed, and encamped 



348 Zebulon M. Pike 

at a Rancho on the other side. Distance seven 
miles. 

"June 3^. The mosquitoes, which had commenced 
the first night on this side of Montelovez, now became 
very troublesome. This day saw the first horse-flies; 
saw some wild horses; came on in the open plain, and 
in a dry time, when there was no water. Distance 30 
miles. 

"June ^th. After losing two horses in passing the 
river, the water having fallen so that we forded, we 
crossed and continued our route. Passed two herds of 
wild horses, which left the road for us. Halted at a 
pond on the left of the road, 15 miles, where we saw 
the first oak since we left New Mexico, and this was 
scrub oak. Passed many deer yesterday and to-day. 
Came on to a small creek at night, where we met a 
party of the company of Saint Fernandez returning 
from the Hne. Distance 31 miles. 

"June 6th. Marched early and met several parties 
of troops returning from Texas where they had been 
sent to re-enforce, when our troops were near the line. 
Immense number of cross-roads made by the wild 
horses. Killed a wild hog, which on examination I 
found to be very different from the tame breed, smaller, 
browner, with long hair and short legs; they are to be 
found in all parts between Red river and the Spanish 
settlements. 

"Passed an encampment made by the Lee Panes, 
met one of said nation with his wife. In the afternoon 
struck the woodland, which was the first we had been 



Through Texas to Louisiana 349 

in from the time we left the Osage nation. Distance 
13 miles." 

By the Lee Panes is to be understood the Lipans, a 
branch of the Apaches, and speaking the same language. 
The party has been following the old Spanish trail 
crossing the Nueces River, which Pike spells "Nois- 
seur" and the Medino — the later name for "Mariano" 
— and is now about to enter San Antonio. This town 
had been an ecclesiastical and military center for the 
Spaniards since 1720. It has always retained its mili- 
tary distinction; and since the massacre of Texans by 
the Mexicans at the Alamo in 1836 is regarded as the 
Thermopylae of Texas, 

"Sunday, June 'jth. Came on 15 miles to the river 
Mariano — the line between Texas and Cogquilla — a 
pretty little stream, Rancho, Thence in the afternoon 
to Saint Antonio. We halted at the mission of Saint 
Joseph; received in a friendly manner by the priest of 
the mission and others. 

"We were met out of Saint Antonio about three miles 
by Governors Cordero and Herrara, in a coach. We re- 
paired to their quarters, where we were received like 
their children. Cordero informed me that he had dis- 
cretionary orders as to the mode of my going out of 
the country; that he therefore wished me to choose my 
time, mode, etc.; that any sum of money I might want 
was at my service; that in the meantime Robinson and 
myself would make his quarters our home; and that he 
had caused to be vacated and prepared a house imme- 
diately opposite for the reception of my men. In the 



350 Zebulon M. Pike 

evening his levee w^as attended by a crov^d of officers 
and priests, among whom were Father M'Guire and 
Dr. Zerbin. After supper we went to the public square, 
where might be seen the two governors joined in a 
dance with people who in the daytime would approach 
them with reverence and awe. 

"We were here introduced to the sister of Lieutenant 
Malgares* wife, who was one of the finest women we 
saw. She was married to a Captain Ugarte, to whom 
we had letters of introduction. 

"June gth. A large party dined at Governor Cor- 
dero's who gave as his toast, 'The President of the 
United States — Vive la.' I returned the compliment 
by toasting 'His Catholic Majesty.* These toasts were 
followed by 'General Wilkinson.* One of the com- 
pany then gave 'These gentlemen; their safe and 
happy arrival in their own country; their honorable re- 
ception, and the continuation of the good understand- 
ing which exists between the two countries.' 

"June loth. A large party at the governor's to din- 
ner. He gave as a toast, 'My companion, Herrara.* 

"June nth. Preparing to march to-morrow. We 
this evening had a conversation with the two governors, 
wherein they exhibited an astonishing knowledge of the 
political character of our Executive, and the local in- 
terests of the different parts of the Union. 

"June I2th. One of the captains from the kingdom 
of Leon having died, we were invited to attend the 
burial, and accompanied the two governors in their 
coach, where we had an opportunity of viewing the 



Through Texas to Louisiana 351 

solemnity of the interment, agreeably to the ritual of 
the Spanish church, attended by the military honors 
which were conferred on the deceased by his late breth- 
ren in arms. 

"[As I ascertained to-day,] Governor Cordero gave 
the information of my intended expedition to the com- 
mandant-general as early as July, the same month that 
I took my departure. His information was received 
via Natchez. 

"June iph. This morning there were marched 200 
dragoons for the sea-coast, to look out for the English, 
and this evening Colonel Cordero was to have marched 
to join them. We marched at seven o'clock, Governor 
Cordero taking us in his coach about two leagues, ac- 
companied by Father M'Guire, Dr. Zerbin, etc. We 
took a friendly adieu of Governor Herrara and our 
other friends at Saint Antonio. 

*' It may not be improper to mention here something 
of Father M'Guire and Dr. Zerbin, who certainly treated 
us with all imaginable attention while at Saint Antonio. 
The former was an Irish priest, who formerly resided 
on the coast above Orleans, and was noted for his hos- 
pitable and social qualities. On the cession of Louis- 
iana, he followed the standard of 'the king, his master 
who never suffers an old servant to be neglected.' He 
received at Cuba an establishment as chaplain to the 
mint of Mexico, whence the instability of human affairs 
took him to Saint Antonio. He was a man of chaste, 
classical taste, observation, and research. 

"Don Zerbin formerly resided at Natchez, but in 



352 Zebulon M. Pike 

consequence of pecuniary embarrassments emigrated to 
the Spanish territories. Being a young man of a hand- 
some person and an insinuating address, he had ob- 
tained the good-will of Governor Cordero, who had con- 
ferred on him an appointment in the king's hospital, 
and many other advantages by which he might have 
made a fortune; but he had recently committed some 
very great indiscretions, by which he had nearly lost the 
favor of Governor Cordero, though whilst we were there 
he was treated with attention. 

"I will attempt here to portray a faint resemblance of 
the characters of the two governors, whom we found at 
Saint Antonio; but to whose superexcellent qualities 
it would require a master pen to do justice. 

"Don Antonio Cordero is about 5 feet 10 inches in 
height, 50 years of age, with fair complexion and blue 
eyes; he wore his hair turned back and in every part 
of his deportment was legibly written *the soldier.* He 
yet possessed an excellent constitution, and a body 
which appeared to be neither impaired by the fatigues 
of the various campaigns he had made, nor disfigured 
by the numerous wounds received from the enemies 
of the king. He was one of the select officers who had 
been chosen by the court of Madrid to be sent to America 
about 35 years since, to discipline and organize the 
Spanish provincials, and had been employed in all 
the various provinces and kingdoms of New Spain. 
1 hrough the parts we explored he was universally be- 
loved and respected; and when I pronounce him by 
far the most popular man in the internal provinces, I 



Through Texas to Louisiana 353 

risk nothing by the assertion. He spoke the Latin and 
French languages well, was generous, brave, and sin- 
cerely attached to his king and country. Those numer- 
ous qualifications advanced him to the rank of colonel 
of cavalry, and governor of the provinces of Cogquilla 
and Texas. His usual residence was Montlovez, which 
he had embellished a great deal, but since our taking 
possession of Louisiana he had removed to Saint 
Antonio, in order to be nearer the frontier, to be able 
to apply the remedy to any evil which might arise from 
the collision of our lines. 

"Don Simon de Herrara is about 5 feet 11 inches 
high, has a sparkling black eye, dark complexion and 
hair. He was born in the Canary Islands, served in 
the infantry in France, Spain and Flanders, and speaks 
the French language well, with a little of the English. 
He is engaging in conversation with his equals; poHte 
and obliging to his inferiors, and in all his actions 
one of the most gallant and accomplished men I ever 
knew. He possesses a great knowledge of mankind, 
from his experience in various countries and societies, 
and knows how to employ the genius of each of his 
subordinates to advantage. He had been in the United 
States during the presidency of General Washington, 
and had been introduced to that hero, of whom he 
spoke in terms of exalted veneration. He is now lieu- 
tenant-colonel of infantry, and governor of the king- 
dom of New Leon. His seat of government is Mont 
Elrey; and probably, if ever a chief is adored by his 
people, it is Herrara. When his time expired last, he 



354 Zebulon M. Pike 

immediately repaired to Mexico, attended byjooofthe 
most respectable people of his government, who carried 
with them the sighs, tears, and prayers of thousands 
that he might be continued in that government. The 
viceroy thought proper to accord to their wishes pro 
tempore^ and the king has since confirmed his nomina- 
tion. When I saw him he had been about one year 
absent, during which time the citizens of rank in Mont 
EIrey had not suffered a marriage or baptism to take 
place in any of their families, until their common 
father could be there, to consent and give joy to the 
occasion by his presence. What greater proof could 
be given of their esteem and love ? 

"In drawing a parallel between these two friends, I 
should say that Cordero was the man of greatest read- 
ing, and that Herrara possessed the greatest knowledge 
of the world. Cordero has lived all his life as a bache- 
lor. Herrara married an English lady in early youth, 
at Cadiz; one who by her suavity of manners makes 
herself as much beloved and esteemed by the ladies 
as her noble husband is by the men. By her he has 
several children, one now in the service of his royal 
master. 

"The two friends agree perfectly in one point — their 
hatred to tyranny of every kind; and in a secret determi- 
nation never to see that flourishing part of the New 
World subject to any European lord except him whom 
they think their honor and loyalty bound to defend 
with their lives and fortunes. But should Bonaparte 
seize on European Spain, I risk nothing in asserting that 



Through Texas to Louisiana 355 



those two would be the first to assert the independence 
of their country. 

" Before I close this subject it may not be improper to 
relate that we owe it to Governor Herrara's prudence 
that we are not now engaging in a war with Spain. 
This will be explained by the following anecdote, which 
he related in the presence of his friend Cordero, and 
which was confirmed by him. When the difficulties 
commenced on the Sabine, the commandant-general 
and the viceroy consulted together and mutually deter- 
mined to maintain inviolate what they deemed the 
dominions of their master. The viceroy therefore or- 
dered Herrara to join Cordero with 1,300 men, and 
both the viceroy and General Salcedo ordered Cor- 
dero to cause our troops to be attacked should they 
pass the river Oude. These orders were positively re- 
iterated to Herrara, the actual commanding officer of 
the Spanish army on the frontiers, and gave rise to many 
messages which he sent to General Wilkinson when he 
was advancing with our troops. Finding they were not 
attended to, he called a council of war on the question to 
attack or not, when it was given as their opinion that 
they should immediately commence a predatory war- 
fare, but avoid a general engagement; yet, notwith- 
standing the orders of the viceroy, the commandant- 
general. Governor Cordero's, and the opinion of his 
officers, he had the firmness or temerity to enter into 
the agreement with General Wilkinson which at present 
exists relative to our boundaries on that frontier. On 
his return he was received with coolness by Cordero, 



356 Zebulon M. Pike 

and they both made their communications to their 
superiors. 'Until an answer was received,' said Her- 
rara, 'I experienced the most unhappy period of my 
life, conscious I had served my country faithfully, at the 
same time that I had violated every principle of mili- 
tary duty/ At length the answer arrived, and what 
was it, but the thanks of the viceroy and the command- 
ant-general for having pointedly disobeyed their orders, 
with assurances that they would represent his services 
in exalted terms to the king. What could have pro- 
duced this change of sentiment is to me unknown, 
but the letter was published to the army, and confi- 
dence again restored between the two chiefs and the 
troops. 

"The appearance of the Spanish troops is certainly, 
at a distance, a la militaire. Their lances are fixed to 
the side of the saddle under the left thigh and slant 
about five feet above the horse. On the right the cara- 
bine is slung in a case to the front of the saddle, or pom- 
mel, crosswise, the breech to the right hand; and on 
each side of the saddle, behind the rider, is a pistol; 
below the breech of the carabine is slung the shield, 
which is made of sole leather three doubled, sewed to- 
gether with thongs, with a band on the inside to slip the 
left arm through; those of the privates are round, and 
are about two feet in diameter. The officers and non- 
commissioned oflScers have their shields oval, bending 
on both sides, in order to permit the arrow to glance, 
and they have in general the arms of Spain with Don 
Carlos IV. gilt on the outside, with various other de- 



Through Texas to Louisiana 357 

vices, which add much to the elegance of their appear- 
ance on horseback, but are only calculated to be of 
service against savages who have no fire-arms. The 
dragoons of the viceroyalty do not make use of the 
lance or shield, but are armed, equipped, and clothed 
after the modern manner, as are also the dragoons of 
the eastern provinces. When they recently expected to 
be opposed to the American troops they were deprived 
of the lance and shield, and received the straight cut- 
lass in their stead. 

** Their dress is a short blue coat, with red cape and 
cuffs, without facings, leather or blue cotton velvet small- 
clothes and waistcoat, the small-clothes always open at 
the knees, the wrapping-boot with the jack-boot and 
permanent spur over it, a broad-brimmed, high-crowned 
wool hat, with a ribbon round it of various colors, gen- 
erally received as a present from some female, which 
they wear as a badge of the favor of the fair sex and a 
mark of their gallantry. 

"Their horses are small and slender-limbed, but 
very active and capable of enduring great fatigue. The 
equipments of the horses are, to our idea, awkward; 
but I believe them superior to the English, and they 
have the advantage over us in the skill of the rider, as 
well as in the quality of the beast. Their bridles have 
a strong curb, which gives so great a mechanical force 
to the bridle that I believe it almost practicable with it 
to break the jaw of the beast. The saddle is made after 
the Persian mode, with a high projecting pommel or, 
as anciently termed, bow, and is likewise raised behind. 



358 Zebulon M. Pike 

This is merely the tree; it is then covered by two or three 
covers of carved leather and embroidered w^orkmanship, 
some v^ith gold and silver in a very superb manner. 
The stirrups are of v^ood closed in front, carved generally 
into the figure of a lion's head, or that of some other 
beast; they are very heavy, and to us present a very 
clumsy appearance. The horseman, seated on his 
horse, has a small bag tied behind him, his blankets 
either under him^ or lying with his cloak between his 
body and the bow, which makes him at his ease. 
Thus mounted, it is impossible for the most vicious 
horse ever to dismount them. They will catch another 
horse with a noose and hair rope, when both are run- 
ning nearly at full speed, with which they soon choke 
down the beast of which they are in pursuit; in short, 
they are probably the most expert horsemen in the 
world. 

"They relieve their guards at night; as soon as they 
halt the new guard is formed on foot with their carabines, 
and then marched before the commandant's tent, where 
the commanding officer of the guard invokes the holy 
virgin three times; the commanding officer replies, *It is 
well.' They then retire and mount their horses, and are 
told off, some to act as guard of the horses, as cavalry, 
others as guard of the camp, as infantry. The old 
guards are then paraded and relieved, and the new senti- 
nels take post. Their sentinels are singing half the time, 
and it is no uncommon thing for them to quit their post 
to come to the fire, go for water, etc. — in fact, after the 
officer is in bed, frequently the whole guard comes in; 



Through Texas to Louisiana 359 



yet I never knew any man punished for these breaches 
of military duty. Their mode of attack is by squadrons, 
on the diflPerent flanks of their enemies, but without 
regularity or concert, shouting, hallooing, and firing their 
carabines; after which, if they think themselves equal 
to the enemy, they charge with a pistol and then a lance. 
From my observation on their discipHne I have no hesi- 
tation in declaring that I would not be afraid to march 
over a plain with 500 infantry and a proportionate al- 
lowance of horse artillery of the United States army, 
in the presence of 5,000 of these dragoons. Yet I do 
not presume to say that an army with that inferiority of 
numbers would do to oppose them, for they would cut 
off your suppHes, and harass your march and camp, 
night and day, to such a degree as to oblige you in the 
end to surrender to them without ever having come to 
action. If, however, the event depended on one single 
engagement, it would eventuate with glory to the Ameri- 
can arms. The conclusion must not be drawn that I 
consider they are more deficient in physical firmness 
than other nations, for we see the savages, 500 of whom 
on a plain fly before 50 bayonets, on other occasions 
brave danger and death in its most horrid shapes, with 
an undaunted fortitude never surpassed by the most 
disciphned and hardy veterans. It arises solely from 
the want of disciphne and confidence in each other, as 
is always the case with undiscipHned corps, unless stim- 
ulated by the godlike sentiment of love of country, of 
which these poor fellows know so little. The travelling 
food of the dragoons of New Mexico consists of a very 



36o Zebulon M. Pike 

excellent species of wheat biscuit, and shaved meat well 
dried, with a vast quantity of red pepper, of which they 
make bouilli and then pour it on their broken biscuit, 
when the latter becomes soft and excellent eating. 
Farther south they use large quantities of parched corn 
meal and sugar, as practised by our hunters, each 
dragoon having a small bag. In short they live when 
on command, on an allowance which our troops would 
consider little better than starving, never, except at 
night, attempting to eat anything like a meal, but biting 
at a piece of biscuit, or drinking some parched meal with 
sugar and water, during the day. 

*' Sunday, June i^th. When we left Saint Antonio, 
everything appeared to be in a flourishing and improv- 
ing state, owing to the examples given to industry, 
politeness, and civilization by the excellent Governor 
Cordero and his colleague Herrara; also to the large 
body of troops maintained at that place in consequence 
of the difference existing between the United States and 
Spain. 

"Came on to the Saint Marks in the morning; in 
the afternoon came on 115 miles further, but was late, 
owing to our having taken the wrong road. Dis- 
tance 30 miles. 

"June i6th. Marched early, and at eight o'clock ar- 
rived at Red river. Here was a small Spanish station 
and several lodges of Tancards — tall, handsome men, 
but the most naked savages I ever saw, without excep- 
tion. They complained much of their situation. In 
the afternoon passed over hilly, stony land; occasion- 



Through Texas to Louisiana 361 



ally we saw pine timber. Killed one deer. Encamped 
on a small run. Distance 26 miles. 

''June ijth. Came on by nine o'clock to a large en- 
campment of Tancards, more than 40 lodges. Their 
property was as remarkable as their independence. 
Immense herds of horses, etc. I gave a Camanche and 
Tancard each a silk handkerchief, and a recommenda- 
tion to the commandant at Natchitoches. In the after- 
noon came on three hours and encamped on a hill, at a 
creek on the right-hand side of the road. Met a large 
herd of mules escorted by four soldiers; the lieutenant 
took from them some money which they had in charge. 
Distance 30 miles." 

Of this tribe Pike subsequently writes: 

"The Tancards are a nation of Indians who rove on 
the banks of Red river, and are 600 men strong. They 
follow the buffalo and wild horses, and carry on a trade 
with the Spaniards. They are armed with the bow, ar- 
row, and lance. They are erratic and confined to no 
particular district; are a tall, handsome people; in con- 
versation they have a peculiar clucking, express more 
by signs than any savages I ever visited, and in fact 
language appears to have made less progress. They 
complained much of their situation and the treatment 
of the Spaniards; are extremely poor, and, except the 
Apaches, were the most independent Indians we en- 
countered in the Spanish territories. They possess 
large droves of horses." 

Concerning these wild horses, which it will be remem- 
bered were the causes of the unhappy fate of Captain 



362 Zebulon M. Pike 



Philip Nolan and his men, Pike informs his govern- 
ment: "They are in such numbers as to afford supplies 
for all the savages who border on the province, the Span- 
iards, and vast droves for the other provinces. They 
are also sent into the United States, notwithstanding 
the trade is contraband. They go in such large gangs 
that it is requisite to keep an advanced guard of horse- 
men in order to frighten them away; for should they be 
suffered to come near the horses and mules which you 
drive with you, by their snorting, neighing, etc., they 
would alarm them, and frequently the domestic animals 
would join them and go off, notwithstanding all the ex- 
ertions of the dragoons to prevent them. A gentleman 
told me he saw 700 beasts carried off at one time, not 
one of which was ever recovered. They also in the 
night frequently carry off the droves of travelers' horses, 
and even come within a few miles of St. Antonio, and 
take off the horses in that vicinity. 

"The method pursued by the Spanish in taking them 
is as follows: They take a few fleet horses and proceed 
into the country where the wild horses are numerous. 
They then build a large stone inclosure, with a door 
which enters a smaller inclosure; from the entrance of 
the large pen they project wings out into the prairie a 
great distance, and then set up bushes, etc., to induce 
the horses, when pursued, to enter into these wings. 
After these preparations are made they keep a look- 
out for a small drove, for, if they unfortunately should 
start too large a one, they either burst open the pen or 
fill it up with dead bodies, and the others run over them 



Through Texas to Louisiana 363 

and escape; in which case the party are obhged to leave 
the place, as the stench arising from the putrid carcasses 
would be insupportable; and, in addition to this, the 
pen would not receive others. Should they, however, 
succeed in driving in a few, say two or three hundred, 
they select the handsomest and youngest, noose them, 
take them into the small inclosure, and then turn out the 
remainder; after which, by starving, preventing them 
taking any repose, and continually keeping them in 
motion, they make them gentle by degrees, and finally 
break them to submit to the saddle and bridle. For 
this business I presume there is no nation in the world 
superior to the Spaniards of Texas. 

'* June iSth. Rode on until half past ten o'clock, 
when we arrived at the river Brasses. Here is a stock- 
ade guard of one corporal, six men and a ferry boat. 
Swam our horses over; one was drowned, and several 
others were near it, owing to their striking each other 
with their feet. We then came on about two miles on 
this side of a bayou called the little Brasses, which is 
only a branch of the other, and which makes an im- 
passable swamp at certain seasons between them. Dis- 
tance 13 miles. 

"June igth. Came on through woods and prairies 
alternating 20 miles to a small creek, Corpus Christi, 
with well-wooded, rich land. In the afternoon passed 
a creek which at high water is nearly impassable four 
miles. Overflows, swamps, ponds, etc. Encamped 
about one mile on this side, on high land to the right 
of the road. Met the mail, Indians and others. Dis- 
tance 30 miles. 



364 Zebulon M. Pike 

'^ Sunday, June 2\st. Came on to the river Trinity 
by eight o'clock. Here were stationed two captains, 
two lieutenants, and three ensigns, with nearly 100 men, 
all sick, one scarcely able to assist another. Met a 
number of runaway negroes, some French, and Irish- 
men. Received information of Lieutenant Wilkinson's 
safe arrival. Crossed with all our horses and baggage, 
with much difficulty. Distance 20 miles. 

*' June 24/A. The horses came up this morning; 
lost six over night. We marched early and in 15 miles 
came up to the river Angeline, about the width of the 
Natchez, running N. and S., good land on its borders. 
Two miles further was a settlement of Barr and Daven- 
ports, where were three of our lost horses; one mile 
further found two more of our horses, where we halted 
for dinner. Marched at four o'clock, and at half past 
eight arrived at Nacogdoches, where we were politely 
received by the adjutant and inspector. Captain Her- 
rara, Mr. Davenport, etc. This part of the country is 
well watered, but sandy; pine, scrub oak, etc. Dis- 
tance 27 miles." 

^^ June 2^th. Spent in reading a gazette from the 
United States, etc. A large party at the adjutant and 
inspector's to dinner: ist toast, * The President of the 
United States, etc/; 2d, 'The King of Spain' ; 3d, 
'Governors Herrara and Cordero/ 

"June 2'jth. Marched after dinner and came only 
12 miles. Was escorted by Lieutenant Guodiana and 
a military party, Mr, Davenport's brother-in-law, who 
was taking in some money, also accompanied us, 

"Don Francis Viana, adjutant and inspector of the 



Through Texas to Louisiana 365 

Internal provinces, who commanded at Nacogdoches, 
is an old and veteran officer, and w^as one of those w^ho 
came to America at the same time with Colonel Cordero. 
Possessing a mind of frankness, he unfortunately spoke 
his opinions too freely in some instances, which, finding 
their way to court, prevented his promotion. But he is 
highly respected by his superiors, and looked up to as 
a model of military conduct by his inferiors. He un- 
fortunately does not possess flexibility sufficient to be 
useful in the present state of the Spanish kingdoms. He 
is the officer who caused Major Sparks and Mr. Free- 
man to return from their expedition on the Red river. 

"Sunday^ June 2Sth. Marched early and at nine 

o'clock crossed the little river called , whence we 

pushed on in order to arrive at the house of a French- 
man, [about nine] miles distant from the Sabine. We 
stopped at a house on the road, where the heutenant 
informed me an American by the name of Johnson 
lived; but was surprised to find he had crossed the 
line with his family, and a French family in his place. 
When we began conversing with them they were much 
alarmed, thinking we had come to examine them, and 
expressed great attachment to the Spanish government. 
They were somewhat astonished to find I was an Ameri- 
can officer; and on my companions stepping out, ex- 
pressed themselves in strong terms of hatred to the 
Spanish nation. I excused them for their weakness, and 
gave them a caution. Fine land, well watered and tim- 
bered; hickory, oak, sugar-tree, etc. Distance 40 miles. 

^" June zgth. Our baggage and horses came up about 



366 Zebulon M. Pike 

ten o'clock, when we dispatched them on. Marched 
ourselves at two o'clock, and arrived at the river Sabine 
by five. Here we saw the cantonment of the Spanish 
troops, when they were commanded by Colonel Her- 
rara, in the late affair between the two governments. 
Crossed the Sabine river and came about one league on 
this side, to a Httle prairie, where we encamped. Dis- 
tance 15 miles. 

In crossing the Sabine River Pike and his party are 
once more in the new American possessions known as 
the Louisiana Purchase, the Sabine River being, then 
as now, the boundary line between Louisiana and Texas. 
He has been following the old Spanish trail, camping 
near Crockett, Angeline, San Augustine, and is now 
near Many, where he fixes the site of the "marquee" of 
General Wilkinson. Here he bids adieu to his Spanish 
escort. This was commanded by Lieutenant J. Echarria 
to whom he had been transferred at San Antonio by his 
good friend. Lieutenant Malgares. 

"Parted with Lieutenant Guodiana and our Spanish 
escort. Here I think proper to bear testimony to the 
politeness, civility, and attention of all the officers who 
at different periods and in different provinces com- 
manded my escort, but in a particular manner to Mal- 
gares and Barelo, who appeared studious to please and 
accommodate, all that lay in their power; also, the ob- 
liging, mild dispositions evinced in all instances by the 
rank and file. On the other side of the Sabine I went 
up to a house, where I found 10 or 15 Americans hover- 
ing near the line, in order to embrace an opportunity of 



Through Texas to Louisiana 367 

carrying on some illicit commerce with the Spaniards, 
who on their side were equally eager. Here we found 
Tharp and Sea, who had been old sergeants in General 
Wayne's army. 

''June. 30//7. Marched early and came to a house 
at a small creek, where lived a Dutch family named 
Faulk, and where we left a small roan horse which had 
given out. Marched 12 miles further to a large bayou, 
where had been an encampment of our troops, which I 
recognized by its form, and took pleasure in imagining 
the position of the general's marquee and the tents of my 
different friends and acquaintances. Distance 28 miles. 

"July 1st. Finding that a horse of Dr. Robinson's, 
which had come all the way from Chihuahua, could not 
proceed, was obliged to leave him here. Yesterday and 
to-day passed many Choctaws, whose clothing, furni- 
ture, etc., evidently marked the superiority of situation 
of those who bordered on our frontiers, to that of the 
naked, half-starved wretches whom we found hang- 
ing round the Spanish settlements. Passed a string of 
huts, supposed to have been built by our troops, and 
at a small run a fortified camp but half a mile from the 
hill where anciently stood the village Adyes. We pro- 
ceeded to a spring where we halted for our loads. 
Finding the horses much fatigued, and not able to pro- 
ceed, we left them and baggage and proceeded. We 
arrived at Natchitoches about 4 p. m. 

"Language cannot express the gayety of my heart 
when I once more beheld the standard of my country 
waved aloft. 'All hail' cried I, 'the ever sacred name 



368 Zebulon M. Pike 

of country, in which is embraced that of kindred, 
friends, and every other tie which is dear to the soul 
of man!' Was affectionately received by Colonel Free- 
man, Captains Strong and Woolstoncraft, Lieutenant 
Smith, and all the officers of the post.*' 

When Pike reached Natchitoches he found there a 
letter from General Wilkinson, who had believed him 
dead, until informed otherwise by General Salcedo. 
The general, in expressing his gratification and his 
regret that Pike should have missed the source of the 
Red River, which was part of his errand, writes: 
"Yet I promise myself that the route over which you 
have passed will afford some interesting scenes as well 
to the statesman as the philosopher." This letter con- 
cludes with the gratifying statement that "The President 
mentioned you and your explorations to the source of 
the great river, in his address to Congress in handsome 
terms." 

To this letter Pike returned an answer relating his 
Spanish experiences, and it is in keeping with that con- 
sideration that he showed for all his companions that 
he urges the claims of the faithful Baroney still with 
Sergeant Meek, and the fidelity of his men. To Dr. 
Robinson he pays the following tribute: 

"Dr. Robinson has accompanied me the whole route, 
is still with me, and I take pleasure in acknowledging 
I have received important services from him, as my 
companion in dangers and hardships, counselor in dif- 
ficulties, and one to whose chemical, botanical, and 




MONUMENT OVER THE GRAVE OF GENERAL PIKE AT 
SACKETT'S HARBOR, X. Y. 



Through Texas to Louisiana 369 

mineralogical knowledge the expedition is greatly in- 
debted — in short, Sir, he is a young gentleman of tal- 
ents, honor, and perseverance, possessing, in my hum- 
ble opinion, a military turn of mind, and would enter, I 
believe, in case of an augmentation of the army, if he 
could obtain a rank above a subaltern." 

The letter concludes: 

*' I have been obliged to draw money of the Spanish 
government, which I have to pay to their ambassador 
at Washington. I supported those of my men who were 
with me all the time in the Spanish country. Being sep- 
arated from my baggage and never permitted to have 
it join me, and having been presented to the command- 
ant-general in a blanket cappot, I was under the neces- 
sity of going to very considerable expense to support 
what I considered not only my honor, but the dignity 
of our army. This, when a captain's pay is 1^2,400 per 
annum, was a ruinous thing to my finances; but I hope 
it may be taken into due consideration. 

"After making myself pretty perfect in the French 
language, I have obtained such a knowledge of the 
Spanish as to make me confident in asserting, in three 
or four years I will with ease make myself sufficiently 
master of the latter, Italian, and Portuguese, to read 
them all, and speak and write Spanish. The doctor 
has even exceeded me in that point. I mention this to 
the general, as I know the interest he takes in the im- 
provement of his military protege." 

It is apparent that in Pike's intimacy with the Spanish 
officers the possible capture of the throne of Spain by 



3/0 Zebulon M. Pike 

Napoleon was a frequent topic of conversation. In this 
case Spain would look to the United States, and the 
independence of Mexico would follow. In such a pro- 
spective campaign his experiences in that country would 
fit him for a leading part. This he outlines in a sub- 
sequent report to the Government: 

"Twenty thousand auxiliaries from the United States 
under good officers, joined to the independents of the 
country, are at any time sufficient to create and effect 
the revolution. These troops can be raised and offi- 
cered in the United States, but paid and supphed at the 
expense of Mexico. It would be requisite that not only 
the general commanding, but that every officer, down to 
the youngest ensign, should be impressed with the neces- 
sity of supporting a strict discipline, to prevent maraud- 
ing, which should in some instances be punished with 
death, in order to convince the citizens that we come 
as their friends and protectors, not as their plunderers 
and tyrants. Also, the most sacred regard should be 
paid not to injure the institutions of their religion; there- 
by showing them we have a proper respect for all things 
in any way connected with the worship of the Deity, at 
the same time that we permit every man to adore him 
agreeably to the dictates of his own judgment. 

"The details requisite for the equipment, organiza- 
tion, etc., of the corps, so as to adapt it to the locality 
of the country and the nature of the service, could be 
easily formed, but would be impertinent here. 

"Should an army of Americans ever march into the 
country, and be guided and governed by these maxims. 



Through Texas to Louisiana 371 

they will only have to march from province to province 
in triumph, and be hailed by the united voices of grate- 
ful millions as their deliverers and saviors, whilst our 
national character resounds to the most distant nations 
of the earth." 

Pike's last act at Natchitoches was to keep faith with 
the unfortunate men of Captain Nolan's party held 
prisoners by the Spaniards. This he does in a long let- 
ter relating the circumstances of their capture and pre- 
sent condition addressed to the "Editors of Gazettes in 
the States," that their friends might "receive the melan- 
choly assurance of their existence," and the Govern- 
ment interfere in their behalf. This work of benevo- 
lence accomplished. Pike left to join his family, and 
again to take up his career as soldier. The visions of 
future usefulness and military distinction that Pike 
outlined in his letter to General Wilkinson he could 
not foresee were not to be realized against the French 
or Spaniards on the banks of the Rio Grande, but 
against the English on the waters of our Northern 
boundary in the war of 1812. The capture of Fort 
York, on Lake Ontario, the present site of Toronto, 
and the dramatic incidents of his death, rounded out 
his brief life of thirty-six years. The lives of few great 
Americans present an equal record of patriotic devo- 
tion, uprightness of character, personal sacrifice, and 
ability in deahng with varied and difficult tasks. 



INDEX 



Adams, Fort, 137. 

Adams, Lieut., 339, 340. 

Adyes, village, 367. 

Aird, James, 16. 

AUencaster, Governor, 255, 272, 278, 

291. 
Almansa d', Captain, 275, 278, 281, 

294, 296. 
Anderson, George, 79, brother of, 

112. 
Apache Indians, 296-303, 305; 

prisoners, 336. 
Arkansas BLiver, 208, 211, 236. 

Ballinger, Sergeant, 140. 

Barelo, Captain, 331, 332. i^^S, 366. 

"Baroney," Vasquez, 138, 144, 183, 

192, 213, 228, 238, 368. 
Barr and Davenports, settlement of, 

366. 
Bashier, Major, 345. 
Beau, Chippewa, 82, 88, 96. 
Bellefontaine, 130, 134. 
Belle Oiseau, Pawnee chief, 155; 

son of, 170, 181, 182, 195. 
Big Soldier, 145. 
Blondeau, M., 16, 17, 127. 
Boley, John, private, 6, 69, 70, 89. 
"Bostonian, The," 100. 
Bradley, Henry, Corporal, 5, 13, 43, 

54, 60, 66, 89, 107. 
Branden, Peter, private, 6. 
Brasses River. 5ee Brazos. 
Brazos River, 336, 363. 
"Brelaw," badger, 40. 
Brown, Clarissa. See Mrs. Pike 
Brown, John, private, 6, 216, 244. 
Brusky, Charles, 67. 
Buck, Chippewa, 79, 88, 96. 
Burling, Mr. 328. 
Burlington, Iowa, 12. 
Burnt, Chippewa, 79. 
Burr, Aaron, 279, 307, 313. 



Caberairt, Don Antonio, 314; 

Senora Maria Con., 313. 
Cahatonga. See Cheveux B lanes. 
Calumet dance, 100. 
Cameron, Murdock, 28, 29, 32, 112. 
Carter, Jacob, private, 6, 262. 
Carver, explorer, in. 
Cass Lake, 75. 
Characterish, Pawnee chief, 177, 183, 

189, 193. 
Chartron, Dr., 141. 
Cheveux Blancs 148, 158-160. 
Chewockomen, 71. 
Cheyenne peak, 219. 
Chien Blanche, his family, 58, 99. 
Chihuahua, city of, 308, 318, 319. 
Chippewa tribe, 27; origin of, 40; 

fight, 41; encampment, 62; canoes, 

63; lodges, 71; council, 81, 83, 

130. 
Chouteau, C. M., 151, 167. 
Ciudad Porfirio Diaz, 342. 
Claiborne's, Governor, gun, 314. 
Clark, 18, 191. 
Clear Water, 41. 
Cogquilla, 330. 
Colly, Solomon, 273, 278. 
Comanche. See Tetans. 
Cordero, Don Antonio, Governor, 

312, 349, 353, 369. 
Croix, M. de, 335. 
Crow Wing River, 61. 
Curly Head, Chippewa warrior, 64. 

Dearborn, General Henry, viii, x. 
De Breche, Chippewa chief, 90, 

102, 103. 
Des Moines River, 9, 10. 
Dickson. Robert, trader, 54, 56, 92, 

94, 106, III. 
Door of the Prison River, 2^^. 
Dougherty, Thomas, private, 6, 242, 

255- 



373 



374 



Index 



Dubuque, 13, 125. 
Dunbar, Mr. 229, 278. 

Eagle Pass, 342. 
Echarria, Lieul. J., 366. 
Eddy, Corporal, 127. 
"Eden," 8. 

El Paso, 304, 305, 340. 
Encina, Hacienda of, 341. 
Ewing, William, agent, 14. 

Falls of St. Anthony, ^^-y treaty, 

38, 109. 
Fandango, 293. 
Faulk, Dutch family, 367. 
Ferara, Captain de, 339. 
Feribault, Mr., 30. 
Fernandez, Don Bartholemew, 259, 

273, 278, 280, 281. 
Fero, David, 314-316. 
Fisher, trader, 18, 35, 146. 
Flat Mouth, Chippewa chief, 81, 86. 
Florida, village of, 339. 
Fols Avoins, 55, 108. 
Fort, building, 249; Crow River, 42; 

Elisiraira, 305; Madison; Snel- 

ling, 30; St. Nicolas, 18; York, 

Capture of, 371. 
"Four Brothers," 6. 
Fo.x tribe, 14; war party, 25; legend, 

96, 119, 126, 139. 
Frank, Pawnee, 185, 187. 
Frazer, Mr. 18, 20-24, 27,32, 39, in. 
Freeman, Colonel, 368. 
Fremont, General, 219. 
Frenchman's dinner, 347. 
Fresaie, Chippewa chief, 92. 

Galena River, 15. 

Games, ball, 120, 187. 

Garcia, Don Francisco, 303. 

Gasconade River, 142, 143. 

Gens des Feuilles, Sioux tribe, 55, 

57, no- 
Gens du Lac, no. 
Gorden, William, private, 6, 262. 
"Grand Encampment," 26. 
Grant, Mr., trader, 64-69, 88; 

visit of, 101. 
Grant's prairie, 14. 
Greignor, Frenchman, 94, 96. 
GrifTith, deserter, 341. 



Guerra, Father Ambrosio, 284. 
Guloo, Don Hymen, 332, 338, 340. 
Guodiana, Lieutenant, 364, 366. 

Hacienda of Pattos, 338. 

Hannibal, Missouri, 8. 

Harrison, John Cleve Symmes, vi. 

Harvard, Mount, 223. 

Henderson, Martin, story of, 343- 

346. 
Henry, George, 139, 148. 
Herrara, Governor, 349, 353, 355. 
Huddleston, Solomon, private, 6, 149. 
Huerfano River, 216. 
Hughes, Lieut., 129. 
Hurricane Island, 8. 

Iskatappe. See Characterish. 

Jackson, Corporal, 262. 
Jarreau, of Cahokia, 117. 
Jefferson, President, message to 
Congress, 368. 

Kansas tribe, 151, 172; Council, 
184, 190. 

Karamone, Puant chief, 123. 

Kennerman, Henry, 5, 43; instruc- 
tions to, 44; reduced, 94; de.ser- 
tion of, 138. 

Keokuk, citv of, 10. 

Killeur Rouge, Siou.x, 55, 92. 

Lab.\rdie, 163. 

La Charette, village, 139, 141. 

La Crosse, 24, 26, 116. 

La Feuille, Sioux chief, 20-24, 25; 

jealousy of, 121. 
La Jeunesse, trader, letter to, 106. 
Lake Pepin, 28, 116. 
Lake Winnebigoshi, 75. 
Lalande, Baptiste, 252, 267, 270. 
Lang Sue, Lake. See Leech Lake. 
Larme, Baptiste, 159. 
Le Becasse, Sioux chief, 23, 34- 
Le Boeuf qui Marche, Sioux chief, 

33, 34- 

Le Claire, 15. 

Le Demi Douzen, Sioux chief, 33, 34. 

Lee Panes. See Lipans. 

Leech Lake, 59, 68. 

Le Fjls de Pinchot, Sioux chief, 33, 

34. no. 



Index 



375 



Le Grand Partisan, Sioux chief, 3s, 

34- 
Lewis and Clark, 18, 191. 
Lewis, Capt., 131. 
Lipans, Indian tribe, 348. 
Little Crow. See Petit Corbeau. 
Little Elk Rapid, 59. 
Little Thunder, Winnebago, 123. 
Little Village, 161. 
Liza, Manuel de, 139, 155, 159. 
Lockwood, Captain, 340. 
L'Original Leve, war chief, ;i2, 34. 
L'Rone, guide, 88, 89. 

Magdalen, mountains of, 296. 
Malgares, Lieutenant, 179, 290, 292- 

294, 296, 298, 306, 329-331, 366. 
Many, Captain, 126, 129. 
Marion City, 8. 
Martin Chuzzlewit, 8. 
Maugraine, 163. 
Maupemie, village of, 333. 
Mayner, Lieut. Col., 312. 323. 
Medano Pass, 247. 
Medicine dance, 163. 
Meek, William E., Corporal, 6, 52, 

91, 256, 312. 
Melcher, Don, 340, 342. 
Menaugh, Hugh, private, 6, 246, 256, 

262. 
Menominee. See Fols Avoins. 
Merior, Major, 178. 
M'Gillis, Hugh, trader, 74; letter 

to 76; letter from, 77; hospitality, 

S8. 
M'Guire, Father, 351. 
Michilimackinac, 94, 96. 
Miller, Theodore, private, 6; hun- 
ter, 48, 71, 216, 224, 228, 233, 256, 

262. 
Miquel, Marquis de San, 335, 337, 

338, 339- 
Montelovez, 339. 
Morrison, James, 139; Wm., 252, 

268. 
Mountain of the Dead, 303. 
Mountjoy, John, private, 6, 228, 

262. 



Nacogdoches, 364. 
Natchitoches, 367. 



Nolan, Capt. Phillip, 273, 314-316, 

371- 
North Western Company, 65, 67, 
68, 70, 76. 

Osage tribe, 164-166; prisoners, 

129, 138, 143; river, 144. 
Outard Blanche, chief, 35. 
O wings, David, private, 6, 53. 

Painted Rock, 116. 

Pakagama Falls, 71. 

Passo del Norte. See El Paso. 

Paulier, Mr., 106. 

Pawnee tribe, captives, 138 ; Repub- 
lic, 171; village, 176; Council, 184, 
191; hunt, 194, 213. 

Petit Corbeau, Sioux chief, 32, 23, 35, 
III. 

Pigeon Roosts, 128. 

Pike's Peak, 210, 211, 218, 219, 221, 

239- 

Pike. Z. M., birth, v; cadet, vi; mar- 
riage, vi; at St. Louis, vii; in Wash- 
ington, viii; at Fort McHenry, ix; 
disciplinarian, ix; Brigadier Gen- 
eral, ix; letter to his father, x; 
death, xi; route, 10, 29, 68, 80, 
90, 116, 148, 171, 180, 196, 211, 
216, 222, 231, 238, 247, 251, 304, 
342, 366. 

Pike, Mrs., vi, 125, 127. 

Pike's island. Pike's tent, xii. 

Pine Camp, 92. 

Pine Creek Rapids, 44. 

Portage de Sioux, 8, 129. 

Potowatomies, 138. 

Prado, Father Joseph, 304. 

Prairie du Chien, 4, 7, 18, 116, 146. 

Pratt, deserter, 340. 

Puants, 15, 119; council, 121, 123. 

Pueblo, 217. 

Ranche de St. Antonio, 336. 

Raven, Fox chief, 15. 

Recovery, defeat at, 207. 

Red Cedar Lake, 64, 66; march to, 

80. 
Red River, search for, 225, 227, 239. 
Red Thunder, Yanctongs chief, 121. 
Red Wing, Sioux chief, 29. 



376 



Index 



Reinville, Joseph, 19, 39. 

Rey, Don Pedro Roderique, 304. 

Reynards. See Fox. 

Reynol, Abbe, 157. 

Rio del Norte. See Rio Grande. 

Rio Grande, 247, 260, 263 282, 297. 

Rivers and Creelis, Angeline, 365; 
Arkansas, 137, 169, 196, 199, 200, 
208, 211, 224; Brazos, 336, 363; 
Buffalo, 6; Clear Water, 41, 49; 
Conchos, 318, 330; Cottonwood, 
172; Des Moines, 10; Florida, 
331; Fountain, 217; Galena, 15; 
Gasconade, 142, 143; Grand, 
150; Grand Rapids, 106; Grape 
Creek, 239, 263; Huerfano, 216, 
247; Illinois, 6; Kansas, 196; 
La Platte, 222, 236; Little Osage, 
169; Mariano, 349; Mine, 153; 
Nueces, 349; Neosho, 150; Osage, 
144, 150; Ouisconsing. See Wis- 
consin; Pawnee, 200; Pine 
Creek, 62; Pine Rapids, 44, 92; 
Republican, 180; fork of, 175; 
Red, 225, 246, 260, 276, 361; 
Rio Grande, 249, 251, 260, 271, 
282, 286, 287, 296, 371; Rio 
Conejos, 266; Rock, 14; Sabine, 
365; Solomon, 176; Smoky Hill, 
172; St. Croix, 29; St. Charles, 
216; St. Peters, 30; Ten Mile 
Creek, 224; Turkey Creek, 219; 
Vermillion, 150; Verdigris, 171; 
Wisconsin, 4; Walnut Creek, 197; 
Yellowstone, 236. 

Robinson, Dr. John H., 138, 144, 
163, 197, 200, 228, 229; leaves 
249, 287; his story, 288-291, 310, 
367; tribute to, 370. 

Rock River, 14. 

Rollett, Mr. trader, 115. 

Roman Nose, 114. 

Rosseau, Pierre, 19. 

Roussand, Mr., 79. 

Roy, Alexander, private, 6, 96, 262 

Royal Gorge, 222, 238. 

Rubi, Father, 283. 

Rudsell, John, 28. 

Sabine River, 365. 

Sable, Lake de, 66, 87. 

Sacs, 10; war part^, 25, 128, 139. 



Salcedo, General, 308-310, 313; let- 
ter to, 315; remonstrance, 326, 343. 

Saltelo Don Ignatio, 259. 

San Antonio, 349. 

San Luis Valley, 247. 

Sand Hill Pass. See Medano. 

Sandy Lake. See de Sable. 

Sangre de Cristo Range, 211, 239, 
242. 

Sans Oreille, Osage, 144, 145, 149, 
152, 168. 

Santa Fe, 271. 

Saramende, Don Pedro Rues, 307. 

Sauteurs. See Chippewa. 

Shawonoe, Fols Avoin chief, 99. 

Sioux, 7, 15, 20; dance, 22; legend, 
28; village, 29; burial, 31; 
camps, 32; council, T,y, band 37; 
sentinel, 91, no, 119, 130. 

Smith, Lieut., 368. 

Smith, Patrick, private, 6, 238. 

Soulard, Anthony, 8. 

Spanish customs, 319-323. 

Spanish officers, intimacy with, 370. 

Spanish spies, 253, 261, 263. 

Spanish troops, 356-350. 

Sparks, hunter, 9, 92, 196, 197, 222, 
242, 255. _ 

Sparks, Major, 178. 

St. Domingo, village of, 281. 

St. John, village, 266; priest, 269. 

St. Lorenzo, priest of, 337. 

St. Phillips, village of, 282. 

Stoute, Freegift, private, 6, 233, 262. 

Strong, Captain, 368. 

Sussitongs, war dance of, 58, no. 

Sweet, Chippewa, 79; pipe stem of, 
80. 

Tancards, lodges of, 360-361. 

Terre, Chief de la, 86. 

Tetans, tribe, 135, 137, 176, 219, 

222. 
Thomas, Fols Avoin chief, 93. 
Thompson, David, explorer, 80. 
Tonnerre Rouge. See Red Thunder. 
Toronto, 371. 
Tousac, village of, 292. 
Trainer. See Henderson. 
Turkey River, 16; Island, 131; 

Creek, 239. 
Tuttasuggy, 145, 162. 



Index 



Zll 



Ugarte, Captain, 350. 

Valesco, Francis, 311. 

Vallois. Senora Marguerite, 312, 

323- 
Viana, Captain, 178; Don Francis, 

364. 

Villamil, Captain, 311, 314, 323. 

Wabashaw, Sioux chief, 116, 120. 
Walker, Don Pedro, 311. 
Walker. Lieut., 309, 314, 327-329. 
Whelpley, David, private, 6. 
Whiting, General, ix, xii. 
Wild Horses, 206, 361-363. 



Wilkinson, General James, order, 
2-5, 83, 117, 131, 134, 155, 156, 
366, 368, 369-371. 

Wilkinson, Lieut. James B., 138, 
142-147, 174, 177, 199, 203, 305, 

Wind, alias Little Chief, 160. 

Wind that Walks, Sioux, 114. 

Winnebago See Puants. 

Wishtonwish, 201-203. 

Wood, trader, in. 

Woolstoncraft, Captain, 368. 

Yanctongs, war dance, 58, no. 

Zerbin, Dr., 351. 

Zuloaga, Don Manuel, 311, 314, 324. 



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